Yep. No connection.
"Juergen Hannappel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Juergen Hannappel <[email protected]> writes:
>
>
> [...]
>
> >> "Woodpecker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >>> I am building a workbench and intend to flatten the top by hand. I
have a
> >
> > Why not use tha famous pattern lathe? If it's such a universal
>
> ... sorry, probably wrong Woodpecker...
>
> --
Woodpecker wrote:
> I am building a workbench and intend to flatten the top by hand. I have a
> Stanley #5. Will that get the job done (seems like a pretty long plane) or
> would it be worth it to hustle over to Ebay and start bidding on a #6 or
> #7??
You have to get a #7, probably a #6 and a #8 as well! <BSEG> What an
opport, I mean necessity for a new tool. Really, a #5 won't flatten it
very well, it's too short. A #7 is ALOT longer and will flatten much
better, a #8 is best, but unless you are serious about beinga galoot and
are fairly big, it's a heavy plane and hard to push after a while.
My two cents,
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
Greetings and Salutations...
On 18 Jan 2004 14:47:53 -0800, [email protected] (Alan W)
wrote:
>"Woodpecker" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> I am building a workbench and intend to flatten the top by hand. I have a
>> Stanley #5. Will that get the job done (seems like a pretty long plane) or
>> would it be worth it to hustle over to Ebay and start bidding on a #6 or
>> #7??
>>
>> Thanks for the advice.
>> Woodpecker
>
>
>Another option is to see if you have a cabinet shop around and see
>what they would charge you to run through their large sander.
>
>Alan
This is a good suggestion. In MOST cases it will be $20 or
less. While I like using a good plane as well as the next Neander,
THis is one of those times when it makes a lot of sense to me to
let the machines do it.
Unless...of course...one's hobby is hand-planing a bench.
In that case, have at it.
As for the length of the plane...Got to remember that
the LONGER the plane the flatter a surface one will get.
Regards
Dave Mundt
In rec.woodworking
[email protected] (Alan W) wrote:
>Another option is to see if you have a cabinet shop around and see
>what they would charge you to run through their large sander.
Just a word of warning. I did that this weekend. My workbench is made
from Southern Yellow Pine and a few of the boards were a bit sappy. This
clogged the sanding drum and made my buddy a bit unhappy :) We changed the
paper aftwerwards, it wouldn't clean up.
"Alan W" <[email protected]>
wrote in message
>
> Another option is to see if you have a
cabinet shop around and see
> what they would charge you to run
through their large sander.
>
> Alan
This is pretty good advice, but you
should take into consideration that this
is likely to leave sanding grit embedded
in your top, which is something you may
not want. Among other potential
problems, if you ever wanted to tune the
top up with a plane in the future, that
grit wouldn't be good for the sole or
the edge of the iron.
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The degree of flatness needed of your
work surface depends on the work you're
going to do on it. The bench top surface
is your reference. If your work requires
no more accuracy than what is provided
by your #5, then your reference surface
probably doesn't require more accuracy
than your #5 will provide. Consider that
it would be fine to use a jack on work
referenced to a surface flattened with a
joiner, but when using a joiner on work
referenced to a surface flattened with a
jack, the accuracy of your work is going
to be limited by the accuracy of your
reference surface. Most folks that put a
lot of sweat into hand planing will set
up a jack with a significant crown to
the place and set it to take a
relatively deep cut. This results in a
surface that is not only marginal in its
flatness, but is also not very smooth.
You can improve the flatness and
smoothness by grinding the iron
relatively flat and using a fine set.
However, my preferred method would be to
use the jack to rough the surface out
and then use a finely set joiner to do
the flattening. You can then tune up the
surface with a smoother or scraper. Good
luck and have fun.
"Woodpecker" <[email protected]>
wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am building a workbench and intend
to flatten the top by hand. I have a
> Stanley #5. Will that get the job done
(seems like a pretty long plane) or
> would it be worth it to hustle over to
Ebay and start bidding on a #6 or
> #7??
>
> Thanks for the advice.
> Woodpecker
>
>
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
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On 18 Jan 2004 18:19:30 -0800, [email protected] (Dick Durbin) wrote:
>My No. 6 gets more use than almost any plane I have.
Mine doesn't, but it gets more use than my #7. I often joint short
things, rarely a long tabletop though. And I can't lift the #8, so I
barely use it.
--
Information wants to be free.
Data fancies being tied up and spanked by Troi.
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 14:57:14 -0500, "Woodpecker"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >would it be worth it to hustle over to Ebay and start bidding on a #6 or
> >#7??
>
> Yes. No-one wants #6s, so they're pretty cheap and a #7 is useful for
> when you finally want a long jointer.
My No. 6 gets more use than almost any plane I have. Patrick Leach
gives them a bad rap on his Web site but I find mine very useful.
Paid $15 for it in Mount Dora, Florida.
Dick Durbin
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> >My No. 6 gets more use than almost any plane I have. Patrick Leach
> >gives them a bad rap on his Web site but I find mine very useful.
> >Paid $15 for it in Mount Dora, Florida.
>
> Do you use it for curls, or woodworking, Dick? ;)
> ^^^^^
My woodworking and home repairs constitute most of my daily exercise.
I may as well kill two birds with one stone. Actually, I am more
likely to pull out the No. 6 to straighten an edge that doesn't need
to be jointed, just cleaned up. For instance, I was installing some
beaded plywood on a wall and had to make an initial cut with a
circular saw. The freshly cut edge was cleaned up using Satan's plane
rather than the No. 7.
Dick "biceps" Durbin
the longer the better, though I have read where people use a smoothing plane
which is shorter than the #5
--
http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
"Woodpecker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am building a workbench and intend to flatten the top by hand. I have a
> Stanley #5. Will that get the job done (seems like a pretty long plane) or
> would it be worth it to hustle over to Ebay and start bidding on a #6 or
> #7??
>
> Thanks for the advice.
> Woodpecker
>
>
Larry Jaques wrote:
> Ditto here, but it's not working as well as I'd hoped. I'm still a
> good 20lbs overweight.
Harkens back to my old Roya1 days. I read that as "201" pounds, and was
thinking Monsewer Jock-kwez cou1d do with fewer ho hos.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
On 18 Jan 2004 18:19:30 -0800, [email protected] (Dick Durbin) brought
forth from the murky depths:
>Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 14:57:14 -0500, "Woodpecker"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >would it be worth it to hustle over to Ebay and start bidding on a #6 or
>> >#7??
>>
>> Yes. No-one wants #6s, so they're pretty cheap and a #7 is useful for
>> when you finally want a long jointer.
>
>My No. 6 gets more use than almost any plane I have. Patrick Leach
>gives them a bad rap on his Web site but I find mine very useful.
>Paid $15 for it in Mount Dora, Florida.
Do you use it for curls, or woodworking, Dick? ;)
^^^^^
My $15 #60-1/2 (with Hock blade installed + the orig iron) is
my most-used plane, followed by the Knight smoother.
-
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
[email protected] (Dick Durbin) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 14:57:14 -0500, "Woodpecker"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >would it be worth it to hustle over to Ebay and start bidding on a #6 or
> > >#7??
> >
> > Yes. No-one wants #6s, so they're pretty cheap and a #7 is useful for
> > when you finally want a long jointer.
>
> My No. 6 gets more use than almost any plane I have.
Regardless of utility, they do seem to be priced pretty low relative to #7s.
> Patrick Leach
> gives them a bad rap on his Web site but I find mine very useful.
> Paid $15 for it in Mount Dora, Florida.
Case and point. :-)
Cheers,
Mike
"Woodpecker" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I am building a workbench and intend to flatten the top by hand. I have a
> Stanley #5. Will that get the job done (seems like a pretty long plane) or
> would it be worth it to hustle over to Ebay and start bidding on a #6 or
> #7??
>
> Thanks for the advice.
> Woodpecker
Another option is to see if you have a cabinet shop around and see
what they would charge you to run through their large sander.
Alan
> My $15 #60-1/2 (with Hock blade installed + the orig iron) is
> my most-used plane, followed by the Knight smoother.
>
Do tell more, I'm trying to pick up a 60 1/2 now off Ebay for the Hock
Iron I won off Ebay 2 weeks ago. I was surprised at how usefull a
even newer junk low angle (20) block plan was with a sharp iron. It
did not cause tearout on the purpleheart I was working on like the #4
and #5 did.
Woodpecker wrote:
> I am building a workbench and intend to flatten the top by hand. I have a
> Stanley #5. Will that get the job done (seems like a pretty long plane) or
> would it be worth it to hustle over to Ebay and start bidding on a #6 or
> #7??
#8, #7, #6, #5, #4, in that order... :)
I flattened mine with a #4 because it was the only plane I had. It's
probably not dead flat, but it's close enough.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
On 20 Jan 2004 04:18:51 -0800, [email protected] (Dick Durbin) brought
forth from the murky depths:
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
>> Do you use it for curls, or woodworking, Dick? ;)
>> ^^^^^
>My woodworking and home repairs constitute most of my daily exercise.
>I may as well kill two birds with one stone.
Ditto here, but it's not working as well as I'd hoped. I'm still a
good 20lbs overweight.
>Dick "biceps" Durbin
<vbg>
-
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 16:59:39 -0500, Silvan
<[email protected]> brought forth from the murky depths:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>> Ditto here, but it's not working as well as I'd hoped. I'm still a
>> good 20lbs overweight.
>
>Harkens back to my old Roya1 days. I read that as "201" pounds, and was
>thinking Monsewer Jock-kwez cou1d do with fewer ho hos.
That's "Jake's" to you, bubba. And when Tom called, he asked
for "C-less" (out of the blue and with that confounded Eastern
accent) so I told him he had a wrong number and _almost_ hung
up on him. I thought it was some idjut wanting a boat shop or
sumpin'. 'Sea' what?
--== May The Angst Be With You! ==--
-Yoda, on a bad day
--
http://diversify.com Ending Your Web Page Angst.
the #7 sounds good, but a thicknessing sander sounds better.
$1 a minute at my lumber supplier. I rarely spend more than $5 at any
one time. Get it close when you glue up, use the sander to clean it
up.
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 14:57:14 -0500, "Woodpecker"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I am building a workbench and intend to flatten the top by hand. I have a
>Stanley #5. Will that get the job done (seems like a pretty long plane) or
>would it be worth it to hustle over to Ebay and start bidding on a #6 or
>#7??
>
>Thanks for the advice.
>Woodpecker
>
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 14:57:14 -0500, "Woodpecker"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>would it be worth it to hustle over to Ebay and start bidding on a #6 or
>#7??
Yes. No-one wants #6s, so they're pretty cheap and a #7 is useful for
when you finally want a long jointer.
If you've made the top before it arrives, use the #5 anyway.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
"Knucklehead" <[email protected]> writes:
> the longer the better, though I have read where people use a smoothing plane
> which is shorter than the #5
As someone said sometime ago: If viewed in the spatial frequency
domain planing is a low pass operation with the cut-off frequency
being the inverse of the plane length (times some factor). In other
words: With a short plane you leave all "waves" with a wavelength
longer than (twice) the plane length in, because th plane will follow
those wafes rather than smooth them out.
[...]
> "Woodpecker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I am building a workbench and intend to flatten the top by hand. I have a
Why not use tha famous pattern lathe? If it's such a universal
hypertool you could make workbenches by the dozen without having to
lift a finger.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
Juergen Hannappel <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
>> "Woodpecker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I am building a workbench and intend to flatten the top by hand. I have a
>
> Why not use tha famous pattern lathe? If it's such a universal
... sorry, probably wrong Woodpecker...
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23