I noticed that I must have gotten some glue on a piece of wood I'm finishing since it doesn't take stain in the form of
a drip run...
Is there any way to fix this besides sanding it all again?
Is there a way to prevent this? If I do notice some glue on a good surface, how should I take care of it? I've been
using a wet rag... does that get it all?
I use regular white or yellow wood glue.
Thanks
In article <[email protected]>, Bob Flint
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I noticed that I must have gotten some glue on a piece of wood I'm finishing
> since it doesn't take stain in the form of
> a drip run...
>
> Is there any way to fix this besides sanding it all again?
I doubt it.
> Is there a way to prevent this? If I do notice some glue on a good surface,
> how should I take care of it? I've been
> using a wet rag... does that get it all?
Using a wet rag will smear the glue into the wood. Let it dry for a
bit, then lift it with a sharp chisel, and scrape or sand after it's
up.
djb
--
Is it time to change my sig line yet?
Bob Flint wrote:
>
> I noticed that I must have gotten some glue on a piece of wood I'm finishing since it doesn't take stain in the form of
> a drip run...
>
> Is there any way to fix this besides sanding it all again?
>
> Is there a way to prevent this? If I do notice some glue on a good surface, how should I take care of it? I've been
> using a wet rag... does that get it all?
>
> I use regular white or yellow wood glue.
>
> Thanks
TiteBond II yields a nice dark salmon color when shellac is
applied over even a hint of it. I hate that.
A solution Michael Fortune uses is a product called Waxalit,
a wax used on production woodworking machine working
surfaces to reduce friction. Small amount applied with
a finger tip or Q-tip where you don't want glue squeeze
out keeps the glue from sticking to the wood. A little
alcohol on a paper towel or Q-tip takes it off and doesn't
affect later finish. He found this stuff was the solution
to hours and hours of glue removal on Windsor chairs.
charlie b
keeping it sopping wet also gives the water a chance to enter the joint and
swell it or dilute the glue.
--
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After years of doing this, I pay careful attention to glue squeeze out if
it
> is going to be in an area that I don't want to see it as in your case. I
> always keep an almost dripping wet paper towel handy while I do my glue
ups.
> If the glue becomes a problem I wipe it up with that wet towel and rewipe
3
> or 4 times more being careful to turn the rag after each wipe to prevent
> reapplying glue that was wiped up with the rag. Flooding the area helps
to
> keep the glue from seeping down into the grain on woods like oak.
>
> Prevention steps can be putting down masking tape to cover the vulnerable
> area. The problem with this is that if glue seeps under the tape it
becomes
> really tough to remove after the glue cures. Some prescribe to letting
the
> glue set a bit and removing with a stiff scraper or credit card. I don't
in
> particular care for this method as traces of the glue are usually left
> behind.
>
> After the fact, if I find a glue drip I use a scraper or chisel to
"Scrape"
> the glue away from the spot and retouch with stain. I prefer not to sand
> the area and restain as the spot your are repairing becomes larger and
more
> noticeable. Scrape only the area that the glue is covering and you will
> have a smaller repair to make.
>
>
>
Get the Fine Woodworking Dec 03 issue. There's an article on "Touching up
defects and mistakes".
"Bob Flint" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I noticed that I must have gotten some glue on a piece of wood I'm
finishing since it doesn't take stain in the form of
> a drip run...
>
> Is there any way to fix this besides sanding it all again?
>
> Is there a way to prevent this? If I do notice some glue on a good
surface, how should I take care of it? I've been
> using a wet rag... does that get it all?
>
> I use regular white or yellow wood glue.
>
> Thanks
>
After years of doing this, I pay careful attention to glue squeeze out if it
is going to be in an area that I don't want to see it as in your case. I
always keep an almost dripping wet paper towel handy while I do my glue ups.
If the glue becomes a problem I wipe it up with that wet towel and rewipe 3
or 4 times more being careful to turn the rag after each wipe to prevent
reapplying glue that was wiped up with the rag. Flooding the area helps to
keep the glue from seeping down into the grain on woods like oak.
Prevention steps can be putting down masking tape to cover the vulnerable
area. The problem with this is that if glue seeps under the tape it becomes
really tough to remove after the glue cures. Some prescribe to letting the
glue set a bit and removing with a stiff scraper or credit card. I don't in
particular care for this method as traces of the glue are usually left
behind.
After the fact, if I find a glue drip I use a scraper or chisel to "Scrape"
the glue away from the spot and retouch with stain. I prefer not to sand
the area and restain as the spot your are repairing becomes larger and more
noticeable. Scrape only the area that the glue is covering and you will
have a smaller repair to make.
"Bob Flint" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I noticed that I must have gotten some glue on a piece of wood I'm
finishing since it doesn't take stain in the form of
> a drip run...
>
> Is there any way to fix this besides sanding it all again?
>
> Is there a way to prevent this? If I do notice some glue on a good
surface, how should I take care of it? I've been
> using a wet rag... does that get it all?
>
> I use regular white or yellow wood glue.
>
I have tried finishing the parts before assembly. A little glue on
afterwards isn't a big deal.
Naturally, this is only useful in some circumstances.