I have completed the pieces that make up the desktop for a corner computer
desk and am about to laminate them with Formica. Having never applied
laminate before, is it necessary to apply two coats of contact cement to the
MDF surface, one acting as a sealer? I am using a cement that is NOT
water-based as some have suggested. Also there are varying opinions as to
what to use to apply the cement, brush or roller, and is it wise to apply it
in one direction only? Another question regards the ends that will we
butted together. They fit quite nicely now and I'm afraid if I try to seal
the ends with polyurethane the fit will not be close. Should I leave the
butted ends bare then? I am planning a 3/4" oak trim on all other exposed
ends and I have a Kreg pocket hole fixture but no biscuit cutters. Is MDF
strong enough to accept pocket holes to secure the oak trim? Also in
trimming the Formica with a flush trim bit do the same rules apply as to the
direction to move the router as I am worried about the brittle edges
flaking? My router has variable speed 10,000 - 24,000 rpm so what would be
an appropriate setting? Your input would be much appreciated.
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 09:07:49 -0700, "James Ruetenik"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have completed the pieces that make up the desktop for a corner computer
>desk and am about to laminate them with Formica. Having never applied
>laminate before, is it necessary to apply two coats of contact cement to the
>MDF surface, one acting as a sealer?
sometimes. read the directions on the can...
> I am using a cement that is NOT
>water-based as some have suggested. Also there are varying opinions as to
>what to use to apply the cement, brush or roller, and is it wise to apply it
>in one direction only? Another question regards the ends that will we
>butted together. They fit quite nicely now and I'm afraid if I try to seal
>the ends with polyurethane the fit will not be close. Should I leave the
>butted ends bare then?
try thinning the poly.
> I am planning a 3/4" oak trim on all other exposed
>ends and I have a Kreg pocket hole fixture but no biscuit cutters. Is MDF
>strong enough to accept pocket holes to secure the oak trim?
probably marginal. do a test piece with some scrap and try the
breaking strength. probably the pocket hole will tear off when it does
fail.
> Also in
>trimming the Formica with a flush trim bit do the same rules apply as to the
>direction to move the router as I am worried about the brittle edges
>flaking?
I feed the router in the direction that pulls the bit tight to the
face of the work.
> My router has variable speed 10,000 - 24,000 rpm so what would be
>an appropriate setting?
maximum RPM and a light touch.
> Your input would be much appreciated.
>
hope it helps....
Bridger
"James Ruetenik" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:qDzMb.1$bg1.0@fed1read05...
> I have completed the pieces that make up the desktop for a corner computer
> desk and am about to laminate them with Formica. Having never applied
> laminate before, is it necessary to apply two coats of contact cement to
the
> MDF surface, one acting as a sealer? I am using a cement that is NOT
> water-based as some have suggested. Also there are varying opinions as to
> what to use to apply the cement, brush or roller, and is it wise to apply
it
> in one direction only? Another question regards the ends that will we
> butted together. They fit quite nicely now and I'm afraid if I try to seal
> the ends with polyurethane the fit will not be close. Should I leave the
> butted ends bare then? I am planning a 3/4" oak trim on all other exposed
> ends and I have a Kreg pocket hole fixture but no biscuit cutters. Is MDF
> strong enough to accept pocket holes to secure the oak trim? Also in
> trimming the Formica with a flush trim bit do the same rules apply as to
the
> direction to move the router as I am worried about the brittle edges
> flaking? My router has variable speed 10,000 - 24,000 rpm so what would be
> an appropriate setting? Your input would be much appreciated.
>
>
I vastly prefer the solvent based (flammable) contact adhesive for HPL.
Definitely two coat your MDF and two coat the laminate at least on the
edges.
I use a roller for large flats like your top. The preferred rollerskins are
the woven ones with no loose fibers like
http://www.paintbrushes.com/prfc.htm . One note on these covers - devote a
frame to the cover and hang in your shop when you finish. Next project,
drop it in the adhesive and the solvent will loosen in to a usable state (at
least a year later IME) after a short wait. Keep a throwaway chip brush
handy for drips.
Skip the poly joint sealer - water penetration won't be a factor on a desk.
Use plenty of spacers when you prepare to stick the sheets - you can ruin a
nice fit job in a hurry DAMHIKT.
I like the carbide three flute bearing guided flush trim bits for selfedge
or woodedge where the laminate laps over the wood (as opposed to a raised
wood edge).
I usually use the solid carbide piloted ones where I'm guiding off an
unfinished surface as they "pull" the bit into the work a little less. If
the sheets aren't damaged, you shouldn't expect any shattering or chipping
at the corners. As you trim, relief cut every few feet (and definitely
before the corner) to reduce the scraps weight on the remaining material.
The only "climb" cutting I do is to clean up the second (counterclockwise)
side of the corner, as I don't travel the bit "around" the corner (Mostly
due to the case where selfedge laminate is applied and chamfered already...)
Full speed ahead!
"James Ruetenik" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:qDzMb.1$bg1.0@fed1read05...
: I have completed the pieces that make up the desktop for a corner computer
: desk and am about to laminate them with Formica. Having never applied
: laminate before, is it necessary to apply two coats of contact cement to the
: MDF surface, one acting as a sealer? I am using a cement that is NOT
: water-based as some have suggested. Also there are varying opinions as to
: what to use to apply the cement, brush or roller, and is it wise to apply it
: in one direction only? Another question regards the ends that will we
: butted together. They fit quite nicely now and I'm afraid if I try to seal
: the ends with polyurethane the fit will not be close. Should I leave the
: butted ends bare then? I am planning a 3/4" oak trim on all other exposed
: ends and I have a Kreg pocket hole fixture but no biscuit cutters. Is MDF
: strong enough to accept pocket holes to secure the oak trim? Also in
: trimming the Formica with a flush trim bit do the same rules apply as to the
: direction to move the router as I am worried about the brittle edges
: flaking? My router has variable speed 10,000 - 24,000 rpm so what would be
: an appropriate setting? Your input would be much appreciated.
:
:
Here's a web that give an explanation
http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/formica.html