Dave,
I had the same decision. For about 100 bucks more (including S&H), you can
get the Grizz 75" long 8" wide behemoth. Very nice. No compromise.
Montyhp
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> check the prices on wide jointers. generally you get the best bang for
> the buck with a 6" wide jointer. I've got the Powermatic long bed --
> 66" long. I'd not be happy with anything shorter, but perhaps your
> needs are different. I'd like one wider, once in a blue moon, but the
> long bed is reasonably priced ($750) and the wider ones are
> substantially more costly.
>
> dave
>
> keith nuttle wrote:
>
> > I new to joiners, and am thinking I would like one. I have one
> > question. From theoretical point of view should I look for a joiner
> > with a longer bed or a wider blade. In other words would a joiner with
> > 24 inch bed and a 7 in blade be better, than a joiner with a 36 inch
> > bed on a 4 blade.
> >
>
Dave,
As far as I can tell, tables are coplanar and fence is flat (I don't own an
expensive straight edge, just a cheap Borg aluminum version). The real
proof is that I get flat wood (very nice joints and flat faces). It has two
HP and 4 blades. (I guess 4 blades may be a disadvantage when I go to
change them;-)
Montyhp
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> nice specs. Is the table and fence respectably flat and the tables
> coplanar? How many HP does it have?
>
> dave
>
> Montyhp wrote:
>
> > Dave,
> >
> > I had the same decision. For about 100 bucks more (including S&H), you
can
> > get the Grizz 75" long 8" wide behemoth. Very nice. No compromise.
> >
> > Montyhp
> >
> > "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>check the prices on wide jointers. generally you get the best bang for
> >>the buck with a 6" wide jointer. I've got the Powermatic long bed --
> >>66" long. I'd not be happy with anything shorter, but perhaps your
> >>needs are different. I'd like one wider, once in a blue moon, but the
> >>long bed is reasonably priced ($750) and the wider ones are
> >>substantially more costly.
> >>
> >>dave
> >>
> >>keith nuttle wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>I new to joiners, and am thinking I would like one. I have one
> >>>question. From theoretical point of view should I look for a joiner
> >>>with a longer bed or a wider blade. In other words would a joiner with
> >>> 24 inch bed and a 7 in blade be better, than a joiner with a 36 inch
> >>>bed on a 4 blade.
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
>
> "Larry Bud" wrote in message
> > > U shaped wood. Rule of thumb: you can run wood twice the length of the
> > > bed (both infeed and outfeed). Don't get a wider jointer thinking you
> can
> > > save on the planer, you'll need both to surface all sides.
> >
> > So if the total bed length is 60", I can make a perfect flat piece of a
> 120" length?
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> You, two extra pairs of experienced hands, a couple or three outfeed
> tables/rollers, and sufficient luck to go to Vegas to make the rent.
What the hell are you talking about?
Are you saying it's not possible?
If the majority of my boards are < 6', how long of a jointer bed do I need?
Larry Bud responds:
>> > > U shaped wood. Rule of thumb: you can run wood twice the length of the
>> > > bed (both infeed and outfeed). Don't get a wider jointer thinking you
>> can
>> > > save on the planer, you'll need both to surface all sides.
>> >
>> > So if the total bed length is 60", I can make a perfect flat piece of a
>> 120" length?
>
>
>"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:<[email protected]>...
>> You, two extra pairs of experienced hands, a couple or three outfeed
>> tables/rollers, and sufficient luck to go to Vegas to make the rent.
>
>What the hell are you talking about?
>
>Are you saying it's not possible?
>
>If the majority of my boards are < 6', how long of a jointer bed do I need?
If the majority of your boards are 6' long and about 6" wide or less, get a 6"
jointer of almost any brand. That's what he's talking about. But don't expect
to be able to take the 44-48" bed combination on those jointers and easily
joint 8' long boards. Even worse, your example of 10' long boards ona 60" bed.
That's a tiy SOB when it starts and when it gets near the end of the pass.
In other words, it's possible, with help, extra equipment and a lot of luck.
Charlie Self
If God had wanted me to touch my toes he would have put them higher on my body.
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 17:49:40 GMT, "Bob G" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>GET the Longest BED you can find...
Go on, brother! <G>
Barry
"keith nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I new to joiners, and am thinking I would like one. I have one
> question. From theoretical point of view should I look for a joiner
> with a longer bed or a wider blade. In other words would a joiner with
> 24 inch bed and a 7 in blade be better, than a joiner with a 36 inch
> bed on a 4 blade.
Longer bed is best. In practice, I don't know of any 7" jointers (usually
4, 6, 8, 12) and the wider jointers all have fairly long beds. In the 6"
calls, Powermatic has the longest, but is a couple of hundred $ more than
most other brands. Worth it if you are building larger projects,
questionable if all you do is short stuff like small boxes. .
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
You, two extra pairs of experienced hands, a couple or three outfeed
tables/rollers, and sufficient luck to go to Vegas to make the rent.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/02/04.
"Larry Bud" wrote in message
> > U shaped wood. Rule of thumb: you can run wood twice the length of the
> > bed (both infeed and outfeed). Don't get a wider jointer thinking you
can
> > save on the planer, you'll need both to surface all sides.
>
> So if the total bed length is 60", I can make a perfect flat piece of a
120" length?
"Bridger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 04:43:49 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> > I don't know of any 7" jointers
>
>
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31849
>
> ; ^ )
I do now. I wonder if this is really an 8" that has been "value
engineered"?
Ed
Edwin Pawlowski responds:
>>
>> > I don't know of any 7" jointers
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31849
>>
>> ; ^ )
>
>I do now. I wonder if this is really an 8" that has been "value
>engineered"?
Doesn't look like it. It looks more like a light duty 6" that has had the head
and tables slightly widened. Same HP, etc. I'd wonder about durability,
especially at that price point.
Charlie Self
If God had wanted me to touch my toes he would have put them higher on my body.
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
(Sadly) I own one. It was dirt cheap ($169? a long time ago) and it way
better than nothing. The 7"knives from HF were useless, and I have not been
able to locate any other supplier of 7's. I am currently running it with 6"
freud knives.
So, It's really a 6. :-(
-Steve
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Edwin Pawlowski responds:
>
> >>
> >> > I don't know of any 7" jointers
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31849
> >>
> >> ; ^ )
> >
> >I do now. I wonder if this is really an 8" that has been "value
> >engineered"?
>
> Doesn't look like it. It looks more like a light duty 6" that has had the
head
> and tables slightly widened. Same HP, etc. I'd wonder about durability,
> especially at that price point.
>
> Charlie Self
> If God had wanted me to touch my toes he would have put them higher on my
body.
>
> http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
Rule of thumb for board length to bed length is a jointer will correctly and
easily joint a board up to one and one half times the length of it's table.
They will do longer but it takes some dicking around.
There is no rule of thumb for width of blade/bed. If you can't figure out by
yourself whether a 6" or 8" jointer will meet your needs you probably
shouldn't be playing with sharp instruments anyway.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"keith nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I new to joiners, and am thinking I would like one. I have one
> question. From theoretical point of view should I look for a joiner
> with a longer bed or a wider blade. In other words would a joiner with
> 24 inch bed and a 7 in blade be better, than a joiner with a 36 inch
> bed on a 4 blade.
>
"keith nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I new to joiners, and am thinking I would like one. I have one
> question.
=================
I have not read any of the replies to your question YET...but I can tell you
I have owned a Rockwell 6 inch jointer for close to 40 years now... AND I
will tell you that I have given it a heck of a lot of use over the years....
I VALUE BED LENGHT over cutter width...
My Rockwell has a pretty short bed...maybe 40 inches or so...and that short
lenght has given me 1000 times more problems then being limited to a 6 inch
wide board...
I make a lot of tables, desks, etc..and I do a lot of glue ups for tops
etc..and in mist cases I limit the width of a board to about 4 to 5 inches
in width anyway....
MAYBE ..and this is a true statement...in the 40 years I have owned this
jointer I wished I had purchased an 8 inch jointer less then a dozen
times... BUT even making that statement if I were to buy a new jointer today
and the bed lenghts were equal I would buy an 8 in jointer and limit the
width of my boards I use to glue up a table top to
4 inches or so... Just to save time...
GET the Longest BED you can find...
Bob Griffiths
welcome to the PM club!
dave
John Dykes wrote:
> Yes - over the weekend I assembled my Powermatic. I'd been saving for this
> specific jointer for years.
>
> Holy smokes!
>
> I've tried all the other methods for preparing wood - Router table, tuned
> saw and Forrest blade, "Jointability," etc.... But, holy smokes, this
> jointer is a great piece of gear. Nearly every piece of hardwood now gets a
> few passes! Results better that I ever hoped for.
>
> Can't wait till I really learn how to use it -
>
> Regards,
> jbd
>
>
nice specs. Is the table and fence respectably flat and the tables
coplanar? How many HP does it have?
dave
Montyhp wrote:
> Dave,
>
> I had the same decision. For about 100 bucks more (including S&H), you can
> get the Grizz 75" long 8" wide behemoth. Very nice. No compromise.
>
> Montyhp
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>check the prices on wide jointers. generally you get the best bang for
>>the buck with a 6" wide jointer. I've got the Powermatic long bed --
>>66" long. I'd not be happy with anything shorter, but perhaps your
>>needs are different. I'd like one wider, once in a blue moon, but the
>>long bed is reasonably priced ($750) and the wider ones are
>>substantially more costly.
>>
>>dave
>>
>>keith nuttle wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I new to joiners, and am thinking I would like one. I have one
>>>question. From theoretical point of view should I look for a joiner
>>>with a longer bed or a wider blade. In other words would a joiner with
>>> 24 inch bed and a 7 in blade be better, than a joiner with a 36 inch
>>>bed on a 4 blade.
>>>
>>
>
>
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote in message
> On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 15:49:52 -0600, "Swingman" wrote:
>
> >I bought the Powermatic for two reasons, the longer bed, and the fact
that
> >it would fit in my shop. I really wanted a DJ20, but couldn't justify the
> >extra room it would take to gain the 2" in jointer width.
>
> I have my hand on a brand new DJ-_30_, 12 incher today. If only I had
> the money and space! <G>
Ah man, don't even talk about it! If I had the space, I could find the money
... or is it the other way around? ;>) Either way, the PowerMatic seems to
be earning its keep.
I could have used David J Marks' aircraft carrier today. I had a 12" wide
table top that was just thick and heavy enough to keep getting a trace of
snipe in the planer, no matter what I did. I was sure eyeballing the
Powermatic trying see if it could somehow stretch another 6" out of it
without spending half the day making a jig..
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/02/04
Yes - over the weekend I assembled my Powermatic. I'd been saving for this
specific jointer for years.
Holy smokes!
I've tried all the other methods for preparing wood - Router table, tuned
saw and Forrest blade, "Jointability," etc.... But, holy smokes, this
jointer is a great piece of gear. Nearly every piece of hardwood now gets a
few passes! Results better that I ever hoped for.
Can't wait till I really learn how to use it -
Regards,
jbd
Longer is better.
Bill
"keith nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I new to joiners, and am thinking I would like one. I have one
> question. From theoretical point of view should I look for a joiner
> with a longer bed or a wider blade. In other words would a joiner with
> 24 inch bed and a 7 in blade be better, than a joiner with a 36 inch
> bed on a 4 blade.
>
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 15:49:52 -0600, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I bought the Powermatic for two reasons, the longer bed, and the fact that
>it would fit in my shop. I really wanted a DJ20, but couldn't justify the
>extra room it would take to gain the 2" in jointer width.
I have my hand on a brand new DJ-_30_, 12 incher today. If only I had
the money and space! <G>
Barry
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 04:43:49 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I don't know of any 7" jointers
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31849
; ^ )
check the prices on wide jointers. generally you get the best bang for
the buck with a 6" wide jointer. I've got the Powermatic long bed --
66" long. I'd not be happy with anything shorter, but perhaps your
needs are different. I'd like one wider, once in a blue moon, but the
long bed is reasonably priced ($750) and the wider ones are
substantially more costly.
dave
keith nuttle wrote:
> I new to joiners, and am thinking I would like one. I have one
> question. From theoretical point of view should I look for a joiner
> with a longer bed or a wider blade. In other words would a joiner with
> 24 inch bed and a 7 in blade be better, than a joiner with a 36 inch
> bed on a 4 blade.
>
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 11:01:42 -0700, "John Dykes" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Yes - over the weekend I assembled my Powermatic. I'd been saving for this
>specific jointer for years.
>
>Holy smokes!
>
>I've tried all the other methods for preparing wood - Router table, tuned
>saw and Forrest blade, "Jointability," etc.... But, holy smokes, this
>jointer is a great piece of gear.
Jointers are very under rated.
People without one often think they can duplicate the function, and
some can. However, NOTHING joints as easily or as quickly as a real
jointer, and you've got a beauty!
Not much beats truly straight, flat stock when you want it, either. I
have never bought s3s or s4s stock that's as good as in-shop jointed
and planed wood.
Have fun,
Barry
I bought the Powermatic for two reasons, the longer bed, and the fact that
it would fit in my shop. I really wanted a DJ20, but couldn't justify the
extra room it would take to gain the 2" in jointer width.
The Powermatic is a fine tool, and one that gets a lot of use, almost daily,
in my shop.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/02/04
"John Dykes" wrote in message
> Yes - over the weekend I assembled my Powermatic. I'd been saving for this
> specific jointer for years.
>
> Holy smokes!
>
> I've tried all the other methods for preparing wood - Router table, tuned
> saw and Forrest blade, "Jointability," etc.... But, holy smokes, this
> jointer is a great piece of gear. Nearly every piece of hardwood now gets
a
> few passes! Results better that I ever hoped for.
>
> Can't wait till I really learn how to use it -
"Larry Bud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > "Larry Bud" wrote in message
> > > > U shaped wood. Rule of thumb: you can run wood twice the length of
the
> > > > bed (both infeed and outfeed). Don't get a wider jointer thinking
you
> > can
> > > > save on the planer, you'll need both to surface all sides.
> > >
> > > So if the total bed length is 60", I can make a perfect flat piece of
a
> > 120" length?
>
>
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > You, two extra pairs of experienced hands, a couple or three outfeed
> > tables/rollers, and sufficient luck to go to Vegas to make the rent.
>
> What the hell are you talking about?
>
> Are you saying it's not possible?
>
> If the majority of my boards are < 6', how long of a jointer bed do I
need?
I am not sure what he is talking about either, but will try to answer your
question. Most beginners look at a jointer as a tool that is easy to use
and that doesn't require much skill. It isn't like hand cutting dovetails,
but does require following a process to get great results. I think that is
what Swingman is hinting at.
To help decide what size jointer you need look to your current project and
try to guess what you will be doing in the future. If you don't think that
you will face boards wider that 6", then get a 6" jointer. If you need
wider then look at an 8", 12". Most hobbyists find that a 6" jointer is the
best value for them. Once you decide on a width look at the other features
of the different brands. Length of the table will be one feature but I
think that you will find that most bed lengths are in the same range. You
should be able to join 6' boards with any "name brand" 6" jointer. If you
are worried, then put bed length at the top of your feature list.
I started with a 6" jet. Less than two years later I moved to an 8" Delta
and now am investigating a 12".
Bob McBreen - Yarrow Point, WA
unless you absolutely _need_ to join 7" wood (obviously a 6" jointer would
be useless) the longer bed is perferable. You are trying to make the face
as flat as possible, a short bed and you could end up making a bunch of
U shaped wood. Rule of thumb: you can run wood twice the length of the
bed (both infeed and outfeed). Don't get a wider jointer thinking you can
save on the planer, you'll need both to surface all sides.
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 02:41:37 +0000, keith nuttle wrote:
> I new to joiners, and am thinking I would like one. I have one
> question. From theoretical point of view should I look for a joiner
> with a longer bed or a wider blade. In other words would a joiner with
> 24 inch bed and a 7 in blade be better, than a joiner with a 36 inch
> bed on a 4 blade.
"Larry Bud"wrote in message
>>>> So if the total bed length is 60", I can make a perfect flat piece of a
>>>> 120" length?
> "Swingman" wrote in message
> > You, two extra pairs of experienced hands, a couple or three outfeed
> > tables/rollers, and sufficient luck to go to Vegas to make the rent.
>
> What the hell are you talking about?
Just what it says ... experience, the proper equipment, and with little or
no experience, a hell of a lot of luck.
Not to be snide, but if you have to ask the question, chances of you going
out and buying a jointer and coming home and edge jointing and facing 10'
stock right away is pretty unlikely.
> Are you saying it's not possible?
Sure it's possible ... but it takes more than just the jointer to "make a
perfect flat piece of a 120" length". The next question is "Do you really
need to joint 6' to10' stock?"
> If the majority of my boards are < 6', how long of a jointer bed do I
need?
A 6" jointer will probably be sufficient for your needs. How many of your
projects use 6' boards?
Jointing a warp, cup, or bow out of long stock takes a good deal of practice
and understanding of wood and each is attacked differently. It often makes
more sense to cut your material to rough dimensions required for the project
BEFORE you joint, rather than trying to joint 6' or 10' stock.
Changing the length and/or width of the stock can take out a good deal of
warp, cup, or bow before you even fire up the jointer. It then becomes
easier, requires less equipment, and, as you gain experience with the tool,
you will get better results with a whole lot less luck.
HTH ..
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/02/04