I have an old steel framing square that had alot of surface rust that made
it difficult to read. I used a sanding block to to bring it down to a
brushed steel surface. It is much improved, but I could be better if I could
fill the etched markings with some sort of pigment. I tried a wide sharpie
followed by a re-buff. That didn't appreciably darken the lines.
Has anyone ever had any success trying something similar?
Thanks,
Steve
"Stephen M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have an old steel framing square that had alot of surface rust that made
> it difficult to read. I used a sanding block to to bring it down to a
> brushed steel surface. It is much improved, but I could be better if I
> could
> fill the etched markings with some sort of pigment. I tried a wide sharpie
> followed by a re-buff. That didn't appreciably darken the lines.
>
> Has anyone ever had any success trying something similar?
Unless this tool has some special meaning to you I'd be inclined to buy a
new framing square... too much effort for a relatively low valued working
tool... Note, however, that one time I took a 1/2 size framing square and
hit it with the random orbit sander to make it usable for a project. Real
quick like... haven't used it again since then either!
John
Stephen, why not try using a very smooth/fine roller, and paint
everything BUT the etched lines? That may achieve the same effect.
Shane Andrews
Stephen M wrote:
> I have an old steel framing square that had alot of surface rust that made
> it difficult to read. I used a sanding block to to bring it down to a
> brushed steel surface. It is much improved, but I could be better if I could
> fill the etched markings with some sort of pigment. I tried a wide sharpie
> followed by a re-buff. That didn't appreciably darken the lines.
>
> Has anyone ever had any success trying something similar?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
On Mon, 12 Jun 2006 11:04:23 -0400, "Stephen M"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have an old steel framing square that had alot of surface rust that made
>it difficult to read. I used a sanding block to to bring it down to a
>brushed steel surface. It is much improved, but I could be better if I could
>fill the etched markings with some sort of pigment. I tried a wide sharpie
>followed by a re-buff. That didn't appreciably darken the lines.
>
>Has anyone ever had any success trying something similar?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve
>
Epoxy ink and a squeegee after a degrease.
Get a small touch up bottle of automotive paint-from anybody/any make. Apply
it to the line areas-let it harden fully, then re-sand using a flat block
wrapped in wet/dry paper-keep flushing with water as you go-result will be a
nice shiny-well marked square. A light spray of clear sealer (Krylon) will
preserve the shine for quite awhile.
Years ago I was a tool and dye guy. We used something very similar in
composition to a pastel, you know those soft crayon like things. The parts
templates would be finished and have all the necessay info stamped on them.
They would painted a flat back and then we would rub this crayn like thing
over them and then wipe. The material stayed in the stamped info and would
last quote some time.
"Stephen M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have an old steel framing square that had alot of surface rust that made
> it difficult to read. I used a sanding block to to bring it down to a
> brushed steel surface. It is much improved, but I could be better if I
could
> fill the etched markings with some sort of pigment. I tried a wide sharpie
> followed by a re-buff. That didn't appreciably darken the lines.
>
> Has anyone ever had any success trying something similar?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>