You can most certainly get a "respectable" homeowner/hobbiest level router
for $100 or less. I recall a comparison test in one of the woodworking
magazines of that class of router and the Black and Decker and Skil plunge
routers did quite well. I think the Skill even has a 1/2" collet.
On the other hand, if by "respectable" you mean something with any snob
appeal, forget it.
--
- GRL
"It's good to want things."
Steve Barr (philosopher, poet, humorist, chemist,
Visual Basic programmer)
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 24 Feb 2004 21:44:15 GMT, [email protected] (Ah10201) wrote:
>
> >hi everyone...
> >
> >I've just started playing with wood and was wondering if I should buy a
plunge
> >or a fixed base router.
>
> Both. In fact, there are some really nice packages by Bosch, Porter
> Cable, and DeWalt that include both bases. You really can't go wrong
> with any of the three, but you can drive yourself nuts trying to
> figure out which one is best at the beginning. They're ALL good, they
> all have minor idiosyncrasies, and you'll get excellent results from
> any of them.
>
> Plunge bases have a higher center of gravity and are not as easy to
> fine tune for depth as fixed bases. Fixed bases don't plunge. <G>
> The fixed base can be mounted in a shop made router table and allow
> your to quickly change the motor from table to handheld use.
> Whenever possible, I prefer the fixed base for handheld work, as I
> think it handles much nicer.
>
> Tables are simple to make and can be as plain or as elaborate as you
> choose. Once you have a router, even the most rudimentary table
> clamped to the bench will make the tool even more versatile. My first
> table, which is still my "portable", was simply a sink cutout. It
> still does the job and was FREE!
>
> > Also, can I get a respectable router under
> >$100?
>
> Probably not, unless it's used or refurbished.
>
> Barry
When you need the plunge router, you really need it. If the router is going
in a table, I'd get a fixed base, otherwise I'd get a plunge router, The DW
621 also has dust/chip collection which is a major feature as far as I'm
concerned. The 690 is not a soft start and the 621 is. I have both routers.
I seldom use the 690 and when I do, it's in a table. I absolutely never use
the plunge base on the 690.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > I've just started playing with wood and was wondering if I should buy a
> plunge
> > or a fixed base router. I heard everything you can do with one, you can
do
> with
> > the other but wasnt sure. any help? Also, can I get a respectable router
> under
> > $100?
>
> I have a lot of hours with routers and have never needed a plunge base.
You
> might be doing different work than me.
>
> A router under $100 will be a real compromise on quality and power. So,
it
> depends on what you will be using it for and how much you will be using
it.
> For an occasional roundover, anything will be just fine. For big dados or
> raised panel doors you need something rather beefier.
>
>
On 24 Feb 2004 21:44:15 GMT, [email protected] (Ah10201) wrote:
>hi everyone...
>
>I've just started playing with wood and was wondering if I should buy a plunge
>or a fixed base router. I heard everything you can do with one, you can do with
>the other but wasnt sure. any help? Also, can I get a respectable router under
>$100?
If you're anywhere close to Houston I have a Porter Cable 690 mounted
on a table for $125.00. You can add a plunge base later if you feel
you need it.
Check out one of the combo kits. I have the Bosch combo and am very happy
with it. If I was only going to buy one, I'd buy a fixed base. I use the
fixed base 95% of the time.
Check out Pat Warner's website for good router info. I think he has some
reviews there too.
http://www.patwarner.com/
"Ah10201" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> hi everyone...
>
> I've just started playing with wood and was wondering if I should buy a
plunge
> or a fixed base router. I heard everything you can do with one, you can do
with
> the other but wasnt sure. any help? Also, can I get a respectable router
under
> $100?
In article <[email protected]>,
GRL <[email protected]> wrote:
>You can most certainly get a "respectable" homeowner/hobbiest level router
>for $100 or less. I recall a comparison test in one of the woodworking
>magazines of that class of router and the Black and Decker and Skil plunge
>routers did quite well. I think the Skill even has a 1/2" collet.
The Skill 18xx series -- relatively new on the market -- comes with
both 1/4" and 1/2" collets.
The 1825 package (has both the fixed and plunge bases) is under $100, at Lowes.
lots of features -- variable speed, soft-start. "automatic" illumination
of the cutter area, too. (neat 'gimmick' -- photocell on the right-side
handle; when you cover the cell w/ your hand, the white LED illuminating
the cutter area go on. Of course, if you leave the router plugged in, and
turn the shop lights off.... :)
It claims 2-1/4HP; the 'plate' is 11A,
so it _might_ generate an honest 1-1/2 hp.
>On the other hand, if by "respectable" you mean something with any snob
>appeal, forget it.
>
>
> I've just started playing with wood and was wondering if I should buy a
plunge
> or a fixed base router. I heard everything you can do with one, you can do
with
> the other but wasnt sure. any help? Also, can I get a respectable router
under
> $100?
I have a lot of hours with routers and have never needed a plunge base. You
might be doing different work than me.
A router under $100 will be a real compromise on quality and power. So, it
depends on what you will be using it for and how much you will be using it.
For an occasional roundover, anything will be just fine. For big dados or
raised panel doors you need something rather beefier.
On 24 Feb 2004 21:44:15 GMT, [email protected] (Ah10201) wrote:
>hi everyone...
>
>I've just started playing with wood and was wondering if I should buy a plunge
>or a fixed base router.
Both. In fact, there are some really nice packages by Bosch, Porter
Cable, and DeWalt that include both bases. You really can't go wrong
with any of the three, but you can drive yourself nuts trying to
figure out which one is best at the beginning. They're ALL good, they
all have minor idiosyncrasies, and you'll get excellent results from
any of them.
Plunge bases have a higher center of gravity and are not as easy to
fine tune for depth as fixed bases. Fixed bases don't plunge. <G>
The fixed base can be mounted in a shop made router table and allow
your to quickly change the motor from table to handheld use.
Whenever possible, I prefer the fixed base for handheld work, as I
think it handles much nicer.
Tables are simple to make and can be as plain or as elaborate as you
choose. Once you have a router, even the most rudimentary table
clamped to the bench will make the tool even more versatile. My first
table, which is still my "portable", was simply a sink cutout. It
still does the job and was FREE!
> Also, can I get a respectable router under
>$100?
Probably not, unless it's used or refurbished.
Barry
On 24 Feb 2004 21:44:15 GMT, [email protected] (Ah10201) wrote:
>hi everyone...
>
>I've just started playing with wood and was wondering if I should buy a plunge
>or a fixed base router. I heard everything you can do with one, you can do with
>the other but wasnt sure. any help? Also, can I get a respectable router under
>$100?
I have an article on your first/next router on my website. You may
find it useful as it answers all of your questions except the last
one, which is "no."
However, you can get close. A Porter-Cable 690 router, which is more
than enough router for maybe 85% of your needs, should be able to be
acquired for a little more than $100, depending on how you shop and
new or refurb.
Avoid like the plague any router with the word "craftsman" anywhere on
it.
- -
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net