I've got a delta 10" arbor saw that has the 30" unifence with rail.
Typically, once the fence is in position, when pushing the handle down
to lock it in place, there is a "normal" resistence and you can "feel"
the fence grip and stay in place.
Now it seems things have loosened up a bit. The handle seems to drop
further, and the resistence and feel of it "locking" in place aren't
there and now it seems to have movement on the other end.
Anyone ever encountered this or have advice on what to do?
Thanks
On Apr 1, 3:56 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> I've got a delta 10" arbor saw that has the 30" unifence with rail.
> Typically, once the fence is in position, when pushing the handle down
> to lock it in place, there is a "normal" resistence and you can "feel"
> the fence grip and stay in place.
>
> Now it seems things have loosened up a bit. The handle seems to drop
> further, and the resistence and feel of it "locking" in place aren't
> there and now it seems to have movement on the other end.
>
> Anyone ever encountered this or have advice on what to do?
>
> Thanks
Thanks for the help. It was a case of hitting the Enter button and
then having it dawn on me that nylon nuts in the front could be
adjusted.
On 1 Apr 2007 13:56:40 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>I've got a delta 10" arbor saw that has the 30" unifence with rail.
>Typically, once the fence is in position, when pushing the handle down
>to lock it in place, there is a "normal" resistence and you can "feel"
>the fence grip and stay in place.
>
>Now it seems things have loosened up a bit. The handle seems to drop
>further, and the resistence and feel of it "locking" in place aren't
>there and now it seems to have movement on the other end.
>
>Anyone ever encountered this or have advice on what to do?
>
>Thanks
The two large nylon nuts on the front of the fence body need to be
adjusted. Adjust them in to adjust clamping pressure and make sure
you maintain the fence to slot alignment as you adjust.
The fit is such that they should not back out on their own. This is
because the nylon nuts have a thread pitch and type that causes
resistance. If your's are excessivly sloppy, you may need to replace
them.
Frank
[email protected] wrote:
> Thanks for the help. It was a case of hitting the Enter button and
> then having it dawn on me that nylon nuts in the front could be
> adjusted.
When you are finished adjusting the clamping action, be sure to check
fence alignment with miter slot.
Lew
Check for wear or distortion of the device that locks the T-square head to
the front rail.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got a delta 10" arbor saw that has the 30" unifence with rail.
> Typically, once the fence is in position, when pushing the handle down
> to lock it in place, there is a "normal" resistence and you can "feel"
> the fence grip and stay in place.
>
> Now it seems things have loosened up a bit. The handle seems to drop
> further, and the resistence and feel of it "locking" in place aren't
> there and now it seems to have movement on the other end.
>
> Anyone ever encountered this or have advice on what to do?
>
> Thanks
>
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 16:33:03 -0500, Frank Boettcher
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 1 Apr 2007 13:56:40 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>I've got a delta 10" arbor saw that has the 30" unifence with rail.
>>Typically, once the fence is in position, when pushing the handle down
>>to lock it in place, there is a "normal" resistence and you can "feel"
>>the fence grip and stay in place.
>>
>>Now it seems things have loosened up a bit. The handle seems to drop
>>further, and the resistence and feel of it "locking" in place aren't
>>there and now it seems to have movement on the other end.
>>
>>Anyone ever encountered this or have advice on what to do?
>>
>>Thanks
>
>
>The two large nylon nuts on the front of the fence body need to be
>adjusted. Adjust them in to adjust clamping pressure and make sure
>you maintain the fence to slot alignment as you adjust.
>
>The fit is such that they should not back out on their own. This is
>because the nylon nuts have a thread pitch and type that causes
>resistance. If your's are excessivly sloppy, you may need to replace
>them.
>
>Frank
"nuts" should be "screws" New style, large hex, use supplied wrench,
old style hex socket.