Just got the go ahead on a pretty good job for a doctors office here in
town. A big reception thing with 3 counter tops all on different levels
with several drawers and doors. 3 large book shelves and a big glass
display case with 4 rail and stile glass doors.
I ain't never built no glass doors b-4 so heres where I need some help.
Which router bit set do yall favor for them glass doors? I've found the
freud, the cmt and the mlcs in order books but not sure which one to
get.
Please help!!
TIA
Jack
Hi, Jack.
I use the Freud set - excellent kit. Invest in a router/TS height setting
gauge as well - Trend do a good one fairly cheaply. When you're prepping
your stock run off a few feet extra for practice runs, backing blocks and in
case of balls-ups. Take pains with getting your stock accurately square -
if the face side and its opposite side are not *exactly* flat and parallel,
a door system like this will accentuate the errors. From this point of
view, you're best to go ahead with your door machining ASAP after you prep
the stock.
When you're doing a large run of doors, it's very easy to get mixed up and
find yourself eg running the moulding on the wrong side of the stock, so
mark everything up face side and edge and organise your machining
operations. Don't economise on your stock either, and pay particular
attention to the MC. It's a real bummer when your beautiful doors either
warp or shrink - DAMHIKT!
Cheers,
Frank
"Jack Gray" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just got the go ahead on a pretty good job for a doctors office here in
> town. A big reception thing with 3 counter tops all on different levels
> with several drawers and doors. 3 large book shelves and a big glass
> display case with 4 rail and stile glass doors.
>
> I ain't never built no glass doors b-4 so heres where I need some help.
> Which router bit set do yall favor for them glass doors? I've found the
> freud, the cmt and the mlcs in order books but not sure which one to
> get.
>
> Please help!!
> TIA
> Jack
>
If there are no mullions, the easiest and best way is to use a regular door
cutter set and glue up the frame (obviously with no panel). Then, route out
the back so the groove is exposed.
Preston
"Jack Gray" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just got the go ahead on a pretty good job for a doctors office here in
> town. A big reception thing with 3 counter tops all on different levels
> with several drawers and doors. 3 large book shelves and a big glass
> display case with 4 rail and stile glass doors.
>
> I ain't never built no glass doors b-4 so heres where I need some help.
> Which router bit set do yall favor for them glass doors? I've found the
> freud, the cmt and the mlcs in order books but not sure which one to
> get.
>
> Please help!!
> TIA
> Jack
>
[email protected] (Jack Gray) wrote in news:774-401BE9A7-36@storefull-
3272.bay.webtv.net:
> Had'nt thought about that. I don't build many glass doors anyway. Then
> just rip a small strip of matching wood and capture the glass with it.
>
> Thanks
> jack
>
You don't even have to install the small strip back in. You can buy the
glass holders. I think woodcraft is where I bought mine. If you use the
strips you will probably want to put some sort of material between the wood
and glass to keep it from rattling.
On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 21:02:56 -0600 (CST), [email protected] (Jack
Gray) wrote:
>Just got the go ahead on a pretty good job for a doctors office here in
>town. A big reception thing with 3 counter tops all on different levels
>with several drawers and doors. 3 large book shelves and a big glass
>display case with 4 rail and stile glass doors.
>
>I ain't never built no glass doors b-4 so heres where I need some help.
>Which router bit set do yall favor for them glass doors? I've found the
>freud, the cmt and the mlcs in order books but not sure which one to
>get.
>
>Please help!!
>TIA
>Jack
I'd lean toward the freud, but by a small margin. price and profile
would probably drive the decision.
Bridger