On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:22:25 PM UTC-5, John McGaw wrote:
> On 1/2/2017 4:19 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> > It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To much to want to
> > do it on the table saw and not enough to justify the purchase of a panel saw.
> >
> > Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
> >
> > How is it working out for you?
> >
> > The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
> >
> >
> I have one -- bought it for a remodeling project where it would have been
> too much of a PITA to run all the way to the shop for every plywood cut.
> I'll say that the Kreg worked OK for this purpose with a DeWalt cordless
> saw but is is certainly not something I'd use for fine furniture work
> unless it was for the roughest sort of sheet breakdown which will later go
> through the table saw.
What is the problem with the guide?
SWMBO wants me to built some bookcases for her cookbooks. They will flank
a window in the kitchen with a shelf across the entire top. My shop is way too small to cut
plywood on the table saw, so the vast majority of cuts will need to be done by hand or
by someone else.
Typically I've always used a straight edge to cut plywood, but I've never built anything
with "quality" plywood. This is a timely question since I was just informed of the project
today.
On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 12:07:02 -0800 (PST), MJ <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 1:19:32 PM UTC-8, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To much to want to
>> do it on the table saw and not enough to justify the purchase of a panel
>> saw.
>>
>> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
>>
>> How is it working out for you?
>>
>
>Bob,
>
>Invest in a tracksaw, if you have the dough. I have the Kreg and its so limiting. I would use it to rough cut and then finish up at the tablesaw. In fact, I often do that with my track saw and I own the Festool saw. Getting "nuts on" parallel can be tricky anyway you go. But the Festool and any other track saw, is so much better. Good luck.
I do thesame with my track saw, not so much for parallel sides as
consistency. I feel better making all the like-sized cuts with a
fence (without moving it).
On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 3:19:32 PM UTC-6, Bob La Londe wrote:
> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To much to want t=
o=20
> do it on the table saw and not enough to justify the purchase of a panel=
=20
> saw.
>=20
> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
>=20
> How is it working out for you?
>=20
> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
Late reply to this post, but I just attempted to use a Kreg guide to make n=
ine 6" wide slices from a 5'x5' sheet of 1/2" Baltic Birch. By the time I =
got to last cut I had a noticeable bow in the piece. After checking all 9 =
pieces with a straight edge I found that each piece was successively more b=
owed. Total waste of a sheet of birch. As was noted in an earlier comment =
- the Kreg will amplify any edge imperfection. I'll go back to using a cla=
mp-on straight edge.
On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:45:24 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 15:57:47 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>=20
> >I guess that it all depends on just how many cuts you need to make. If=
=20
> >it were me, I think that the first thing I'd consider would be a=20
> >straight 8' length of 1x - carefully measure, clamp it at both ends and=
=20
> >make your rip cut.
>=20
> Where do you find a piece of 1x that's that straight? =20
Another option, as I did, would be to purchase a 20' length of 1/2 X 2 alum=
inum bar - $60, I think it was. Have the metal shop cut it, for 8' and 12=
' straight edges. Doesn't rust, warp, rot, etc. https://www.flickr.com/=
photos/43836144@N04/15361416961/in/dateposted-public/
Sonny
On 1/2/2017 3:19 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To much to
> want to do it on the table saw and not enough to justify the purchase
> of a panel saw.
>
> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
>
> How is it working out for you?
>
> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
Don't have one, but my concern would be that it might not remain
parallel unless you had a longer edge to the "T" riding the edge.
I guess that it all depends on just how many cuts you need to make. If
it were me, I think that the first thing I'd consider would be a
straight 8' length of 1x - carefully measure, clamp it at both ends and
make your rip cut.
[email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> Where do you find a piece of 1x that's that straight? 1Xs also flex
> quite a bit. I've ripped down some MDF and used that as a
> straight-edge, though it's even easier if you rip a piece and mount it
> on top of another piece, then rip the bottom piece with the saw you're
> going to use. Then you know exactly where you're cutting.
>
> However, "the first thing I'd consider" would be my track saw. ;-)
>
Sporting goods stores usually carry them, but they've got a blade on the
end you'll have to cut off. :-)
Warrior makes them 3" longer than everyone else. It's much easier to cut a
stick than it is to add length on the end.
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 at 5:20:32 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 1/3/17 11:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 at 12:31:32 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
> >> "Sonny" wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >> On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:45:24 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> >>> On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 15:57:47 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
> >>> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> I guess that it all depends on just how many cuts you need to make. If
> >>>> it were me, I think that the first thing I'd consider would be a
> >>>> straight 8' length of 1x - carefully measure, clamp it at both ends and
> >>>> make your rip cut.
> >>>
> >>> Where do you find a piece of 1x that's that straight?
> >>
> >> Another option, as I did, would be to purchase a 20' length of 1/2 X 2
> >> aluminum bar - $60, I think it was. Have the metal shop cut it, for 8' and
> >> 12' straight edges. Doesn't rust, warp, rot, etc.
> >> https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/15361416961/in/dateposted-public/
> >>
> >> Sonny
> >>
> >> *********
> >>
> >> Probably what I'll wind up doing... more or less. I buy aluminum bar stock
> >> all the time for my mold making business. Probably have a dozen pieces long
> >> enough on the rack right now.
> >
> > Of course, using a straightedge doesn't eliminate the problem of a
> > sheet that isn't square to start with. Setting the straightedge based
> > on measurements from the un-square edge will result in an un-square piece.
> > If that isn't caught before the first cut is made, all further cuts will
> > be off also.
> >
>
> Running the Kreg along a bad edge will do the same.
>
I know. That was my point. It's not a given that the straightedge has that advantage
over the Kreg jig nor the Kreg jig over the straightedge. Granted, a T-square would
make quick work of checking the edge for either method.
Hey, I'm not advocating the Kreg over a straightedge, just comparing and contrasting,
as they say. I think Leon's point of the small contact point is probably the strongest point
against it. The homemade track used with a verified edge seems like the best option
other than, in my case, the storage of an 8' x 1' track.
On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 at 12:54:14 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 at 12:31:32 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
> > "Sonny" wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> > On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:45:24 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> > > On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 15:57:47 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
> > > <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >
> > > >I guess that it all depends on just how many cuts you need to make. If
> > > >it were me, I think that the first thing I'd consider would be a
> > > >straight 8' length of 1x - carefully measure, clamp it at both ends and
> > > >make your rip cut.
> > >
> > > Where do you find a piece of 1x that's that straight?
> >
> > Another option, as I did, would be to purchase a 20' length of 1/2 X 2
> > aluminum bar - $60, I think it was. Have the metal shop cut it, for 8'
> > and
> > 12' straight edges. Doesn't rust, warp, rot, etc.
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/15361416961/in/dateposted-public/
> >
> > Sonny
> >
> > *********
> >
> > Probably what I'll wind up doing... more or less. I buy aluminum bar
> > stock
> > all the time for my mold making business. Probably have a dozen pieces
> > long
> > enough on the rack right now.
>
> Of course, using a straightedge doesn't eliminate the problem of a
> sheet that isn't square to start with. Setting the straightedge based
> on measurements from the un-square edge will result in an un-square piece.
> If that isn't caught before the first cut is made, all further cuts will
> be off also.
>
> As Mike said, it's a shame we have to worry about that variable. Squaring
> the end of a 1 x 6 is standard practice. Squaring the edge of a sheet good
> shouldn't be required.
>
> **********
>
> This is one of those rare circumstances where "good enough" really is good
> enough. I am throwing up a bunch of rough plywood and stick shelves. Not
> even going to trim the edges.
Not even to prevent bowing? Blasphemy! ;-)
> As long as there are no holes for parts to fall through it will be good.
For now... ;-)
On 1/2/2017 4:19 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To much to want to
> do it on the table saw and not enough to justify the purchase of a panel saw.
>
> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
>
> How is it working out for you?
>
> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
>
>
I have one -- bought it for a remodeling project where it would have been
too much of a PITA to run all the way to the shop for every plywood cut.
I'll say that the Kreg worked OK for this purpose with a DeWalt cordless
saw but is is certainly not something I'd use for fine furniture work
unless it was for the roughest sort of sheet breakdown which will later go
through the table saw.
On 1/3/2017 11:17 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 1/3/17 9:10 AM, John McCoy wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:VM6dnaV3595nu_bFnZ2dnUU7-
>> [email protected]:
>>
>>> Simply cut, with your circular saw, a length away from the long or
>>> short side of a sheet of plywood. Then with that piece use the
>>> factory edge as the saw guide and clamp it down.
>>
>> Time was you could count on the factory edge of a sheet of plywood
>> being straight. I'm not confident this is the case any longer, at
>> least not for the cheaper grades you'd get at Home Depot or the
>> like.
>>
>> John
>>
>
> That's one reason I suggested hardboard/mdf.
> However, if you have several sheets of plywood, odds are pretty good
> that you'll get a good edge out of one. Pretty pathetic that we have to
> worry about that, though.
>
+1 I'm sure the plywood edges are straight until they are knocked out
of whack. And I think I would trust that edge over the short leading
guide edge of the Kreg fence.
On 1/2/2017 6:45 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 15:57:47 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 1/2/2017 3:19 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To much to
>>> want to do it on the table saw and not enough to justify the purchase
>>> of a panel saw.
>>>
>>> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
>>>
>>> How is it working out for you?
>>>
>>> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
>>
>> Don't have one, but my concern would be that it might not remain
>> parallel unless you had a longer edge to the "T" riding the edge.
>>
>> I guess that it all depends on just how many cuts you need to make. If
>> it were me, I think that the first thing I'd consider would be a
>> straight 8' length of 1x - carefully measure, clamp it at both ends and
>> make your rip cut.
>
> Where do you find a piece of 1x that's that straight? 1Xs also flex
> quite a bit. I've ripped down some MDF and used that as a
> straight-edge, though it's even easier if you rip a piece and mount it
> on top of another piece, then rip the bottom piece with the saw you're
> going to use. Then you know exactly where you're cutting.
>
> However, "the first thing I'd consider" would be my track saw. ;-)
>
Simply cut, with your circular saw, a length away from the long or short
side of a sheet of plywood. Then with that piece use the factory edge as
the saw guide and clamp it down.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:VM6dnaV3595nu_bFnZ2dnUU7-
[email protected]:
> Simply cut, with your circular saw, a length away from the long or short
> side of a sheet of plywood. Then with that piece use the factory edge as
> the saw guide and clamp it down.
Time was you could count on the factory edge of a sheet
of plywood being straight. I'm not confident this is
the case any longer, at least not for the cheaper grades
you'd get at Home Depot or the like.
John
On 1/3/2017 7:48 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 10:20:06 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 1/2/17 6:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:22:25 PM UTC-5, John McGaw wrote:
>>>> On 1/2/2017 4:19 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>>>> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To much
>>>>> to want to do it on the table saw and not enough to justify the
>>>>> purchase of a panel saw.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
>>>>>
>>>>> How is it working out for you?
>>>>>
>>>>> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> I have one -- bought it for a remodeling project where it would
>>>> have been too much of a PITA to run all the way to the shop for
>>>> every plywood cut. I'll say that the Kreg worked OK for this
>>>> purpose with a DeWalt cordless saw but is is certainly not
>>>> something I'd use for fine furniture work unless it was for the
>>>> roughest sort of sheet breakdown which will later go through the
>>>> table saw.
>>>
>>> What is the problem with the guide?
>>>
>>> SWMBO wants me to built some bookcases for her cookbooks. They will
>>> flank a window in the kitchen with a shelf across the entire top. My
>>> shop is way too small to cut plywood on the table saw, so the vast
>>> majority of cuts will need to be done by hand or by someone else.
>>>
>>> Typically I've always used a straight edge to cut plywood, but I've
>>> never built anything with "quality" plywood. This is a timely
>>> question since I was just informed of the project today.
>>>
>>
>> Google build your own straight edge saw guide. That will give you a
>> few visuals for how to do it. The popular mechanics and this old house
>> links are good.
>>
>> If you buy a sheet of 1/4" hardboard or luan, it will be good for making
>> the guide and can be used for the backs of bookcases.
>>
>> Make 2: One for crosscuts, about 55" long and one the full 8foot.
>>
>> Use the factory edges for the straight edge guide sections.
>> Tip: Use screws or small dabs of CA or hot glue to attach the straight
>> edge to the sacrificial backing. That way, you can re-use the straight
>> edge and move it over a bit for when you mess up the sacrificial backer,
>> or get a different blade.
>>
>> These work extremely well for bookcase type sheetgoods, where you will
>> be covering the edges with faceframes or shelve edging. With a good
>> blade, I get cuts as clean as on my tablesaw woth its zero-clearance
>> insert.
>>
>
> That's a great idea, but it doesn't answer the original question:
>
> Is the Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide any good?
>
> While just about any homemade straightedge will work (some better than
> others) it still requires that you clamp the guide perfectly straight,
> etc. Doesn't the Kreg guide come with the advantage of a built-in edge
> guide to ensure parallel edges, especially for multiple cuts of the
> same size?
The Kreg built-in straight edge is only as good as the plywood edge is
straight. If the edge is not perfect that edge will be telegraphed to
the cut. I also have reservations that the edge does not extend forward
any more than it does. If it hits a rough spot on the plywood edge I
think the saw would tend to veer towards the outer edge of the plywood.
It probably will work good on a straight and smooth edge.
>
> Of course, the more important question is: Does it come with any built-in
> *disadvantages*, such as not really following the edge, i.e. drifting,
> poor saw clamping mechanism, hard to use ruler, etc?
See above.
>
> I'm not pushing back on any of the tried and true straightedge methods,
> many of which I've used for years, I'm just wondering if the Kreg jig
> offers any advantages for repeat cuts considering it's only $30.
I'm betting that if you are not satisfied that you can return it. ;~)
>
> The first thing that comes to mind is it's size. For those of us with
> small shops and limited storage, storing an 8' guide is problematic.
>
On Fri, 13 Jan 2017 15:13:59 -0800, Electric Comet
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 14:19:25 -0700
>"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
>
>looks like anything blue on kreg stuff is plastic
>at least the ones i looked at
There is something wrong with plastic?
On Wednesday, January 11, 2017 at 4:27:09 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 14:19:25 -0700
> "Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
>
> material up to 24 inch wide so not too good for full sheets
There were 2 lines that go together:
Cut materials up to 24" (610mm) wide
Rip sheets of plywood in half in just one cut
So, good for ripping a full 4 x 8 sheet into two 2 x 8 sheets, minus the kerf,
of course.
Not so good for crosscutting a full 4 x 8 sheet into two 4 x 4 sheets.
Which do you think is done more often?
On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 1:19:32 PM UTC-8, Bob La Londe wrote:
> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To much to want t=
o=20
> do it on the table saw and not enough to justify the purchase of a panel=
=20
> saw.
>=20
> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
>=20
> How is it working out for you?
>=20
Bob,
Invest in a tracksaw, if you have the dough. I have the Kreg and its so lim=
iting. I would use it to rough cut and then finish up at the tablesaw. In f=
act, I often do that with my track saw and I own the Festool saw. Getting "=
nuts on" parallel can be tricky anyway you go. But the Festool and any othe=
r track saw, is so much better. Good luck.
MJ
On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 10:20:06 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 1/2/17 6:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:22:25 PM UTC-5, John McGaw wrote:
> >> On 1/2/2017 4:19 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> >>> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To much
> >>> to want to do it on the table saw and not enough to justify the
> >>> purchase of a panel saw.
> >>>
> >>> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
> >>>
> >>> How is it working out for you?
> >>>
> >>> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
> >>>
> >>>
> >> I have one -- bought it for a remodeling project where it would
> >> have been too much of a PITA to run all the way to the shop for
> >> every plywood cut. I'll say that the Kreg worked OK for this
> >> purpose with a DeWalt cordless saw but is is certainly not
> >> something I'd use for fine furniture work unless it was for the
> >> roughest sort of sheet breakdown which will later go through the
> >> table saw.
> >
> > What is the problem with the guide?
> >
> > SWMBO wants me to built some bookcases for her cookbooks. They will
> > flank a window in the kitchen with a shelf across the entire top. My
> > shop is way too small to cut plywood on the table saw, so the vast
> > majority of cuts will need to be done by hand or by someone else.
> >
> > Typically I've always used a straight edge to cut plywood, but I've
> > never built anything with "quality" plywood. This is a timely
> > question since I was just informed of the project today.
> >
>
> Google build your own straight edge saw guide. That will give you a
> few visuals for how to do it. The popular mechanics and this old house
> links are good.
>
> If you buy a sheet of 1/4" hardboard or luan, it will be good for making
> the guide and can be used for the backs of bookcases.
>
> Make 2: One for crosscuts, about 55" long and one the full 8foot.
>
> Use the factory edges for the straight edge guide sections.
> Tip: Use screws or small dabs of CA or hot glue to attach the straight
> edge to the sacrificial backing. That way, you can re-use the straight
> edge and move it over a bit for when you mess up the sacrificial backer,
> or get a different blade.
>
> These work extremely well for bookcase type sheetgoods, where you will
> be covering the edges with faceframes or shelve edging. With a good
> blade, I get cuts as clean as on my tablesaw woth its zero-clearance
> insert.
>
That's a great idea, but it doesn't answer the original question:
Is the Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide any good?
While just about any homemade straightedge will work (some better than
others) it still requires that you clamp the guide perfectly straight,
etc. Doesn't the Kreg guide come with the advantage of a built-in edge
guide to ensure parallel edges, especially for multiple cuts of the
same size?
Of course, the more important question is: Does it come with any built-in
*disadvantages*, such as not really following the edge, i.e. drifting,
poor saw clamping mechanism, hard to use ruler, etc?
I'm not pushing back on any of the tried and true straightedge methods,
many of which I've used for years, I'm just wondering if the Kreg jig
offers any advantages for repeat cuts considering it's only $30.
The first thing that comes to mind is it's size. For those of us with
small shops and limited storage, storing an 8' guide is problematic.
On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 at 12:31:32 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
> "Sonny" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:45:24 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> > On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 15:57:47 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >I guess that it all depends on just how many cuts you need to make. If
> > >it were me, I think that the first thing I'd consider would be a
> > >straight 8' length of 1x - carefully measure, clamp it at both ends and
> > >make your rip cut.
> >
> > Where do you find a piece of 1x that's that straight?
>
> Another option, as I did, would be to purchase a 20' length of 1/2 X 2
> aluminum bar - $60, I think it was. Have the metal shop cut it, for 8' and
> 12' straight edges. Doesn't rust, warp, rot, etc.
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/15361416961/in/dateposted-public/
>
> Sonny
>
> *********
>
> Probably what I'll wind up doing... more or less. I buy aluminum bar stock
> all the time for my mold making business. Probably have a dozen pieces long
> enough on the rack right now.
Of course, using a straightedge doesn't eliminate the problem of a
sheet that isn't square to start with. Setting the straightedge based
on measurements from the un-square edge will result in an un-square piece.
If that isn't caught before the first cut is made, all further cuts will
be off also.
As Mike said, it's a shame we have to worry about that variable. Squaring
the end of a 1 x 6 is standard practice. Squaring the edge of a sheet good
shouldn't be required.
On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 15:57:47 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 1/2/2017 3:19 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To much to
>> want to do it on the table saw and not enough to justify the purchase
>> of a panel saw.
>>
>> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
>>
>> How is it working out for you?
>>
>> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
>
>Don't have one, but my concern would be that it might not remain
>parallel unless you had a longer edge to the "T" riding the edge.
>
>I guess that it all depends on just how many cuts you need to make. If
>it were me, I think that the first thing I'd consider would be a
>straight 8' length of 1x - carefully measure, clamp it at both ends and
>make your rip cut.
Where do you find a piece of 1x that's that straight? 1Xs also flex
quite a bit. I've ripped down some MDF and used that as a
straight-edge, though it's even easier if you rip a piece and mount it
on top of another piece, then rip the bottom piece with the saw you're
going to use. Then you know exactly where you're cutting.
However, "the first thing I'd consider" would be my track saw. ;-)
>> >>> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To much
>> >>> to want to do it on the table saw and not enough to justify the
>> >>> purchase of a panel saw.
>> >>> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
>> >>> How is it working out for you?
>> >>> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
>> >>>
Don't like the plastic ? .. free shipping until tomorrow ! :-)
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=41707&cat=1,240,45313&ap=1
John T.
On 1/2/17 6:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:22:25 PM UTC-5, John McGaw wrote:
>> On 1/2/2017 4:19 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To much
>>> to want to do it on the table saw and not enough to justify the
>>> purchase of a panel saw.
>>>
>>> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
>>>
>>> How is it working out for you?
>>>
>>> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
>>>
>>>
>> I have one -- bought it for a remodeling project where it would
>> have been too much of a PITA to run all the way to the shop for
>> every plywood cut. I'll say that the Kreg worked OK for this
>> purpose with a DeWalt cordless saw but is is certainly not
>> something I'd use for fine furniture work unless it was for the
>> roughest sort of sheet breakdown which will later go through the
>> table saw.
>
> What is the problem with the guide?
>
> SWMBO wants me to built some bookcases for her cookbooks. They will
> flank a window in the kitchen with a shelf across the entire top. My
> shop is way too small to cut plywood on the table saw, so the vast
> majority of cuts will need to be done by hand or by someone else.
>
> Typically I've always used a straight edge to cut plywood, but I've
> never built anything with "quality" plywood. This is a timely
> question since I was just informed of the project today.
>
Google build your own straight edge saw guide. That will give you a
few visuals for how to do it. The popular mechanics and this old house
links are good.
If you buy a sheet of 1/4" hardboard or luan, it will be good for making
the guide and can be used for the backs of bookcases.
Make 2: One for crosscuts, about 55" long and one the full 8foot.
Use the factory edges for the straight edge guide sections.
Tip: Use screws or small dabs of CA or hot glue to attach the straight
edge to the sacrificial backing. That way, you can re-use the straight
edge and move it over a bit for when you mess up the sacrificial backer,
or get a different blade.
These work extremely well for bookcase type sheetgoods, where you will
be covering the edges with faceframes or shelve edging. With a good
blade, I get cuts as clean as on my tablesaw woth its zero-clearance
insert.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/2/17 9:20 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 1/2/17 6:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:22:25 PM UTC-5, John McGaw wrote:
>>> On 1/2/2017 4:19 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>>> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To
>>>> much to want to do it on the table saw and not enough to
>>>> justify the purchase of a panel saw.
>>>>
>>>> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
>>>>
>>>> How is it working out for you?
>>>>
>>>> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I have one -- bought it for a remodeling project where it would
>>> have been too much of a PITA to run all the way to the shop for
>>> every plywood cut. I'll say that the Kreg worked OK for this
>>> purpose with a DeWalt cordless saw but is is certainly not
>>> something I'd use for fine furniture work unless it was for the
>>> roughest sort of sheet breakdown which will later go through the
>>> table saw.
>>
>> What is the problem with the guide?
>>
>> SWMBO wants me to built some bookcases for her cookbooks. They
>> will flank a window in the kitchen with a shelf across the entire
>> top. My shop is way too small to cut plywood on the table saw, so
>> the vast majority of cuts will need to be done by hand or by
>> someone else.
>>
>> Typically I've always used a straight edge to cut plywood, but
>> I've never built anything with "quality" plywood. This is a timely
>> question since I was just informed of the project today.
>>
>
> Google build your own straight edge saw guide. That will give you
> a few visuals for how to do it. The popular mechanics and this old
> house links are good.
>
> If you buy a sheet of 1/4" hardboard or luan, it will be good for
> making the guide and can be used for the backs of bookcases.
>
> Make 2: One for crosscuts, about 55" long and one the full 8foot.
>
> Use the factory edges for the straight edge guide sections. Tip: Use
> screws or small dabs of CA or hot glue to attach the straight edge to
> the sacrificial backing. That way, you can re-use the straight edge
> and move it over a bit for when you mess up the sacrificial backer,
> or get a different blade.
>
> These work extremely well for bookcase type sheetgoods, where you
> will be covering the edges with faceframes or shelve edging. With a
> good blade, I get cuts as clean as on my tablesaw woth its
> zero-clearance insert.
>
By the way, search around for the thickest blade you can find.
Those thin, fine-tooth generic plywood circular saw blades they sell for
cheap, are terrible. Thin kerf blades bend easily and can result in a
wavy cut, no matter how straight you keep the saw.
Take some calipers or read the specs on the blades to find their
thickness. Spend what it takes to get a high quality, high tooth count,
thick blade that won't bend.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/3/17 7:48 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 10:20:06 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 1/2/17 6:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:22:25 PM UTC-5, John McGaw
>>> wrote:
>>>> On 1/2/2017 4:19 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>>>> It looks interesting. I need to rip a bit of plywood. To
>>>>> much to want to do it on the table saw and not enough to
>>>>> justify the purchase of a panel saw.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any of you guys using a Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide?
>>>>>
>>>>> How is it working out for you?
>>>>>
>>>>> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> I have one -- bought it for a remodeling project where it
>>>> would have been too much of a PITA to run all the way to the
>>>> shop for every plywood cut. I'll say that the Kreg worked OK
>>>> for this purpose with a DeWalt cordless saw but is is certainly
>>>> not something I'd use for fine furniture work unless it was for
>>>> the roughest sort of sheet breakdown which will later go
>>>> through the table saw.
>>>
>>> What is the problem with the guide?
>>>
>>> SWMBO wants me to built some bookcases for her cookbooks. They
>>> will flank a window in the kitchen with a shelf across the entire
>>> top. My shop is way too small to cut plywood on the table saw, so
>>> the vast majority of cuts will need to be done by hand or by
>>> someone else.
>>>
>>> Typically I've always used a straight edge to cut plywood, but
>>> I've never built anything with "quality" plywood. This is a
>>> timely question since I was just informed of the project today.
>>>
>>
>> Google build your own straight edge saw guide. That will give you
>> a few visuals for how to do it. The popular mechanics and this old
>> house links are good.
>>
>> If you buy a sheet of 1/4" hardboard or luan, it will be good for
>> making the guide and can be used for the backs of bookcases.
>>
>> Make 2: One for crosscuts, about 55" long and one the full 8foot.
>>
>> Use the factory edges for the straight edge guide sections. Tip:
>> Use screws or small dabs of CA or hot glue to attach the straight
>> edge to the sacrificial backing. That way, you can re-use the
>> straight edge and move it over a bit for when you mess up the
>> sacrificial backer, or get a different blade.
>>
>> These work extremely well for bookcase type sheetgoods, where you
>> will be covering the edges with faceframes or shelve edging. With
>> a good blade, I get cuts as clean as on my tablesaw woth its
>> zero-clearance insert.
>>
>
> That's a great idea, but it doesn't answer the original question:
>
> Is the Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide any good?
>
> While just about any homemade straightedge will work (some better
> than others) it still requires that you clamp the guide perfectly
> straight, etc. Doesn't the Kreg guide come with the advantage of a
> built-in edge guide to ensure parallel edges, especially for multiple
> cuts of the same size?
>
> Of course, the more important question is: Does it come with any
> built-in *disadvantages*, such as not really following the edge, i.e.
> drifting, poor saw clamping mechanism, hard to use ruler, etc?
>
> I'm not pushing back on any of the tried and true straightedge
> methods, many of which I've used for years, I'm just wondering if the
> Kreg jig offers any advantages for repeat cuts considering it's only
> $30.
>
> The first thing that comes to mind is it's size. For those of us
> with small shops and limited storage, storing an 8' guide is
> problematic.
>
A couple of things from just looking at it.
The saw is always attached to the Kreg making it tedious to remove to do
other cutting. The Festool slides on and off its jig with ease.
The Kreg looks to be a two-handed operation. With a clamp on
straight-edge, you only need one hand on the saw.
The Kreg relies on the straightness of the stock being cut to provide a
straight cut. While it may seem great for repetitive cuts, the
slightest imperfection can be amplified on the next cut and each
successive cut.
A clamp on guide is straight every time, no matter what is being cut.
That is probably the main advantage I see to the clamp on straight-edge.
For rough carpentry, I think the Kreg is very, very nice, especially for
30 bucks.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/3/17 9:10 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:VM6dnaV3595nu_bFnZ2dnUU7-
> [email protected]:
>
>> Simply cut, with your circular saw, a length away from the long or
>> short side of a sheet of plywood. Then with that piece use the
>> factory edge as the saw guide and clamp it down.
>
> Time was you could count on the factory edge of a sheet of plywood
> being straight. I'm not confident this is the case any longer, at
> least not for the cheaper grades you'd get at Home Depot or the
> like.
>
> John
>
That's one reason I suggested hardboard/mdf.
However, if you have several sheets of plywood, odds are pretty good
that you'll get a good edge out of one. Pretty pathetic that we have to
worry about that, though.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"Sonny" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:45:24 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 15:57:47 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I guess that it all depends on just how many cuts you need to make. If
> >it were me, I think that the first thing I'd consider would be a
> >straight 8' length of 1x - carefully measure, clamp it at both ends and
> >make your rip cut.
>
> Where do you find a piece of 1x that's that straight?
Another option, as I did, would be to purchase a 20' length of 1/2 X 2
aluminum bar - $60, I think it was. Have the metal shop cut it, for 8' and
12' straight edges. Doesn't rust, warp, rot, etc.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/15361416961/in/dateposted-public/
Sonny
*********
Probably what I'll wind up doing... more or less. I buy aluminum bar stock
all the time for my mold making business. Probably have a dozen pieces long
enough on the rack right now.
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 at 12:31:32 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
> "Sonny" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:45:24 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> > On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 15:57:47 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >I guess that it all depends on just how many cuts you need to make. If
> > >it were me, I think that the first thing I'd consider would be a
> > >straight 8' length of 1x - carefully measure, clamp it at both ends and
> > >make your rip cut.
> >
> > Where do you find a piece of 1x that's that straight?
>
> Another option, as I did, would be to purchase a 20' length of 1/2 X 2
> aluminum bar - $60, I think it was. Have the metal shop cut it, for 8'
> and
> 12' straight edges. Doesn't rust, warp, rot, etc.
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/15361416961/in/dateposted-public/
>
> Sonny
>
> *********
>
> Probably what I'll wind up doing... more or less. I buy aluminum bar
> stock
> all the time for my mold making business. Probably have a dozen pieces
> long
> enough on the rack right now.
Of course, using a straightedge doesn't eliminate the problem of a
sheet that isn't square to start with. Setting the straightedge based
on measurements from the un-square edge will result in an un-square piece.
If that isn't caught before the first cut is made, all further cuts will
be off also.
As Mike said, it's a shame we have to worry about that variable. Squaring
the end of a 1 x 6 is standard practice. Squaring the edge of a sheet good
shouldn't be required.
**********
This is one of those rare circumstances where "good enough" really is good
enough. I am throwing up a bunch of rough plywood and stick shelves. Not
even going to trim the edges. As long as there are no holes for parts to
fall through it will be good.
"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 at 12:54:14 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> "DerbyDad03" wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 at 12:31:32 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> > "Sonny" wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> >
>> > On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:45:24 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
>> > > On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 15:57:47 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
>> > > <[email protected]> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > >I guess that it all depends on just how many cuts you need to make.
>> > > >If
>> > > >it were me, I think that the first thing I'd consider would be a
>> > > >straight 8' length of 1x - carefully measure, clamp it at both ends
>> > > >and
>> > > >make your rip cut.
>> > >
>> > > Where do you find a piece of 1x that's that straight?
>> >
>> > Another option, as I did, would be to purchase a 20' length of 1/2 X 2
>> > aluminum bar - $60, I think it was. Have the metal shop cut it, for
>> > 8'
>> > and
>> > 12' straight edges. Doesn't rust, warp, rot, etc.
>> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/15361416961/in/dateposted-public/
>> >
>> > Sonny
>> >
>> > *********
>> >
>> > Probably what I'll wind up doing... more or less. I buy aluminum bar
>> > stock
>> > all the time for my mold making business. Probably have a dozen pieces
>> > long
>> > enough on the rack right now.
>>
>> Of course, using a straightedge doesn't eliminate the problem of a
>> sheet that isn't square to start with. Setting the straightedge based
>> on measurements from the un-square edge will result in an un-square
>> piece.
>> If that isn't caught before the first cut is made, all further cuts will
>> be off also.
>>
>> As Mike said, it's a shame we have to worry about that variable. Squaring
>> the end of a 1 x 6 is standard practice. Squaring the edge of a sheet
>> good
>> shouldn't be required.
>>
>> **********
>>
>> This is one of those rare circumstances where "good enough" really is
>> good
>> enough. I am throwing up a bunch of rough plywood and stick shelves.
>> Not
>> even going to trim the edges.
>
> Not even to prevent bowing? Blasphemy! ;-)
>
There will be a stick frame under each shelf. Its pretty darn fast. Stick
frames, 3/4 ply vertical, 1/2 ply shelves. One gun full of framing nails,
and one gun full of sheeting nails. Last one I did was 26' long and 8' high
with five shelves including the base. Took one day including cutting start
to finish with only one gun constantly swapping nails. Each bay was 36"
between the verticals. Helper was chopping frames while I assembled. I was
amazed at how strong it came out. We climbed all over them as we built them
section by section.
On 1/3/17 11:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 at 12:31:32 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> "Sonny" wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 6:45:24 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 15:57:47 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I guess that it all depends on just how many cuts you need to make. If
>>>> it were me, I think that the first thing I'd consider would be a
>>>> straight 8' length of 1x - carefully measure, clamp it at both ends and
>>>> make your rip cut.
>>>
>>> Where do you find a piece of 1x that's that straight?
>>
>> Another option, as I did, would be to purchase a 20' length of 1/2 X 2
>> aluminum bar - $60, I think it was. Have the metal shop cut it, for 8' and
>> 12' straight edges. Doesn't rust, warp, rot, etc.
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/15361416961/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> Sonny
>>
>> *********
>>
>> Probably what I'll wind up doing... more or less. I buy aluminum bar stock
>> all the time for my mold making business. Probably have a dozen pieces long
>> enough on the rack right now.
>
> Of course, using a straightedge doesn't eliminate the problem of a
> sheet that isn't square to start with. Setting the straightedge based
> on measurements from the un-square edge will result in an un-square piece.
> If that isn't caught before the first cut is made, all further cuts will
> be off also.
>
Running the Kreg along a bad edge will do the same.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 14:19:25 -0700
"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote:
> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
material up to 24 inch wide so not too good for full sheets
On Mon, 2 Jan 2017 14:19:25 -0700
"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote:
> The blue stuff looks like plastic. How is that holding up?
looks like anything blue on kreg stuff is plastic
at least the ones i looked at