Greetings,
I am planning to make a simple coat rack. I intend to make it out of black
walnut and turn the pegs for hanging coats myself. This is going to be my
first lathe project.
I don't want to do anything unusual with the pegs. Could I make them out of
3/4" stock? is black walnut o.k. for turning? how much longer than the
finished peg should I cut them?
I am also wondering the best way to attach them. They will be attached to a
board with a nice edge profile which will be mounted to the wall. Should I
just tap them in (to holes drilled in back piece) with some wood glue? or
maybe reinforce them with small screws from the back?
One last question. How would you attach this piece to the wall? I am
thinking that perhaps I will drill countersunk holes in the back piece and
screw it into the studs, then cap the holes with little raised and rounded
plugs. My only reservation is that it might be difficult to remove the
plugs without damaging the wood if I want to move the coat rack and I dont
know whether such plugs would be too difficult to make given their size.
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Joseph
>How would you attach this piece to the wall?
I'm not a turner, so I won't speak to that, other than maybe practice
with a few and see how they turn out. But as far as attaching it to
the wall in a secure but removeable manner, you could consider using a
keyhole cutout shape like this:
http://www.maxisminis.com/Zoom/shadowbox/3824keyhole.JPG
made with a keyhole router bit like this:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=30113&cat=1,46168,46176
(that's leevalley.com item number 16J70.01 if the link doesn't work)
Or alternatively, drill a hole in the back and then attach a keyhole
fitting:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=341
(that's Rockler.com item number 28837)
Rockler also has a couple other options for attaching things to walls
like the "Extra thin flush mounts".
Good luck,
Andy
> I don't want to do anything unusual with the pegs. Could I make them out
of
> 3/4" stock?
Yes.
is black walnut o.k. for turning?
Yes, but sand thoroughly or tool maks will br pronounced when you add
finish. Plan to make a few extra pegs and toss the ones that didn't come out
so well.
> how much longer than the
> finished peg should I cut them?
Here's the fancy way:
* Make the tennon 1" long. Initially it will protrude 1/4" past the back of
the workpiece
* Drill all the eay through your 3/4" stock.
* Make a handsaw or bandsaw (narrow) kerf anout 7/8" deep, at the end of the
tennon.
* Cut a wedge of wood a little wider than your kerf
* Insert tennon with glue into hole.
* Put a little glue on your wedge and pound it in the kerf (effeectively
spreading the back of your tennon).
* Use a hand saw to trim the protruding tennon (you can leave a little bit)
* Trim flush with a sharp chisel
Should I just tap them in (to holes drilled in back piece) with some wood
glue?
You could.
> maybe reinforce them with small screws from the back?
No, because screwing into endgrain is not reccomneded. IMO you would benefit
more from a deeper (though) mortise.
> One last question. How would you attach this piece to the wall? I am
> thinking that perhaps I will drill countersunk holes in the back piece
and
> screw it into the studs, then cap the holes with little raised and rounded
> plugs.
IMO it would look better of you could find some mounting hardware that can
be buried in the back of this thing.
On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 08:24:01 -0500, "Joseph Handy"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I am planning to make a simple coat rack. I intend to make it out of black
>walnut and turn the pegs for hanging coats myself. This is going to be my
>first lathe project.
Google [shaker coat rack]:
http://www.minwax.com/build/novice/shaker-coatrack/