Finally got around to posting photos of some shop-made t-track
flipper stops I built for my old RAS. They aren't beautiful; but
they work well and are easy to make.
Photos at bottom of http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/RAS_Table.html
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html
Al before you replace the top, consider making a two ply steel reinforced
"Mr. Sawdust" style top for your RAS. This will be stable and remain flat.
Suggested reading:
http://mrsawdust.com/index.php
and
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Morris, I am about to replace my table top on my RAS as well and find
> your article very helpful. Excuse my ignorance but what is a "propel
> nut". Is that the same as a t-nut?
>
> Al Hoffmann
>
[email protected] wrote:
> Morris, I am about to replace my table top on my RAS as well and find
> your article very helpful. Excuse my ignorance but what is a "propel
> nut". Is that the same as a t-nut?
Al...
Very similar. See the bottom photo at
<http://www.stafast.com/products/tnuts.html>. The Propell nut has
no prongs and (sort of) screws itself into the hole when you
press it into place. They're available in steel from Lee Valley;
but I couldn't find 'em available anywhere in stainless. Use s/s
if you have better luck than I did.
Do take time to check the page Rumpty suggests. If I'd seen that
before I replaced my RAS top, I think I'd have incorporated the
reinforcement strips in mine (and plan to if I outlast the
current top.)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html