Hi -
I have a flat 18"x20"x3/4" piece of birch ply edged with 3/4" maple that
I'm going to use for a simple (portable) router table top. I live near
Boston (humid summer, dry winter) and do my ww'ing in the basement. Even
though I run a dehumidifier, wood I bring in the basement to sit for a few
days will often twist (hardwoods not so much). Considering that this is
quality plywood I'm wondering if there's any reason to apply a couple
coats of poly for sealing purposes?
I also have a straight/sq piece of maple (2x3, two pieces of 1x3 glued
together) I'll use for a simple fence - any reason for a couple coats of
poly on that? I don't especially like poly (and prefer the feel of
natural wood anyway) so unless it will make a big difference I'd rather
not apply it to either of these.
Thanks...
Mike
--
mikeballard at symbol verizon period net
"If your main parachute fouls, deploy your reserve. If your
reserve is also fouled, you have the rest of your life to get
it straightened out."
"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
> How do you feel about shellac and wax? Doesn't get much easier, to apply
> initially, or to repair, if needed...
>
> Patriarch
That would be my second choice. First would be a laminate top for
smoothness. I'd use shellac for the edges and even the bottom for some
protection.
I'd be as concerned about having a smooth surface to slide the part on as
much as protection of the plywood.
Ed
Being not to far from Boston myself and if this is to be a router table top
I'd say you may want to consider the poly but not as a sealer but rather as
smoother surface, especially when waxed, for other wood to slide over. It
will also collect the inevitable scratches that are easier to remove from
the finish then from the wood.
Good luck
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Mike Ballard" <dont_w@nt_spam.org> wrote in message
news:m24qq337dw.fsf@west_f1.net...
>
> Hi -
>
> I have a flat 18"x20"x3/4" piece of birch ply edged with 3/4" maple that
> I'm going to use for a simple (portable) router table top. I live near
> Boston (humid summer, dry winter) and do my ww'ing in the basement. Even
> though I run a dehumidifier, wood I bring in the basement to sit for a few
> days will often twist (hardwoods not so much). Considering that this is
> quality plywood I'm wondering if there's any reason to apply a couple
> coats of poly for sealing purposes?
>
> I also have a straight/sq piece of maple (2x3, two pieces of 1x3 glued
> together) I'll use for a simple fence - any reason for a couple coats of
> poly on that? I don't especially like poly (and prefer the feel of
> natural wood anyway) so unless it will make a big difference I'd rather
> not apply it to either of these.
>
> Thanks...
>
> Mike
> --
>
> mikeballard at symbol verizon period net
>
> "If your main parachute fouls, deploy your reserve. If your
> reserve is also fouled, you have the rest of your life to get
> it straightened out."
>
The temperature has been less then ideal and the humidity a bit high so you
might have to wait a bit longer for it to cure but it is suppose to be
fairly nice this week end. If the weather reports are right try to get a
coat on sat and sun.
Good luck.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Mike Ballard" <dont_w@nt_spam.org> wrote in message
news:m2brkawtgd.fsf@west_f1.net...
>
> On Wed May 26, Mike G disturbed my nap when he said:
>
> > Being not to far from Boston myself and if this is to be a router table
top
> > I'd say you may want to consider the poly but not as a sealer but rather
as
> > smoother surface, especially when waxed, for other wood to slide over.
It
> > will also collect the inevitable scratches that are easier to remove
from
> > the finish then from the wood.
> > Good luck
> >
>
> Abrasion protection - good enough. Since you live in the area, and
> knowing the odd weather lately, is there much chance of absorption damage
> if I take the piece into the (enclosed) garage to put on the poly? The
> garage's weather is pretty much whatever is outside and this top has not
> been out of the basement (and I have gas furnace/water heater in the
> basement).
>
> Mike
> --
>
> mikeballard at symbol verizon period net
>
> "If your main parachute fouls, deploy your reserve. If your
> reserve is also fouled, you have the rest of your life to get
> it straightened out."
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Being not to far from Boston myself and if this is to be a router
> table top I'd say you may want to consider the poly but not as a
> sealer but rather as smoother surface, especially when waxed, for
> other wood to slide over. It will also collect the inevitable
> scratches that are easier to remove from the finish then from the
> wood. Good luck
>
How do you feel about shellac and wax? Doesn't get much easier, to apply
initially, or to repair, if needed...
Patriarch
Good thoughts.
Wax is certainly possible but I have to wonder if the wax would need new
applications less frequently on a hard poly surface rather then a bare wood
surface. Of course the nice thing about the thought is that one can try just
the wax and if it doesn't work out move on to something else. It's a lot
easier then backing away from a cured poly surface.
Shellac on a router table top? Maybe, if it is kept well waxed. Lets face
it, as much as I like shellac, it isn't the best finish to resist abrasion
scratches and a router table top does, by it's nature, have firmly held down
wood, sliding across it as a matter of course.
About anything smooth that gets between the wood to wood contact would work
it's just a matter of weighing the amount of upkeep the surface chosen will
require considering the use the top will get. Another possibility would be
smooth stick on floor tiles. Cheap and easily replaceable if they get dinged
up.
Myself, if I ever get around to building another router table, the top is
going to be Formica. It's hard, slick, and as a counter top material fairly
resistant to scratching. And yes, it will be kept waxed.
Of course one has to remember to allow for the thickness of whatever you use
when setting up the hole for the router and inserts..
Hope it helps.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > Being not to far from Boston myself and if this is to be a router
> > table top I'd say you may want to consider the poly but not as a
> > sealer but rather as smoother surface, especially when waxed, for
> > other wood to slide over. It will also collect the inevitable
> > scratches that are easier to remove from the finish then from the
> > wood. Good luck
> >
>
> How do you feel about shellac and wax? Doesn't get much easier, to apply
> initially, or to repair, if needed...
>
> Patriarch
On Wed May 26, Mike G disturbed my nap when he said:
> Being not to far from Boston myself and if this is to be a router table top
> I'd say you may want to consider the poly but not as a sealer but rather as
> smoother surface, especially when waxed, for other wood to slide over. It
> will also collect the inevitable scratches that are easier to remove from
> the finish then from the wood.
> Good luck
>
Abrasion protection - good enough. Since you live in the area, and
knowing the odd weather lately, is there much chance of absorption damage
if I take the piece into the (enclosed) garage to put on the poly? The
garage's weather is pretty much whatever is outside and this top has not
been out of the basement (and I have gas furnace/water heater in the
basement).
Mike
--
mikeballard at symbol verizon period net
"If your main parachute fouls, deploy your reserve. If your
reserve is also fouled, you have the rest of your life to get
it straightened out."