Pine Flooring

Jay <[email protected]> wrote:
: Hi All....

: Hoping those of you with some experience can help...I'm working a
: building a small workshop (10 x 10 stand alone outdoor building) and
: was thinking of using 1 x 6 pine boards to cover the floor (which is
: currently 1/2" OSB over 2 x 8 joists) I was planning to leave an
: intentional gap between the boards which would then be filled with
: either mortar, concrete or a silicon based product.

: Thoughts..anyone.

: Cheers

: Jay

Hi Jay,

Well...if you really want to fill those gaps, the obvious choice is
boat caulk. Sikaflex is one. There are others. They come in the tubes
you use with caulking guns. You can ge it in a few colors. black,
dark brown, white.

It's designed to flex with planke movement in carvel planked
boats. Wood will move during sailing or when the boat is hauled for
the season and the planks shrink during winter.

If you choose to use this stuff there are a few tricks. If you get it
on yoru clothes it's there for good. If you get it on the wood
surface you'll have to plane the surface.

so what some people do is to lay masking tape on either side of the
gap. With this stuff, to get the caulk down into the gap, you PUSH the
caulking gun. Not pull.

Then after you've caulked the gap you can run somethign like a
popsicle stick end and take out some of the caulk. This will leave a
slight depression in the caulk. When the planks swell, the depression
becomes level.

Naturally you only use that trick if you are laying the floor during
the dry months.

After caulking then you lift the tape.

If I lay wide pine flooring in my kitchen this is what I will do. I
don't want spilled food to get into the cracks.

Best of luck


--- Gregg

My woodworking projects:


Replicas of 15th-19th century nautical navigational instruments:

http://home.comcast.net/~saville/backstaffhome.html

Restoration of my 82 year old Herreshoff S-Boat sailboat:

http://home.comcast.net/~saville/SBOATrestore.htm

Steambending FAQ with photos:

http://home.comcast.net/~saville/Steambend.htm


"Improvise, adapt, overcome."
[email protected]
Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics
Phone: (617) 496-1558

Wilson Lamb <[email protected]> wrote:
: Lay 'em tight.
: Get to work.
: WL

If he lays them tightly in the Winter, he may have a serious problem
in the summer. If he lays them tighly in the Summer, he'll have gaps
in the Winter.


--- Gregg

My woodworking projects:


Replicas of 15th-19th century nautical navigational instruments:

http://home.comcast.net/~saville/backstaffhome.html

Restoration of my 82 year old Herreshoff S-Boat sailboat:

http://home.comcast.net/~saville/SBOATrestore.htm

Steambending FAQ with photos:

http://home.comcast.net/~saville/Steambend.htm



"Improvise, adapt, overcome."
[email protected]
Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics
Phone: (617) 496-1558

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA well I don't know since I have no idea what yer
talkin' about ;^)


Eric Ryder <[email protected]> wrote:
: Are you recommending a "modified stationary panic" for our OP? ;)


: "Gregg Germain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
: news:[email protected]...
:>
:>
:> Wilson Lamb <[email protected]> wrote:
:> : Lay 'em tight.
:> : Get to work.
:> : WL
:>
:> If he lays them tightly in the Winter, he may have a serious problem
:> in the summer. If he lays them tighly in the Summer, he'll have gaps
:> in the Winter.
:>
:>
:> --- Gregg
:>
:> My woodworking projects:
:>
:>
:> Replicas of 15th-19th century nautical navigational instruments:
:>
:> http://home.comcast.net/~saville/backstaffhome.html
:>
:> Restoration of my 82 year old Herreshoff S-Boat sailboat:
:>
:> http://home.comcast.net/~saville/SBOATrestore.htm
:>
:> Steambending FAQ with photos:
:>
:> http://home.comcast.net/~saville/Steambend.htm
:>
:>
:>
:> "Improvise, adapt, overcome."
:> [email protected]
:> Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics
:> Phone: (617) 496-1558
:>



--


--- Gregg
"Improvise, adapt, overcome."
[email protected]
Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics
Phone: (617) 496-1558

On 11 Jan 2004 20:12:07 -0800, [email protected] (Jay) wrote:

>was thinking of using 1 x 6 pine boards to cover the floor

How hard is the grade of pine you're planning on ?

>I was planning to leave an intentional gap between the boards

Why ?

I'd consider tonguing and grooving them, just to keep draughts down.

>which would then be filled with
>either mortar, concrete or a silicon based product.

I have no idea how to reliably fill gaps between floorboards. No
matter what you use, there's always a problems with shrinkage and gaps
forming. Mortar certainly won't, PVA glue and sawdust shrinks over
time.
--
Do whales have krillfiles ?

[email protected] (Jay) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
<snip>
> I was planning to leave an
> intentional gap between the boards which would then be filled with
> either mortar, concrete or a silicon based product.

Small gaps are fine, fillers are not. If you want to avoid drafts,
then use an underlayer.

H.

On 11 Jan 2004 20:12:07 -0800, [email protected] (Jay) wrote:

>Hi All....
>
>Hoping those of you with some experience can help...I'm working a
>building a small workshop (10 x 10 stand alone outdoor building) and
>was thinking of using 1 x 6 pine boards to cover the floor (which is
>currently 1/2" OSB over 2 x 8 joists) I was planning to leave an
>intentional gap between the boards which would then be filled with
>either mortar, concrete or a silicon based product.

why?



>
>Thoughts..anyone.
>
>Cheers
>
>Jay

"Jay" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All....
>
> Hoping those of you with some experience can help...I'm working a
> building a small workshop (10 x 10 stand alone outdoor building) and
> was thinking of using 1 x 6 pine boards to cover the floor (which is
> currently 1/2" OSB over 2 x 8 joists) I was planning to leave an
> intentional gap between the boards which would then be filled with
> either mortar, concrete or a silicon based product.
>
> Thoughts..anyone.
>
> Cheers
>
> Jay


Mortar and 'crete will come out as the floor flexes and the wood moves. I'd
just lay 'em tight over the OSB.

"James D Kountz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well my guess would be because its a very nice look. There is an antique
> shop down the road from me that did their floors this way, also
distressing
> them at the same time. Looks really good and you would be hard pressed to
> believe the floors arent original 100 year old floors. They used a black
> grout I assume with some expanding properties to fill the gaps of about
3/8"
> or so. Distressed the floors, then went over them with a warm honey
colored
> stain. Very impressive to say the least.
>
> Jim

Being a remodeler, I've run into that black grout before - it's pretty
impressive stuff just not available anymore. The oldtimer formula for
making it at home is:
Lay pine floor tightly. Use it hard, make lots of marks for that distressed
look.
When the boards shrink, sweep it regularly - leaving the dirt in the gaps.
Make it shiny! Try that new floor finish - pollyuue...?? um poly. Apply it
over everything, including the dirt in the grooves.
Every twenty years or so freshen it up by sanding (optional) and applying
some more of that polly stuff. Make sure you leave the dust in the grooves
too!

The key here is the sand/dirt - really makes for a durable wear surface
(I've run a router down a few of those grooves, so I know:)


>
>
> > why?
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Thoughts..anyone.
> > >
> > >Cheers
> > >
> > >Jay
> >
>
>

Well my guess would be because its a very nice look. There is an antique
shop down the road from me that did their floors this way, also distressing
them at the same time. Looks really good and you would be hard pressed to
believe the floors arent original 100 year old floors. They used a black
grout I assume with some expanding properties to fill the gaps of about 3/8"
or so. Distressed the floors, then went over them with a warm honey colored
stain. Very impressive to say the least.

Jim


> why?
>
>
>
> >
> >Thoughts..anyone.
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >Jay
>

Are you recommending a "modified stationary panic" for our OP? ;)


"Gregg Germain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Wilson Lamb <[email protected]> wrote:
> : Lay 'em tight.
> : Get to work.
> : WL
>
> If he lays them tightly in the Winter, he may have a serious problem
> in the summer. If he lays them tighly in the Summer, he'll have gaps
> in the Winter.
>
>
> --- Gregg
>
> My woodworking projects:
>
>
> Replicas of 15th-19th century nautical navigational instruments:
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~saville/backstaffhome.html
>
> Restoration of my 82 year old Herreshoff S-Boat sailboat:
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~saville/SBOATrestore.htm
>
> Steambending FAQ with photos:
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~saville/Steambend.htm
>
>
>
> "Improvise, adapt, overcome."
> [email protected]
> Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics
> Phone: (617) 496-1558
>

"James D Kountz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well my guess would be because its a very nice look. There is an antique
> shop down the road from me that did their floors this way, also
distressing
> them at the same time. Looks really good and you would be hard pressed to
> believe the floors arent original 100 year old floors. They used a black
> grout I assume with some expanding properties to fill the gaps of about
3/8"
> or so. Distressed the floors, then went over them with a warm honey
colored
> stain. Very impressive to say the least.
>
> Jim
>
>
> > why?
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Thoughts..anyone.
> > >
> > >Cheers
> > >
> > >Jay
> >
>
>
I really think you have answered your own question. You're building a
WORKSHOP and the floor you like is in an ANTIQUE STORE.
To me the two are diametrically opposed. Want a similar look without the
stress, put down T-111

Dave

As funny as it seems I was asking the same question to our local wood craft
suppliers and I never got the answer we were looking for.( My wife and I are
restoring a 120+ years old house and the pine floor has 10" + boards) and as
they have shrunk we have been left with up 1/2" gaps between them. While
watching a home reno show called "Ask This Old House" They had a viewer ask
this same question and the answer they gave was what we were looking for
because it is what the old timers did to fix their gaps. Take burlap rope
and soak in stain to almost the same color as your floor after drying the
rope off, push this rope into the gap it will take some force . You may have
to change dia. of the rope as the gap distance changes but it is a very good
solution as it will expand and contract with the pine. Hope this helps you
as it did us.

Tim Smith

"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 11 Jan 2004 20:12:07 -0800, [email protected] (Jay) wrote:
>
> >was thinking of using 1 x 6 pine boards to cover the floor
>
> How hard is the grade of pine you're planning on ?
>
> >I was planning to leave an intentional gap between the boards
>
> Why ?
>
> I'd consider tonguing and grooving them, just to keep draughts down.
>
> >which would then be filled with
> >either mortar, concrete or a silicon based product.
>
> I have no idea how to reliably fill gaps between floorboards. No
> matter what you use, there's always a problems with shrinkage and gaps
> forming. Mortar certainly won't, PVA glue and sawdust shrinks over
> time.
> --
> Do whales have krillfiles ?

Lay 'em tight.
Get to work.
WL
"Jay" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All....
>
> Hoping those of you with some experience can help...I'm working a
> building a small workshop (10 x 10 stand alone outdoor building) and
> was thinking of using 1 x 6 pine boards to cover the floor (which is
> currently 1/2" OSB over 2 x 8 joists) I was planning to leave an
> intentional gap between the boards which would then be filled with
> either mortar, concrete or a silicon based product.
>
> Thoughts..anyone.
>
> Cheers
>
> Jay