Hi All
I'm looking for ideas for a good quality circular saw. I'm just
getting started with woodworking, and aren't looking for the top of
the line--but something good, with the right features, that'll last
for awhile.
I'm likely to buy a new one, but will also peruse Ebay to see whats
there as well.
Also, what features/amps/size/etc do you feel are necessary? Until I
purchase a table saw, this'll be it for now.
Lastly...best brand recommendations?
All advice is appreciated!
Thanx,
Dave
Gents,
Great feedback thus far...very helpful!
Allow me to elaborate a bit--and add a couple more questions.
I truly AM a novice WW'er, and early on will be using the circ. saw in
place of a table saw (which I hope to purchase in the next year or
so), mostly for low-level cutting. I don't foresee heavy-duty needs at
this point.
Reading thru the responses has created some additional
questions--primarily due to my inexperience. Explanation (keep it
simple) is appreciated.
--What is a "worm drive", and how will I know one when I see one-and
why would I need this?
--Bearings? Bushings? Whats their role--and how do they determine the
saws quality? And how will I spot the better ones?
--Terms like "end play" and "runout" were mentioned (bad things). What
are these?
--What types of blades are best for different applications? I assume
the more teeth, the smoother the cut...is this true?
Finally, an update: Thru some "bonus points" I earned with my
company, I had a choice of various products...including tools.
Nothing else was very appealing, so with my "points" I chose the only
circular saw listed--a B&D 12amp (no model #), and also a B&D rotary
tool that comes with a variety of bits.
I get the impression this is pretty cheap stuff--but will it do? Or
should I just immediately post it on eBay, and hope to make enough for
a dinner at Olive Garden?
Thanks, & keep the good advice coming,
Dave
dmchace@Comcast(nospam).com
You will not go wrong with the Porter Cable or the Dewalt. I have a 10 year
old Porter Cable that is great. There is no detectable end play or run out
in the blade. The weak points in such saws can be the bearings (avoid one
with bushings) and obviously the motor. Don't pay much attention to the
advertised horsepower, but look at the rated amps. IIRC, the PC is an 11 amp
machine.
Hitachi has been putting out some of the highest amp rated tools recently. I
have a Hitachi bayonet saw (sawzall) that is a 13 amp too;. It has been a
good tool. I would not be afraid of their circular saw.
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All
>
> I'm looking for ideas for a good quality circular saw. I'm just
> getting started with woodworking, and aren't looking for the top of
> the line--but something good, with the right features, that'll last
> for awhile.
> I'm likely to buy a new one, but will also peruse Ebay to see whats
> there as well.
>
> Also, what features/amps/size/etc do you feel are necessary? Until I
> purchase a table saw, this'll be it for now.
>
> Lastly...best brand recommendations?
> All advice is appreciated!
>
> Thanx,
> Dave
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On 1 Jan 2004 21:47:49 -0800, [email protected] (Dave) wrote:
>
> >I'm looking for ideas for a good quality circular saw.
>
> Screw the features, shop for brands. There aren't many features on
> one saw rather than another, but there is a variation in manufacturer
> quality.
>
> I won;t suggest brands, as you're American and I'm not familiar with
> the locals. But the mid-range Skil Legend / Classic is a good saw for
> that size range, and the thumb lift for the guard is neat.
>
> Like all saws, they're only a motor to turn the blade. Look seriously
> at blade quality, because that's what really matters. A selection of
> blades is important if this is your only saw; rip, crosscut and
> plywood.
Hi, Andy.
One very useful feature is a dynamic brake- wouldn't be without it.
Well-balanced motor with good torque characteristic from start (don't
jump about) to full load is also a very good thing (TM M. Stewart.)
You really want to try before buy, if possible.
Some (notice I said _some_) of the Skil saws sold here in the USofA
are purely disposable PsOS. Need more than brand to go by. (Like,
model and today's price.)
Regards,
John
On 3 Jan 2004 20:13:16 -0800, [email protected] (Dave) wrote:
>Gents,
>
>Great feedback thus far...very helpful!
>Allow me to elaborate a bit--and add a couple more questions.
>
>I truly AM a novice WW'er, and early on will be using the circ. saw in
>place of a table saw (which I hope to purchase in the next year or
>so), mostly for low-level cutting. I don't foresee heavy-duty needs at
>this point.
>
>Reading thru the responses has created some additional
>questions--primarily due to my inexperience. Explanation (keep it
>simple) is appreciated.
>
>--What is a "worm drive",
a worm drive is a mechanical system for changing the direction and
speed of a shaft. it involves two very strange looking gears: one
looks like a barber pole (the worm) and the other looks more like what
you might think a gear should look like. this is the drive system used
between the blade and motor of saws like the skil77 and makita hypoid
saw.
> and how will I know one when I see one-and
>why would I need this?
you won't see the worm drive unless you take the saw apart. ; ^ )
here's what a skil77 looks like (on the outside)
http://www.skil.com/Products/Tools/Circular+Saws/product.htm?id=HD77
>--Bearings? Bushings? Whats their role--and how do they determine the
>saws quality? And how will I spot the better ones?
bearings and bushings support and orient the rotating parts. once
again, these are internal parts. for a handheld saw you will want
pretty much all ball and roller bearings. avoid saws with bushings.
>--Terms like "end play" and "runout" were mentioned (bad things). What
>are these?
end play is the looseness of a shaft (like the one holding your saw
blade) parallel to its axis. runout is eccentricity perpendicular to
the shaft's axis.
>--What types of blades are best for different applications? I assume
>the more teeth, the smoother the cut...is this true?
sort of. this is a pretty broad field. I'd recommend you go to a real
tool store- one that supplies tools to the woodworking trades, not
home despot or mall wart and talk to the folks there for a while.
>
>Finally, an update: Thru some "bonus points" I earned with my
>company, I had a choice of various products...including tools.
>Nothing else was very appealing, so with my "points" I chose the only
>circular saw listed--a B&D 12amp (no model #), and also a B&D rotary
>tool that comes with a variety of bits.
>
>I get the impression this is pretty cheap stuff--but will it do? Or
>should I just immediately post it on eBay, and hope to make enough for
>a dinner at Olive Garden?
I think I'd keep 'em and use them up. pretty soon your skill level
will exceed what those tools can do. when that happens you can either
give them away or do something like put an abrasive blade on the saw
and use it for cutting metal or concrete. that'll kill it off
quick....
meanwhile you'll be getting a little time in trying out a saw.
>
>Thanks, & keep the good advice coming,
>Dave
>dmchace@Comcast(nospam).com
Dave-
How much $$ are you willing to spend? (that's the first question
everyone will ask)
Honestly, when I was first married I bought a $50 Craftsman special (7
1/4") on sale for $35. It worked great through six years of
intermittent use and about 110' of fence building. Then it started
making a sorta "grindy-grindy noise". (oh, and the sparks started
getting very visible through the motor housing..)
Ryobi makes a nice $50 saw that I considered, but I oped to buy a
PorterCable 743K for about $120. At that price point, you pretty much
have your choice of very good saws that should last a looong time and
be very satisfying to use. (Porter Cable, Milwaulkie (sp?), Makita,
Dewalt - take your pick) The only thing I would change about mine is
the blade-height lever is placed between the motor and blade housing,
and it's awkward/hard to flip it up to change the depth of cut.
Don't make your decision based on 12 vs 13 amps. 7.25" is the
"standard" size. Weight may be a concern (holding a 15lb vs 10lb saw
overhead to snip off fence posts did make a difference) =^)
Good luck!
-Aaron
[email protected] (Dave) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hi All
>
> I'm looking for ideas for a good quality circular saw. I'm just
> getting started with woodworking, and aren't looking for the top of
> the line--but something good, with the right features, that'll last
> for awhile.
> I'm likely to buy a new one, but will also peruse Ebay to see whats
> there as well.
>
> Also, what features/amps/size/etc do you feel are necessary? Until I
> purchase a table saw, this'll be it for now.
>
> Lastly...best brand recommendations?
> All advice is appreciated!
>
> Thanx,
> Dave
Consider buying a used Skil77 worm drive. They can be had for
35-50 bucks at most used tool/pawn shops. The blade is on the
left so you can see your cut line. "Sidewinders" (non-worm drive saws)
are noted for their propensity to kick back in your face should
they bind up--I personally think they are the most dangerous of all
hand-held power tools we use. Worm drives are mostly heavy--13+
pounds--but this is sometimes an advantage when it's in a heavy cut,
such as full-depth cutting on a 6x6 post. Don't get me wrong, one of
my saws is an 8 1/4" Super Sawcat-a sidewinder-with a 40 tooth blade.
If buying used, plug 'er in and listen to it run---shouldn't be any
growling noises, rumbling noises, etc..
I worked construction for years--never wore out a worm-drive. An
occaisional brush change and changing lube in the gearcase is all that's
really needed/
Roger
Doug Winterburn <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Fri, 02 Jan 2004 17:34:06 +0000, Ed G wrote:
>
> > Most people I know don't use a circular saw for finished work. My advice is
> > to buy a cheap one; Skil, some store-brand, whatever. Here in Canada you
> > can get one for $20-$30 if you watch for a sale. That'll save you enough
> > to get a couple of decent blades. Get at least one blade with a high
> > tooth-count. By the time you have this saw worn out, you'll know exactly
> > what you want in a saw and it will be much easier to just go out and buy it
> > (except for the paying part, because really good is usually really
> > expensive). I don't think a circular saw will ever really replace a table
> > saw. Good luck.
>
> I agree that in general, the circular saw will never replace the table
> saw. However, it does have the capability as witnessed by many Festool
> owners.
>
> -Doug
"Bridger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 3 Jan 2004 20:13:16 -0800, [email protected] (Dave) wrote:
>
> >Gents,
> >
--------------8<-----------------snip
> >--What is a "worm drive",
>
> a worm drive is a mechanical system for changing the direction and
> speed of a shaft. it involves two very strange looking gears: one
> looks like a barber pole (the worm) and the other looks more like what
> you might think a gear should look like. this is the drive system used
> between the blade and motor of saws like the skil77 and makita hypoid
> saw.
>
>
>
>
>
> > and how will I know one when I see one-and
> >why would I need this?
>
> you won't see the worm drive unless you take the saw apart. ; ^ )
> here's what a skil77 looks like (on the outside)
> http://www.skil.com/Products/Tools/Circular+Saws/product.htm?id=HD77
>
More importantly to you, you won't need a saw this heavy, a conventional saw
will suffice. The only reason I have one is because a carpenter friend of
mine gave me his old one after cutting through the cord for the third time
(now 10" long) and after a first floor fall and a second floor fall (now has
a bent shoe and adjustments, and no top handle). It still runs like a mad
bull, I use it for demolition, cutting masonry and metal.
Steve
----------------8<--------------snipped
On 2004/1/3 9:43 AM, "Tim Mueller" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Well, as with chain saws, the "theory" has been that you don't wnt the cut
> in front of your body, so that if something does jump you're not the first
> thing in the way. Having had off-cuts go whizzing by my head, I will vouch
> that this applies to table saws, too.
>
> "Mike Iglesias" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> In article <uEgJb.231339$J77.62822@fed1read07>,
>> Steve <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Look for a good heavy base plate (shoe). Look for a decent amp rating on
>>> the motor. Look to see how the machine feels in you hand(s). Look to see
>>> where the dust shoots out from. Look at everything, for that matter --
>>> including price! Is a left blade more comfortable to you than a right
>>> blade? Does that even matter?
>>
>> Are there advantages to left vs right blade saws? I'm right-handed if
> that
>> matters.
>>
I don't understand how Tim's comment about kickback applies to a hand held
circular saw. In all of them that I have used, the part of the blade that
does the cutting is moving away from the operator. The sawdust chute is a
different issue. You do want to make sure that this is pointed away from the
user.
Back to the original question - I am right handed and prefer left mounted
blades. This gives me better visibility of the cut. With a right mounted
blade, I feel that I have to lean over to see what is happening. Also, the
left mount blade gives better support for the saw in the way I frequently
use one, which is with the work piece supported on saw horses or a work
table and the smaller cutoff portion sticking out to the left where I can
hold it with my left hand. That way, the saw base rides on the portion that
is supproted.
On 2004/1/3 11:23 AM, "Bridger" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 03 Jan 2004 11:04:05 -0500, Bob Haar <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> I don't understand how Tim's comment about kickback applies to a hand held
>> circular saw. In all of them that I have used, the part of the blade that
>> does the cutting is moving away from the operator. The sawdust chute is a
>> different issue. You do want to make sure that this is pointed away from the
>> user.
>
> when a handheld circ kicks back the saw comes flying at you, not the
> wood.... it also tends to flip upside down as it comes.
I have never had that happen, but see how it is possible.
However, you deleted the part that I was responding to where the previous
poster talked about Cut-offs flying past your head. That is what I was
responding to. If a cut-off does go flying, it is much more likely to go
away from you.
>
>>
>> Back to the original question - I am right handed and prefer left mounted
>> blades. This gives me better visibility of the cut. With a right mounted
>> blade, I feel that I have to lean over to see what is happening.
>
> with a lot of sidewinders there is a line of sight available to the
> left side of the blade right where the teeth engage the wood.
For me, the motor is usually in the way unless I lean way over the top of
the saw or get way off to the side. But with a left-hand blade, I can see
most of the saw line and where the saw is currently.
>
>
>
>> Also, the
>> left mount blade gives better support for the saw in the way I frequently
>> use one, which is with the work piece supported on saw horses or a work
>> table and the smaller cutoff portion sticking out to the left where I can
>> hold it with my left hand. That way, the saw base rides on the portion that
>> is supproted.
>
>
>
> I find that about half of the time I need to work from the other
> side....
Different strokes - the point is to understand your own patterns of work and
pick tools that fit your style.
Well, as with chain saws, the "theory" has been that you don't wnt the cut
in front of your body, so that if something does jump you're not the first
thing in the way. Having had off-cuts go whizzing by my head, I will vouch
that this applies to table saws, too.
"Mike Iglesias" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <uEgJb.231339$J77.62822@fed1read07>,
> Steve <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Look for a good heavy base plate (shoe). Look for a decent amp rating on
> >the motor. Look to see how the machine feels in you hand(s). Look to see
> >where the dust shoots out from. Look at everything, for that matter --
> >including price! Is a left blade more comfortable to you than a right
> >blade? Does that even matter?
>
> Are there advantages to left vs right blade saws? I'm right-handed if
that
> matters.
>
>
> --
> Mike Iglesias Email:
[email protected]
> University of California, Irvine phone: 949-824-6926
> Network & Academic Computing Services FAX: 949-824-2069
[email protected] (Dave) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
Makita makes a good circular saw, I think the model number is 5007FK.
I've owned this saw for 3 years, and have been very happy with it. It
has plenty of power, the adjustemnets for depth and bevel angle are
very easy, and to me the visibility to the front tip of the blade is a
little better on this saw than some the others in this class. It
comes with a good quality blade as well, and an edge guide, at least
when I bought mine it did.
Top of the line in circular saws generally means a worm drive saw like
the Skil model 77 or Makita hypoid saws. Those saws are high torque,
but heavier to handle. If you're cutting framing lumber all day long,
you might consider one of those, but for plywood, or 3/4" material,
they may be overkill.
Other brands I'd look at...? Milwaukee, Bosch, Dewalt, Porter
Cable... they all make good tools. I would stay away from anything at
the low end like B&D, Craftsman, Ryobi, Rigid.
Also, consider a long edge guide like a clamp-n-guide to go with your
circular saw. I think you'll find it very useful to make straight and
accurate cuts.
On 2 Jan 2004 08:48:12 -0800, [email protected] (aaron) wrote:
> (Porter Cable, Milwaulkie (sp?), Makita,
>Dewalt - take your pick)
for heavy duty use the skil77 has been the choice of pros for a long
time. I saw in a catalog last night that bosch has an offering in the
worm drive saw market now. it looks good, as far as one could tell
from looking at a picture in a catalog.... and bosch is asking two
hunnert clamz for it, so I guess they want us to think it is good.
anybody here used one of these yet?
Bridger
In article <uEgJb.231339$J77.62822@fed1read07>,
Steve <[email protected]> wrote:
>Look for a good heavy base plate (shoe). Look for a decent amp rating on
>the motor. Look to see how the machine feels in you hand(s). Look to see
>where the dust shoots out from. Look at everything, for that matter --
>including price! Is a left blade more comfortable to you than a right
>blade? Does that even matter?
Are there advantages to left vs right blade saws? I'm right-handed if that
matters.
--
Mike Iglesias Email: [email protected]
University of California, Irvine phone: 949-824-6926
Network & Academic Computing Services FAX: 949-824-2069
On 1 Jan 2004 21:47:49 -0800, [email protected] (Dave) wrote:
>I'm looking for ideas for a good quality circular saw.
Screw the features, shop for brands. There aren't many features on
one saw rather than another, but there is a variation in manufacturer
quality.
I won;t suggest brands, as you're American and I'm not familiar with
the locals. But the mid-range Skil Legend / Classic is a good saw for
that size range, and the thumb lift for the guard is neat.
Like all saws, they're only a motor to turn the blade. Look seriously
at blade quality, because that's what really matters. A selection of
blades is important if this is your only saw; rip, crosscut and
plywood.
--
Congrats to STBL on his elevation from TLA to ETLA
[email protected] (Dave) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hi All
>
> I'm looking for ideas for a good quality circular saw. I'm just
> getting started with woodworking, and aren't looking for the top of
> the line--but something good, with the right features, that'll last
> for awhile.
> I'm likely to buy a new one, but will also peruse Ebay to see whats
> there as well.
>
> Also, what features/amps/size/etc do you feel are necessary? Until I
> purchase a table saw, this'll be it for now.
>
> Lastly...best brand recommendations?
> All advice is appreciated!
>
> Thanx,
> Dave
Hi Dave,
congrats to your new hobby.
As for the circular saw, what will be the applications of the saw and
how much are you willing to spend?
I've read many different comments on circular saws during the last
year and can say that there are probably many good saws available.
Anyway, there are two exeptional brands in my opinion: Festool and
Mafell.
If your budget is limited and you don't want to use the circular for
finish work you might be better of with one of the normal circular
saws. You can even tune them if you need more accuracy.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00035.asp
However, if you want precision right from the start I'd recommend to
check out the Mafell and the Festool saws.
http://www.festool-usa.com/portando/index.cfm (site seems to be down
at the moment)
http://www.mafell.com/
As for the Mafell, I'd look at the KST 55 and the KSP 40 Flexistem.
Personally, I use a Festool plunge saw and really like it.
I'm in the process of writing a review and here's the beginning:
1) What is so special about this saw?
- The ATF 55 is a plunge saw, not a simple circular saw. The
advantages of this type of saw are that you can plunge into the middle
of wood (for example for glass parts of doors) and more safety because
of the better protected blade.
- Festool offers a unique guide rail system which can also be used for
the Festool jigsaw and the Festool router. These guide rails work
deadly accurate and ensure precision and high-quality cuts. Festool
offers a wide range of accessories for the rails. The most important
ones are available as a package (in a systainer).
- Extremely high quality blade which allows cuts without tear out even
in melamine.
- Almost dust-less operation if hooked up to a vac (I recommend the
Festool CT models).
2) Why should someone want such a saw?
- Well, my shop is pretty small and I don't have the space for a table
saw. But, of course, I want as much accuracy as possible, so the ATF
is the way to go because it ensures precise high-quality cuts if used
with the guide rails.
- Even if you have a large table saw, sheets are always a pain to
handle. And cutting the sheets to size with a circular saw and then
make precise cuts with the table saw is a waste of time and if you are
a professional a waste of money, too.
- Have to trim a door on a jobsite? - Take out the ATF, a guide rail
and the job is done within a few minutes. Hardly any dust, hardly any
clean up and a smiling customer.
3) Typical Festool features:
- Systainers - the most useful stackable case for tools and
accessories
- 3 year warranty
- 30 days money back warranty
- System philosophy: As mentioned above the rails can be used for
jigsaw, plunge saw and router. And there's also a special worktable,
which uses the rails. Suction hose fits the dust port on all Festool's
without adapter.
You might also like to check out the following reviews and comments:
http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/Festool/FestoolIndex.html
http://www.cjohnhebert.com/toolreviews.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/men-fes.htm
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/festool_atf_55e_part1.htm
Whenever I have questions regarding the Festool line, I email Bob
Marino at [email protected] Bob is hobby woodworker and Festool ISA.
Due to the fact that he uses the tools himself he has an incredible
knowledge. Many folks on the net buy from him and are nothing but
happy with his service.
I can assure you that I don't work for Festool or revieve any money
from them. I'm a satisfied customer and wanted to pass this on.
Regards,
Christian Aufreiter, Austria
On Fri, 02 Jan 2004 17:34:06 +0000, Ed G wrote:
> Most people I know don't use a circular saw for finished work. My advice is
> to buy a cheap one; Skil, some store-brand, whatever. Here in Canada you
> can get one for $20-$30 if you watch for a sale. That'll save you enough
> to get a couple of decent blades. Get at least one blade with a high
> tooth-count. By the time you have this saw worn out, you'll know exactly
> what you want in a saw and it will be much easier to just go out and buy it
> (except for the paying part, because really good is usually really
> expensive). I don't think a circular saw will ever really replace a table
> saw. Good luck.
I agree that in general, the circular saw will never replace the table
saw. However, it does have the capability as witnessed by many Festool
owners.
-Doug
[email protected] (Tom Hintz) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> You can find good and bad circle saws for about the same money.
I keep wishing for a quiet one, because I'm tired of putting
on earplugs :-)
ken
Most people I know don't use a circular saw for finished work. My advice is
to buy a cheap one; Skil, some store-brand, whatever. Here in Canada you
can get one for $20-$30 if you watch for a sale. That'll save you enough
to get a couple of decent blades. Get at least one blade with a high
tooth-count. By the time you have this saw worn out, you'll know exactly
what you want in a saw and it will be much easier to just go out and buy it
(except for the paying part, because really good is usually really
expensive). I don't think a circular saw will ever really replace a table
saw. Good luck.
Ed
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All
>
> I'm looking for ideas for a good quality circular saw. I'm just
> getting started with woodworking, and aren't looking for the top of
> the line--but something good, with the right features, that'll last
> for awhile.
> I'm likely to buy a new one, but will also peruse Ebay to see whats
> there as well.
>
> Also, what features/amps/size/etc do you feel are necessary? Until I
> purchase a table saw, this'll be it for now.
>
> Lastly...best brand recommendations?
> All advice is appreciated!
>
> Thanx,
> Dave
I respectfully disagree.
Sure, if you're just gonna slice some 2x4s or do other kinds of
carpentry, on occassion, get a cheapie.
If you're gonna try to do ww'g, spend the extra for a decent saw.
There're adjustments (squaring up the blade to the base, for example)
on a good saw not found on the cheap ones that are important. Other
features include a better, heavier base plate. Better bearings,
prolly. Don't need to go all the way to the Skil wormdrive saw (which
is heavy), but for just over $100, you can get something pretty dang
good.
I often use the circular saw to cut plywood sheets to more manageable
sizes, since I have a hard time handling a full sheet on the table
saw. Don't want an out of square, etc. cut here to add to
aggravations.
Depends what you're gonna be using it for and how often. But, if you
can afford it, I'd reccommend the splurge for a better quality saw.
Renata
On Fri, 02 Jan 2004 17:34:06 GMT, "Ed G" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Most people I know don't use a circular saw for finished work. My advice is
>to buy a cheap one; Skil, some store-brand, whatever. Here in Canada you
>can get one for $20-$30 if you watch for a sale. That'll save you enough
>to get a couple of decent blades. Get at least one blade with a high
>tooth-count. By the time you have this saw worn out, you'll know exactly
>what you want in a saw and it will be much easier to just go out and buy it
>(except for the paying part, because really good is usually really
>expensive). I don't think a circular saw will ever really replace a table
>saw. Good luck.
>
>Ed
>
>
>"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Hi All
>>
>> I'm looking for ideas for a good quality circular saw. I'm just
>> getting started with woodworking, and aren't looking for the top of
>> the line--but something good, with the right features, that'll last
>> for awhile.
>> I'm likely to buy a new one, but will also peruse Ebay to see whats
>> there as well.
>>
>> Also, what features/amps/size/etc do you feel are necessary? Until I
>> purchase a table saw, this'll be it for now.
>>
>> Lastly...best brand recommendations?
>> All advice is appreciated!
>>
>> Thanx,
>> Dave
>
smart, not dumb for email
On Sat, 03 Jan 2004 19:43:21 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Bob Haar wrote:
>
>>> when a handheld circ kicks back the saw comes flying at you, not the
>>> wood.... it also tends to flip upside down as it comes.
>>
>> I have never had that happen, but see how it is possible.
>
>I knew a guy that this happened to. He was a contractor & worked with the
>guard pinned because it saved time. (Bad Idea.) A pinch, a flip, and ....
>Years later he still didn't have much grip in that hand.
>
> -- Mark
>
a couple of years ago I think it was someone posted here about a
skilsaw kickback death. the jobsite was rural and kind of far from
emergency services. the saw got the guy in the big artery in the
groin. he didn't have a chance.
On Fri, 2 Jan 2004 09:08:01 -0700, "Steve"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Do NOT "screw the features"!! Take them into account & take them seriously.
Got any good way to judge the bearing quality from outside the box ?
--
Congrats to STBL on his elevation from TLA to ETLA
The Skil 77 is a great saw - remember when we used to call any hand-held
circular saw a "Skilsaw"?
We have a couple of 25 - 30 year old 8 1/4" B&D Super Sawcats that just
won't die (and various framers *have* tried to kill them over the years),
but B&D seems to no longer makes commercial/professional lines, that's
Dewalt's province (Dewalt and B&D have been the same company since the
1950's). I have a circa 1990 Super Sawcat that uses the same parts as the
current Dewalt 8 1/4" circular saw, but I don't think it's built as well as
the old ones. Heck, if the saw never wears out, they can't sell you a new
one ....
"roger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Consider buying a used Skil77 worm drive. They can be had for
> 35-50 bucks at most used tool/pawn shops. The blade is on the
> left so you can see your cut line. "Sidewinders" (non-worm drive saws)
> are noted for their propensity to kick back in your face should
> they bind up--I personally think they are the most dangerous of all
> hand-held power tools we use. Worm drives are mostly heavy--13+
> pounds--but this is sometimes an advantage when it's in a heavy cut,
> such as full-depth cutting on a 6x6 post. Don't get me wrong, one of
> my saws is an 8 1/4" Super Sawcat-a sidewinder-with a 40 tooth blade.
> If buying used, plug 'er in and listen to it run---shouldn't be any
> growling noises, rumbling noises, etc..
> I worked construction for years--never wore out a worm-drive. An
> occaisional brush change and changing lube in the gearcase is all that's
> really needed/
> Roger
>
>
On Sat, 03 Jan 2004 11:04:05 -0500, Bob Haar <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I don't understand how Tim's comment about kickback applies to a hand held
>circular saw. In all of them that I have used, the part of the blade that
>does the cutting is moving away from the operator. The sawdust chute is a
>different issue. You do want to make sure that this is pointed away from the
>user.
when a handheld circ kicks back the saw comes flying at you, not the
wood.... it also tends to flip upside down as it comes.
>
>Back to the original question - I am right handed and prefer left mounted
>blades. This gives me better visibility of the cut. With a right mounted
>blade, I feel that I have to lean over to see what is happening.
with a lot of sidewinders there is a line of sight available to the
left side of the blade right where the teeth engage the wood.
>Also, the
>left mount blade gives better support for the saw in the way I frequently
>use one, which is with the work piece supported on saw horses or a work
>table and the smaller cutoff portion sticking out to the left where I can
>hold it with my left hand. That way, the saw base rides on the portion that
>is supproted.
I find that about half of the time I need to work from the other
side....
In article <wwoJb.231405$J77.149331@fed1read07>,
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Who cares about what type of bearings are in it?
> (They certainly can't be of any importance when the damn saw keeps on
> working in spite of every effort to kill it!)
Yeah, I've got one of those.
A contractor gave me for free (he was going to dump it in the trash) one
of those cheap little benchtop table saws. I put a diamond masonary
blade in it and used it to cut paving stones for my driveway (cast
cement about 3 inches thick). It's a big driveway, about 70 feet long.
The herringbone pattern I did required a block to be cut along each edge
on almost every row. That's a lot of cement to be cut, and it made a
huge mess of abrasive dust.
I was done up with respirator, face mask, and hearing protectors, but
the poor saw just sucked in all that dust and kept going. I expect by
now the bearings are total trash, but the saw wouldn't die.
Bob Haar wrote:
>> when a handheld circ kicks back the saw comes flying at you, not the
>> wood.... it also tends to flip upside down as it comes.
>
> I have never had that happen, but see how it is possible.
I knew a guy that this happened to. He was a contractor & worked with the
guard pinned because it saved time. (Bad Idea.) A pinch, a flip, and ....
Years later he still didn't have much grip in that hand.
-- Mark
On Sat, 03 Jan 2004 09:23:17 -0700, Bridger <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 03 Jan 2004 11:04:05 -0500, Bob Haar <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>I don't understand how Tim's comment about kickback applies to a hand held
>>circular saw. In all of them that I have used, the part of the blade that
>>does the cutting is moving away from the operator. The sawdust chute is a
>>different issue. You do want to make sure that this is pointed away from the
>>user.
>
>when a handheld circ kicks back the saw comes flying at you, not the
>wood.... it also tends to flip upside down as it comes.
>
>
I suppose a blade brake would help in most circumstances like this.
--snip--
>
>
>>Also, the
>>left mount blade gives better support for the saw in the way I frequently
>>use one, which is with the work piece supported on saw horses or a work
>>table and the smaller cutoff portion sticking out to the left where I can
>>hold it with my left hand. That way, the saw base rides on the portion that
>>is supproted.
>
>
>
>I find that about half of the time I need to work from the other
>side....
I try to arrange it so I can support the saw on the non-cutoff side,
though it does happen that it's inconvenient sometimes to do that.
But, a little while ago, you He-Men told me that's what those rippling
muscles y'all have were for (to support the saw when you're riding on
the cutoff side) <g>.
Renata
smart, not dumb for email
Do NOT "screw the features"!! Take them into account & take them seriously.
Look for a good heavy base plate (shoe). Look for a decent amp rating on
the motor. Look to see how the machine feels in you hand(s). Look to see
where the dust shoots out from. Look at everything, for that matter --
including price! Is a left blade more comfortable to you than a right
blade? Does that even matter?
I recently found a Hitachi C7SB2 saw at Lowes that met all my essential
requirements and just happened to fall right on the price line sweet point.
Despite that butt-ugly pseudo-fluorescent green Hitachi uses, I bought the
saw to replace my old department-store-class Skil. The Hitachi is a keeper
(and was a fair buy at $85).
--
Steve
www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
Mesa, AZ
Penury Is the Mother of Invention
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
: Hi All
:
: I'm looking for ideas for a good quality circular saw. I'm just
: getting started with woodworking, and aren't looking for the top of
: the line--but something good, with the right features, that'll last
: for awhile.
: I'm likely to buy a new one, but will also peruse Ebay to see whats
: there as well.
:
: Also, what features/amps/size/etc do you feel are necessary? Until I
: purchase a table saw, this'll be it for now.
:
: Lastly...best brand recommendations?
: All advice is appreciated!
:
: Thanx,
: Dave
My old thirty-dollar department-store Skil has gone through abuse and misuse
from day one eight years ago. I've dropped it. I've cut down concrete
columns with it. I've butchered lumber and sheet goods with it. I hate that
saw. The damned thing won't die. I really do hate it, I do my best to kill
it. It will _not_ die!
Who cares about what type of bearings are in it?
(They certainly can't be of any importance when the damn saw keeps on
working in spite of every effort to kill it!)
--
Steve
www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
Mesa, AZ
Penury Is the Mother of Invention
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
: On Fri, 2 Jan 2004 09:08:01 -0700, "Steve"
: <[email protected]> wrote:
:
: >Do NOT "screw the features"!! Take them into account & take them
seriously.
:
: Got any good way to judge the bearing quality from outside the box ?
:
:
: --
: Congrats to STBL on his elevation from TLA to ETLA