Hi All.
For a lack of band saw I am faced with problem of resawing stock
by hand. Planing with a scrab plane 3/4" stock down to 1/4" really
seems like a waste of wood. A while ago I saw somewhere picture
showing something which looked like resawing by hand. Does anyone
tried something like that? What saw wood be appropriate? Technique?
What about Japanese saws?
Thanks,
Dmitri.
"Wood Butcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<TK0Nb.47813$na.37803@attbi_s04>...
> Underhill did this on one of his past shows. If I remember right
> the process is as follows:
> 1. Scribe a line around all 4 edges.
> 2. Place the board in the vise at about a 45° angle.
> 3. Hold a rip saw horizontally and start to cut at the upper corner
> (split the scribed line). The end grain should be away from you.
> 4. Continue cutting until the saw gets to the adjacent corner.
> 5. Flip the board in the vise so that the adjacent corner is now upper most.
> 6. Continue cutting until the saw gets to the previous cut on the
> opposite side.
> 7. Repeat steps 5&6 until you're done.
That's the way I do it with one exception. I don't trust myself to
perfectly split the line, so I start off by scribing from either face,
leaving a "safe zone" of maybe 1/8" to 3/16". That way when I saw, I
simply have to stay between the two scribe marks, and when I'm done, I
already have the pieces marked for final planing to thickness.
The rest of your description matches the way I do it exactly. I
think of it like cutting a very long tenon. Angle, saw, reverse
piece, saw, place piece upright and join the two cuts. Repeat as
necessary.
And never, never, never make a sawcut that you cannot see. I.e.,
let your previous cut guide you when it's on the back edge of the
piece, and flip the board before you are cutting past the depth of
that previous cut. It means you have to flip the piece quite often,
but that's better than screwing up a nice piece of wood because you
got in a hurry and had the saw wander when you made a blind sawcut.
DAMHIKT.
Also, I tried making a frame re-saw, but either because of my
technique or some problem with the way I built the thing, it tracks
horribly. One of these days I'll figure out what's wrong with it, but
in the meantime I just use an old ripsaw or one of those newish
Stanley "sharksaw" things with the induction-hardened teeth and
pseudo-Japanese tooth configuration. It works surprisingly well, and
it's so cheap that I don't worry about using it on logs and such. (In
fact, I keep one for log work and one for finer stuff.)
Chuck Vance
Juergen Hannappel <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> [email protected] (Conan the Librarian) writes:
>
> > Also, I tried making a frame re-saw, but either because of my
> > technique or some problem with the way I built the thing, it tracks
> > horribly.
>
> My selfmade frame re-saw has the very same problem, and i attribute it
> to insufficient blade mountin, allowing the blade to twist slightly.
> Once i figure out a way to improve that i will do so and report the
> results here...
Please do. I've been looking at how the blade is fixed and the
tensioning of the blade as potential problems on mine. I am afraid my
stock is not quite thick enough, as when I tension the blade to the
point where it gives off a high-pitched "plink" rather than a dull
sound, the frame crosspieces flex noticeably.
How did you go about fixing the blade on yours? On the top I used
a threaded rod with a nut on the exposed end and a slot cut for the
blade to sit in. The blade is then pinned so it rests in a small slot
in the frame while the pin is recessed into the frame. The other end
is simply a hex bolt mortised into the frame so it doesn't twist, and
the blade is again pinned into a slot cut into the end of the bolt.
> Another idea i am contemplating is a resaw fence that
> would be mounted on the blade of the frame saw.
It thought seriously about doing that, but had some concerns about
the fence causing problems with binding rather than actually helping.
Chuck Vance
I've got a 600 mm bow saw (ECE brand) with a set of Japanese style blades
(rip and crosscut). The rip blade is 1-1/2 in wide and the saw tracks
beautifully. I haven't tried re-sawing anything wide yet, but I'm convinced
it'll work well.
-JBB
"Dmitri" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All.
>
> For a lack of band saw I am faced with problem of resawing stock
> by hand. Planing with a scrab plane 3/4" stock down to 1/4" really
> seems like a waste of wood. A while ago I saw somewhere picture
> showing something which looked like resawing by hand. Does anyone
> tried something like that? What saw wood be appropriate? Technique?
> What about Japanese saws?
>
> Thanks,
> Dmitri.
>
Underhill did this on one of his past shows. If I remember right
the process is as follows:
1. Scribe a line around all 4 edges.
2. Place the board in the vise at about a 45° angle.
3. Hold a rip saw horizontally and start to cut at the upper corner
(split the scribed line). The end grain should be away from you.
4. Continue cutting until the saw gets to the adjacent corner.
5. Flip the board in the vise so that the adjacent corner is now upper most.
6. Continue cutting until the saw gets to the previous cut on the
opposite side.
7. Repeat steps 5&6 until you're done.
Art
"Dmitri" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All.
>
> For a lack of band saw I am faced with problem of resawing stock
> by hand. Planing with a scrab plane 3/4" stock down to 1/4" really
> seems like a waste of wood. A while ago I saw somewhere picture
> showing something which looked like resawing by hand. Does anyone
> tried something like that? What saw wood be appropriate? Technique?
> What about Japanese saws?
>
> Thanks,
> Dmitri.
>
B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote:
> On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 16:59:21 -0800, Dmitri <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>Hi All.
>>
>>For a lack of band saw I am faced with problem of resawing stock
>>by hand.
>
>
> Got a table saw?
>
> Using the rip fence, cut _almost_ through from one edge. Flip the
> board, and do it again, leaving a 1/4-1/2" piece holding the two
> halves together. Rip the leftover section with the hand saw and
> you're good to go.
>
> DO NOT try to cut all the way through with the table saw, as things
> will get ugly during the second cut.
>
> Barry
Thanks for a good tip.
--
Dmitri
---------------
"Sages do not grieve for the living nor the dead." - Bhagavatgita.
one of the woodworking magazines had this a few years ago. They made the
saw by building a rectangular frame about 4 feet long and stretching a
section of a bandsaw down the middle of the long. In use they cut part way
through the board on each edge (maybe two inches) using a table saw and then
used their "bow" saw to saw through the rest of the board.
"Dmitri" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All.
>
> For a lack of band saw I am faced with problem of resawing stock
> by hand. Planing with a scrab plane 3/4" stock down to 1/4" really
> seems like a waste of wood. A while ago I saw somewhere picture
> showing something which looked like resawing by hand. Does anyone
> tried something like that? What saw wood be appropriate? Technique?
> What about Japanese saws?
>
> Thanks,
> Dmitri.
>
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 16:59:21 -0800, Dmitri <[email protected]>
wrote:
>For a lack of band saw I am faced with problem of resawing stock
>by hand.
I sometimes do this, mainly when making saya (scabbards) for Japanese
swords, because it's traditional to do so. I'm usually working in
lime, instead of Japanese timbers that are hard to obtain in a useful
size.
You need the right saw. I've a bunch of ryoba, only one tracks well
enough for a 3' long resaw.
I support the timber on two low horses, one of which is broad enough
for me to stand on. I work barefoot and clamp the timber down with
both big toes.
Then I saw. Working towards myself, I only saw half-a-dozen strokes
before stopping and turning the board over.
Some time about a week later, I have a beautiful resaw.
--
Do whales have krillfiles ?
In article <[email protected]>,
Dmitri <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi All.
>
>For a lack of band saw I am faced with problem of resawing stock
>by hand. Planing with a scrab plane 3/4" stock down to 1/4" really
>seems like a waste of wood. A while ago I saw somewhere picture
>showing something which looked like resawing by hand. Does anyone
>tried something like that? What saw wood be appropriate? Technique?
>What about Japanese saws?
>
>Thanks,
>Dmitri.
>
I wouldn't want to do it often, but also having no bandsaw, what I've
done is cut a kerf on the top & bottom with the tablesaw, then saw out
the remaining wood with a hand rip saw. The fence-guided kerfs left by
the tablesaw blade will keep your hand saw from wandering. I have a
good old Disston rip saw. The model # escapes me now but they're
generally not too hard to find at yard sales or flea markets. Get it
sharpened or learn to sharpen it yourself. It is a bit of work but
it's surprising how fast it goes with a good hand saw. I use a hand
plane to get rid of the raised portion of the surface that was cut
by hand; the hand saw has a much narrower kerf than the table saw.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 16:59:21 -0800, Dmitri <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi All.
>
>For a lack of band saw I am faced with problem of resawing stock
>by hand.
Got a table saw?
Using the rip fence, cut _almost_ through from one edge. Flip the
board, and do it again, leaving a 1/4-1/2" piece holding the two
halves together. Rip the leftover section with the hand saw and
you're good to go.
DO NOT try to cut all the way through with the table saw, as things
will get ugly during the second cut.
Barry
[email protected] (Conan the Librarian) writes:
[...]
>
> Also, I tried making a frame re-saw, but either because of my
> technique or some problem with the way I built the thing, it tracks
> horribly. One of these days I'll figure out what's wrong with it, but
My selfmade frame re-saw has the very same problem, and i attribute it
to insufficient blade mountin, allowing the blade to twist slightly.
Once i figure out a way to improve that i will do so and report the
results here... Another idea i am contemplating is a resaw fence that
would be mounted on the blade of the frame saw.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23