"high tech leveler"? I like the high tech hinge myself! ;-)
BRuce
Ed. O. wrote:
> Jean,
> I have to go with the majority. . .build your own. Far more rewarding and
> cheaper.
> Pictures of mine can be found at:
> http://www.amiigas.com/outfeed/outfeed.htm
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Ed. O.
> My woodworking projects at:
> http://www.amiigas.com
> Remove the NAIL from e-mail to reply
>
>
--
---
BRuce
On Sun, 7 Dec 2003 07:32:49 -0500, "Ed. O." <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I have to go with the majority. . .build your own. Far more rewarding and
>cheaper.
Yup, I agree. I have a workbench on the far side of my TS that's the
same height. Everything slides off the TS and onto the bench and I've
yet to find anything that I can't handle that way.
make a straight true stick that fits snugly in the miter slot, long
enough to fill the miter slot and extend as far as you want the slot
in the outfeed table to go. you might need to cut relief in the bottom
of it to get it close enough to the outfeed table at the extreme end.
with that stick in place, set a couple of sheets of something- plywood
or mdf or whatever- up against it and clamp them down. pull the stick
out of the middle and use the resulting gap as a guide for a top
bearing router bit.
Bridger
On Mon, 08 Dec 2003 01:40:04 GMT, "Mike S." <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I just got the Jet contractor saw with cast wings. After the delta benchtop
>it's like going from a yugo to a Trailblazer. Anyway what's the best way to
>make the miter slots in the outfeed table so they align up with the saws
>slots?
Rob V wrote:
>
> Dude - make your own.
>
> It just kills me when ppl ask - which (insert whatever here) should I buy??
> When you can make your own to fit you need for cheaper in 99% of the cases.
>
> I mean what do you plan on building w/ the tools anyways? If you cant build
> an outfeed table - or a router table - or a drill press table - or what
> ever - why would think that you can build a piece of furniture or whatnot?
>
> Use your skills at those items first - and like Tom Platman says (and I
> think of this almost anytime I build anything now after seeing his website)
> learn to think - once you know how to do that - you can build anything.
>
> -R
>
> "jean forand" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Ok
> > I want to buy an outfeed table/rollers for my unisaw. I have seen both
> the
> > delta table and the HTC rollers. Are their others
> >
> > HTC roller are not all parallel to each other. Some or up to 1/8 higher or
> > lower to the one infront
> >
> > Delta table is made of cheap MDF and Angle iron
> > So which do you recommend?
> >
> >
I agree..here you sit with a Uni and you're too damn lazy to build your
own OF table for it. Hell, I built one for my lowly 64A and even
documented it for anyone else that might need the info. Not too sure
that I'd be asking you to make something for me if you can't even do
this.
Scott
Bridger wrote:
>make a straight true stick that fits snugly in the miter slot, long
>enough to fill the miter slot and extend as far as you want the slot
>in the outfeed table to go. you might need to cut relief in the bottom
>of it to get it close enough to the outfeed table at the extreme end.
>with that stick in place, set a couple of sheets of something- plywood
>or mdf or whatever- up against it and clamp them down. pull the stick
>out of the middle and use the resulting gap as a guide for a top
>bearing router bit.
I made a similar jig but the 3/4" piece was 1 1/8" high and
set into the slot only at the table. This was then sided up
with two pieces which were then bis-qwiked into the piece
sitting in the slot. This left me with the 3/4" "open"
which was then routed with a pattern (bearing on
bottom/'tween the cutter and base) bit.
Two slight problems to watch for.
When slotting, be sure you stop away from the cast iron.
Don't Ask Me How I Know This. The tit that's left isn't
much to take off with a file or 60X backed up by a hard
block.
Next, I'm not sure if the table moved or I got some seasonal
fluctuations but about six months later the outfeed slot was
off by enough that a sled runner would run in it. It was
only a matter of re-installing the jig and shaving off the
now offending "extra".
Which brings me to this. Just how long should you save a
one off jig?
It is semi-impressive to have a 3/4" (OK, make that 3/4"
heavy in my case) slot when you are done and not one of
those 1" wide slots you normally see.
UA100, whose 3/4" heavy isn't detectable by the neked eye...
On Sat, 6 Dec 2003 21:55:55 -0800, "Howard Ruttan"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"jean forand" wrote ...
>> Delta table is made of cheap MDF and Angle iron
>> So which do you recommend?
>
>Buy a sheet of 3/4 inch MDF and a couple 2x4's and make your own. You can
>even get creative and add a couple hinges so it folds down. Search Google
>for folding outfeed and you should get some examples of others who have done
>exactly that.
>
>I used some leftover MDF and a couple of 2x4's and mine has been in service
>for 8 years. I wouldn't spend a lot of money on one and those rollers
>aren't all they are cracked up to be. I would rather have a solid surface.
I've been using a Record adjustable roller stand. The rollers are
better than nothing at all, but I need to build an outfeed table for
my PM66. I like the hinge, 2x4's, and MDF idea. I'd like to hear
what others have done, and what they would have done different. I
need a design that keeps the DC port easily accessible.
"Jim Wilson" wrote ...
> The only thing I'd add to Howard's suggestion is to do something to
> reduce friction on the outfeed surface. You can shellac and wax MDF for a
> cheap but effective solution. Melamine is another option, but it will
> also need to be waxed eventually; how soon/often depends on the woods you
> work with and how good your dust collection is. Best solution IMO is
> MDF+laminate. In this case, make sure to provide a good flat
> substructure, or perhaps laminate both sides. Otherwise it will want to
> warp with changes in humidity.
I thought of that Jim, but I'll just add a further 2 cents worth. My side
feed table is MDF with a laminate on top and I find it too damn slippery. I
like a little friction as some plywoods are slippery enough on their own. I
find it gives me a bit more control when cutting up a 4x8 sheet. I wax the
hell out of the bottom of my crosscut and other sleds and I run them over
the saw table before it dries. I think, although I have no substantive
proof, a little wax gets transferred to the MDF but not enough to make it
too slick.
--
Cheers,
Howard
----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
December 03 issue of Fine WoodWorking has plans for a shop made roller,
along with a review of 5 or 6 different models.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03
"jean forand" wrote in message
> Ok
> I want to buy an outfeed table/rollers for my unisaw. I have seen both
the
> delta table and the HTC rollers. Are their others
>
> HTC roller are not all parallel to each other. Some or up to 1/8 higher or
> lower to the one infront
>
> Delta table is made of cheap MDF and Angle iron
> So which do you recommend?
"jean forand" wrote ...
> Delta table is made of cheap MDF and Angle iron
> So which do you recommend?
Buy a sheet of 3/4 inch MDF and a couple 2x4's and make your own. You can
even get creative and add a couple hinges so it folds down. Search Google
for folding outfeed and you should get some examples of others who have done
exactly that.
I used some leftover MDF and a couple of 2x4's and mine has been in service
for 8 years. I wouldn't spend a lot of money on one and those rollers
aren't all they are cracked up to be. I would rather have a solid surface.
--
Cheers,
Howard
----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
My biggest home run to date...
You gotta go to a LOT of turkey shoots to finally
get the big one.
Jim Wilson wrote:
> Pat Barber wrote...
>
>>The saw was purchased at auction last January for $165.
>>It ran the day I plugged it in with no additional work.
>
>
> oh...
>
>
>>Any questions ???
>
>
> no, guess not. *sigh*
>
> ok, just one...Is it possible that the huge vortex of negative pressure
> that formed over your shop last January there is still affecting the
> weather here? It suddenly got cold and windy outside. (G)
>
> Cheers!
>
> Jim
Howard Ruttan wrote...
> Buy a sheet of 3/4 inch MDF and a couple 2x4's and make your own.
I second.
> I wouldn't spend a lot of money on one and those rollers
> aren't all they are cracked up to be. I would rather have a solid surface.
IME, the rollers tend to pull the stock laterally, which can be a bear to
deal with. The ball roller types are better in that regard, but they mark
up soft stock and have gaps which introduces a new problem. A flat,
smooth surface is much better.
The only thing I'd add to Howard's suggestion is to do something to
reduce friction on the outfeed surface. You can shellac and wax MDF for a
cheap but effective solution. Melamine is another option, but it will
also need to be waxed eventually; how soon/often depends on the woods you
work with and how good your dust collection is. Best solution IMO is
MDF+laminate. In this case, make sure to provide a good flat
substructure, or perhaps laminate both sides. Otherwise it will want to
warp with changes in humidity.
Jim
Mike S. wrote...
> Anyway what's the best way to
> make the miter slots in the outfeed table so they align up with the saws
> slots?
Keeter and Bridger made their extension table slots match the tablesaw
slots... Got a question for you guys. Why make it fit? Is it a
testosterone thing? (G)
Mine are slightly oversize (Ar-ar-ar!) but the technique was sort of
similar to Bridger's. I butted the outfeed table up to the tablesaw,
marked the slot outline, moved the outfeed away from the tablesaw (forgot
this step, eh, Keith?), clamped a pair of scrap fences a tad more than 3-
1/4" away from each pencil mark and routed the slot. The 3 1/4" is
because I used a 1/2" straight bit and my router baseplate is 7". The
sled runners do their guiding in the tablesaw slots; the slots in the
outfeed table are just for clearance.
Cheers!
Jim
Pat Barber wrote...
> Heyyyy... what if your slots are 1" ????
>
> Like this one:
>
> http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-639331.html
That yours, Pat? Looks like a unisaur under there. Mine (34-450, Nov '68)
only has 3/4" slots....
Jim, feeling decidedly undersized now (G)
Unisaw A100 wrote...
> Oh no, that there is a 12/14 that Pat, umm, "lucked" onto.
>
> Go ahead, sharpen the goad and ask him what he paid for it.
Aw, man! I don't want to know.
> I've got a pitcher of my Unisaw with O'Deen in the
> background and he makes it look like a CompacTool key chain
> table saw (similar to a Ryobi table saw for anyone not
> interested in bad vintage machines).
I bet! That one shot of Paddy with a -- what was it, a #7? -- made it
look like a #1.
Jim
Pat Barber wrote...
> The saw was purchased at auction last January for $165.
> It ran the day I plugged it in with no additional work.
oh...
> Any questions ???
no, guess not. *sigh*
ok, just one...Is it possible that the huge vortex of negative pressure
that formed over your shop last January there is still affecting the
weather here? It suddenly got cold and windy outside. (G)
Cheers!
Jim
Heyyyy... what if your slots are 1" ????
Like this one:
http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-639331.html
Unisaw A100 wrote:
> Jim Wilson wrote:
>
>>Keeter and Bridger made their extension table slots match the tablesaw
>>slots... Got a question for you guys. Why make it fit? Is it a
>>testosterone thing? (G)
>
>
> That and a generous dosing of pride. I mean, any hack can
> make 1" wide slots.
>
> http://www.newyankee.com/tour2.shtml
>
> There you have it.
>
> UA100
I just got the Jet contractor saw with cast wings. After the delta benchtop
it's like going from a yugo to a Trailblazer. Anyway what's the best way to
make the miter slots in the outfeed table so they align up with the saws
slots?
--
Mike S.
[email protected]
My "working bench" in the shop is 4'x3' on wheels, built to be 5/8" below
the table saw height. When I need outfeed, I wheel it behing the saw and
top it with a piece of plywood. I guess I could incorporate a roller into
it but have never seen the need.
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 07 Dec 2003 02:37:34 GMT, "jean forand" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Delta table is made of cheap MDF and Angle iron
> >So which do you recommend?
>
> I made my own of MDF and plastic laminate. I prefer a solid outfeed
> vs. rollers because I can use it as an addition assembly surface when
> needed. If you don't like MDF, use birch ply under the laminate.
>
> For my dollar, MDF is great stuff for outfeeds, infeeds, assembly
> tables, router table tops, shop cabinets, etc... Just because it's
> cheap dosen't mean it's not usable.
>
> Barry
Dude - make your own.
It just kills me when ppl ask - which (insert whatever here) should I buy??
When you can make your own to fit you need for cheaper in 99% of the cases.
I mean what do you plan on building w/ the tools anyways? If you cant build
an outfeed table - or a router table - or a drill press table - or what
ever - why would think that you can build a piece of furniture or whatnot?
Use your skills at those items first - and like Tom Platman says (and I
think of this almost anytime I build anything now after seeing his website)
learn to think - once you know how to do that - you can build anything.
-R
"jean forand" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok
> I want to buy an outfeed table/rollers for my unisaw. I have seen both
the
> delta table and the HTC rollers. Are their others
>
> HTC roller are not all parallel to each other. Some or up to 1/8 higher or
> lower to the one infront
>
> Delta table is made of cheap MDF and Angle iron
> So which do you recommend?
>
>
> needed. If you don't like MDF, use birch ply under the laminate.
>
================
I have nothing against either Laminate or MDF...except neither look like
wood... and my shop is a woodshop...
My outfeed table (15 years old now) is Birch plywood...
with a finish of poly....trimed with scrap Cherry ...looks
great...functions great...and has lasted all these years ...
IT just looks like it belongs in a Woodshop ....
Bob Griffiths
On Sun, 07 Dec 2003 02:37:34 GMT, "jean forand" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Delta table is made of cheap MDF and Angle iron
>So which do you recommend?
I made my own of MDF and plastic laminate. I prefer a solid outfeed
vs. rollers because I can use it as an addition assembly surface when
needed. If you don't like MDF, use birch ply under the laminate.
For my dollar, MDF is great stuff for outfeeds, infeeds, assembly
tables, router table tops, shop cabinets, etc... Just because it's
cheap dosen't mean it's not usable.
Barry
Mark,
Yes, make all my own inserts and that is a built in splitter. A piece of
angle aluminum will do the trick. Got the idea from Kelly Mehler when we
visited his shop in Berea, KY. He showed us how to add a piece of hardwood
same width as the slot. It works and I won't argue with a master.
Ed
--
Ed. O.
My woodworking projects at:
http://www.amiigas.com
Remove the NAIL from e-mail to reply
"jean forand" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Ok
> I want to buy an outfeed table/rollers for my unisaw. I have seen both the
> delta table and the HTC rollers. Are their others
>
> HTC roller are not all parallel to each other. Some or up to 1/8 higher or
> lower to the one infront
>
> Delta table is made of cheap MDF and Angle iron
> So which do you recommend?
The HTC rollers work fine in my experience. But remember that they are
designed as a space saver and as such have limitations. One
improvement I would make is to add support at either outboard side.
With the single center support they tend to be tippy especially with
large sheet goods. You could add an auxiliary roller stand if needed
or simply prop up the corner with a stick. The rollers are parallel
and I have not noticed that they skew your work one way or the other.
However if you have the room make yourself a permanent outfeed table
as others have suggested. It's easy and cheap and much better. I
prefer a laminate surface.
Mike
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 04:13:38 GMT, Jim Wilson <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Unisaw A100 wrote...
>> Oh no, that there is a 12/14 that Pat, umm, "lucked" onto.
>>
>> Go ahead, sharpen the goad and ask him what he paid for it.
>
>Aw, man! I don't want to know.
>
>> I've got a pitcher of my Unisaw with O'Deen in the
>> background and he makes it look like a CompacTool key chain
>> table saw (similar to a Ryobi table saw for anyone not
>> interested in bad vintage machines).
>
>I bet! That one shot of Paddy with a -- what was it, a #7? -- made it
>look like a #1.
>
>Jim
it was an 8, IIRC.
Bridger
I don't mean to gloat, but I have a retired hospital gurney to which I
added a plywood top covered with laminate. I can crank it up and down,
thus matching the table saw top. It normally sits behind the saw, but
if I need a really long outfeed table, I turn it long ways. It also
serves well as an assembly table!
Cheers, Rich
"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Dude - make your own.
>
> It just kills me when ppl ask - which (insert whatever here) should I buy??
> When you can make your own to fit you need for cheaper in 99% of the cases.
>
> I mean what do you plan on building w/ the tools anyways? If you cant build
> an outfeed table - or a router table - or a drill press table - or what
> ever - why would think that you can build a piece of furniture or whatnot?
>
> Use your skills at those items first - and like Tom Platman says (and I
> think of this almost anytime I build anything now after seeing his website)
> learn to think - once you know how to do that - you can build anything.
>
>
> -R
>
> "jean forand" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Ok
> > I want to buy an outfeed table/rollers for my unisaw. I have seen both
> the
> > delta table and the HTC rollers. Are their others
> >
> > HTC roller are not all parallel to each other. Some or up to 1/8 higher or
> > lower to the one infront
> >
> > Delta table is made of cheap MDF and Angle iron
> > So which do you recommend?
> >
> >
My unisaw came with an outfeed table, but I couldn't use it for 2
reasons: 1) the Unisaw is on a mobile base, and 2) in my small shop, I
have the saw up against the garage door, opening it as needed to rip
long stuff. Plus I have a dust port coming out the back of the saw.
I wanted to make it folding, hanging off of the saw so it moved around
on the mobile w/o problem. One problem with making it hinging was it's
HEAVY.
So what I did is cut about a foot off of the saw end of the outfeed
table and bolt it to the saw, into and on top of the rear fence rail.
This is how it's supposed to go. I then cut about 5" off the remaining
piece. It was now short enough so when hanging down off of the fixed
piece, it cleared the dust port. A piano hinge provided support. I
bolted a sturdy cleat across the rear of the saw cabinet and had a 45%
brace going from the cleat up to the fixed piece of outfeed table
about every 10". This made the fixed part sturdy enough to handle the
weight of hanging part.
The back legs are hinged, and held against the hanging part when it's
in the down position by magnets, and there is a magnet which hold the
hanging part against the saw cabinet to keep it from bumping around.
Works great.
Jim
jean forand wrote:
>So which do you recommend?
Rollers, if they aren't perpendicular to the saw blade, can
be down right dangerous as they will pull the stock away or
towards the blade (dependant upon their alignment to the
blade).
If you insist on having something that rolls look at ball
casters. These can/will be expensive depending on how many
you feel you need.
Having said that, neither is necessary and both are a waste
of money. All you really need is a surface at the back side
of your table so the stock doesn't want to come up and meet
your chin once it's gone past the blade. Also, the
rollers/casters render the outfeed useless as a work surface
should you choose to need them as "extra" work surface for
the shop.
UA100
On Sun, 07 Dec 2003 08:37:52 -0500, BRuce <BRuce> scribbled
>"high tech leveler"? I like the high tech hinge myself! ;-)
>
>BRuce
>
>Ed. O. wrote:
>
>> Jean,
>> I have to go with the majority. . .build your own. Far more rewarding and
>> cheaper.
>> Pictures of mine can be found at:
>> http://www.amiigas.com/outfeed/outfeed.htm
Hey, I use the same high tech leveller, except I've got metal legs (on
the outfeed table, Keith).
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address
On Mon, 08 Dec 2003 04:22:11 -0600, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Bridger wrote:
>>make a straight true stick that fits snugly in the miter slot, long
>>enough to fill the miter slot and extend as far as you want the slot
>>in the outfeed table to go. you might need to cut relief in the bottom
>>of it to get it close enough to the outfeed table at the extreme end.
>>with that stick in place, set a couple of sheets of something- plywood
>>or mdf or whatever- up against it and clamp them down. pull the stick
>>out of the middle and use the resulting gap as a guide for a top
>>bearing router bit.
>
>
>I made a similar jig but the 3/4" piece was 1 1/8" high and
>set into the slot only at the table. This was then sided up
>with two pieces which were then bis-qwiked into the piece
>sitting in the slot. This left me with the 3/4" "open"
>which was then routed with a pattern (bearing on
>bottom/'tween the cutter and base) bit.
>
>Two slight problems to watch for.
>
>When slotting, be sure you stop away from the cast iron.
>Don't Ask Me How I Know This. The tit that's left isn't
>much to take off with a file or 60X backed up by a hard
>block.
>
>Next, I'm not sure if the table moved or I got some seasonal
>fluctuations but about six months later the outfeed slot was
>off by enough that a sled runner would run in it. It was
>only a matter of re-installing the jig and shaving off the
>now offending "extra".
>
>Which brings me to this. Just how long should you save a
>one off jig?
>
>It is semi-impressive to have a 3/4" (OK, make that 3/4"
>heavy in my case) slot when you are done and not one of
>those 1" wide slots you normally see.
>
>UA100, whose 3/4" heavy isn't detectable by the neked eye...
see, that's why my jig is better than yours. ; ^ )
when I was done I simply returned the parts to stock. no one off jig
to store.
that said, I do have a number of "one off" jigs that have been in use,
modified and yes, stored for years.....
Bridger, whose 4x8 outfeed/assembly table has a heap of old jigs
under it.....
On 7 Dec 2003 05:58:01 -0800, [email protected] (Richard) wrote:
>I don't mean to gloat, but I have a retired hospital gurney to which I
>added a plywood top covered with laminate. I can crank it up and down,
>thus matching the table saw top. It normally sits behind the saw, but
>if I need a really long outfeed table, I turn it long ways. It also
>serves well as an assembly table!
>
>Cheers, Rich
>
Sounds perfect, and very versatile.
I have a PM66 saw and popped for the HTC outfeed table for it with the
rollers. Being by myself it would be impossible for me to rip a 4x8
sheet of anything withoutand outfeed table but I hate it. Their
design is lousy. It folds down nice enough to keep it out of the way
when not in use and it was easy to fasten to the saw but it is not
sturdy enough to keep from tilting ever so slightly and that causes
the rollers to pull the sheet goods away from the fence as it rolls
ahead. The rollers make it easy to move the sheet over the saw but
the sheet then has a mind of its own and fights you off as it attempts
to pull away from the fence because the rollers are functionally
crooked when the table tilts. I can loosen the mounting and align it
but it won't stay in alignment and only if perfectly aligned will it
work right. Rollers are simply the wrong thing for the job.. If you
do mainly sheet goods and want something slicker than flat table,
consider using a matrix of swivle balls so that there is no ability
for them to pull the sheet goods in any direction. I keep telling
myself I am going to rectify this problem one of these days but
usually I just fight it and make do. What I really need to do is take
the HTC roller table and see how well it would float in the nearest
river.
On Sun, 07 Dec 2003 03:21:59 GMT, Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 6 Dec 2003 21:55:55 -0800, "Howard Ruttan"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"jean forand" wrote ...
>>> Delta table is made of cheap MDF and Angle iron
>>> So which do you recommend?
>>
>>Buy a sheet of 3/4 inch MDF and a couple 2x4's and make your own. You can
>>even get creative and add a couple hinges so it folds down. Search Google
>>for folding outfeed and you should get some examples of others who have done
>>exactly that.
>>
>>I used some leftover MDF and a couple of 2x4's and mine has been in service
>>for 8 years. I wouldn't spend a lot of money on one and those rollers
>>aren't all they are cracked up to be. I would rather have a solid surface.
>
>
>I've been using a Record adjustable roller stand. The rollers are
>better than nothing at all, but I need to build an outfeed table for
>my PM66. I like the hinge, 2x4's, and MDF idea. I'd like to hear
>what others have done, and what they would have done different. I
>need a design that keeps the DC port easily accessible.
That's a really good idea. I'm always on the lookout for adjustable height
devices and a gurney sounds ideal.
"Richard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't mean to gloat, but I have a retired hospital gurney to which I
> added a plywood top covered with laminate. I can crank it up and down,
> thus matching the table saw top. It normally sits behind the saw, but
> if I need a really long outfeed table, I turn it long ways. It also
> serves well as an assembly table!
Jim Wilson wrote:
>Keeter and Bridger made their extension table slots match the tablesaw
>slots... Got a question for you guys. Why make it fit? Is it a
>testosterone thing? (G)
That and a generous dosing of pride. I mean, any hack can
make 1" wide slots.
http://www.newyankee.com/tour2.shtml
There you have it.
UA100
On Sat, 06 Dec 2003 23:30:57 -0600, Jen <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a PM66 saw and popped for the HTC outfeed table for it with the
>rollers. Being by myself it would be impossible for me to rip a 4x8
>sheet of anything withoutand outfeed table but I hate it. Their
>design is lousy. It folds down nice enough to keep it out of the way
>when not in use and it was easy to fasten to the saw but it is not
>sturdy enough to keep from tilting ever so slightly and that causes
>the rollers to pull the sheet goods away from the fence as it rolls
>ahead. The rollers make it easy to move the sheet over the saw but
>the sheet then has a mind of its own and fights you off as it attempts
>to pull away from the fence because the rollers are functionally
>crooked when the table tilts. I can loosen the mounting and align it
>but it won't stay in alignment and only if perfectly aligned will it
>work right. Rollers are simply the wrong thing for the job.. If you
>do mainly sheet goods and want something slicker than flat table,
>consider using a matrix of swivle balls so that there is no ability
>for them to pull the sheet goods in any direction. I keep telling
>myself I am going to rectify this problem one of these days but
>usually I just fight it and make do. What I really need to do is take
>the HTC roller table and see how well it would float in the nearest
>river.
>
>On Sun, 07 Dec 2003 03:21:59 GMT, Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
rollers are fussy.they must be perfectly square to the blade or they
will pull the material in whatever directionthey are skewed in. table
are much better. I just installed a new beismier fence system to my
unisaw and built a side extention table for it. I used corian cause i
had some. if i can get some more when i do the outfeed table i will
use it for that too. skeez
http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-639331.html
>
>That yours, Pat? Looks like a unisaur under there. Mine (34-450, Nov '68)
>only has 3/4" slots....
Oh no, that there is a 12/14 that Pat, umm, "lucked" onto.
Go ahead, sharpen the goad and ask him what he paid for it.
>Jim, feeling decidedly undersized now (G)
I've got a pitcher of my Unisaw with O'Deen in the
background and he makes it look like a CompacTool key chain
table saw (similar to a Ryobi table saw for anyone not
interested in bad vintage machines).
UA100
The 34-350(The saw that the Unisaw wanted to be) is the
bigger boy in the family. It was built in 04/66 in Tupelo.
The average Unisaw comes in at a dainty 380 lbs, while the
12-14" comes in at 830 lbs. The 12-14 has a cast iron table
that is 38"x48". The miter guage comes in at 15lbs. The motor
is a standard 3hp single phase and it hits the scales at 120lbs.
The saw was purchased at auction last January for $165.
It ran the day I plugged it in with no additional work.
Any questions ???
Jim Wilson wrote:
> Pat Barber wrote...
> That yours, Pat? Looks like a unisaur under there. Mine (34-450, Nov '68)
> only has 3/4" slots....
>
> I used ideas from Al Amaral (http://members.aol.com/Alamaral/Outfeed.html)
>
I pretty much used Al's and Delta's factory outfeed table for ideas on my
own too. I used 4'x4' piece of 3/4" melamine, a piece of piano hinge and a
couple pieces of 1/8"x1" angle iron for support, and a couple of 1" square
tube for legs.
Greg
Mine is not heavy but rather long.... Here is a picture of
mine fully extended... It is 98" from the front edge of
table saw to end of outfeed.
This is a slightly modified version of a torsion box design
shown in FWW a few issues back in the spring.
The saw is 34-350 12"/14" Tilting Arbor table saw.(1966 model)
http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-639331.html
Jim Campbell wrote:
> My unisaw came with an outfeed table, but I couldn't use it for 2
> reasons: 1) the Unisaw is on a mobile base, and 2) in my small shop, I
> have the saw up against the garage door, opening it as needed to rip
> long stuff. Plus I have a dust port coming out the back of the saw.
>
> I wanted to make it folding, hanging off of the saw so it moved around
> on the mobile w/o problem. One problem with making it hinging was it's
> HEAVY.
>
> So what I did is cut about a foot off of the saw end of the outfeed
> table and bolt it to the saw, into and on top of the rear fence rail.
> This is how it's supposed to go. I then cut about 5" off the remaining
> piece. It was now short enough so when hanging down off of the fixed
> piece, it cleared the dust port. A piano hinge provided support. I
> bolted a sturdy cleat across the rear of the saw cabinet and had a 45%
> brace going from the cleat up to the fixed piece of outfeed table
> about every 10". This made the fixed part sturdy enough to handle the
> weight of hanging part.
>
> The back legs are hinged, and held against the hanging part when it's
> in the down position by magnets, and there is a magnet which hold the
> hanging part against the saw cabinet to keep it from bumping around.
here's some links to pictures of what I did:
http://pages.cthome.net/logmanworld/outfeed1.jpg
http://pages.cthome.net/logmanworld/outfeed4.jpg
http://pages.cthome.net/logmanworld/outfeed5.jpg
I used ideas from Al Amaral (http://members.aol.com/Alamaral/Outfeed.html)
and Jim Becker (http://www.sawsndust.com/p-outfeed.htm).
I think you can make a better one than you can buy (not to say that mine is
an example of this), and it will certainly be cheaper. I've been using mine
for about 9 months and it has been indispensible.
Mike
"jean forand" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok
> I want to buy an outfeed table/rollers for my unisaw. I have seen both
the
> delta table and the HTC rollers. Are their others
>
> HTC roller are not all parallel to each other. Some or up to 1/8 higher or
> lower to the one infront
>
> Delta table is made of cheap MDF and Angle iron
> So which do you recommend?
>
>
Ed, I noticed in the picture of your TS you have a splitter built in to
the blade insert. Does that work well? It seems like a clever idea. I
have a stock Unisaw and would like to do the same. I assume you made
the insert yourself? Thanks, Mark
Ed. O. wrote:
> Jean,
> I have to go with the majority. . .build your own. Far more rewarding and
> cheaper.
> Pictures of mine can be found at:
> http://www.amiigas.com/outfeed/outfeed.htm
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Ed. O.
> My woodworking projects at:
> http://www.amiigas.com
> Remove the NAIL from e-mail to reply
>
>