Hi. I have just stained and varnished two pieces of old furniture that I
had stripped. (I didn't bother with a sanding sealer as the pieces were
already quite smooth, and these aren't great pieces, anyway). I varnished
once, sanded down with 400 grit, and then today put a second coat of varnish
on. I am expecting that there will also be some slight roughness on this
second, final coat, and so my question. Is it possible to sand this final
coat with something like 600 grit (or maybe even 400 grit) without getting
that white haze from the sanding? The varnish is a satin finish, so it
doesn't seem to show much when I sand it. If it does still make that white
haze, I thought I could take a brush with a little varnish on it and kind of
dry brush the hazy area to redissolve the white parts without reintroducing
enough varnish to cause another rough surface.
Any suggestions?
thanks,
dwhite
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi. I have just stained and varnished two pieces of old furniture that I
> had stripped. (I didn't bother with a sanding sealer as the pieces were
> already quite smooth, and these aren't great pieces, anyway). I varnished
> once, sanded down with 400 grit, and then today put a second coat of
varnish
> on. I am expecting that there will also be some slight roughness on this
> second, final coat, and so my question. Is it possible to sand this final
> coat with something like 600 grit (or maybe even 400 grit) without getting
> that white haze from the sanding? The varnish is a satin finish, so it
> doesn't seem to show much when I sand it. If it does still make that
white
> haze, I thought I could take a brush with a little varnish on it and kind
of
> dry brush the hazy area to redissolve the white parts without
reintroducing
> enough varnish to cause another rough surface.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
>
You can sand the second coat with 600 to smooth it. If you think the layer
of varnish is thick enough, you can apply paste wax. The wax, in my limited
experience, will even the sheen on the surface.
Please note I said "limited experience" and I'll quickly defer to those more
experienced than me.
Ed
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A hint. The first grit you sand with is the grit that you use to remove
ALL
> flaws with. Every grit after that is just to remove the marks of the
> previous grit till they are gone.
>
> Now, you can start out at four or six hundred grit and sand your self
silly
> for a couple or hours or you can start with something like 220 grit, get
the
> flaws out in an efficient and timely manner, then follow up with
> progressively finer grits till you get a look that gives you the warm and
> fuzzies.Remember the succeeding grits sole purpose is to remove the
scratch
> marks from the previous grit. It's the initial grit that does the real
work.
I checked the pieces today, and they are dry, but still have a kind of tacky
feel. It has that kind of cheap feel to it, if that makes any sense. Just
for experimenting, I took some worn 400 grit to the top, and it removed what
few flaws that were there. I wiped the surface with a cloth, and you can't
tell I did anything and it is smoother than before I sanded it. If I try
rubbing out with 220, can I go to 400 next, or are there more steps in
between? I'm also a little concerned about removing all the varnish on the
many turned/curved bits of molding. Any websites good at describing this
method?
thanks,
dwhite
>
> In the long run it is easier and faster to do it the right way. Well,
maybe
> I shouldn't say right way. Starting with a fine grit is akin to jumping
from
> say, 80 grit and trying to take out the 80 grit marks with 220 grit paper,
> but it will get you there eventually if you really want to bust your balls
> doing the job.
>
>
> --
> Mike G.
> [email protected]
> Heirloom Woods
> www.heirloom-woods.net
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > OK, thanks to Will, Mike and Ed for the suggestions. I'll have to see
how
> > the second coat dried later today and decide from there. If I go with
the
> > wax idea, will it need to be reapplied in the future to cover the
> scratches
> > again, or should it pretty much be good for the long term as is?
> >
> > thanks,
> > dwhite
> >
> > "Ed G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:%[email protected]...
> > >
> > > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > Hi. I have just stained and varnished two pieces of old furniture
> that
> > I
> > > > had stripped. (I didn't bother with a sanding sealer as the pieces
> were
> > > > already quite smooth, and these aren't great pieces, anyway). I
> > varnished
> > > > once, sanded down with 400 grit, and then today put a second coat of
> > > varnish
> > > > on. I am expecting that there will also be some slight roughness on
> > this
> > > > second, final coat, and so my question. Is it possible to sand this
> > final
> > > > coat with something like 600 grit (or maybe even 400 grit) without
> > getting
> > > > that white haze from the sanding? The varnish is a satin finish, so
> it
> > > > doesn't seem to show much when I sand it. If it does still make
that
> > > white
> > > > haze, I thought I could take a brush with a little varnish on it and
> > kind
> > > of
> > > > dry brush the hazy area to redissolve the white parts without
> > > reintroducing
> > > > enough varnish to cause another rough surface.
> > > >
> > > > Any suggestions?
> > > >
> > > > thanks,
> > > > dwhite
> > > >
> > >
> > > You can sand the second coat with 600 to smooth it. If you think the
> > layer
> > > of varnish is thick enough, you can apply paste wax. The wax, in my
> > limited
> > > experience, will even the sheen on the surface.
> > >
> > > Please note I said "limited experience" and I'll quickly defer to
those
> > more
> > > experienced than me.
> > >
> > > Ed
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
a touch up with 320 would be good and as for carvings and such, unless they
are really really bad I leave well enough alone. It's better to take extra
care in applying finish to those areas and not have to do anything further
with them.
Now, if your finish is good enough to be fixed with just 400 grit without a
lot of extended sanding that is fine, go for it. What grit you start and
finish with depends on the quality of the application job you are working on
and how much has to be taken off..
Good luck.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > A hint. The first grit you sand with is the grit that you use to remove
> ALL
> > flaws with. Every grit after that is just to remove the marks of the
> > previous grit till they are gone.
> >
> > Now, you can start out at four or six hundred grit and sand your self
> silly
> > for a couple or hours or you can start with something like 220 grit, get
> the
> > flaws out in an efficient and timely manner, then follow up with
> > progressively finer grits till you get a look that gives you the warm
and
> > fuzzies.Remember the succeeding grits sole purpose is to remove the
> scratch
> > marks from the previous grit. It's the initial grit that does the real
> work.
>
> I checked the pieces today, and they are dry, but still have a kind of
tacky
> feel. It has that kind of cheap feel to it, if that makes any sense.
Just
> for experimenting, I took some worn 400 grit to the top, and it removed
what
> few flaws that were there. I wiped the surface with a cloth, and you
can't
> tell I did anything and it is smoother than before I sanded it. If I try
> rubbing out with 220, can I go to 400 next, or are there more steps in
> between? I'm also a little concerned about removing all the varnish on
the
> many turned/curved bits of molding. Any websites good at describing this
> method?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
>
>
> >
> > In the long run it is easier and faster to do it the right way. Well,
> maybe
> > I shouldn't say right way. Starting with a fine grit is akin to jumping
> from
> > say, 80 grit and trying to take out the 80 grit marks with 220 grit
paper,
> > but it will get you there eventually if you really want to bust your
balls
> > doing the job.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Mike G.
> > [email protected]
> > Heirloom Woods
> > www.heirloom-woods.net
> > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > OK, thanks to Will, Mike and Ed for the suggestions. I'll have to see
> how
> > > the second coat dried later today and decide from there. If I go with
> the
> > > wax idea, will it need to be reapplied in the future to cover the
> > scratches
> > > again, or should it pretty much be good for the long term as is?
> > >
> > > thanks,
> > > dwhite
> > >
> > > "Ed G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:%[email protected]...
> > > >
> > > > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > > Hi. I have just stained and varnished two pieces of old furniture
> > that
> > > I
> > > > > had stripped. (I didn't bother with a sanding sealer as the
pieces
> > were
> > > > > already quite smooth, and these aren't great pieces, anyway). I
> > > varnished
> > > > > once, sanded down with 400 grit, and then today put a second coat
of
> > > > varnish
> > > > > on. I am expecting that there will also be some slight roughness
on
> > > this
> > > > > second, final coat, and so my question. Is it possible to sand
this
> > > final
> > > > > coat with something like 600 grit (or maybe even 400 grit) without
> > > getting
> > > > > that white haze from the sanding? The varnish is a satin finish,
so
> > it
> > > > > doesn't seem to show much when I sand it. If it does still make
> that
> > > > white
> > > > > haze, I thought I could take a brush with a little varnish on it
and
> > > kind
> > > > of
> > > > > dry brush the hazy area to redissolve the white parts without
> > > > reintroducing
> > > > > enough varnish to cause another rough surface.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any suggestions?
> > > > >
> > > > > thanks,
> > > > > dwhite
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > You can sand the second coat with 600 to smooth it. If you think
the
> > > layer
> > > > of varnish is thick enough, you can apply paste wax. The wax, in my
> > > limited
> > > > experience, will even the sheen on the surface.
> > > >
> > > > Please note I said "limited experience" and I'll quickly defer to
> those
> > > more
> > > > experienced than me.
> > > >
> > > > Ed
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Mike - last question and I'll leave you alone, I promise! If I go with a
220-320-400, or maybe just 320-400 is it best to do it by hand, and only in
the direction of the grain? I know maybe it is blasphemy, but I have one of
those orbital sanders with the square shaped sanding area. I thought that
since I'm not actually sanding the wood in this step, that it might not
matter for the larger surfaces.
Thanks again,
dwhite
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> a touch up with 320 would be good and as for carvings and such, unless
they
> are really really bad I leave well enough alone. It's better to take extra
> care in applying finish to those areas and not have to do anything further
> with them.
>
> Now, if your finish is good enough to be fixed with just 400 grit without
a
> lot of extended sanding that is fine, go for it. What grit you start and
> finish with depends on the quality of the application job you are working
on
> and how much has to be taken off..
>
> Good luck.
>
> --
> Mike G.
> [email protected]
> Heirloom Woods
> www.heirloom-woods.net
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > A hint. The first grit you sand with is the grit that you use to
remove
> > ALL
> > > flaws with. Every grit after that is just to remove the marks of the
> > > previous grit till they are gone.
> > >
> > > Now, you can start out at four or six hundred grit and sand your self
> > silly
> > > for a couple or hours or you can start with something like 220 grit,
get
> > the
> > > flaws out in an efficient and timely manner, then follow up with
> > > progressively finer grits till you get a look that gives you the warm
> and
> > > fuzzies.Remember the succeeding grits sole purpose is to remove the
> > scratch
> > > marks from the previous grit. It's the initial grit that does the real
> > work.
> >
> > I checked the pieces today, and they are dry, but still have a kind of
> tacky
> > feel. It has that kind of cheap feel to it, if that makes any sense.
> Just
> > for experimenting, I took some worn 400 grit to the top, and it removed
> what
> > few flaws that were there. I wiped the surface with a cloth, and you
> can't
> > tell I did anything and it is smoother than before I sanded it. If I
try
> > rubbing out with 220, can I go to 400 next, or are there more steps in
> > between? I'm also a little concerned about removing all the varnish on
> the
> > many turned/curved bits of molding. Any websites good at describing
this
> > method?
> >
> > thanks,
> > dwhite
> >
> >
> > >
> > > In the long run it is easier and faster to do it the right way. Well,
> > maybe
> > > I shouldn't say right way. Starting with a fine grit is akin to
jumping
> > from
> > > say, 80 grit and trying to take out the 80 grit marks with 220 grit
> paper,
> > > but it will get you there eventually if you really want to bust your
> balls
> > > doing the job.
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Mike G.
> > > [email protected]
> > > Heirloom Woods
> > > www.heirloom-woods.net
> > > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > OK, thanks to Will, Mike and Ed for the suggestions. I'll have to
see
> > how
> > > > the second coat dried later today and decide from there. If I go
with
> > the
> > > > wax idea, will it need to be reapplied in the future to cover the
> > > scratches
> > > > again, or should it pretty much be good for the long term as is?
> > > >
> > > > thanks,
> > > > dwhite
> > > >
> > > > "Ed G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > news:%[email protected]...
> > > > >
> > > > > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > > > Hi. I have just stained and varnished two pieces of old
furniture
> > > that
> > > > I
> > > > > > had stripped. (I didn't bother with a sanding sealer as the
> pieces
> > > were
> > > > > > already quite smooth, and these aren't great pieces, anyway). I
> > > > varnished
> > > > > > once, sanded down with 400 grit, and then today put a second
coat
> of
> > > > > varnish
> > > > > > on. I am expecting that there will also be some slight
roughness
> on
> > > > this
> > > > > > second, final coat, and so my question. Is it possible to sand
> this
> > > > final
> > > > > > coat with something like 600 grit (or maybe even 400 grit)
without
> > > > getting
> > > > > > that white haze from the sanding? The varnish is a satin
finish,
> so
> > > it
> > > > > > doesn't seem to show much when I sand it. If it does still make
> > that
> > > > > white
> > > > > > haze, I thought I could take a brush with a little varnish on it
> and
> > > > kind
> > > > > of
> > > > > > dry brush the hazy area to redissolve the white parts without
> > > > > reintroducing
> > > > > > enough varnish to cause another rough surface.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Any suggestions?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > thanks,
> > > > > > dwhite
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > You can sand the second coat with 600 to smooth it. If you think
> the
> > > > layer
> > > > > of varnish is thick enough, you can apply paste wax. The wax, in
my
> > > > limited
> > > > > experience, will even the sheen on the surface.
> > > > >
> > > > > Please note I said "limited experience" and I'll quickly defer to
> > those
> > > > more
> > > > > experienced than me.
> > > > >
> > > > > Ed
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
You might try, one a test piece, using Watco liquid wax and see how that
works for covering any haze you might have.
I use lacquer myself more than urethane, specifically Deft wood finish in
the spray cans (I don't have a compressor yet.) But I wouldn't recommend
putting that over urethane.
Anyway, try the wax. Good luck.
Will
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi. I have just stained and varnished two pieces of old furniture that I
> had stripped. (I didn't bother with a sanding sealer as the pieces were
> already quite smooth, and these aren't great pieces, anyway). I varnished
> once, sanded down with 400 grit, and then today put a second coat of
varnish
> on. I am expecting that there will also be some slight roughness on this
> second, final coat, and so my question. Is it possible to sand this final
> coat with something like 600 grit (or maybe even 400 grit) without getting
> that white haze from the sanding? The varnish is a satin finish, so it
> doesn't seem to show much when I sand it. If it does still make that
white
> haze, I thought I could take a brush with a little varnish on it and kind
of
> dry brush the hazy area to redissolve the white parts without
reintroducing
> enough varnish to cause another rough surface.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
>
>
Thanks again, Mike. I'll get back to you when I screw something up. lol
dwhite
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Actually it isn't blasphemy. Finish doesn't have a grain only the wood
does
> Since the aim is to reduce sanding marks to where you can't see them
through
> the use of finer grits of abrasive there is quite a bit you can do with
non
> grain direction work.
>
> I frequently use a random orbit sander for initial "finishing the finish"
> steps.
>
> I use a variable speed ROS at low speed. If you are using a single speed
> unit keep a close eye on how the finish may be building up on the
sandpaper.
> The friction heat of the high speed from a single speed unit can cause
> "corning" to build rapidly on the paper and that can give you some
unwanted
> marks in the finish.
>
> Don't be afraid to use the ROS but be cautious and keep an eye on the
paper
> to prevent build up.
>
> Good luck
> Mike
>
> PS I don't mind answer the questions so don't worry about asking.
>
> --
> Mike G.
> [email protected]
> Heirloom Woods
> www.heirloom-woods.net
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Mike - last question and I'll leave you alone, I promise! If I go with
a
> > 220-320-400, or maybe just 320-400 is it best to do it by hand, and only
> in
> > the direction of the grain? I know maybe it is blasphemy, but I have
one
> of
> > those orbital sanders with the square shaped sanding area. I thought
that
> > since I'm not actually sanding the wood in this step, that it might not
> > matter for the larger surfaces.
> >
> > Thanks again,
> > dwhite
> >
> >
> > "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > a touch up with 320 would be good and as for carvings and such, unless
> > they
> > > are really really bad I leave well enough alone. It's better to take
> extra
> > > care in applying finish to those areas and not have to do anything
> further
> > > with them.
> > >
> > > Now, if your finish is good enough to be fixed with just 400 grit
> without
> > a
> > > lot of extended sanding that is fine, go for it. What grit you start
and
> > > finish with depends on the quality of the application job you are
> working
> > on
> > > and how much has to be taken off..
> > >
> > > Good luck.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Mike G.
> > > [email protected]
> > > Heirloom Woods
> > > www.heirloom-woods.net
> > > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > > A hint. The first grit you sand with is the grit that you use to
> > remove
> > > > ALL
> > > > > flaws with. Every grit after that is just to remove the marks of
the
> > > > > previous grit till they are gone.
> > > > >
> > > > > Now, you can start out at four or six hundred grit and sand your
> self
> > > > silly
> > > > > for a couple or hours or you can start with something like 220
grit,
> > get
> > > > the
> > > > > flaws out in an efficient and timely manner, then follow up with
> > > > > progressively finer grits till you get a look that gives you the
> warm
> > > and
> > > > > fuzzies.Remember the succeeding grits sole purpose is to remove
the
> > > > scratch
> > > > > marks from the previous grit. It's the initial grit that does the
> real
> > > > work.
> > > >
> > > > I checked the pieces today, and they are dry, but still have a kind
of
> > > tacky
> > > > feel. It has that kind of cheap feel to it, if that makes any
sense.
> > > Just
> > > > for experimenting, I took some worn 400 grit to the top, and it
> removed
> > > what
> > > > few flaws that were there. I wiped the surface with a cloth, and
you
> > > can't
> > > > tell I did anything and it is smoother than before I sanded it. If
I
> > try
> > > > rubbing out with 220, can I go to 400 next, or are there more steps
in
> > > > between? I'm also a little concerned about removing all the varnish
> on
> > > the
> > > > many turned/curved bits of molding. Any websites good at describing
> > this
> > > > method?
> > > >
> > > > thanks,
> > > > dwhite
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > In the long run it is easier and faster to do it the right way.
> Well,
> > > > maybe
> > > > > I shouldn't say right way. Starting with a fine grit is akin to
> > jumping
> > > > from
> > > > > say, 80 grit and trying to take out the 80 grit marks with 220
grit
> > > paper,
> > > > > but it will get you there eventually if you really want to bust
your
> > > balls
> > > > > doing the job.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Mike G.
> > > > > [email protected]
> > > > > Heirloom Woods
> > > > > www.heirloom-woods.net
> > > > > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > > > OK, thanks to Will, Mike and Ed for the suggestions. I'll have
to
> > see
> > > > how
> > > > > > the second coat dried later today and decide from there. If I
go
> > with
> > > > the
> > > > > > wax idea, will it need to be reapplied in the future to cover
the
> > > > > scratches
> > > > > > again, or should it pretty much be good for the long term as is?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > thanks,
> > > > > > dwhite
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Ed G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:%[email protected]...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > > > > > Hi. I have just stained and varnished two pieces of old
> > furniture
> > > > > that
> > > > > > I
> > > > > > > > had stripped. (I didn't bother with a sanding sealer as the
> > > pieces
> > > > > were
> > > > > > > > already quite smooth, and these aren't great pieces,
anyway).
> I
> > > > > > varnished
> > > > > > > > once, sanded down with 400 grit, and then today put a second
> > coat
> > > of
> > > > > > > varnish
> > > > > > > > on. I am expecting that there will also be some slight
> > roughness
> > > on
> > > > > > this
> > > > > > > > second, final coat, and so my question. Is it possible to
> sand
> > > this
> > > > > > final
> > > > > > > > coat with something like 600 grit (or maybe even 400 grit)
> > without
> > > > > > getting
> > > > > > > > that white haze from the sanding? The varnish is a satin
> > finish,
> > > so
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > > doesn't seem to show much when I sand it. If it does still
> make
> > > > that
> > > > > > > white
> > > > > > > > haze, I thought I could take a brush with a little varnish
on
> it
> > > and
> > > > > > kind
> > > > > > > of
> > > > > > > > dry brush the hazy area to redissolve the white parts
without
> > > > > > > reintroducing
> > > > > > > > enough varnish to cause another rough surface.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Any suggestions?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > thanks,
> > > > > > > > dwhite
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > You can sand the second coat with 600 to smooth it. If you
> think
> > > the
> > > > > > layer
> > > > > > > of varnish is thick enough, you can apply paste wax. The wax,
> in
> > my
> > > > > > limited
> > > > > > > experience, will even the sheen on the surface.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Please note I said "limited experience" and I'll quickly defer
> to
> > > > those
> > > > > > more
> > > > > > > experienced than me.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Ed
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
OK, thanks to Will, Mike and Ed for the suggestions. I'll have to see how
the second coat dried later today and decide from there. If I go with the
wax idea, will it need to be reapplied in the future to cover the scratches
again, or should it pretty much be good for the long term as is?
thanks,
dwhite
"Ed G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
>
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi. I have just stained and varnished two pieces of old furniture that
I
> > had stripped. (I didn't bother with a sanding sealer as the pieces were
> > already quite smooth, and these aren't great pieces, anyway). I
varnished
> > once, sanded down with 400 grit, and then today put a second coat of
> varnish
> > on. I am expecting that there will also be some slight roughness on
this
> > second, final coat, and so my question. Is it possible to sand this
final
> > coat with something like 600 grit (or maybe even 400 grit) without
getting
> > that white haze from the sanding? The varnish is a satin finish, so it
> > doesn't seem to show much when I sand it. If it does still make that
> white
> > haze, I thought I could take a brush with a little varnish on it and
kind
> of
> > dry brush the hazy area to redissolve the white parts without
> reintroducing
> > enough varnish to cause another rough surface.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > thanks,
> > dwhite
> >
>
> You can sand the second coat with 600 to smooth it. If you think the
layer
> of varnish is thick enough, you can apply paste wax. The wax, in my
limited
> experience, will even the sheen on the surface.
>
> Please note I said "limited experience" and I'll quickly defer to those
more
> experienced than me.
>
> Ed
>
>
The last shall be first. Varnish, unlike shellac and lacquer, doesn't have a
solvent. Going over the area with more varnish will not redissolve the white
parts. It will however, fill the sanding scratches and make them, to some
extent, disappear.
With varnish and especially since you are using satin you have two choices.
Sand down a coat till it is flat and has a even scratch pattern over it. I'd
suggest 220 grit rather then 400. Then apply a perfect next coat and leave
it alone. .
Go through the whole rubbing out process until you reach a sheen you like.
Rubbing out is a process of cutting back the surface with ever finer grits
of abrasive until the scratches disappear to the eye and the finish reaches
the sheen you like.
You will probably not have to go through as many grits as you would with
have to go through if you had used a gloss varnish but, then again, you
won't end up with as a nice a finish as would be possible if you had used a
gloss varnish.
Note; sanding sealer may make sanding the first coat easier but it can cause
adhesion problems for the next coat.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi. I have just stained and varnished two pieces of old furniture that I
> had stripped. (I didn't bother with a sanding sealer as the pieces were
> already quite smooth, and these aren't great pieces, anyway). I varnished
> once, sanded down with 400 grit, and then today put a second coat of
varnish
> on. I am expecting that there will also be some slight roughness on this
> second, final coat, and so my question. Is it possible to sand this final
> coat with something like 600 grit (or maybe even 400 grit) without getting
> that white haze from the sanding? The varnish is a satin finish, so it
> doesn't seem to show much when I sand it. If it does still make that
white
> haze, I thought I could take a brush with a little varnish on it and kind
of
> dry brush the hazy area to redissolve the white parts without
reintroducing
> enough varnish to cause another rough surface.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
>
>
Actually it isn't blasphemy. Finish doesn't have a grain only the wood does
Since the aim is to reduce sanding marks to where you can't see them through
the use of finer grits of abrasive there is quite a bit you can do with non
grain direction work.
I frequently use a random orbit sander for initial "finishing the finish"
steps.
I use a variable speed ROS at low speed. If you are using a single speed
unit keep a close eye on how the finish may be building up on the sandpaper.
The friction heat of the high speed from a single speed unit can cause
"corning" to build rapidly on the paper and that can give you some unwanted
marks in the finish.
Don't be afraid to use the ROS but be cautious and keep an eye on the paper
to prevent build up.
Good luck
Mike
PS I don't mind answer the questions so don't worry about asking.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mike - last question and I'll leave you alone, I promise! If I go with a
> 220-320-400, or maybe just 320-400 is it best to do it by hand, and only
in
> the direction of the grain? I know maybe it is blasphemy, but I have one
of
> those orbital sanders with the square shaped sanding area. I thought that
> since I'm not actually sanding the wood in this step, that it might not
> matter for the larger surfaces.
>
> Thanks again,
> dwhite
>
>
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > a touch up with 320 would be good and as for carvings and such, unless
> they
> > are really really bad I leave well enough alone. It's better to take
extra
> > care in applying finish to those areas and not have to do anything
further
> > with them.
> >
> > Now, if your finish is good enough to be fixed with just 400 grit
without
> a
> > lot of extended sanding that is fine, go for it. What grit you start and
> > finish with depends on the quality of the application job you are
working
> on
> > and how much has to be taken off..
> >
> > Good luck.
> >
> > --
> > Mike G.
> > [email protected]
> > Heirloom Woods
> > www.heirloom-woods.net
> > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > A hint. The first grit you sand with is the grit that you use to
> remove
> > > ALL
> > > > flaws with. Every grit after that is just to remove the marks of the
> > > > previous grit till they are gone.
> > > >
> > > > Now, you can start out at four or six hundred grit and sand your
self
> > > silly
> > > > for a couple or hours or you can start with something like 220 grit,
> get
> > > the
> > > > flaws out in an efficient and timely manner, then follow up with
> > > > progressively finer grits till you get a look that gives you the
warm
> > and
> > > > fuzzies.Remember the succeeding grits sole purpose is to remove the
> > > scratch
> > > > marks from the previous grit. It's the initial grit that does the
real
> > > work.
> > >
> > > I checked the pieces today, and they are dry, but still have a kind of
> > tacky
> > > feel. It has that kind of cheap feel to it, if that makes any sense.
> > Just
> > > for experimenting, I took some worn 400 grit to the top, and it
removed
> > what
> > > few flaws that were there. I wiped the surface with a cloth, and you
> > can't
> > > tell I did anything and it is smoother than before I sanded it. If I
> try
> > > rubbing out with 220, can I go to 400 next, or are there more steps in
> > > between? I'm also a little concerned about removing all the varnish
on
> > the
> > > many turned/curved bits of molding. Any websites good at describing
> this
> > > method?
> > >
> > > thanks,
> > > dwhite
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > In the long run it is easier and faster to do it the right way.
Well,
> > > maybe
> > > > I shouldn't say right way. Starting with a fine grit is akin to
> jumping
> > > from
> > > > say, 80 grit and trying to take out the 80 grit marks with 220 grit
> > paper,
> > > > but it will get you there eventually if you really want to bust your
> > balls
> > > > doing the job.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Mike G.
> > > > [email protected]
> > > > Heirloom Woods
> > > > www.heirloom-woods.net
> > > > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > > OK, thanks to Will, Mike and Ed for the suggestions. I'll have to
> see
> > > how
> > > > > the second coat dried later today and decide from there. If I go
> with
> > > the
> > > > > wax idea, will it need to be reapplied in the future to cover the
> > > > scratches
> > > > > again, or should it pretty much be good for the long term as is?
> > > > >
> > > > > thanks,
> > > > > dwhite
> > > > >
> > > > > "Ed G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > > news:%[email protected]...
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > > > > Hi. I have just stained and varnished two pieces of old
> furniture
> > > > that
> > > > > I
> > > > > > > had stripped. (I didn't bother with a sanding sealer as the
> > pieces
> > > > were
> > > > > > > already quite smooth, and these aren't great pieces, anyway).
I
> > > > > varnished
> > > > > > > once, sanded down with 400 grit, and then today put a second
> coat
> > of
> > > > > > varnish
> > > > > > > on. I am expecting that there will also be some slight
> roughness
> > on
> > > > > this
> > > > > > > second, final coat, and so my question. Is it possible to
sand
> > this
> > > > > final
> > > > > > > coat with something like 600 grit (or maybe even 400 grit)
> without
> > > > > getting
> > > > > > > that white haze from the sanding? The varnish is a satin
> finish,
> > so
> > > > it
> > > > > > > doesn't seem to show much when I sand it. If it does still
make
> > > that
> > > > > > white
> > > > > > > haze, I thought I could take a brush with a little varnish on
it
> > and
> > > > > kind
> > > > > > of
> > > > > > > dry brush the hazy area to redissolve the white parts without
> > > > > > reintroducing
> > > > > > > enough varnish to cause another rough surface.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Any suggestions?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > thanks,
> > > > > > > dwhite
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You can sand the second coat with 600 to smooth it. If you
think
> > the
> > > > > layer
> > > > > > of varnish is thick enough, you can apply paste wax. The wax,
in
> my
> > > > > limited
> > > > > > experience, will even the sheen on the surface.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Please note I said "limited experience" and I'll quickly defer
to
> > > those
> > > > > more
> > > > > > experienced than me.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Ed
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
A hint. The first grit you sand with is the grit that you use to remove ALL
flaws with. Every grit after that is just to remove the marks of the
previous grit till they are gone.
Now, you can start out at four or six hundred grit and sand your self silly
for a couple or hours or you can start with something like 220 grit, get the
flaws out in an efficient and timely manner, then follow up with
progressively finer grits till you get a look that gives you the warm and
fuzzies.Remember the succeeding grits sole purpose is to remove the scratch
marks from the previous grit. It's the initial grit that does the real work.
In the long run it is easier and faster to do it the right way. Well, maybe
I shouldn't say right way. Starting with a fine grit is akin to jumping from
say, 80 grit and trying to take out the 80 grit marks with 220 grit paper,
but it will get you there eventually if you really want to bust your balls
doing the job.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, thanks to Will, Mike and Ed for the suggestions. I'll have to see how
> the second coat dried later today and decide from there. If I go with the
> wax idea, will it need to be reapplied in the future to cover the
scratches
> again, or should it pretty much be good for the long term as is?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
>
> "Ed G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:%[email protected]...
> >
> > "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Hi. I have just stained and varnished two pieces of old furniture
that
> I
> > > had stripped. (I didn't bother with a sanding sealer as the pieces
were
> > > already quite smooth, and these aren't great pieces, anyway). I
> varnished
> > > once, sanded down with 400 grit, and then today put a second coat of
> > varnish
> > > on. I am expecting that there will also be some slight roughness on
> this
> > > second, final coat, and so my question. Is it possible to sand this
> final
> > > coat with something like 600 grit (or maybe even 400 grit) without
> getting
> > > that white haze from the sanding? The varnish is a satin finish, so
it
> > > doesn't seem to show much when I sand it. If it does still make that
> > white
> > > haze, I thought I could take a brush with a little varnish on it and
> kind
> > of
> > > dry brush the hazy area to redissolve the white parts without
> > reintroducing
> > > enough varnish to cause another rough surface.
> > >
> > > Any suggestions?
> > >
> > > thanks,
> > > dwhite
> > >
> >
> > You can sand the second coat with 600 to smooth it. If you think the
> layer
> > of varnish is thick enough, you can apply paste wax. The wax, in my
> limited
> > experience, will even the sheen on the surface.
> >
> > Please note I said "limited experience" and I'll quickly defer to those
> more
> > experienced than me.
> >
> > Ed
> >
> >
>
>
I agree!
I just finished a set of utility shelves (not furniture so nothing but
edge-banded plywood) and shot two coats of varnish on it. Just
finished sanding with a Porter Cable ROS and 320 disks.
I made a connection from the sander output port to my small shop Vac
using very flexible (corrugated) one-inch bilge-pump hose (Home Depot)
and a turned wooden reducer fitting to the shop Vac hose. It really
helps keep the dust from building up and "melting" especially when
sanding varnish. There is enough dust left to need a tack-rag wipe.
Use a light touch and you'll find it will produce a nice silky surface
very quickly. (Too bad it won't get into those corners<G>.
One final coat from the HVLP gun and it looks really good.
-- DaveinFLL
==========================
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==========================
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