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For making the runners out of wood, is there a preference for how the =
runner cross section is oriented when cutting from s4s flat sawn lumber. =
Should the 3/4 width of the runner be from the 3/4 thickness of the =
stock, or from the width of the stock then sized to 3/8 from there? Or =
does it really matter?=20
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
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<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">For making the runners out of wood, is =
there a=20
preference for how the runner cross section is oriented when cutting =
from s4s=20
flat sawn lumber. Should the 3/4 width of the runner be from the 3/4 =
thickness=20
of the stock, or from the width of the stock then sized to 3/8 from =
there? Or=20
does it really matter? </FONT></DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">
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<DIV>-- <BR>SwampBug<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - -</DIV>
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Thanks Ken, a "been there" bit of advice goes a long way. I have some red
oak which should be ok for the job. I will marry that with 1/2" Baltic birch
plywood. 2x4 SYP should suffice for the fences. I want to make it a double
runner for at least 18" panel cutting. Any further suggestions are welcome.
--
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Ken Vaughn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>For making the runners out of wood, is there a preference for how the
> runner cross >section is oriented when cutting from s4s flat sawn lumber.
> Should the 3/4 width of
>>the runner be from the 3/4 thickness of the stock, or from the width of
>>the
> stock then >sized to 3/8 from there? Or does it really matter?
>
> Probably won't make a whole lot of difference. You won't get much cup in
> 3/4" width. If the board is flat sawn, I would probably cut 3/8" off the
> edge (3/4" thick dimension). A bigger problem is finding a board straight
> enough that you don't get a bow, or worse yet, twist in the strip. I
> found
> a very straight piece of quarter sawn hickory, thickness planed it to
> exactly 3/4", then ripped off a bunch of 3/8" thick strips. I have used
> these in several sleds with good results.
>
> --
> Ken Vaughn
> Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/
>
>
I understood, thanks.
--
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Ken Vaughn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Ken Vaughn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Oak will work well. I also used some stable SYP in two of my sleds and
>> it
>> has worked fine.
>
> SYP was used for fence, as you suggest, not for runners, as might be
> interpreted from my reply. Southern Yellow Pine can be very hard and
> stable.
>
>
I can be real selective with the grain on the runners. And while i can't
have true QS, i can select from flatsawn and cut as Ken suggested for a
close second best. . .I think! I could also use straight grain fir but I
don't know how stable it is compared to the oak I have.
--
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It is worth using QS material IMO. It will change less across the width,
> which is critical, with the seasons. Depth of the runner is less
> important
> and seasonal changes won't matter. I like White Oak or Maple. I don't
> think Red Oak is as good as a slider, but haven't really tried it. My
> best
> tip is, make a bunch of runners to fit your slots while you are at it.
> Only
> takes a few minutes extra and you will find a use for them on other sleds.
>
> --
> ********
> Bill Pounds
> http://www.billpounds.com
>
>
> "SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> For making the runners out of wood, is there a preference for how the
> runner
> cross section is oriented when cutting from s4s flat sawn lumber. Should
> the
> 3/4 width of the runner be from the 3/4 thickness of the stock, or from
> the
> width of the stock then sized to 3/8 from there? Or does it really matter?
>
>
> --
> SwampBug
> - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>
>
low humidity is a dream here is swamp country. . .<s> That makes sense in
context with another comment concerning QS wood. A simple project fraught
with possible blunders, , ,interesting!
--
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>> For making the runners out of wood, is there a preference for how the
> runner cross section is oriented
>
> The one time I saw it discusses, they suggested the growth rings go
> vertical - perpendicular to the table top. That said, I haven't worried
> about mine. I live in a low humidty area and shellac them...
>
>
cept of cource whatever you set it on during glue up. . .right? <s>
--
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> low humidity is a dream here is swamp country. . .<s> That makes sense in
>> context with another comment concerning QS wood. A simple project fraught
>> with possible blunders, , ,interesting!
>>
>> --
>> SwampBug
>
> Saw Ken's comments on SYP for the fence. My Sled #2 - used primed, 1x6"x6'
> MDF from the 'Depot. Cost was about $3, IIRC. Cut it in half and glued it
> into a 2x6"x3' fence. Nuthin' flatter than MDF. 'Cept of course...
>
>
"hard rock maple". . .sounds like a candy.<g> I've had the fir for ages. .
.might put it to use.
--
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Vertical grain fir is very stable but tends to splinter. I used aluminum
> and hard rock maple, both worked fine.
> Slightly chamfer the long edges, top and bottom.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> "SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I can be real selective with the grain on the runners. And while i can't
>> have true QS, i can select from flatsawn and cut as Ken suggested for a
>> close second best. . .I think! I could also use straight grain fir but I
>> don't know how stable it is compared to the oak I have.
>>
>> --
>> SwampBug
>> - - - - - - - - - - - -
>>
>>
>> "Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > It is worth using QS material IMO. It will change less across the
> width,
>> > which is critical, with the seasons. Depth of the runner is less
>> > important
>> > and seasonal changes won't matter. I like White Oak or Maple. I don't
>> > think Red Oak is as good as a slider, but haven't really tried it. My
>> > best
>> > tip is, make a bunch of runners to fit your slots while you are at it.
>> > Only
>> > takes a few minutes extra and you will find a use for them on other
> sleds.
>> >
>> > --
>> > ********
>> > Bill Pounds
>> > http://www.billpounds.com
>> >
>> >
>> > "SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> > For making the runners out of wood, is there a preference for how the
>> > runner
>> > cross section is oriented when cutting from s4s flat sawn lumber.
>> > Should
>> > the
>> > 3/4 width of the runner be from the 3/4 thickness of the stock, or from
>> > the
>> > width of the stock then sized to 3/8 from there? Or does it really
> matter?
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > SwampBug
>> > - - - - - - - - - - - -
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
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Vertical grain fir is very stable but tends to splinter. I used aluminum
and hard rock maple, both worked fine.
Slightly chamfer the long edges, top and bottom.
Dave
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I can be real selective with the grain on the runners. And while i can't
> have true QS, i can select from flatsawn and cut as Ken suggested for a
> close second best. . .I think! I could also use straight grain fir but I
> don't know how stable it is compared to the oak I have.
>
> --
> SwampBug
> - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>
> "Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > It is worth using QS material IMO. It will change less across the
width,
> > which is critical, with the seasons. Depth of the runner is less
> > important
> > and seasonal changes won't matter. I like White Oak or Maple. I don't
> > think Red Oak is as good as a slider, but haven't really tried it. My
> > best
> > tip is, make a bunch of runners to fit your slots while you are at it.
> > Only
> > takes a few minutes extra and you will find a use for them on other
sleds.
> >
> > --
> > ********
> > Bill Pounds
> > http://www.billpounds.com
> >
> >
> > "SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > For making the runners out of wood, is there a preference for how the
> > runner
> > cross section is oriented when cutting from s4s flat sawn lumber. Should
> > the
> > 3/4 width of the runner be from the 3/4 thickness of the stock, or from
> > the
> > width of the stock then sized to 3/8 from there? Or does it really
matter?
> >
> >
> > --
> > SwampBug
> > - - - - - - - - - - - -
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com
"Ken Vaughn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Oak will work well. I also used some stable SYP in two of my sleds and it
> has worked fine.
SYP was used for fence, as you suggest, not for runners, as might be
interpreted from my reply. Southern Yellow Pine can be very hard and
stable.
It is worth using QS material IMO. It will change less across the width,
which is critical, with the seasons. Depth of the runner is less important
and seasonal changes won't matter. I like White Oak or Maple. I don't
think Red Oak is as good as a slider, but haven't really tried it. My best
tip is, make a bunch of runners to fit your slots while you are at it. Only
takes a few minutes extra and you will find a use for them on other sleds.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
For making the runners out of wood, is there a preference for how the runner
cross section is oriented when cutting from s4s flat sawn lumber. Should the
3/4 width of the runner be from the 3/4 thickness of the stock, or from the
width of the stock then sized to 3/8 from there? Or does it really matter?
--
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
> For making the runners out of wood, is there a preference for how the
runner cross section is oriented
The one time I saw it discusses, they suggested the growth rings go
vertical - perpendicular to the table top. That said, I haven't worried
about mine. I live in a low humidty area and shellac them...
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> low humidity is a dream here is swamp country. . .<s> That makes sense in
> context with another comment concerning QS wood. A simple project fraught
> with possible blunders, , ,interesting!
>
> --
> SwampBug
Saw Ken's comments on SYP for the fence. My Sled #2 - used primed, 1x6"x6'
MDF from the 'Depot. Cost was about $3, IIRC. Cut it in half and glued it
into a 2x6"x3' fence. Nuthin' flatter than MDF. 'Cept of course...
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>For making the runners out of wood, is there a preference for how the
runner cross >section is oriented when cutting from s4s flat sawn lumber.
Should the 3/4 width of
>the runner be from the 3/4 thickness of the stock, or from the width of the
stock then >sized to 3/8 from there? Or does it really matter?
Probably won't make a whole lot of difference. You won't get much cup in
3/4" width. If the board is flat sawn, I would probably cut 3/8" off the
edge (3/4" thick dimension). A bigger problem is finding a board straight
enough that you don't get a bow, or worse yet, twist in the strip. I found
a very straight piece of quarter sawn hickory, thickness planed it to
exactly 3/4", then ripped off a bunch of 3/8" thick strips. I have used
these in several sleds with good results.
--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks Ken, a "been there" bit of advice goes a long way. I have some red
> oak which should be ok for the job. I will marry that with 1/2" Baltic
birch
> plywood. 2x4 SYP should suffice for the fences. I want to make it a double
> runner for at least 18" panel cutting. Any further suggestions are
welcome.
Oak will work well. I also used some stable SYP in two of my sleds and it
has worked fine. Only suggestion I can think of is to elevate the runners
in the miter gauge slots so that you get a good tight fit between the Baltic
Birch or MDF deck and the runners when you install the screws.
I have seen suggestions as to using pennies to elevate the runner -- I used
some Formica scrap and cut thin strips. I don't use any glue between the
runner and the sled deck, it always seems to seep out and cause drag, and
ultimately must be scraped off with a chisel or scraper. After completing
the runner installation, run a pencil along the inside of the miter gauge
slots to mark the runner and show where it needs to be scraped. When done,
wax the runners and bottom of deck.
--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/