Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
degrees?
I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how
I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably
be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early
afternoon.
Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with
xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in
cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the
freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is
colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly
at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work
lights at it.
dave
Follow the instructions...celsius or farenheit? And boy, whilst that alcohol
evaporates, it'll get even colder! Tom
>Subject: Surprised at the fine print on
Zinnsers - apply to ZERO degrees.
>From: Bay Area Dave [email protected]
>Date: 11/21/2003 8:01 PM US Mountain Standard Time
>Message-id: <[email protected]>
>
>Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
>finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
>drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
>degrees?
>
>I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how
>I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably
>be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early
>afternoon.
>
>Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with
>xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
>
>How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in
>cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the
>freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is
>colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly
>at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work
>lights at it.
>
>dave
>
Someday, it'll all be over....
Tom states:
>Follow the instructions...celsius or farenheit? And boy, whilst that alcohol
>evaporates, it'll get even colder! Tom
>
> >Subject: Surprised at the fine print
>on
>Zinnsers - apply to ZERO degrees.
Why is that a surprise: in the good old days, alcohol was THE antifreeze for
cars.
Charlie Self
"I am not worried about the deficit. It is big enough to take care of itself. "
Ronald Reagan
Witness any snowmobiler. I had been scraping them up for over eight years
before I had my first snowmobile accident involving sober riders.
"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message > >Why is that a surprise:
in the good old days, alcohol was THE antifreeze for
> >cars.
>
> And for people (think St. Bernard), but it turns out it's bad for you
> because, although it makes you feel warmer, it sends the blood to the
> surface and cools your inner core.
On 22 Nov 2003 10:07:48 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
scribbled
>Tom states:
>
>>Follow the instructions...celsius or farenheit? And boy, whilst that alcohol
>>evaporates, it'll get even colder! Tom
>>
>> >Subject: Surprised at the fine print
>>on
>>Zinnsers - apply to ZERO degrees.
>
>Why is that a surprise: in the good old days, alcohol was THE antifreeze for
>cars.
And for people (think St. Bernard), but it turns out it's bad for you
because, although it makes you feel warmer, it sends the blood to the
surface and cools your inner core. It's also used for lock de-icers,
for those who live in areas where that is needed.
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address
Rich, as I was just telling Skeez, many years ago my garage was a rec
room and an portable 115V heater wouldn't heat up the room enough. I
guess I could look into 220V heaters...I'll check HD today.
dave
RKON wrote:
> Watch out for them fumes. We wouldn't want you to be impaired and write
> something you might get tarballed on ;)
>
> I would pick up a nice little heater capable of warming up your garage.
> Rainy season is just upon you and it would also take the edge off those cool
> damp northern California days during January.
>
> Rich
>
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
>>finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
>>drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
>>degrees?
>>
>>I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how
>>I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably
>>be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early
>>afternoon.
>>
>>Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with
>>xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
>>
>>How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in
>>cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the
>>freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is
>>colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly
>>at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work
>>lights at it.
>>
>>dave
>>
>
>
>
Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
>finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
>drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
>degrees?
I've brushed shellac at 5°C without any problems.
Ken Muldrew
[email protected]
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
I got 4 coats on in 2 days at 65 degrees. I was able to sand at 4 to 4
1/2 hours after each coat. Except for some pinholes in 2 out the 5
pieces, it came out fine.
Tonight I opened up the garage door and sprayed shellac on the drawer
sides. What a pleasant experience instead of that sticky poly floating
around inside the shop with the doors just cracked a smidge to keep the
temp around 65.
dave
JackD wrote:
> I sprayed some a few nights ago.
> Seemed to be fine.
> Do it in the afternoon and it will be dry in the afternoon.
>
> -Jack
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
>>finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
>>drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
>>degrees?
>>
>>I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how
>>I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably
>>be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early
>>afternoon.
>>
>>Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with
>>xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
>>
>>How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in
>>cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the
>>freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is
>>colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly
>>at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work
>>lights at it.
>>
>>dave
>>
>
>
>
Watch out for them fumes. We wouldn't want you to be impaired and write
something you might get tarballed on ;)
I would pick up a nice little heater capable of warming up your garage.
Rainy season is just upon you and it would also take the edge off those cool
damp northern California days during January.
Rich
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
> finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
> drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
> degrees?
>
> I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how
> I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably
> be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early
> afternoon.
>
> Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with
> xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
>
> How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in
> cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the
> freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is
> colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly
> at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work
> lights at it.
>
> dave
>
Trust me. Bay Area Dave KNOWS if ANYONE does.
On Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:48:46 GMT, [email protected] (Ken Muldrew)
wrote:
>Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
>>finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
>>drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
>>degrees?
>
>I've brushed shellac at 5°C without any problems.
>
>Ken Muldrew
>[email protected]
>(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
Did just that the other day and it set off just like normal..
Rob
--
Remove CC for email and please visit our web site:
http://www.robswoodworking.com
"Ken Muldrew" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> I've brushed shellac at 5°C without any problems.
>
> Ken Muldrew
> [email protected]
> (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
I was thinking about that last night and I could be mistaken, but
wouldn't anything that burns fuel leave a ton of moisture in the air?
Many years ago my garage was a rec room and I used a small electric
heater (115V) to take the chill off. That heater drew the maximum amps
allowable on a typical 110 circuit. It didn't do hardly anything even
after running for over an hour, so I don't think an electrical heater
will heat my shop enough to help.
Any suggestions?
dave
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 22 Nov 2003 03:01:00 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
>>finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
>>drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
>>degrees?
>>
>>I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how
>>I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably
>>be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early
>>afternoon.
>>
>>Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with
>>xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
>>
>>How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in
>>cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the
>>freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is
>>colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly
>>at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work
>>lights at it.
>>
>>dave
>
>
> I think you would be much better off if you pick up a cheap space
> heater of one form or another. cold wheather finnishing brings all
> kinds of problems to the table. heat the shop up prior to finnishing
> so that the work is warm also. if you are worried about fire from the
> heater then you can turn it off while you finnish and use a finnish
> that dries fast. after the fumes have dissipated you can fire up the
> heater again. most finnishes need 70 degrees or better.
> skeez
On Sat, 22 Nov 2003 03:01:00 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
>finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
>drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
>degrees?
>
>I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how
>I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably
>be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early
>afternoon.
>
>Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with
>xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
>
>How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in
>cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the
>freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is
>colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly
>at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work
>lights at it.
>
>dave
I think you would be much better off if you pick up a cheap space
heater of one form or another. cold wheather finnishing brings all
kinds of problems to the table. heat the shop up prior to finnishing
so that the work is warm also. if you are worried about fire from the
heater then you can turn it off while you finnish and use a finnish
that dries fast. after the fumes have dissipated you can fire up the
heater again. most finnishes need 70 degrees or better.
skeez
I sprayed some a few nights ago.
Seemed to be fine.
Do it in the afternoon and it will be dry in the afternoon.
-Jack
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
> finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
> drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
> degrees?
>
> I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how
> I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably
> be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early
> afternoon.
>
> Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with
> xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
>
> How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in
> cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the
> freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is
> colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly
> at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work
> lights at it.
>
> dave
>
Those recommendations for temperature on finish-container labels are
there for a reason. In some cases, the finish will never properly cure
if applied when it is too cold. You'll save yourself a lot of grief by
getting your project and its environment up to the proper temperature.
The main problem with heat lamps is hot spots and cold spots. It seem to
me that uneven heating could potentially cause more finishing problems
than an overall cold.
Those electric oil-filled radiators (that look kind of like
old-fashioned steam radiators) appear to be pretty efficient for heating
up a space. SWMBO uses on in her detached art studio. They don't put any
moisture into the air and have no exposed elements, so you don't have to
woory about fumes - except breathing them, of course.
Propane/Butane are the biggest offenders there. Electric puts out the
driest heat I know of. Cost the most too.
On Sat, 22 Nov 2003 16:16:57 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>I was thinking about that last night and I could be mistaken, but
>wouldn't anything that burns fuel leave a ton of moisture in the air?
>Many years ago my garage was a rec room and I used a small electric
>heater (115V) to take the chill off. That heater drew the maximum amps
>allowable on a typical 110 circuit. It didn't do hardly anything even
>after running for over an hour, so I don't think an electrical heater
>will heat my shop enough to help.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>dave
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 22 Nov 2003 03:01:00 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
>>>finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
>>>drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
>>>degrees?
>>>
>>>I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how
>>>I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably
>>>be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early
>>>afternoon.
>>>
>>>Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with
>>>xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
>>>
>>>How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in
>>>cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the
>>>freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is
>>>colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly
>>>at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work
>>>lights at it.
>>>
>>>dave
>>
>>
>> I think you would be much better off if you pick up a cheap space
>> heater of one form or another. cold wheather finnishing brings all
>> kinds of problems to the table. heat the shop up prior to finnishing
>> so that the work is warm also. if you are worried about fire from the
>> heater then you can turn it off while you finnish and use a finnish
>> that dries fast. after the fumes have dissipated you can fire up the
>> heater again. most finnishes need 70 degrees or better.
>> skeez
I just picked up a little Honeywell 1,500W unit with fan, remote, auto
shut off; all for $39.99. the shop temp is up to 64 degrees now so I'm
getting ready to spray the poly in a few minutes. As winter progresses,
if the Honeywell doesn't do the job, I'll get a parabolic reflective
resistance unit and aim it towards drying projects. I'll shut off the
water heater gas and the electrical heaters while spraying, plus prop
the garage door open a bit.
dave
Lawrence A. Ramsey wrote:
> Propane/Butane are the biggest offenders there. Electric puts out the
> driest heat I know of. Cost the most too.
>
>
>
> On Sat, 22 Nov 2003 16:16:57 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I was thinking about that last night and I could be mistaken, but
>>wouldn't anything that burns fuel leave a ton of moisture in the air?
>>Many years ago my garage was a rec room and I used a small electric
>>heater (115V) to take the chill off. That heater drew the maximum amps
>>allowable on a typical 110 circuit. It didn't do hardly anything even
>>after running for over an hour, so I don't think an electrical heater
>>will heat my shop enough to help.
>>
>>Any suggestions?
>>
>>dave
>>
>>[email protected] wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On Sat, 22 Nov 2003 03:01:00 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
>>>>finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
>>>>drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
>>>>degrees?
>>>>
>>>>I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how
>>>>I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably
>>>>be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early
>>>>afternoon.
>>>>
>>>>Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with
>>>>xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
>>>>
>>>>How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in
>>>>cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the
>>>>freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is
>>>>colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly
>>>>at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work
>>>>lights at it.
>>>>
>>>>dave
>>>
>>>
>>>I think you would be much better off if you pick up a cheap space
>>>heater of one form or another. cold wheather finnishing brings all
>>>kinds of problems to the table. heat the shop up prior to finnishing
>>>so that the work is warm also. if you are worried about fire from the
>>>heater then you can turn it off while you finnish and use a finnish
>>>that dries fast. after the fumes have dissipated you can fire up the
>>>heater again. most finnishes need 70 degrees or better.
>>>skeez
>
>
Have you considered a dehumidifier? It adds more heat than the
electricity it consumes. The latent heat of evaporation of water which
make evaporative coolers work, works in reverse in a dehumidifier and
adds heat. And as a bonus you get drier air in your shop.
Art
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I was thinking about that last night and I could be mistaken, but
> wouldn't anything that burns fuel leave a ton of moisture in the air?
> Many years ago my garage was a rec room and I used a small electric
> heater (115V) to take the chill off. That heater drew the maximum amps
> allowable on a typical 110 circuit. It didn't do hardly anything even
> after running for over an hour, so I don't think an electrical heater
> will heat my shop enough to help.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> dave
>
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > On Sat, 22 Nov 2003 03:01:00 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
> >>finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
> >>drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
> >>degrees?
> >>
> >>I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how
> >>I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably
> >>be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early
> >>afternoon.
> >>
> >>Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with
> >>xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
> >>
> >>How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in
> >>cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the
> >>freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is
> >>colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly
> >>at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work
> >>lights at it.
> >>
> >>dave
> >
> >
> > I think you would be much better off if you pick up a cheap space
> > heater of one form or another. cold wheather finnishing brings all
> > kinds of problems to the table. heat the shop up prior to finnishing
> > so that the work is warm also. if you are worried about fire from the
> > heater then you can turn it off while you finnish and use a finnish
> > that dries fast. after the fumes have dissipated you can fire up the
> > heater again. most finnishes need 70 degrees or better.
> > skeez
>
That's interesting! (that dehumidification ADDS heat). I need to check
the local weather info to see what our relative humidity has been.
Usually it's not too high, although we had a spell of unusually high
humidity this summer. thanks.
Today it's 49%. One source showed the average afternoon humidity for
much of the year at 60%.
Another source says our current humidity is 35 %. Yet another lists it
much higher.
dave
Wood Butcher wrote:
> Have you considered a dehumidifier? It adds more heat than the
> electricity it consumes. The latent heat of evaporation of water which
> make evaporative coolers work, works in reverse in a dehumidifier and
> adds heat. And as a bonus you get drier air in your shop.
>
> Art
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I was thinking about that last night and I could be mistaken, but
>>wouldn't anything that burns fuel leave a ton of moisture in the air?
>>Many years ago my garage was a rec room and I used a small electric
>>heater (115V) to take the chill off. That heater drew the maximum amps
>>allowable on a typical 110 circuit. It didn't do hardly anything even
>>after running for over an hour, so I don't think an electrical heater
>>will heat my shop enough to help.
>>
>>Any suggestions?
>>
>>dave
>>
>>[email protected] wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On Sat, 22 Nov 2003 03:01:00 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for
>>>>finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and
>>>>drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45
>>>>degrees?
>>>>
>>>>I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how
>>>>I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably
>>>>be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early
>>>>afternoon.
>>>>
>>>>Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with
>>>>xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
>>>>
>>>>How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in
>>>>cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the
>>>>freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is
>>>>colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly
>>>>at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work
>>>>lights at it.
>>>>
>>>>dave
>>>
>>>
>>>I think you would be much better off if you pick up a cheap space
>>>heater of one form or another. cold wheather finnishing brings all
>>>kinds of problems to the table. heat the shop up prior to finnishing
>>>so that the work is warm also. if you are worried about fire from the
>>>heater then you can turn it off while you finnish and use a finnish
>>>that dries fast. after the fumes have dissipated you can fire up the
>>>heater again. most finnishes need 70 degrees or better.
>>>skeez
>>
>
>