Just picked up a set of Cool Blocks from Highland Hardware.
Went to install them and noticed that they don't fit well at all.
Measured the old blocks, exactly 1/2"
Measured the Cool Blocks, they are 1/32" shy on all dimensions.
Makes for a pretty sloppy fit and it's hard to make the faces parallel
to the blade and stay that way when tightening.
Can anyone who uses these things tell me if this is normal, or did I
get a bum batch?
Thanks,
Greg G.
"machine" some out of oak to the correct tolerances. some posters here
also soak them in WD40 but I haven't found a need to do that. sometimes
I use PAM on the the blade but only if I am cutting green stock. I use
them for all my blades, from 1/8 to 3/4.
BRuce
Greg wrote:
> Kenneth said:
>
> Hello Kenneth,
>
>
>>If they were whittled on someone's porch maybe, but these are machined
>>parts. It just does not seem at all likely that they would be off by a
>>32nd in every dimension.
>
>
> Ahh, thou who are so young and naive. <g>
> People sell crap every day of the year.
>
> I know they *shouldn't* fit badly, but they do. This could be their
> excuse for 'normal'. This is why I asked if anyone had experience
> with them on a 14" Delta Bandsaw.
>
>
>>I would not try to install them if it were my machine. Of course it is
>>tough with the holidays, but I would contact the retailer to find out
>>what's up.
>
>
> Tried to call them, they closed early today. <grrrr>
> I still have the stock blocks, but I have this new $30.00 WoodSlicer
> blade, and REALLY wanted to re-saw some oak tomorrow with tight new
> guides.
>
> SWMBO is out of town, and I got nothin' else to do.
>
> Bastages. <g>
>
>
> Greg G.
--
---
BRuce
In article <[email protected]>, Greg G. says...
> Swingman said:
>
> >Howdy, Greg,
>
> Hey, KC,
>
>... snip
> Hmmm....
> I modeled them in software, and sure enough, this is what happens:
> (blade clearance is increased slightly so the human eye can perceive
> the blade pinch)
>
You skipped the part where you tell us what you used to model them.
> These are very small animations that will load in Media Player on all
> Windows systems. Probably won't work on anything else...
>
> Perspective view:
> http://videodoc.home.mindspring.com/images/CBanim01.avi
> (21kb)
>
> Front view:
> http://videodoc.home.mindspring.com/images/CBanim01.avi
> (44kb)
>
> http://videodoc.home.mindspring.com/images/drain.jpg
On Wed, 24 Dec 2003 17:19:18 -0500, Greg G. wrote:
>Right part number. And it included the 45 degree block for the lower
>guide on a 14" Delta. Should be the right parts - they just fit
>poorly.
>
>
>Greg G.
Hi again Greg,
If they were whittled on someone's porch maybe, but these are machined
parts. It just does not seem at all likely that they would be off by a
32nd in every dimension.
I would not try to install them if it were my machine. Of course it is
tough with the holidays, but I would contact the retailer to find out
what's up.
Good luck with it,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
Superior, IMHO. I'm a turner, and when cutting rough wet timber into big
circles, the cool blocks at the left wore away fairly quickly.
The ceramics are slick, sturdy, and don't care about sap removal with
solvent if you're resawing red pine or tamarack. Just make sure the blade
can't slide behind, or it's spark and curse time.
<Greg G.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ron Magen said:
>
> >Don't have a Delta; went with the 14" JET Open Stand.
> >It came with their 'Cool Blocks' {Brownish material; striated like
Micarta}.
> >Although they worked well - I just HAD to try the machine out as soon as
I
> >had it assembled - I replaced them with Ceramic blocks.
>
> I have seen those, how do they work in comparison to the 'cool
> blocks'? I got them primarily for re-sawing. I figured the stock
> guides were OK for ordinary work. But with a riser and 1/2" blade, I
> figured I could use all the help I could get keeping the blade stable
> when re-sawing.
Kenneth said:
Hello Kenneth,
>If they were whittled on someone's porch maybe, but these are machined
>parts. It just does not seem at all likely that they would be off by a
>32nd in every dimension.
Ahh, thou who are so young and naive. <g>
People sell crap every day of the year.
I know they *shouldn't* fit badly, but they do. This could be their
excuse for 'normal'. This is why I asked if anyone had experience
with them on a 14" Delta Bandsaw.
>I would not try to install them if it were my machine. Of course it is
>tough with the holidays, but I would contact the retailer to find out
>what's up.
Tried to call them, they closed early today. <grrrr>
I still have the stock blocks, but I have this new $30.00 WoodSlicer
blade, and REALLY wanted to re-saw some oak tomorrow with tight new
guides.
SWMBO is out of town, and I got nothin' else to do.
Bastages. <g>
Greg G.
Howdy, Greg,
I've had them on my Delta 28-299 14" for a couple of years. Saw your post
and went out to the shop and hit them with a dial caliper for you.
Mine measure precisely 0.46 square, which is, as you say, about 15/32".
I never had a problem installing them, or adjusting them and they work fine
on the saw.
FWIW ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/23/03
<Greg G.> wrote in message
> Kenneth said:
>
> >I would doubt that you have a bum batch... My guess would be that you
> >have a set for a different machine.
>
> BTW, do you use them? Do you have a Delta 14" bandsaw?
> How do they fit your machine?
Greg,
Don't have a Delta; went with the 14" JET Open Stand.
It came with their 'Cool Blocks' {Brownish material; striated like Micarta}.
Although they worked well - I just HAD to try the machine out as soon as I
had it assembled - I replaced them with Ceramic blocks.
If memory serves . . .
1) BOTH types are a 'loose fit'
2) A very simple {KISS Principle}shim material - more of a protection from
the screws gouging the Blocks - is the material of your favorite beverage
can.
3) I changed the difficult to reach & tighten 'Thumb Screws' to Cap Head
Socket Screws . . . and painted the heads Fluorescent Red.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
<Greg G.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
SNIP
> Anyway, Thanks Again for everyone's input on this. Being the anally
> retentive engineer type, I will probably shim them before using.
SNIP
> Greg G.
In article <[email protected]>, Greg G. says...
> Mark & Juanita said:
>
> > You skipped the part where you tell us what you used to model them.
>
> Ahhh... But if I told you, I'd have to kill you. <g> [ADI]
>
> Only took a few minutes, just to visually demonstrate my criticism.
> Being as they ARE made of a soft material, the slop shouldn't cause
> any harm to the saw or blade, but will cause accelerated and irregular
> wear of the blocks. As I said, I'm kinda anal about machinery... <g>
>
>
> Greg G.
>
One question that comes to mind in looking at your simulation, what is
causing the downward forces on the blocks in the frontal view? You are
showing a gap between the blades and the blocks; my understanding is
that the blocks are to be in contact with the back of the blade. If the
blocks are contacting the blade, it would seem that the blocks would be
pulled toward one another and provide mutual support to prevent a gap
from forming.
Swingman said:
>Howdy, Greg,
Hey, KC,
>I've had them on my Delta 28-299 14" for a couple of years. Saw your post
>and went out to the shop and hit them with a dial caliper for you.
I appreciate you doing this on Christmas Eve!
>Mine measure precisely 0.46 square, which is, as you say, about 15/32".
Same here...
>I never had a problem installing them, or adjusting them and they work fine
>on the saw.
Hmmm....
Thanks, I was a little concerned by this - I wonder why they make
them so danged small? They definitely cock in the bore, and seem
awfully sloppy to me. Well, at least I didn't get an errant batch.
Seems to me, that depending on how they are installed, they could
pinch the blade when acted upon by blade movement.
I modeled them in software, and sure enough, this is what happens:
(blade clearance is increased slightly so the human eye can perceive
the blade pinch)
These are very small animations that will load in Media Player on all
Windows systems. Probably won't work on anything else...
Perspective view:
http://videodoc.home.mindspring.com/images/CBanim01.avi
(21kb)
Front view:
http://videodoc.home.mindspring.com/images/CBanim01.avi
(44kb)
http://videodoc.home.mindspring.com/images/drain.jpg
Anyway, Thanks Again for everyone's input on this. Being the anally
retentive engineer type, I will probably shim them before using.
Merry Christmas! Hope everyone gets what they desire.
(Health, Happiness, Family, Whorled Peas, and TOOLS!!!)
Greg G.
Michael Baglio <mbaglio<NOSPAM>@nc.rr.com> said:
>On Wed, 24 Dec 2003 18:51:09 -0500, Greg G. wrote:
>
>>Yea, I've heard of that. Was trying to avoid the machine work.
>>The time is worth more than the $10 Cool Blocks cost...
>
>But the upside of that, Greg, is that you spend an hour machining the
>width and height on a four-foot long piece of scrap, cut them to
>length and you've got enough "GG-Cool Blocks" for the rest of your
>life. :)
Yea, I know. <g> Heck, it wouldn't even take an hour.
Scrap oak around here usually ends up as miter guides on jigs.
Already bought the things, not realizing...
Thanks, and have a Happy Holiday!
Greg G.
Greg,
Got anymore of that 'wormy' stock ?
I'll take a good bit of it 'off your hands'.
Put an 'eye' bolt in it, toss it off the dock to 'river soak' for a month
{or till spring}and it will have that nice 'smooth & wormy' look . . . for
some unique nautical projects I have in mind.
Yes, I am serious !!
Regarding the Ceramic guides . . . they make the blade 'sing' a bit. But
then I may have my blade too loose. I'll probably get a 'set' of the heavier
springs after the New Year {Yes - I do have Timberwolf blades, but the
springs are a good idea, at the price, anyway}. My thinking is that the
'Cool Blocks' or the self-made hardwood ones are almost considered
'disposable' . . . the blade wears through them and there is 'friction
heating' to consider. The Ceramics would 'run cooler' and 'burnish' the
blade . . . especially with a 1/2" or 3/4" 'Resawing' blade in slight but
actual contact. At least that's my thinking. So far, no problems with
'standard' blades with 'standard' set-up.
Regards & Thanks,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
<Greg G.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Unfortunately, the oak had tons of worm tracks through it, so I guess
> it was of benefit only as learning experience. (The wood sat outside
> for 8 months.) It would have been better used as a turning blank - or
> firewood. Norm would like it, however - he likes those worm holes.
Mark & Juanita said:
> One question that comes to mind in looking at your simulation, what is
>causing the downward forces on the blocks in the frontal view? You are
>showing a gap between the blades and the blocks; my understanding is
>that the blocks are to be in contact with the back of the blade. If the
>blocks are contacting the blade, it would seem that the blocks would be
>pulled toward one another and provide mutual support to prevent a gap
>from forming.
As mentioned in the text above the links, the gap was exaggerated so
that the human eye could perceive it. The downward force is the
movement of the blade. This 'invisible force' is handled easily in
software. The block pinch is not a desirable behavior. In fact, the
cool block instructions claim that they are to be set with clearance,
not against the blade. Tilting is not a desired action.
Doesn't matter, I just shimmed them. Cut up a 12" x 2' log into
planks. The WoodSlicer is a great blade, unbelievably quiet and very
little lead.
Merry Christmas!
Greg G.
Swingman said:
>No problem ... 30' out the back door, in freezing snow and rain, uphill both
>ways, had to fight my way through piles of reindeer crap that fell off the
>roof .. but for you, nothing's too tough! ;>)
Aw, gee... <blush> You're to good to me...
Well, at least if you had to scrape reindeer poop off your shoes,
Santa must have made a visit. Or maybe he just mistook your shop for a
waste dump. <g>
>On mine the mechanism that holds each cool block is basically a short square
>tube. When tightened from the front, the cool blocks are pushed against the
>back of the square tube, automatically squaring them perfectly with the
>blade.
>
>It wouldn't make any difference if they were only 1/4" square, when
>tightened they would still be square to the blade
>
>If you have a newer model, perhaps that mechanism is different?
I don't think they have changed the basic configuration, but I could
be wrong. Cheapened it, perhaps. The screws press the block against
the back OK, but they still rock axially - top and bottom. Makes the
block wear crooked and pinches the blade if you don't install them
tilted - with the slop removed.
Anyway, I shimmed them and just finished cutting up a 12" x 2' oak
'log'. I was actually amazed that this cheap saw actually
accomplished the task with very little effort. The WoodSlicer blade
cuts extremely quietly, and has little lead. I am impressed.
Unfortunately, the oak had tons of worm tracks through it, so I guess
it was of benefit only as learning experience. (The wood sat outside
for 8 months.) It would have been better used as a turning blank - or
firewood. Norm would like it, however - he likes those worm holes.
Incidentally, do you know of a source on the web that covers the
basics of selecting and re-sawing wood - the procedures for selecting
which face to cut for the best yield, grain patterns and such?
Thanks again,
Greg
Greg G.
On Wed, 24 Dec 2003 16:10:31 -0500, Greg G. wrote:
>
>Just picked up a set of Cool Blocks from Highland Hardware.
>Went to install them and noticed that they don't fit well at all.
>Measured the old blocks, exactly 1/2"
>Measured the Cool Blocks, they are 1/32" shy on all dimensions.
>Makes for a pretty sloppy fit and it's hard to make the faces parallel
>to the blade and stay that way when tightening.
>
>Can anyone who uses these things tell me if this is normal, or did I
>get a bum batch?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Greg G.
Hi Greg,
I would doubt that you have a bum batch... My guess would be that you
have a set for a different machine.
HTH,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
On Wed, 24 Dec 2003 18:51:09 -0500, Greg G. wrote:
>Yea, I've heard of that. Was trying to avoid the machine work.
>The time is worth more than the $10 Cool Blocks cost...
But the upside of that, Greg, is that you spend an hour machining the
width and height on a four-foot long piece of scrap, cut them to
length and you've got enough "GG-Cool Blocks" for the rest of your
life. :)
Michael
Ron Magen said:
>Don't have a Delta; went with the 14" JET Open Stand.
>It came with their 'Cool Blocks' {Brownish material; striated like Micarta}.
>Although they worked well - I just HAD to try the machine out as soon as I
>had it assembled - I replaced them with Ceramic blocks.
I have seen those, how do they work in comparison to the 'cool
blocks'? I got them primarily for re-sawing. I figured the stock
guides were OK for ordinary work. But with a riser and 1/2" blade, I
figured I could use all the help I could get keeping the blade stable
when re-sawing.
>If memory serves . . .
>1) BOTH types are a 'loose fit'
>2) A very simple {KISS Principle}shim material - more of a protection from
>the screws gouging the Blocks - is the material of your favorite beverage
>can.
I have a roll of aluminum flashing that's about the right thickness.
You're right about the screws digging into them. One additional
concern about them fitting loosely - the constant re-tightening.
>3) I changed the difficult to reach & tighten 'Thumb Screws' to Cap Head
>Socket Screws . . . and painted the heads Fluorescent Red.
Interesting. Mine came with allen head screws, I was considering
installing thumbscrews. Maybe I should re-think that one.
Thanks for the info, and have a Merry Christmas!
Greg G.
Mark & Juanita said:
> You skipped the part where you tell us what you used to model them.
Ahhh... But if I told you, I'd have to kill you. <g> [ADI]
Only took a few minutes, just to visually demonstrate my criticism.
Being as they ARE made of a soft material, the slop shouldn't cause
any harm to the saw or blade, but will cause accelerated and irregular
wear of the blocks. As I said, I'm kinda anal about machinery... <g>
Greg G.
If anyone really cares:
Stupid me - Copy, paste, EDIT! Wrong filename on the second file...
Who knows why that last picture got in there. (!)
>These are very small animations that will load in Media Player on all
>Windows systems. Probably won't work on anything else...
Perspective view:
http://videodoc.home.mindspring.com/images/CBanim01.avi
(21kb)
Front view:
http://videodoc.home.mindspring.com/images/CBanim02.avi
(44kb)
Greg G.
BRuce said:
>"machine" some out of oak to the correct tolerances. some posters here
>also soak them in WD40 but I haven't found a need to do that. sometimes
>I use PAM on the the blade but only if I am cutting green stock. I use
>them for all my blades, from 1/8 to 3/4.
Yea, I've heard of that. Was trying to avoid the machine work.
The time is worth more than the $10 Cool Blocks cost, but then again,
maybe not - if they fit like these do... these things suck!
Thanks,
Greg G.
I have them on a 14" Delta and they work just fine. Install them per
instructions and use them. You don't need a .001" slip fit on these.
--
Bill Rittner
R & B ENTERPRISES
Manchester, CT
[email protected]
"Don't take this life too seriously.......nobody
gets out alive" (Unknown)
Remove "no" to reply
<Greg G.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Just picked up a set of Cool Blocks from Highland Hardware.
> Went to install them and noticed that they don't fit well at all.
> Measured the old blocks, exactly 1/2"
> Measured the Cool Blocks, they are 1/32" shy on all dimensions.
> Makes for a pretty sloppy fit and it's hard to make the faces parallel
> to the blade and stay that way when tightening.
>
> Can anyone who uses these things tell me if this is normal, or did I
> get a bum batch?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Greg G.
<Greg G.> wrote in message
> >I've had them on my Delta 28-299 14" for a couple of years. Saw your post
> >and went out to the shop and hit them with a dial caliper for you.
>
> I appreciate you doing this on Christmas Eve!
No problem ... 30' out the back door, in freezing snow and rain, uphill both
ways, had to fight my way through piles of reindeer crap that fell off the
roof .. but for you, nothing's too tough! ;>)
>
> >Mine measure precisely 0.46 square, which is, as you say, about 15/32".
>
> Same here...
>
> >I never had a problem installing them, or adjusting them and they work
fine
> >on the saw.
>
> Hmmm....
>
> Thanks, I was a little concerned by this - I wonder why they make
> them so danged small? They definitely cock in the bore, and seem
> awfully sloppy to me. Well, at least I didn't get an errant batch.
On mine the mechanism that holds each cool block is basically a short square
tube. When tightened from the front, the cool blocks are pushed against the
back of the square tube, automatically squaring them perfectly with the
blade.
It wouldn't make any difference if they were only 1/4" square, when
tightened they would still be square to the blade
If you have a newer model, perhaps that mechanism is different?
Good luck ... and have Merry Christmas.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/23/03