Well, I got that $40 drill press (see sig), and it seems to be okay.
It's a heavy, solidly-built piece of machinery, runs smoothly, and I
didn't have any problems with it -- except for the chuck. The tapered
spindle on the press doesn't appear to have any noticeable runout, and
the chuck doesn't appear to wobble, but I have to fiddle with any bit
that I insert in order to get it to run straight, and the smaller the
bit, the harder it is to get it straight. I'm thinking that a decent
chuck would make this a pretty good drill press, but I'm not sure what
to buy or where to get it.
I've looked at taper chucks in the catalog at MSC, and the
specifications are confusing. I'm a bit unsure of the terminology,
too, and I don't want to buy the wrong thing, but it looks like a good
chuck is going to run $40-$50. That doubles the cost of the drill,
but if it makes the unit accurate, then it would still be worthwhile.
The unit has a tapered spindle upon which the chuck mounts (the book
that came with the DP says its a Morse taper). That appears to be
backwards from the more expensive drill presses (where the spindle has
a socket with a taper and a slot), but I have read that that is
getting to be the rule for low-end DPs. There is no size marking, so
I guess I need to find information that relates the length and
diameter of the tape to size designations (like, what does 6JT or 33JT
mean, anyway?).
I'm thinking of taking the chuck to a local machinery supply and
asking for the requisite education. Am I going to be laughed out of
the place?
--
Howard
http://www.suzyqshop.com/product.asp?0=51&1=52&3=1900 <-- bought the
DP here
No, I would not be laughed out of the machinery shop I go to. The guy would
mount it in his lathe and tell me if it is true and also if you have an MSC
catalogue take it with you and he will tell you which chuck will suit your
needs or if the original one can have the trouble traced and fixed.
Of course it is not necessary to have the catalogue but ask him to write
down what you need and he will explainn all those abbreviations at the same
time.
My machinery shop is a really useful source of information especially if you
choose morning tea break. Try to find a small 2 or 3 man machinery shop.
Ken
Howard wrote:
<snipped>
> There is no size marking, so
> I guess I need to find information that relates the length and
> diameter of the tape to size designations (like, what does 6JT or 33JT
> mean, anyway?).
The "JT" indicates "Jacobs Taper". For a sizing chart for different
tapers see:
http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/taperdat.htm
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Jim Wilson <[email protected]> wrote:
>BTW, don't be tempted to try a JT33 chuck. It won't work. The JT33 is
>inch-based, but it works out to 15.850mm x 14.237mm x 25.4mm long. You
>need a true B16 chuck.
Thanks for that information. I did find some B16 chucks using a
search, which turned up http://www.right-tool.com/d2tapdrilchu.html
(the picture for this one is identical to the one they have up for the
3/8ths inch chuck, and the picture has on it "JT3...", so I'm guessing
that the chuck in the picture is just a generic placeholder). I'm not
familiar with this outfit, so I hope somebody here can tell me about
them. The chuck is fairly inexpensive ($17).
I will be looking into the other that I found as I have time. The
next one on the list was http://www.buildwell.com.tw/drill03.htm, and
their website sucks big time (pretty, but it isn't obvious how the
hell to buy anything there -- mayhaps I can sell them my web design
services).
The next few on the list are in the UK and Australia.
--
Howard Lee Harkness
Texas Certified Concealed Handgun Instructor
www.CHL-TX.com
[email protected]
Low-cost Domain Registration and Hosting! www.Texas-Domains.com
before you buy a new chuck try giving the one you have a good
cleaning. it may have a bit of metal debris left over from manufacture
or some dried grease (put there as rustproof for shipping) gumming up
the works. what I do sometimes is pull the chuck and soak it overnight
in a small jar of solvent. laquer thinner seems to work well. then
open the jaws all of the way and scrub down the insides with a qtip.
work the jaws a few times and rinse. give it a drop of oil and mount
it back on the press. now try some different size bits in it....
Bridger
On Sat, 06 Dec 2003 22:09:11 GMT, Howard <[email protected]> wrote:
>Well, I got that $40 drill press (see sig), and it seems to be okay.
>It's a heavy, solidly-built piece of machinery, runs smoothly, and I
>didn't have any problems with it -- except for the chuck. The tapered
>spindle on the press doesn't appear to have any noticeable runout, and
>the chuck doesn't appear to wobble, but I have to fiddle with any bit
>that I insert in order to get it to run straight, and the smaller the
>bit, the harder it is to get it straight. I'm thinking that a decent
>chuck would make this a pretty good drill press, but I'm not sure what
>to buy or where to get it.
>
>I've looked at taper chucks in the catalog at MSC, and the
>specifications are confusing. I'm a bit unsure of the terminology,
>too, and I don't want to buy the wrong thing, but it looks like a good
>chuck is going to run $40-$50. That doubles the cost of the drill,
>but if it makes the unit accurate, then it would still be worthwhile.
>
>The unit has a tapered spindle upon which the chuck mounts (the book
>that came with the DP says its a Morse taper). That appears to be
>backwards from the more expensive drill presses (where the spindle has
>a socket with a taper and a slot), but I have read that that is
>getting to be the rule for low-end DPs. There is no size marking, so
>I guess I need to find information that relates the length and
>diameter of the tape to size designations (like, what does 6JT or 33JT
>mean, anyway?).
>
>I'm thinking of taking the chuck to a local machinery supply and
>asking for the requisite education. Am I going to be laughed out of
>the place?
I've purchased some good quality jacobs chucks on ebay. The chuck
itself usually has a jacobs taper, that is what hte 6JT or 33JT refers
to. If the spindle itself has a female taper (more expensive/higher
quality drill presses usually do) than that is usually a Morse taper.
Drill presses that have the morse taper commonly use an arbor or
adapter to mount the chuck, The arbor simply has a morse taper at one
end and jacobs taper on the other.
Often the chuck is marked with the jt size. If not, you can remove the
chuck, and measure the diameter of the taper. A Machinery's Handbook
of any vintage will give you the info needed to match it to a standard
jt size.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Howard wrote...
> didn't have any problems with it -- except for the chuck. The tapered
> spindle on the press doesn't appear to have any noticeable runout, and
> the chuck doesn't appear to wobble, but I have to fiddle with any bit
> that I insert in order to get it to run straight, and the smaller the
> bit, the harder it is to get it straight. I'm thinking that a decent
> chuck would make this a pretty good drill press, but I'm not sure what
> to buy or where to get it.
Common problem. You're on the right track.
I've purchased a fair amount of tooling from Penn Tool and have been
very satisfied so far. Let me know if you find better prices on decent
quality tooling, though. I'm fickle. Or is that capricious...?
Although they are generally more expensive, I would suggest a keyless
chuck. A true Albrecht will take an arm and part of a leg, but these work
well and don't cost nearly as much.
http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/310.cfm
These:
http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/4274.cfm
have a tighter max TIR, but it is highly doubtful that you need the extra
precision. If you do, then you have the wrong drill press.
Albrechts are here, just for drools:
http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/329.cfm
http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/1571.cfm
If you really want a keyed chuck, the most common Jacobs chucks are here:
http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/1577.cfm
For the extremely budget conscious, the el cheapos (but still probably
better than the one that came on your drill press) are here:
http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/888.cfm
> ...it looks like a good
> chuck is going to run $40-$50. That doubles the cost of the drill,
> but if it makes the unit accurate, then it would still be worthwhile.
Absolutely. Cheap drill presses never come with a good chuck.
> The unit has a tapered spindle upon which the chuck mounts (the book
> that came with the DP says its a Morse taper). That appears to be
> backwards from the more expensive drill presses (where the spindle has
> a socket with a taper and a slot), but I have read that that is
> getting to be the rule for low-end DPs. There is no size marking, so
> I guess I need to find information that relates the length and
> diameter of the tape to size designations (like, what does 6JT or 33JT
> mean, anyway?).
Did you check the chuck for a taper marking? The JT stands for Jacobs
Taper. The number represents the size. By far, JT33 is the most common
size on small drill presses (<= 1/2" capacity).
> I'm thinking of taking the chuck to a local machinery supply and
> asking for the requisite education. Am I going to be laughed out of
> the place?
Go for it. If they laugh, laugh with them and you'll get your education
with a smile. But they won't.
Cheers!
Jim
Howard wrote...
> But now I'm curious about what the "B16" means, if anything.
Wish I'd seen that before my first post. (G) That's the taper. It's a DIN
238 spec. The DIN 238 tapers are shallower than the Jacobs tapers. B16 is
15.733mm x 14.534mm x 24 mm long.
BTW, don't be tempted to try a JT33 chuck. It won't work. The JT33 is
inch-based, but it works out to 15.850mm x 14.237mm x 25.4mm long. You
need a true B16 chuck.
Jim
Howard wrote...
> The only marking on the chuck was "1.5-13mm B16". I'm still wondering
> what the B16 means.
This is mostly a repeat. Don't know if you saw my post from last night on
the B16 question.
B16 is the taper. It's a DIN 238 spec. The DIN 238 tapers are shallower
than the Jacobs tapers. B16 is 15.733mm x 14.534mm x 24 mm long.
BTW, don't be tempted to try a JT33 chuck. It won't work. The JT33 is
inch-based, but it works out to 15.850mm x 14.237mm x 25.4mm long. You
need a true B16 chuck.
The 13mm is approximately 1/2". The item description of chuck you found
on right-tool.com is not the same as the picture, and the one depicted
won't work (and it's a 5/8", or approximately 16mm, too). Sometimes
online vendors use the same picture for various chucks in the same line,
so the D2931 might really match the description and not the picture, in
which case it would be ok. I still would hold out for a keyless chuck,
though.
Jim
Howard wrote...
> next one on the list was http://www.buildwell.com.tw/drill03.htm, and
> their website sucks big time (pretty, but it isn't obvious how the
> hell to buy anything there -- mayhaps I can sell them my web design
> services).
Not likely you can purchase from them. They're in Taiwan. (G) I suspect
they are an exporter (wholesale).
> The next few on the list are in the UK and Australia.
Ayuh.
[email protected] wrote:
>before you buy a new chuck try giving the one you have a good
>cleaning.
Hmmm... Cheaper than getting a new one... Thanks -- I'll give it a
try.
--
Howard
That's the best course of action. They will have a selection of tapers that
they can try for fit.
"Howard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> >
> I'm thinking of taking the chuck to a local machinery supply and
> asking for the requisite education. Am I going to be laughed out of
> the place?
>
> --
> Howard
> http://www.suzyqshop.com/product.asp?0=51&1=52&3=1900 <-- bought the
> DP here
Jim Wilson <[email protected]> wrote:
>Did you check the chuck for a taper marking? The JT stands for Jacobs
>Taper. The number represents the size. By far, JT33 is the most common
>size on small drill presses (<= 1/2" capacity).
The only marking on the chuck was "1.5-13mm B16". I'm still wondering
what the B16 means.
--
Howard Lee Harkness
Texas Certified Concealed Handgun Instructor
www.CHL-TX.com
[email protected]
Low-cost Domain Registration and Hosting! www.Texas-Domains.com
Howard wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>>before you buy a new chuck try giving the one you have a good
>>cleaning.
>
> Hmmm... Cheaper than getting a new one... Thanks -- I'll give it a
> try.
Might help, but I wouldn't hold out a lot of hope. I had a much more
expensive benchtop DP than yours, and I had the same problem with the
chuck. Especially with small bits.
I don't have any trouble at all with my new drill press. Both of them had
have genuine Jacobs chucks, so it isn't a matter of an el-cheapo vs. a
respected brand. I think it's just the difference between the 1/2" chuck
and the 5/8" chuck I have now. The big one is made somehow better, and I
have no trouble centering even teensy bits in the thing.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>The "JT" indicates "Jacobs Taper". For a sizing chart for different
>tapers see:
>
> http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/taperdat.htm
Interesting. I guess I gotta find my calipers...
BTW, the chuck has the following information on it: 1.5-13mm B16
I found a place that lists a chuck that might work:
http://www.right-tool.com/d2tapdrilchu.html
But now I'm curious about what the "B16" means, if anything.
--
Howard
http://www.suzyqshop.com/product.asp?0=51&1=52&3=1900 <-- bought the
DP here