On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 04:17:11 -0700,
[email protected] wrote:
>I'm building blast gates.
>
>I need to cut some clean 6-1/4" (or thereabouts) holes. Ideally, I'd
>cut through the 3/4" + 1/4" + 3/4" at the same time to get a perfect
>fit.
>
>I'm guessing the router is the way to go, but can you lead me to some
>hints and tips, pictures, or other suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
Get a circle cutter for the drill press. It cuts holes or circles.
Run it at a slow (~400 rpm) speed, use clamps, and be careful.
Depending on the size, a lathe works well too.
A plunge router with straight bit and circle cutting jig is about as
sharp and clean as any method you might try and better than most. I
use a Dewalt 621 router, a 1/2" straight bit, and a Jasper circle
cutting jig. I've cut numerous holes for dust collection using this
method. You can make your own circle cutting jig from a flat sheet
material like MDF, tempered hardboard or plywood. The method is
precise enough, that I don't think you need to cut all your holes
simultaneously. Most jigs work off a small pilot pin located at the
center. If you drill this pilot hole in all your stock simultaneously,
then cut your circles individually with the router, the holes will line
up with each other.
The small Jasper circle jig is available from Woodcraft. It has
settings for holes 1" to 7 1/2" in 1/16" increments.
Bob
It shouldn't be a problem. If the work piece in which you are cutting
the hole is small (providing little support for the router), you can
place some supporting stock around it. I usually use a piece of 3/4"
plywood as a base, then place the workpiece and some auxillary support
stock on tope of the plywood base. I'll use carpet tape and/or brads
to hold everything in place. I'll also use F-clamps to hold the base
on the bench. The base is sacrificial. I make sure that the center pin
goes through the workpiece and into the plywood base. This prevents
accidents when you cut through on the last pass with the router.
Your question is a good one, because the success of cutting clean
circles with a router is totally dependent on everything being locked
down tight. Don't depend on holding it with your hands.
Bob
Subbase at the http://www.patwarner.com/621_offset.html is set up to
produce a 6.00" hole. Drill pivot hole, drop the plunger on the pin,
and rout.
*******************************************************
[email protected] wrote:
> I'm building blast gates.
>
> I need to cut some clean 6-1/4" (or thereabouts) holes. Ideally, I'd
> cut through the 3/4" + 1/4" + 3/4" at the same time to get a perfect
> fit.
>
> I'm guessing the router is the way to go, but can you lead me to some
> hints and tips, pictures, or other suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
Use your collars. Lay out your desired opening on a sheet of template
material. Now determine your bit/collar difference for cutting. Say you're
using 1/2" bit and a 3/4" collar. Nail your fencing strips 3/4" away from
the layout lines. Now cut the pattern (it'll be 3/8" too large in both
dimensions), remove the fences, use your new template to cut your openings,
which will, of course be 3/8 smaller because of the bit/collar difference. .
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building blast gates.
>
> I need to cut some clean 6-1/4" (or thereabouts) holes. Ideally, I'd
> cut through the 3/4" + 1/4" + 3/4" at the same time to get a perfect
> fit.
>
> I'm guessing the router is the way to go, but can you lead me to some
> hints and tips, pictures, or other suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
Teach me to change dimensions in mid-thought. Change the 1/2 bit to 3/8.
Or, use 1/4 differences with the 1/2 bit.
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Use your collars. Lay out your desired opening on a sheet of template
> material. Now determine your bit/collar difference for cutting. Say
you're
> using 1/2" bit and a 3/4" collar. Nail your fencing strips 3/4" away from
> the layout lines. Now cut the pattern (it'll be 3/8" too large in both
> dimensions), remove the fences, use your new template to cut your
openings,
> which will, of course be 3/8 smaller because of the bit/collar difference.
.
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm building blast gates.
> >
> > I need to cut some clean 6-1/4" (or thereabouts) holes. Ideally, I'd
> > cut through the 3/4" + 1/4" + 3/4" at the same time to get a perfect
> > fit.
> >
> > I'm guessing the router is the way to go, but can you lead me to some
> > hints and tips, pictures, or other suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks,
>
>
Sorry, I saw the "(not circle)" and assumed it was not going to be a circle.
No problem starting with a trammel point to cut a female template, though.
No problem with a circle-cutting jig and a bandsaw to cut a male jig.
Allow your offset for the collar, and note that you cut in opposite
directions with the router when using female versus male jigs.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> George,
>
> how do I get the round template to start with?
>
> rough out w/ jigsaw then sand? just curious
>
> On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 07:42:31 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>
> >Teach me to change dimensions in mid-thought. Change the 1/2 bit to 3/8.
> >
> >Or, use 1/4 differences with the 1/2 bit.
> >
> >"George" <george@least> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Use your collars. Lay out your desired opening on a sheet of template
> >> material. Now determine your bit/collar difference for cutting. Say
> >you're
> >> using 1/2" bit and a 3/4" collar. Nail your fencing strips 3/4" away
from
> >> the layout lines. Now cut the pattern (it'll be 3/8" too large in both
> >> dimensions), remove the fences, use your new template to cut your
> >openings,
> >> which will, of course be 3/8 smaller because of the bit/collar
difference.
> >.
> >>
> >> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >> > I'm building blast gates.
> >> >
> >> > I need to cut some clean 6-1/4" (or thereabouts) holes. Ideally, I'd
> >> > cut through the 3/4" + 1/4" + 3/4" at the same time to get a perfect
> >> > fit.
> >> >
> >> > I'm guessing the router is the way to go, but can you lead me to some
> >> > hints and tips, pictures, or other suggestions?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks,
> >>
> >>
> >
>
George,
how do I get the round template to start with?
rough out w/ jigsaw then sand? just curious
On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 07:42:31 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>Teach me to change dimensions in mid-thought. Change the 1/2 bit to 3/8.
>
>Or, use 1/4 differences with the 1/2 bit.
>
>"George" <george@least> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Use your collars. Lay out your desired opening on a sheet of template
>> material. Now determine your bit/collar difference for cutting. Say
>you're
>> using 1/2" bit and a 3/4" collar. Nail your fencing strips 3/4" away from
>> the layout lines. Now cut the pattern (it'll be 3/8" too large in both
>> dimensions), remove the fences, use your new template to cut your
>openings,
>> which will, of course be 3/8 smaller because of the bit/collar difference.
>.
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > I'm building blast gates.
>> >
>> > I need to cut some clean 6-1/4" (or thereabouts) holes. Ideally, I'd
>> > cut through the 3/4" + 1/4" + 3/4" at the same time to get a perfect
>> > fit.
>> >
>> > I'm guessing the router is the way to go, but can you lead me to some
>> > hints and tips, pictures, or other suggestions?
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>>
>>
>
Round is a bit hard with this method.
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Use your collars. Lay out your desired opening on a sheet of template
> material. Now determine your bit/collar difference for cutting. Say
you're
> using 1/2" bit and a 3/4" collar. Nail your fencing strips 3/4" away from
> the layout lines. Now cut the pattern (it'll be 3/8" too large in both
> dimensions), remove the fences, use your new template to cut your
openings,
> which will, of course be 3/8 smaller because of the bit/collar difference.
.
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm building blast gates.
> >
> > I need to cut some clean 6-1/4" (or thereabouts) holes. Ideally, I'd
> > cut through the 3/4" + 1/4" + 3/4" at the same time to get a perfect
> > fit.
> >
> > I'm guessing the router is the way to go, but can you lead me to some
> > hints and tips, pictures, or other suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks,
>
>
Yes, that is what I meant. I want to "Keep" the piece with the hole
in it and discard the piece that becomes the circle. Confusing I
admit. But the shape is circular, not square, etc.
In my original post I noted I was making blast gates. So I need to
cut a clean hole in 3 pieces per gate; all alligned.
I'm making a modified version of this,
http://www.digitalnetworks.ca/~stevecater/wood/Blast_gates.htm
but I plan to just glue in the S&D pipe instead of using the flanges.
there are other plans also, so I've "borrowed" the ideas I like best
from each of them. The tape as shims, finger hole as stop, and dowel
as stop are ideas I liked from this one (simple). I'm using 3/4"
melamine as the body and 1/4" melamine as the slider gate. I
prototyped some with particle board to get a feel for it. The 1/4"
melamine looks to be on a mdf core, my 3/4" melamine is on a particle
board core. Either way they "look" reasonably nice and slide very
smoothly. I'm also just screwing the whole assembly together vs
glueing. I glued/nailed my prototype, but like the flexibility of
screws and it will allow me to make the holes independent and then
reassemble. I'm not sure yet if I'll glue the pipe into the gate
assembly or not. I'm hoping for a tight fit, and then like the
example here will put in 3 or 4 small screws.
Another option is to glue in a half coupler vs the pipe vs a flange.
Some pros/cons to each of those. The couplers allow for universal
use, but you have to cut one in half, and the O.D of the coupler is
probably not a true as the O.D of the pipe making the fit into the
gate more challenging.
Most of my gates are going to be integrated into the 6" custom dust
port of each tool, so the tool-side half will fit against/be apart of
the dust hood.
On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 13:56:01 GMT, Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 13:39:45 +0800, Old Nick <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 21:27:10 GMT, max <[email protected]> vaguely
>>proposed a theory
>>......and in reply I say!:
>>
>> remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>>
>>>Did any one notice in the subject line that he says "not a circle"
>>
>>Yeah, but I for one am not sure what _is_ wanted.
>
>
>A drill press circle cutter cuts both a circle and a hole. The cutter
>part can be switched around to give a cleaner hole or circle. (BTW, I
>checked out the Craftsman circle cutter ($20) and it's "Made in
>China," so I'd pass on that one.)
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> how do you pin? and secure? how thick is reasonable? plunge or not?
> what size/type of bit?
>
> I'm thinking of using 2-side carpet tape to secure to scrap; using a
> 1/4" straight bit (less material removal); cutting each piece
> separately (3/4" max); pinning with a screw or drill bit.
Screw the material and jig to a waste piece, making the unthreaded shank of
the screw the pivot point. Doublestick or tack the outside to keep from
moving. Rather than make an entirely new router base, however, make a hole
at the proper distance, sized for your collar and set your router in it to
cut your hole.
Plunge easier, of course.
BINGO!
If you have cable, see if you can catch a couple of "Router Workshop"
episodes.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> aaaah.. slip on a collar to my existing baseplate and insert the
> collar into the jig.. guess the jig can just be any piece of 1/4"
> material. something about the size of the baseplate might be more
> stable, but i get the jist. now this is starting to sound "simple".
aaaah.. slip on a collar to my existing baseplate and insert the
collar into the jig.. guess the jig can just be any piece of 1/4"
material. something about the size of the baseplate might be more
stable, but i get the jist. now this is starting to sound "simple".
On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 17:05:47 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> how do you pin? and secure? how thick is reasonable? plunge or not?
>> what size/type of bit?
>>
>> I'm thinking of using 2-side carpet tape to secure to scrap; using a
>> 1/4" straight bit (less material removal); cutting each piece
>> separately (3/4" max); pinning with a screw or drill bit.
>
>Screw the material and jig to a waste piece, making the unthreaded shank of
>the screw the pivot point. Doublestick or tack the outside to keep from
>moving. Rather than make an entirely new router base, however, make a hole
>at the proper distance, sized for your collar and set your router in it to
>cut your hole.
>
>Plunge easier, of course.
>
>
how do you pin? and secure? how thick is reasonable? plunge or not?
what size/type of bit?
I'm thinking of using 2-side carpet tape to secure to scrap; using a
1/4" straight bit (less material removal); cutting each piece
separately (3/4" max); pinning with a screw or drill bit.
i have the PC 690 kit, with the plunge base. the plunge is so stiff
and sticky i don't see how i can use it. i'll try to loosen it up and
if not, i may just go with the fixed base and try to figure something
out
On 10 Dec 2004 19:44:40 GMT, [email protected] (Greg) wrote:
>I cut circles with a router. Make a baseplate extension out of 1/8" plywood
>(door skin). Drill a hole at any radius you want to cut and pin it to the work
>piece. In thick stock you will need to make repeated passes at increasing
>depths. It goes pretty fast.
Did any one notice in the subject line that he says "not a circle"
> Circle cutter on a drill press works great and gives really clean
> holes
>
> John
>
> On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 04:17:11 -0700,
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>> I'm building blast gates.
>>
>> I need to cut some clean 6-1/4" (or thereabouts) holes. Ideally, I'd
>> cut through the 3/4" + 1/4" + 3/4" at the same time to get a perfect
>> fit.
>>
>> I'm guessing the router is the way to go, but can you lead me to some
>> hints and tips, pictures, or other suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks,
>
>
On 9 Dec 2004 07:00:41 -0800, "Bob"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I've read mixed reviews on cutting holes with a drill press in the rec
>archives. I'm sure not all circle cutters are created equal. What
>brand do you use and recommend?
>
>Bob
Many stores sell circle cutters (Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, Ace,
hardware stores, etc). Look at the package and find out where it is
made. Made in USA, made in Canada, made in Germany are usually good.
Lowest quality (for machined tools and castings) is "Made in China."
A circle cutter is about the most risky thing on a drill press, so
think carefully during setup and operation.
On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 21:27:10 GMT, max <[email protected]> vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>Did any one notice in the subject line that he says "not a circle"
Yeah, but I for one am not sure what _is_ wanted.
THANKS TO ALL!!!!
We have success.
I made a circle template using a 1/4" mdf/melamine scrap.
Into one end I drilled a 3/8" hole for the router bushing template
(using a 1/4" straight bit). The "correct" distance away I drilled a
9/64th hole. The pin for that hole was a cut-off chunk of a framing
nail-gun nail. I made pins of slightly less than 1/2", 1", and 1-1/4"
(1/4" is taken up by the template I made).
Then I used 2-stick tape to hold the production piece down to a scrap
3/4" plywood piece. 3 strips of tape was sufficient - 1 to hold the
center "circle" and 2 to hold the outside "hole piece".
For my 1/4" parts, 1 pass was enough. For the 3/4" parts, I had to
take a couple passes on one side, then flip it over and take a final
pass on the opposite side. My 1/4" bit was just shy of cutting
through. Bummer.
Anyway, I was fortunate. I have a very tight fit between the 6" (6.25
OD) and the parts I made. So tight, in fact, that I doubt I'll glue
nor screw them. It's just added flexibility should I want to change
out the PVC parts.
So I got one complete. I plan to run a batch now, and when I do I'll
post some pictures.
Great help here!
On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 04:17:11 -0700,
[email protected] wrote:
>I'm building blast gates.
>
>I need to cut some clean 6-1/4" (or thereabouts) holes. Ideally, I'd
>cut through the 3/4" + 1/4" + 3/4" at the same time to get a perfect
>fit.
>
>I'm guessing the router is the way to go, but can you lead me to some
>hints and tips, pictures, or other suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
Bob
Don't even remember the brand, but the key is to run the drill press
slow, and FEED the circle cutter slowly to get a good clean cut.
John
On 9 Dec 2004 07:00:41 -0800, "Bob"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I've read mixed reviews on cutting holes with a drill press in the rec
>archives. I'm sure not all circle cutters are created equal. What
>brand do you use and recommend?
>
>Bob
On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 13:39:45 +0800, Old Nick <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 21:27:10 GMT, max <[email protected]> vaguely
>proposed a theory
>......and in reply I say!:
>
> remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>
>>Did any one notice in the subject line that he says "not a circle"
>
>Yeah, but I for one am not sure what _is_ wanted.
A drill press circle cutter cuts both a circle and a hole. The cutter
part can be switched around to give a cleaner hole or circle. (BTW, I
checked out the Craftsman circle cutter ($20) and it's "Made in
China," so I'd pass on that one.)
Circle cutter on a drill press works great and gives really clean
holes
John
On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 04:17:11 -0700,
[email protected] wrote:
>I'm building blast gates.
>
>I need to cut some clean 6-1/4" (or thereabouts) holes. Ideally, I'd
>cut through the 3/4" + 1/4" + 3/4" at the same time to get a perfect
>fit.
>
>I'm guessing the router is the way to go, but can you lead me to some
>hints and tips, pictures, or other suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
Is the 6.25" diameter, 3-1/8" radius going to be a challenge?
My PC690's baseblate is 5-3/4" dia. I'm going to be pivoting very
close to it's edge.
On 9 Dec 2004 06:52:41 -0800, "Bob"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>A plunge router with straight bit and circle cutting jig is about as
>sharp and clean as any method you might try and better than most. I
>use a Dewalt 621 router, a 1/2" straight bit, and a Jasper circle
>cutting jig. I've cut numerous holes for dust collection using this
>method. You can make your own circle cutting jig from a flat sheet
>material like MDF, tempered hardboard or plywood. The method is
>precise enough, that I don't think you need to cut all your holes
>simultaneously. Most jigs work off a small pilot pin located at the
>center. If you drill this pilot hole in all your stock simultaneously,
>then cut your circles individually with the router, the holes will line
>up with each other.
>
>The small Jasper circle jig is available from Woodcraft. It has
>settings for holes 1" to 7 1/2" in 1/16" increments.
>
>Bob