anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on their
use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
Highland.
One reason I'd like to play with them is I've been having huge tearouts
with my planes recently. Probably because I dont have them tuned well, I
know :(
On Wed, 7 Jan 2004 17:48:38 -0500, "Mike G"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I defy anyone to look at two finishes done by any competent finishing
>person, one done with a scraper and one done with sandpaper, and tell which
>is which. Make that five pieces. It raises the odds on a good guess hitting
>the mark.
I think it depends on the choice of finish.
If the piece is pigment stained, there is a much greater chance of
seeing the difference, as some wayward scratches may be perfectly
visible.
If the piece has an oil finish, especially if the finish was "wet
sanded" with the oil, I agree with you.
Clear finishes right on the wood could go either way, depending on the
type and color of wood and the skill of the sander / scraper.
My opinion only.
Barry
On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 01:46:56 GMT, tmbg <[email protected]> wrote:
I have three Sandvik cabinet scrapers. Two rectangular and one curved.
When properly sharpened they are real time savers.
Sharpening a scraper properly takes about the same amount of time as a
chisel or plane blade, but when your done it will shave off wood as
fine as any smoothing plane. I was tought how to do it by a Danish
cabinetmaker...I'll gladly post the procedure if you desire.
Walking in the forrest...
TJB
>anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
>everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on their
>use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
>Highland.
>
>One reason I'd like to play with them is I've been having huge tearouts
>with my planes recently. Probably because I dont have them tuned well, I
>know :(
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote:
>
> On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 01:46:56 GMT, tmbg <[email protected]> wrote:
I _love_ scrapers. Way better than sanding IMO.
As Barry says, learn to sharpen them. I've just got to the point that
I can properly get a good burr. It only takes about two minutes to
sharpen
all 8 edges on a flat scraper now. At first I was trying too hard to
get it sharp but now that I have learned the subtle technique it's
simple. I
agree that if you don't persist and reach this level where you can
sharpen
them quick, you will give up.
-Bruce
>
> >anyone worked much with scrapers?
>
> All the time.
>
> >use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
> >Highland.
>
> Before you go, familiarize yourself with scraper sharpening methods.
> <http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00007.asp>
>
> Make sure you have everything you need, pick up what you don't.
>
> A dull scraper will turn off a new user in seconds.
>
> Barry
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Montyhp wrote:
>
> I have a good size blister on my right thumb right now from scraping this
> weekend.
>
> I highly recommend the Veritas Variable Burnisher (Lee Valley). Until I got
> mine, I never really got a good edge.
>
If you like the Veritas Variable Burnisher you're going to love their
card scraper holder thing-a-majig. Turn a knob to flex the card scaper
as much as you want and no more thumb cramps or blisters.
charlie b
This is a bit off topic - but still relates to scrapers.
The scraper produces a very smooth surface. Certainly smoother that a 150 grit
sandpaper. How does it affect the ability to stain the wood after scraping.
When you use sandpaper beyond 150 grit, it makes it more difficult to
effectively use a pigment stain (does not affect dyes). Does that mean I
shouldn't use the scraper if I want to use a pigment stain?
Len
----------
tmbg wrote:
> On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 12:21:52 -0500, terry boivin wrote:
>
>
>>On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 01:46:56 GMT, tmbg <[email protected]> wrote: I have
>>three Sandvik cabinet scrapers. Two rectangular and one curved. When
>>properly sharpened they are real time savers. Sharpening a scraper
>>properly takes about the same amount of time as a chisel or plane blade,
>>but when your done it will shave off wood as fine as any smoothing plane.
>>I was tought how to do it by a Danish cabinetmaker...I'll gladly post the
>>procedure if you desire.
>>
>
>
> Yes, I'd like to see it... I'm especially curious how you sharpen a
> gooseneck scraper
It depends on where you want your pigment stain to go.
Sanding leaves scratches in the wood and unless you do a good job of
removing the scratches left by the previous grit with a finer grit
paper,
the pigments will love to collect in the scratches and highlight them.
It takes no more looking that using an orbital sander with 120 grit
paper
on pine to see the effect.
The target for pigments should be the pores of the wood, a scraper wont
remove
the pores, but it may tend to close them up a bit on some woods. neither
paper
or a scraper will drastically change the pore collection ability of the
pigments.
Another benefit of a scraper, especially with soft woods like pine is
they will leave
a flat surface. Sanding will hollow out the soft areas and leave the
surface irregular.
-Bruce
lopez wrote:
>
> This is a bit off topic - but still relates to scrapers.
>
> The scraper produces a very smooth surface. Certainly smoother that a 150 grit
> sandpaper. How does it affect the ability to stain the wood after scraping.
> When you use sandpaper beyond 150 grit, it makes it more difficult to
> effectively use a pigment stain (does not affect dyes). Does that mean I
> shouldn't use the scraper if I want to use a pigment stain?
>
> Len
>
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Scrapers are awesome. I find I can scrape with or against the grain, just
don't try to scrape across the grain.
I rarely use sand paper as I find that the finish left by a scraper, or well
tuned smoothing plane cannot be improved upon.
The whole trick is in the burr. It takes very little pressure with a
burnisher to create a good burr. Preparing the scraper before drawing the
burr is important. You need to make sure that the face and edge of the
scraper are very smooth and square before drawing the burr. A very small
burr creates very nice shavings.
Good luck.
"tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
> everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on their
> use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
> Highland.
>
> One reason I'd like to play with them is I've been having huge tearouts
> with my planes recently. Probably because I dont have them tuned well, I
> know :(
I just started using one. I haven't gotten my technique down for creating
the bur. The bur that I am creating doesn't last very long, but I need
practice. It seems to be a real sandpaper saver.
"tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
> everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on their
> use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
> Highland.
>
> One reason I'd like to play with them is I've been having huge tearouts
> with my planes recently. Probably because I dont have them tuned well, I
> know :(
You are, of course, correct, though the same can be equally stated for
someone not familiar with the scraper and gets digs and chatter marks in the
wood. That is why I specified "competent finisher".
Still, the points are worth mentioning for any type of wood preparation..
Take care
Mike
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 7 Jan 2004 17:48:38 -0500, "Mike G"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> >I defy anyone to look at two finishes done by any competent finishing
> >person, one done with a scraper and one done with sandpaper, and tell
which
> >is which. Make that five pieces. It raises the odds on a good guess
hitting
> >the mark.
>
> I think it depends on the choice of finish.
>
> If the piece is pigment stained, there is a much greater chance of
> seeing the difference, as some wayward scratches may be perfectly
> visible.
>
> If the piece has an oil finish, especially if the finish was "wet
> sanded" with the oil, I agree with you.
>
> Clear finishes right on the wood could go either way, depending on the
> type and color of wood and the skill of the sander / scraper.
>
> My opinion only.
>
>
> Barry
"Al Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I have a Stanley #80, which I use for crotch/strange grain. I do have a set
> of hand scrapers and have filed and burnished, I even tried putting a 45
> degree edge on the straight....I also would love to know how he (Marks) gets
> such large shavings while hand scraping.
It may depend on the wood. With straight-grained poplar I can make
shavings the length of the board with a block plane--not something
I can do on most other woods. I haven't tried to make long shaving
with a scraper.
It is also possible to tune a scraper. WIth a big 15 degree hook
you can remove wood fast or with a fine 5 degree burr you can just
take the bumps and sags off a finished surface.
I found that out quite by accident when I was trying to remove
all the paint from a cabinet and discovered that I was just
leveling the surface on the topcoat the way the scraper was
burnished.
--
FF
I have the card scraper holder also and find it mostl a nuisance.. As
for the 'hot thumb' problem take a couple of the flexible refrig
magnets you get w advertising on them and attach to back. Greatly
extends time b4 heat gets to you.
On Wed, 7 Jan 2004 20:43:14 -0500, "Montyhp" <montyhp at yahoo.com>
wrote:
>I've got one, but I can't seem to control it. I'd rather just wrap duct
>tape around my thumbs.
>
>Montyhp
>"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Montyhp wrote:
>> >
>> > I have a good size blister on my right thumb right now from scraping
>this
>> > weekend.
>> >
>> > I highly recommend the Veritas Variable Burnisher (Lee Valley). Until I
>got
>> > mine, I never really got a good edge.
>> >
>>
>> If you like the Veritas Variable Burnisher you're going to love their
>> card scraper holder thing-a-majig. Turn a knob to flex the card scaper
>> as much as you want and no more thumb cramps or blisters.
>>
>> charlie b
>
On Tue, 6 Jan 2004 11:10:23 +0000, [email protected]
(Frank Shute) wrote:
>Sandpaper's for peasants ;)
I find that a stiff scrubbing brush and carbolic soap are adequate for
my peasants. Perhaps your estate is on a clay soil, and your serfs get
dirtier ?
On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 19:07:25 -0800, charlie b <[email protected]>
brought forth from the murky depths:
>If you like the Veritas Variable Burnisher you're going to love their
>card scraper holder thing-a-majig. Turn a knob to flex the card scaper
>as much as you want and no more thumb cramps or blisters.
Cotton gardening gloves work well to keep scrapers from warming
your fingers too much, charlie.
=========================================================
The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design
=========================================================
On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 01:46:56 GMT, tmbg <[email protected]> wrote:
>anyone worked much with scrapers?
All the time.
>use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
>Highland.
Before you go, familiarize yourself with scraper sharpening methods.
<http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00007.asp>
Make sure you have everything you need, pick up what you don't.
A dull scraper will turn off a new user in seconds.
Barry
I have a Stanley #80, which I use for crotch/strange grain. I do have a set
of hand scrapers and have filed and burnished, I even tried putting a 45
degree edge on the straight....I also would love to know how he (Marks) gets
such large shavings while hand scraping. I did find that after freehand
sharpening on the 1" belt sander at 45 deg. I was able to increase the size
of the shavings, but not substantially....:-(
"tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
> everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on their
> use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
> Highland.
>
> One reason I'd like to play with them is I've been having huge tearouts
> with my planes recently. Probably because I dont have them tuned well, I
> know :(
So you scuff it up a little with the appropriate grit.
Don't get me wrong I love my scrapers and the are indispensable in some
operations.
However, I think that all this swooning over scrapers has gone way over the
top and has become more of a "me too" trendy thing which tends to happen
when "new old things are rediscovered" A year or so ago you would have been
lucky to find twenty people. in the group who had any idea what a scraper
was or did. I know, I saw and answered a lot of the posts.
I defy anyone to look at two finishes done by any competent finishing
person, one done with a scraper and one done with sandpaper, and tell which
is which. Make that five pieces. It raises the odds on a good guess hitting
the mark.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"lopez" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This is a bit off topic - but still relates to scrapers.
>
> The scraper produces a very smooth surface. Certainly smoother that a 150
grit
> sandpaper. How does it affect the ability to stain the wood after
scraping.
> When you use sandpaper beyond 150 grit, it makes it more difficult to
> effectively use a pigment stain (does not affect dyes). Does that mean I
> shouldn't use the scraper if I want to use a pigment stain?
>
> Len
> ----------
>
> tmbg wrote:
> > On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 12:21:52 -0500, terry boivin wrote:
> >
> >
> >>On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 01:46:56 GMT, tmbg <[email protected]> wrote: I have
> >>three Sandvik cabinet scrapers. Two rectangular and one curved. When
> >>properly sharpened they are real time savers. Sharpening a scraper
> >>properly takes about the same amount of time as a chisel or plane blade,
> >>but when your done it will shave off wood as fine as any smoothing
plane.
> >>I was tought how to do it by a Danish cabinetmaker...I'll gladly post
the
> >>procedure if you desire.
> >>
> >
> >
> > Yes, I'd like to see it... I'm especially curious how you sharpen a
> > gooseneck scraper
>
I recently put a Hock blade on my 80 (a Christmas present from SWMBO) an now
that is one fine machine for taking wispy little curlies.
Glen
"My Old Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I use them. They do work. David uses hand scrapers mostly. There are
also
> cabinet scrapers like the Stanley #80 and #12 and scraper planes like the
> #112, #212, and #85.
>
> --
> Ross
> www.myoldtools.com
> "tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
> > everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on
their
> > use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
> > Highland.
> >
> > One reason I'd like to play with them is I've been having huge tearouts
> > with my planes recently. Probably because I dont have them tuned well,
I
> > know :(
>
>
On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 12:21:52 -0500, terry boivin wrote:
> On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 01:46:56 GMT, tmbg <[email protected]> wrote: I have
> three Sandvik cabinet scrapers. Two rectangular and one curved. When
> properly sharpened they are real time savers. Sharpening a scraper
> properly takes about the same amount of time as a chisel or plane blade,
> but when your done it will shave off wood as fine as any smoothing plane.
> I was tought how to do it by a Danish cabinetmaker...I'll gladly post the
> procedure if you desire.
>
Yes, I'd like to see it... I'm especially curious how you sharpen a
gooseneck scraper
I really have to get the get hold of the books you seem to be reading or who
ever you went to as a woodworking teacher..
A scraper will give you exactly the same kind of raised grain problems that
removing stock by any other method will.
Wood is formed from interlocking strands of fiber. Raised grain, probably
more accurately called raised fuzz, results from milled wood being dampened
and then drying. When wet, the strands swell. When dried, they shrink. What
does not shrink are the ends of fiber strands that were severed in the
milling process. These remain standing proud of the surface and have to be
removed with a very light touch to avoid severing more strands and ending up
with the same situation you started with.
A scraper cuts and severs fiber strands just like any other means of milling
wood and results in exactly the same situation and all the standard
precautions have to be taken. Especially when using water based products..
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"DarylRos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The myth about scrapers is that they give a better finsih than planes.
They
> don't, but they don't abrade surfaces like sandpaper does, so no grain
raising
> concerns.
>
> As for fancy widgets for sharpenng scrapers, check how Tage Frid did it: a
mill
> file and a 1" chisel.
>
> All those silly gadgets that hold files square are a waste. And those
carbide
> tool rod thingies, to give you soome magic hook angle. A scraper is a hand
held
> piece of $6 metal. If the angle is wrong, then angle the scraper with your
> hands.
>
> I use Knight planes, Lie Neilsens, I have an old Norris, my my Ray Iles
infil
> smoother gets used a lot. Those planes have great and expensive irons. But
the
> idea of spending more than a few bucks for a scraper blade is just plane
silly.
The myth about scrapers is that they give a better finsih than planes. They
don't, but they don't abrade surfaces like sandpaper does, so no grain raising
concerns.
As for fancy widgets for sharpenng scrapers, check how Tage Frid did it: a mill
file and a 1" chisel.
All those silly gadgets that hold files square are a waste. And those carbide
tool rod thingies, to give you soome magic hook angle. A scraper is a hand held
piece of $6 metal. If the angle is wrong, then angle the scraper with your
hands.
I use Knight planes, Lie Neilsens, I have an old Norris, my my Ray Iles infil
smoother gets used a lot. Those planes have great and expensive irons. But the
idea of spending more than a few bucks for a scraper blade is just plane silly.
End grain?
Don't know how it relates but, yes.
The only real problem with end grain is that wicks up finish and stain so
well it looks much darker then the rest of the piece.
Just sanding end grain to a much fine grit, say 320, 400 grit will do a lot
to mitigate the problem, then there is sealing it with shellac or commercial
pore sealer.
Anything that improves the end grain over the rest of the wood will mitigate
the problem including scraping. However, with a scraper, and since end grain
is usually milled to some kind of profile, it is hard to match that profile
without making a custom scraper and, if you don't match the profile, it's
more work then it is worth, in my opinion, trying to get the profile evenly
scraped.
Now if you are talking about the raised nubs of severed wood grain that
results in what is called "raised grain" it's a simple matter of dampening
the wood, letting it dry then giving it a ever so light scuff sand to remove
the nubs. Naturally a sharp scraper can be used to do the job but you have
to remember your purpose is NOT to remove material, just that little fuzz.
I've found that if the piece is not to be stained and a water based finish
is to be applied removing these nubs is easier if you just apply one light
coat of the finish and let it cure.The nubs will still remain standing but,
stiffened by the finish they are easier to remove.
If stain is to be used I dampen a piece, let dry, remove nubs, before
staining. While it's not quite as easy to remove the nubs if you try to do
so after the stain is applied there is a good chance of accidentally cutting
through the stain and spoiling it.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 6 Jan 2004 15:07:57 -0500, "Mike G"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I really have to get the get hold of the books you seem to be reading or
who
> >ever you went to as a woodworking teacher..
> >
> >A scraper will give you exactly the same kind of raised grain problems
that
> >removing stock by any other method will.
> >
> >Wood is formed from interlocking strands of fiber. Raised grain, probably
> >more accurately called raised fuzz, results from milled wood being
dampened
> >and then drying. When wet, the strands swell. When dried, they shrink.
What
> >does not shrink are the ends of fiber strands that were severed in the
> >milling process. These remain standing proud of the surface and have to
be
> >removed with a very light touch to avoid severing more strands and ending
up
> >with the same situation you started with.
> >
> >A scraper cuts and severs fiber strands just like any other means of
milling
> >wood and results in exactly the same situation and all the standard
> >precautions have to be taken. Especially when using water based
products..
>
>
> So is there a good or proper way to finish end grain then?
Hi Barry
Yes, they will leave a nice shiny surface which, unless you go way way up on
grits, sandpaper won't. However, shiny or not, there are still severed
fibers laying there waiting for the wood to be dampened. You won't have any
problem, sanded, scraped, or planed, if you go directly to an oil finish,
some degree of a problem with shellac, and lots of fuzz if you are using a
water based product.
Picture strands of dried out cooked spaghetti all intertwined and running in
one direction or better yet roman noodles. If you were to shave off a layer
of X depth, most of the strands would still be intact, but some would be cut
off leaving two tag ends at the surface of the shaved area. No matter what
you shave your wood. or pasta. with you can't avoid shaving some strands so
there are tag ends to raise their fuzzy little heads under the right
conditions, like, when the wood is dampened either with a water based stain
or water based finish, then dried and the stain or finish cures and the
cells shrink back to size.
It's a simple matter of wood fiber structure and there is no magical way
around it..
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> On 06 Jan 2004 19:15:41 GMT, [email protected] (DarylRos) wrote:
>
> >The myth about scrapers is that they give a better finsih than planes.
>
> I always heard it as they leave a better surface than sandpaper. I
> always considered a scraped surface almost identical to a planed
> surface.
>
> Barry
On 06 Jan 2004 19:15:41 GMT, [email protected] (DarylRos) wrote:
>The myth about scrapers is that they give a better finsih than planes.
I always heard it as they leave a better surface than sandpaper. I
always considered a scraped surface almost identical to a planed
surface.
Barry
On Tue, 6 Jan 2004 17:52:32 -0500, "Mike G"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi Barry
>
>Yes, they will leave a nice shiny surface which, unless you go way way up on
>grits, sandpaper won't. However, shiny or not, there are still severed
>fibers laying there waiting for the wood to be dampened.
I know. I didn't comment on the water absorbtion or grain raising.
I was thinking of the quality of the surface, due to it being severed
and not scratched.
Barry
On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 22:06:55 GMT, B a r r y B u r k e J r .
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 06 Jan 2004 19:15:41 GMT, [email protected] (DarylRos) wrote:
>
>>The myth about scrapers is that they give a better finsih than planes.
>
>I always heard it as they leave a better surface than sandpaper. I
>always considered a scraped surface almost identical to a planed
>surface.
>
>Barry
sometimes a scraper leaves a better surface than sandpaper. in
softwoods sandpaper will probably leave a better surface
Bridger
>I always heard it as they leave a better surface than sandpaper. I
>>always considered a scraped surface almost identical to a planed
>>surface.
Not true. Nothing beats the clarity of a freshly planed surface. A scraped
surface is not quite as good as a planed one.
I hate sandpaper.However, on something evil like curly bubinga, I think I would
rather sand it. Or change woods.
On Tue, 6 Jan 2004 15:07:57 -0500, "Mike G"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I really have to get the get hold of the books you seem to be reading or who
>ever you went to as a woodworking teacher..
>
>A scraper will give you exactly the same kind of raised grain problems that
>removing stock by any other method will.
>
>Wood is formed from interlocking strands of fiber. Raised grain, probably
>more accurately called raised fuzz, results from milled wood being dampened
>and then drying. When wet, the strands swell. When dried, they shrink. What
>does not shrink are the ends of fiber strands that were severed in the
>milling process. These remain standing proud of the surface and have to be
>removed with a very light touch to avoid severing more strands and ending up
>with the same situation you started with.
>
>A scraper cuts and severs fiber strands just like any other means of milling
>wood and results in exactly the same situation and all the standard
>precautions have to be taken. Especially when using water based products..
So is there a good or proper way to finish end grain then?
On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 18:51:48 GMT, tmbg <[email protected]> wrote:
Someone in here mentioned Tage Frid...He was one of my professors at
RISD nearly twenty years ago. Anyway, file the scraper's edge square
and true then stone it to make as smooth as possible..(I usually stop
at a #1200 grit stone) set the scraper flat on the edge of your
workbench and run the back side of a chisel along the scrapers edge at
a slight angle from vertical to create the fine burr. Don't forget to
spit on the chisel first for lubrication. May sound silly but it does
help. Goosenecks are done the same way but obviously it takes longer
and curved stones are required.
>On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 12:21:52 -0500, terry boivin wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 01:46:56 GMT, tmbg <[email protected]> wrote: I have
>> three Sandvik cabinet scrapers. Two rectangular and one curved. When
>> properly sharpened they are real time savers. Sharpening a scraper
>> properly takes about the same amount of time as a chisel or plane blade,
>> but when your done it will shave off wood as fine as any smoothing plane.
>> I was tought how to do it by a Danish cabinetmaker...I'll gladly post the
>> procedure if you desire.
>>
>
>Yes, I'd like to see it... I'm especially curious how you sharpen a
>gooseneck scraper
On Wed, 07 Jan 2004 03:09:35 +0000, Andy Dingley wrote:
>
> On Tue, 6 Jan 2004 11:10:23 +0000, [email protected]
> (Frank Shute) wrote:
>
>>Sandpaper's for peasants ;)
>
> I find that a stiff scrubbing brush and carbolic soap are adequate for
> my peasants. Perhaps your estate is on a clay soil, and your serfs get
> dirtier ?
Next time I'll try your carbolic/scrubbing brush method. Thinking
about it, sandpaper's too good for them ;)
The hassles of being an evil land-owning toff ....
</whinge>
-
Frank (aka "the Lord")
http://www.freebsd.org/
They work well but aren't for taking off a lot of material. Unfortunately
for you they also need "tuning".
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
> everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on their
> use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
> Highland.
>
> One reason I'd like to play with them is I've been having huge tearouts
> with my planes recently. Probably because I dont have them tuned well, I
> know :(
On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 01:46:56 GMT, tmbg wrote:
>
> anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
> everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on their
> use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
> Highland.
>
> One reason I'd like to play with them is I've been having huge tearouts
> with my planes recently. Probably because I dont have them tuned well, I
> know :(
I've got a number of scrapers. Card scrapers, a Stanley #80 & LN #112.
The card scrapers I use for small touch up jobs, the Stanley for
scraping off glue from panels and such like and the LN instead of a
ROS/sandpaper and clouds of choking dust.
Sandpaper's for peasants ;)
I'd get your planes tuned-up first though - it will mean less work in
the long run. Whilst you're at the hardware shop, buy some silicon
carbide paper and a piece of glass & Scary Sharp them.
--
Frank
http://www.freebsd.org/
I use them. They do work. David uses hand scrapers mostly. There are also
cabinet scrapers like the Stanley #80 and #12 and scraper planes like the
#112, #212, and #85.
--
Ross
www.myoldtools.com
"tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
> everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on their
> use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
> Highland.
>
> One reason I'd like to play with them is I've been having huge tearouts
> with my planes recently. Probably because I dont have them tuned well, I
> know :(
Marks uses the Stanley #80 almost as much as the hand scraper. I haven't
gotten a good feel for the method to his scraping madness, though... I.e.
when he's chosing the #80 over the hand scraper and vice versa.
Scraping and hand planing is something I need to read up on. I have a hand
scraper and burnisher, but that's it. The more I watch Marks, the more I
realize I should broaden my horizons. :-)
Brian.
"My Old Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I use them. They do work. David uses hand scrapers mostly. There are
also
> cabinet scrapers like the Stanley #80 and #12 and scraper planes like the
> #112, #212, and #85.
>
> --
> Ross
> www.myoldtools.com
> "tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
> > everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on
their
> > use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
> > Highland.
> >
> > One reason I'd like to play with them is I've been having huge tearouts
> > with my planes recently. Probably because I dont have them tuned well,
I
> > know :(
>
>
I have a good size blister on my right thumb right now from scraping this
weekend.
I highly recommend the Veritas Variable Burnisher (Lee Valley). Until I got
mine, I never really got a good edge.
Montyhp
"tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
> everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on their
> use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
> Highland.
>
> One reason I'd like to play with them is I've been having huge tearouts
> with my planes recently. Probably because I dont have them tuned well, I
> know :(
"tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
> everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on their
> use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
> Highland.
I have them located all over my shop. I'm constantly honing them. The
veritas burnisher works very nicely. Once you have them, you will try to
figure out how you got along without them. Make sure to get the goose neck
shaped one also. It works very nice smoothing coves.
SH
I've got one, but I can't seem to control it. I'd rather just wrap duct
tape around my thumbs.
Montyhp
"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Montyhp wrote:
> >
> > I have a good size blister on my right thumb right now from scraping
this
> > weekend.
> >
> > I highly recommend the Veritas Variable Burnisher (Lee Valley). Until I
got
> > mine, I never really got a good edge.
> >
>
> If you like the Veritas Variable Burnisher you're going to love their
> card scraper holder thing-a-majig. Turn a knob to flex the card scaper
> as much as you want and no more thumb cramps or blisters.
>
> charlie b