I have recently bought the GO513 bandsaw {17 "}from grizzly. My
problem lies with the gap between the support bearing and the blade.
When tensioned it runs smoothly between the guide bearings but rather
has a gap that changes between the support bearing when running. I set
the support bearing with the recommended 0.016 gap but when I turn the
wheel by hand or under power it has a 1/8 " gap from one part of the
blade to the other. I have tried 4 differnt blades, all cheap ones
from Grizzly, and the bigger the blade the worse it gets. The 1/4"
blade is okay but the 3/4 and 1" blade are terrible.When I turn on the
machine I can watch the gap grow and become small agian with every
revelution. My question is then is it the cheap blades or is something
out of whack, or maybe the way I am doing sometheng wrong in the
setup. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You.
Byron,
It sounds to me like the blade is out of line. This is common at the weld.
Even the best blades will sometimes have some out-of-trueness where the
blade is welded.... the cheaper the blade, the worse it will be. It won;t
affect your cuts much unless you're resawing, and even then, only it you're
resawing thin critical veneers.
Of course, it could be your upper wheel or, more likely, the tires. But my
money is on the blade.
Larry
--
Americans
[email protected]
"Byron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have recently bought the GO513 bandsaw {17 "}from grizzly. My
> problem lies with the gap between the support bearing and the blade.
> When tensioned it runs smoothly between the guide bearings but rather
> has a gap that changes between the support bearing when running. I set
> the support bearing with the recommended 0.016 gap but when I turn the
> wheel by hand or under power it has a 1/8 " gap from one part of the
> blade to the other. I have tried 4 differnt blades, all cheap ones
> from Grizzly, and the bigger the blade the worse it gets. The 1/4"
> blade is okay but the 3/4 and 1" blade are terrible.When I turn on the
> machine I can watch the gap grow and become small agian with every
> revelution. My question is then is it the cheap blades or is something
> out of whack, or maybe the way I am doing sometheng wrong in the
> setup. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You.
start by putting the worst blade down on a flat surface and see if it
lies flat in the area of the weld. I had a cheap 3/4" blade that jumped
all over the place...
BTW, isn't EVERYTHING from Grizzly cheap? <g>
dave
Byron wrote:
> I have recently bought the GO513 bandsaw {17 "}from grizzly. My
> problem lies with the gap between the support bearing and the blade.
> When tensioned it runs smoothly between the guide bearings but rather
> has a gap that changes between the support bearing when running. I set
> the support bearing with the recommended 0.016 gap but when I turn the
> wheel by hand or under power it has a 1/8 " gap from one part of the
> blade to the other. I have tried 4 differnt blades, all cheap ones
> from Grizzly, and the bigger the blade the worse it gets. The 1/4"
> blade is okay but the 3/4 and 1" blade are terrible.When I turn on the
> machine I can watch the gap grow and become small agian with every
> revelution. My question is then is it the cheap blades or is something
> out of whack, or maybe the way I am doing sometheng wrong in the
> setup. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You.
Put a mic on your whels, and turn them by hand.
See if the are out of round. Some tires are pretty bad.
"Byron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have recently bought the GO513 bandsaw {17 "}from grizzly. My
> problem lies with the gap between the support bearing and the blade.
> When tensioned it runs smoothly between the guide bearings but rather
> has a gap that changes between the support bearing when running. I set
> the support bearing with the recommended 0.016 gap but when I turn the
> wheel by hand or under power it has a 1/8 " gap from one part of the
> blade to the other. I have tried 4 differnt blades, all cheap ones
> from Grizzly, and the bigger the blade the worse it gets. The 1/4"
> blade is okay but the 3/4 and 1" blade are terrible.When I turn on the
> machine I can watch the gap grow and become small agian with every
> revelution. My question is then is it the cheap blades or is something
> out of whack, or maybe the way I am doing sometheng wrong in the
> setup. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You.
Tracking my bet.
Of course, we know it's useless to worry about such things, but start by
aligning a la Duginskie and see if you can't keep the blade from moving with
tension/tracking.
Good luck, and hope yours won't have a slanted upper blade support like our
POS Grizz at school.
"Lawrence R Horgan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Byron,
> It sounds to me like the blade is out of line. This is common at the weld.
> Even the best blades will sometimes have some out-of-trueness where the
> blade is welded.... the cheaper the blade, the worse it will be. It won;t
> affect your cuts much unless you're resawing, and even then, only it
you're
> resawing thin critical veneers.
>
> Of course, it could be your upper wheel or, more likely, the tires. But my
> money is on the blade.
>
> Larry
>
> --
> Americans
> [email protected]
> "Byron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have recently bought the GO513 bandsaw {17 "}from grizzly. My
> > problem lies with the gap between the support bearing and the blade.
> > When tensioned it runs smoothly between the guide bearings but rather
> > has a gap that changes between the support bearing when running. I set
> > the support bearing with the recommended 0.016 gap but when I turn the
> > wheel by hand or under power it has a 1/8 " gap from one part of the
> > blade to the other. I have tried 4 differnt blades, all cheap ones
> > from Grizzly, and the bigger the blade the worse it gets. The 1/4"
> > blade is okay but the 3/4 and 1" blade are terrible.When I turn on the
> > machine I can watch the gap grow and become small agian with every
> > revelution. My question is then is it the cheap blades or is something
> > out of whack, or maybe the way I am doing sometheng wrong in the
> > setup. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You.
>
>
think about it. an out-of-round wheel will cause the blade to loosen and
tighten for each revolution of the wheel. this can cause the blade to
move laterally as well at the blocks and thrust bearing - causing a gap.
the poster did not mention if he had tuned up his saw, insuring the
wheels are co-planar. again, this can cause blade wobble.
i think a good saw tune-up is first and foremost. then a check of the
wheel concentricity (with and without tires) using a dial indicator may
find a problem. cheap blades do tend to have cheap welds, but then again
maybe the welder got it right. laying the blade on a large flat surface
will show if the back of the blade is in total alignment weld-wise.
runout on the wheel bearing can be a culprit too but being a new saw, i
would tend to discount this a problem.
try a good tune up and see what your results are.
Best Regards,
Philski
that would cause a vibration; that's not what the OP was complaining about.
dave
ddinc wrote:
> Put a mic on your whels, and turn them by hand.
> See if the are out of round. Some tires are pretty bad.
>
> "Byron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I have recently bought the GO513 bandsaw {17 "}from grizzly. My
>>problem lies with the gap between the support bearing and the blade.
>>When tensioned it runs smoothly between the guide bearings but rather
>>has a gap that changes between the support bearing when running. I set
>>the support bearing with the recommended 0.016 gap but when I turn the
>>wheel by hand or under power it has a 1/8 " gap from one part of the
>>blade to the other. I have tried 4 differnt blades, all cheap ones
>>from Grizzly, and the bigger the blade the worse it gets. The 1/4"
>>blade is okay but the 3/4 and 1" blade are terrible.When I turn on the
>>machine I can watch the gap grow and become small agian with every
>>revelution. My question is then is it the cheap blades or is something
>>out of whack, or maybe the way I am doing sometheng wrong in the
>>setup. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You.
>
>
>
"Lawrence R Horgan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Byron,
> It sounds to me like the blade is out of line. This is common at the weld.
> Even the best blades will sometimes have some out-of-trueness where the
> blade is welded.... the cheaper the blade, the worse it will be. It won;t
> affect your cuts much unless you're resawing, and even then, only it
you're
> resawing thin critical veneers.
>
> Of course, it could be your upper wheel or, more likely, the tires. But my
> money is on the blade.
It would seem to me that it it were the tires/wheels causing the problem the
period of the in/out motion of the blade relative the the thust baring would
be a function of the wheel rotation (e.g. one in/out cycle per wheel
rotation). It the problem is a non-linear weld, the period would be a
function of the blade rotation(e.g. one in/out cycle per blade rotation).
Using this approach it should be possible to narrow the problem to "the
blade" or "something else".
-Steve
>
>