Thanks all for the opinions on dying. I'm not so sure now. My intent was
to strip down the stock to base wood and dye it a medium gray - not sure
about the topcoat. If the dyes are going to obliterate the already subtle
grain that may not be the best choicere. Most of the scratches are in the
topcoat and have not gone into the laid-on stain. Is there a way to remedy
this without getting into the superficial colorant? BTW, thanks again for
the help thus far.
"C & E" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> >
> > "C & E" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> Thanks all for the opinions on dying. I'm not so sure now. My intent
> >> was to strip down the stock to base wood and dye it a medium gray - not
> >> sure about the topcoat. If the dyes are going to obliterate the
already
> >> subtle grain that may not be the best choicere. Most of the scratches
> >> are in the topcoat and have not gone into the laid-on stain. Is there
a
> >> way to remedy this without getting into the superficial colorant? BTW,
> >> thanks again for the help thus far.
>
> >Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]....
> > Not without knowing what it is. Lacquers can be repaired, varnishes
can't
> > be; but even then you have to know what the lacquer was.
> >
> > If you don't want to sand it down, as you should, try sanding gently
with
> > fine grit and putting some shellac on. Might work, who knows...
> Who knows, indeed. Not me - LOL. The sarin finish is on a 12 year old
> economy gun so I'm
> thinking its in the poly realm (where/ whatever that is). It seems pretty
> durable but that doesn't
> tell us anything, does it. It also seems to be layed on pretty heavy,
> considering the depth of the
> scratches without getting into the wood - colorant still present. Thanks
> for the follow-up!
>
>
If the scratches do not go through the clear coat (whatever it is), you can
sand it down with a fine sandpaper - 1000 grit or so... maybe even 600 if
you're careful, until you get down to the level of the scratches. Once you
get the scratches out, move up to 1200 or 1500 grit and just sand enough to
remove the scratches from the previous sanding. A little rubbing compound
will take it up to a smooth finish with a shine. If you want more of a
satin finish than a shine, then degloss with a little steel wool.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
>
> "C & E" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Thanks all for the opinions on dying. I'm not so sure now. My intent
>> was to strip down the stock to base wood and dye it a medium gray - not
>> sure about the topcoat. If the dyes are going to obliterate the already
>> subtle grain that may not be the best choicere. Most of the scratches
>> are in the topcoat and have not gone into the laid-on stain. Is there a
>> way to remedy this without getting into the superficial colorant? BTW,
>> thanks again for the help thus far.
>Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]....
> Not without knowing what it is. Lacquers can be repaired, varnishes can't
> be; but even then you have to know what the lacquer was.
>
> If you don't want to sand it down, as you should, try sanding gently with
> fine grit and putting some shellac on. Might work, who knows...
Who knows, indeed. Not me - LOL. The sarin finish is on a 12 year old
economy gun so I'm
thinking its in the poly realm (where/ whatever that is). It seems pretty
durable but that doesn't
tell us anything, does it. It also seems to be layed on pretty heavy,
considering the depth of the
scratches without getting into the wood - colorant still present. Thanks
for the follow-up!
"C & E" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks all for the opinions on dying. I'm not so sure now. My intent was
> to strip down the stock to base wood and dye it a medium gray - not sure
> about the topcoat. If the dyes are going to obliterate the already subtle
> grain that may not be the best choicere. Most of the scratches are in the
> topcoat and have not gone into the laid-on stain. Is there a way to
> remedy this without getting into the superficial colorant? BTW, thanks
> again for the help thus far.
Not without knowing what it is. Lacquers can be repaired, varnishes can't
be; but even then you have to know what the lacquer was.
If you don't want to sand it down, as you should, try sanding gently with
fine grit and putting some shellac on. Might work, who knows...