I have been reading quite a bit on applying shellac. One thing I keep
coming back to is the padding method. I understand you pad on a thin
coat, then when you've reached the end, go back to where you started
and repeat process several times. I haven't worked up the courage to
try it, but I have been brushing with #1.5 with okay results. I
understand once you lay down a layer don't go back and brush anymore
because shellac dries so quickly. My question is why can't I simulate
the padding method with a brush? Not the result, just the method. By
that I mean brush on the first layer, then when I've finished the
surface go back to the beginning and repeat, like padding. I've only
read about brushing on 1 layer then wait.
"Andrew" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have been reading quite a bit on applying shellac. One thing I keep
> coming back to is the padding method. I understand you pad on a thin
> coat, then when you've reached the end, go back to where you started
> and repeat process several times. I haven't worked up the courage to
> try it, but I have been brushing with #1.5 with okay results. I
> understand once you lay down a layer don't go back and brush anymore
> because shellac dries so quickly. My question is why can't I simulate
> the padding method with a brush? Not the result, just the method. By
> that I mean brush on the first layer, then when I've finished the
> surface go back to the beginning and repeat, like padding. I've only
> read about brushing on 1 layer then wait.
>
With the pad you can get rid of marks by adding a lubricant to the pad -
French polishing.
You can also sit at the dining room table or the table in the ready room and
watch TV while you're polishing.
"Andrew" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I can do this at the dining table/watching TV because there is less
> harmful vapors with padding comparaed to brushing? Or what is the
> reason?
>
Start to finish capability before halftime.
Ability to jump up and go on a run by throwing the rag on the table and
putting the tip on a squeeze bottle.
And then there's the beauty and depth of finish ....
"Australopithecus scobis" <[email protected]> wrote in message <snipped
4 bw>
> I've been trying out a yardsale hairdrier to move warm air over the
> shellacked piece. Helps the "flash" in my chilly workshop. Can't get too
> close nor too hot, else the alcohol makes blisters.
>
Patience, grasshopper.
Finishing well can hone the edge of patience.
If the shop is chilly, how about one of the halogen work lights... cheap, a
source of illumination and a chance for a tan! <GD&R>
Tom
"Australopithecus scobis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 02 Feb 2005 11:32:11 -0800, Andrew wrote:
>
> > I can do this at the dining table/watching TV because there is less
> > harmful vapors with padding comparaed to brushing? Or what is the
> > reason?
>
> You want the solvent to go away fast so you can put on another thin coat.
> I don't yet understand why that's better than putting on a thick coat and
> waiting longer. The payoff might be that the drying time increases
> exponentially with thickness of coat.
>
> --
Of course, but padding also consolidates the finish better than laying a
thicker film and hoping consolidation can outrace evaporation.
No sanding between coats, either.
This probably isn't a good idea. What happens is that you release air
and possibly moisture from the pores of the wood and it leaves
bubbles... Don't ask me how I know... but this method has ruined more
than one finish... A couple before my thick head got it clear to NOT DO
THAT ANYMORE. Yes it will work for a quick look as to how the finish
will look, but not on the finished piece itself...
Australopithecus scobis wrote:
> On Wed, 02 Feb 2005 08:32:25 -0800, Bob Bowles wrote:
>
>
>>Padding applies less shellac than brushing so the alcohol has a better
>>chance of flashing off. The key word in your description was "thin"
>>coat.
>
>
> I've been trying out a yardsale hairdrier to move warm air over the
> shellacked piece. Helps the "flash" in my chilly workshop. Can't get too
> close nor too hot, else the alcohol makes blisters.
>
Padding applies less shellac than brushing so the alcohol has a better
chance of flashing off. The key word in your description was "thin"
coat.
On 1 Feb 2005 20:02:16 -0800, "Andrew" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have been reading quite a bit on applying shellac. One thing I keep
>coming back to is the padding method. I understand you pad on a thin
>coat, then when you've reached the end, go back to where you started
>and repeat process several times. I haven't worked up the courage to
>try it, but I have been brushing with #1.5 with okay results. I
>understand once you lay down a layer don't go back and brush anymore
>because shellac dries so quickly. My question is why can't I simulate
>the padding method with a brush? Not the result, just the method. By
>that I mean brush on the first layer, then when I've finished the
>surface go back to the beginning and repeat, like padding. I've only
>read about brushing on 1 layer then wait.
On Wed, 02 Feb 2005 08:32:25 -0800, Bob Bowles wrote:
> Padding applies less shellac than brushing so the alcohol has a better
> chance of flashing off. The key word in your description was "thin"
> coat.
I've been trying out a yardsale hairdrier to move warm air over the
shellacked piece. Helps the "flash" in my chilly workshop. Can't get too
close nor too hot, else the alcohol makes blisters.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com
On Wed, 02 Feb 2005 11:32:11 -0800, Andrew wrote:
> I can do this at the dining table/watching TV because there is less
> harmful vapors with padding comparaed to brushing? Or what is the
> reason?
You want the solvent to go away fast so you can put on another thin coat.
I don't yet understand why that's better than putting on a thick coat and
waiting longer. The payoff might be that the drying time increases
exponentially with thickness of coat.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com
On Wed, 02 Feb 2005 20:16:35 -0500, Thomas Bunetta wrote:
> If the shop is chilly, how about one of the halogen work lights
I tried an incandescent, but that was too hot.
During warm weather, putting on all those coats is fun. (That sounds odd...)
Then there was the time I mistook my tub of oil+rottenstone for my tub of
shellac+pumice, and tried to fill the grain. Not only didn't it work, but
the shellac rubbed off. Whoops.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com