JP

Jay Pique

24/02/2004 10:25 AM

Refinishing blues....LABEL THE PARTS!

Uhhhhhh, yeah.

How do you folks go about labeling the various pieces and parts of say
a drop leaf table when it comes in for refinishing? Pencil won't work
as you just sand it off, the finish over it, etc.... I'm thinking
some type of tacked on tag - but even that needs to go on and off
several times througout the process. Any suggestions?

Also, how do you number/letter them so as to get the exact part back
in the right spot?

JP


This topic has 11 replies

JP

Jay Pique

in reply to Jay Pique on 24/02/2004 10:25 AM

24/02/2004 10:16 PM

"A Dubya" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Hey Jay,
>
>There are some great answers to your post here. A cheap and dirty way to
>label and re-lable as you go, is painters tape (doesn't muck up your mill
>work or finished components), and a sharpie (marker). I use painters tape
>on all projects for leg location, drawer component orientation, etc....etc
>almost all components have tape on them when doing a dry run.
>
>Keeping sketches and notes in a log book will help out, not only for this
>project, but maybe future projects as a reference/history and pricing.

I definitely like the digital photo aspect, as the before and after
shots will bring great satisfaction - as well as provide me with some
nice marketing material. I'll probably end up with a combination of
things depending on the project, and my journal grows by leaps and
bounds daily with "better" ways of doing things. There is so much
untapped potential in my shop, it makes me nuts sometimes!
>
>Cheers
>
>aw

You familiar with B Dubya of rec.skiing.alpine? What a dynamic that
they've got going over there!

JP

bb

in reply to Jay Pique on 24/02/2004 10:25 AM

24/02/2004 11:29 AM

For anything I have to take apart and then reassemble, I've started
taking close-up pics with my digital camera, walking a few steps back
into my office (where I also store the camera), then print 'em out at
low res on cheap paper, then writing all over them with directions,
arrows, etc. This was what I did when I undertook an ambitious (for
me)car repair which required significant dismantling of my 97 Audi, to
replace the a/c compressor. Worked well. If you don't have easy
access to a camera and printer might be a pain though.















Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Uhhhhhh, yeah.
>
> How do you folks go about labeling the various pieces and parts of say
> a drop leaf table when it comes in for refinishing? Pencil won't work
> as you just sand it off, the finish over it, etc.... I'm thinking
> some type of tacked on tag - but even that needs to go on and off
> several times througout the process. Any suggestions?
>
> Also, how do you number/letter them so as to get the exact part back
> in the right spot?
>
> JP

MH

"Mike Hide"

in reply to Jay Pique on 24/02/2004 10:25 AM

28/02/2004 10:42 PM

You don't think this might be the onset of alzheimers do you ? mjh


"Young_carpenter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> how about labeling the edge that gets covered?
>
> --
>
>
> "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Uhhhhhh, yeah.
> >
> > How do you folks go about labeling the various pieces and parts of say
> > a drop leaf table when it comes in for refinishing? Pencil won't work
> > as you just sand it off, the finish over it, etc.... I'm thinking
> > some type of tacked on tag - but even that needs to go on and off
> > several times througout the process. Any suggestions?
> >
> > Also, how do you number/letter them so as to get the exact part back
> > in the right spot?
> >
> > JP
>
>
>

YF

"Young_carpenter"

in reply to Jay Pique on 24/02/2004 10:25 AM

24/02/2004 11:49 AM

how about labeling the edge that gets covered?

--


"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Uhhhhhh, yeah.
>
> How do you folks go about labeling the various pieces and parts of say
> a drop leaf table when it comes in for refinishing? Pencil won't work
> as you just sand it off, the finish over it, etc.... I'm thinking
> some type of tacked on tag - but even that needs to go on and off
> several times througout the process. Any suggestions?
>
> Also, how do you number/letter them so as to get the exact part back
> in the right spot?
>
> JP


AD

"A Dubya"

in reply to Jay Pique on 24/02/2004 10:25 AM

25/02/2004 8:54 AM


You familiar with B Dubya of rec.skiing.alpine? What a dynamic that
they've got going over there!

JP


I haven't checked out rec.skiing.alpine, but I do ski, so.....I just might
have to scope it out

Cheers,

aw

Gg

"Gordon"

in reply to Jay Pique on 24/02/2004 10:25 AM

24/02/2004 3:41 PM

Use a very soft artist pencil. Then use alcohol to remove the mark

"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Uhhhhhh, yeah.
>
> How do you folks go about labeling the various pieces and parts of say
> a drop leaf table when it comes in for refinishing? Pencil won't work
> as you just sand it off, the finish over it, etc.... I'm thinking
> some type of tacked on tag - but even that needs to go on and off
> several times througout the process. Any suggestions?
>
> Also, how do you number/letter them so as to get the exact part back
> in the right spot?
>
> JP

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to Jay Pique on 24/02/2004 10:25 AM

24/02/2004 3:33 PM

Keep the pieces in order.

"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Uhhhhhh, yeah.
>
> How do you folks go about labeling the various pieces and parts of say
> a drop leaf table when it comes in for refinishing? Pencil won't work
> as you just sand it off, the finish over it, etc.... I'm thinking
> some type of tacked on tag - but even that needs to go on and off
> several times througout the process. Any suggestions?
>
> Also, how do you number/letter them so as to get the exact part back
> in the right spot?
>
> JP

JB

"Jeremy Brown"

in reply to Jay Pique on 24/02/2004 10:25 AM

24/02/2004 11:26 AM

I find most of the time I can number things in a place that doesn't get
sanded or otherwise obscured before assembly or doesn't matter if it's still
there after assembly, ie end of a tenon, bottom edge of a drawer, bottom
face of the top of a case. I generally have a list on paper of what number
is what part, sometimes with a sketch. All of this is for building, though.
I haven't gotten into refinishing yet. It seems like it should still be
possible, though.


"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Uhhhhhh, yeah.
>
> How do you folks go about labeling the various pieces and parts of say
> a drop leaf table when it comes in for refinishing? Pencil won't work
> as you just sand it off, the finish over it, etc.... I'm thinking
> some type of tacked on tag - but even that needs to go on and off
> several times througout the process. Any suggestions?
>
> Also, how do you number/letter them so as to get the exact part back
> in the right spot?
>
> JP

JW

"Jay Windley"

in reply to Jay Pique on 24/02/2004 10:25 AM

24/02/2004 1:56 PM

A couple of people mentioned taking digital photos. I'm currently restoring
a harpsichord (mechanical/cabinetry repairs plus detailing and refinishing),
and I've taken several hundred pictures of it already.

The small hardware goes into those little sealable plastic bags with a label
written on it in Sharpie, e.g., "music rack guide, left". Those get put in
a drawer so they don't get kicked under the benches.

The keys get numbered left to right on the undersides in pencil and put in
another drawer.

Large hardware (hinges, etc.) I mark using white "gaffer" tape (a strong,
cloth tape with a no-residue adhesive) and a Sharpie. It comes in rolls the
same size as duct tape. You tear off two or three inches, fold it over
itself to leave about 1/4 inch exposed adhesive, and stick it to the part.
Then write on the tape.

The large wooden pieces get marked in pencil where joints or attached
hardware will hide the marking. I never mark in pencil on a visible
surface; the indentation will still be visible even if the graphite wears
off. I photograph every part at several steps during disassembly.

In extreme cases I draw a sketch like an engineering assembly drawing, with
indications of the grain of each piece, so that I can identify it again in
the correct orientation. When all else fails, wood grain is fairly unique.

--Jay

AD

"A Dubya"

in reply to Jay Pique on 24/02/2004 10:25 AM

24/02/2004 3:34 PM

Hey Jay,

There are some great answers to your post here. A cheap and dirty way to
label and re-lable as you go, is painters tape (doesn't muck up your mill
work or finished components), and a sharpie (marker). I use painters tape
on all projects for leg location, drawer component orientation, etc....etc
almost all components have tape on them when doing a dry run.

Keeping sketches and notes in a log book will help out, not only for this
project, but maybe future projects as a reference/history and pricing.


Cheers

aw


wD

[email protected] (Doug Miller)

in reply to Jay Pique on 24/02/2004 10:25 AM

24/02/2004 6:11 PM

In article <[email protected]>, Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote:
>Uhhhhhh, yeah.
>
>How do you folks go about labeling the various pieces and parts of say
>a drop leaf table when it comes in for refinishing? Pencil won't work
>as you just sand it off, the finish over it, etc.... I'm thinking
>some type of tacked on tag - but even that needs to go on and off
>several times througout the process. Any suggestions?

Get a cheap digital camera, and photograph it from every possible angle before
disassembly.
>
>Also, how do you number/letter them so as to get the exact part back
>in the right spot?
>
Put each one in a separate container (small cardboard boxes or what have you)
and label the containers left front blurfl, right rear widget, and so on.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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