I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said it
contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use it
on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real bad.
Thanks
Jimmy
I use a product called "Rust Free" by the guys that make Bioshield. I think
it works great, buy it by the gallon for economy and use it to clean the
calcium deposits from the bathtub. After a little rubbing, apply a little
wax, and you're all set.
-roger-
"Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
>the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said
>it contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use
>it on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real
>bad.
>
> Thanks
> Jimmy
>
On Mar 12, 9:54 am, "Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
> the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said it
> contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use it
> on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real bad.
>
> Thanks
> Jimmy
If it is not bad I would try WD40 and Scotch-Brite. Works great for
things like setting a cold bottle of water on the saw on a hot day...
On Mar 12, 9:54 am, "Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
> the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said it
> contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use it
> on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real bad.
>
> Thanks
> Jimmy
most naval Jelly's contain phosporic acid and is just as nasty as
hydrochloric(muriatic), and not as bad as nitric. beleave it or not
what works also is straight coca-cola. The carbolic acid is mild but
it does work. A good cleaning afterwords and a light coat of oil after
words with WD-40. if you don't like the film WD leaves on the surface
try to use a light oil.
On Mar 12, 9:54 am, "Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
> the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said it
> contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use it
> on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real bad.
>
> Thanks
> Jimmy
WD40 and a gray Scotchbrite pad stuck onto your random orbit sander
will take off a light coat of rust fast. Anything heavier, use 220
paper.
Shopdog wrote:
> Someone set a cold bottle of water on a table saw! OH THE HORROR~! Nothing
> but wood touches my saw table, I won't even let my wife lean her hand on it!
> You know what body oils do to metal?
>
> I went out one day to find a light coat of rust on the table. I couldn't
> figure out what happened, I used the WD40 and the scotch brite. Now I keep
> it covered. To this day I still have no idea what happened. The shop is
> vulnerable to humitidity but I keep a wax coat on the saw. This happened in
> the winter and the only thing that I can think is that the propane heater
> had soemthing to do with it.
>
> Searcher
It did. One of the by-products of combustion is, oddly enough, moisture.
Bill
--
I am disillusioned enough to know that no man's opinion on any subject
is worth a **** unless backed up with enough genuine information to make
him really know what he's talking about.
H. P. Lovecraft
---
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Virus Database (VPS): 000723-1, 03/12/2007
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I use a POWER TOOL! A 4 1/2" grinder with a 3M Bristle Disk.
It takes off rust, glue, and anything else that gets on flat steel surfaces.
Leave a nice swirl too. Takes just a minute.
Jim
"Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
>the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said
>it contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use
>it on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real
>bad.
>
> Thanks
> Jimmy
>
Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Roger wrote:
>
>> A good cleaning afterwords and a light coat of oil after words with
>> WD-40.
>
> I've had words with a lot of things in my shop, but never with WD-40
> :-).
>
You obviously don't use the spray cans. You can hear there's some left,
but there's no more propellant! lol
Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
My shop soaked in 4' of salt water for two weeks after Katrina (7' was the
high water mark). The big machines - cabinet saw, jointer, lathe, thickness
planer etc. went out to the curb for trash pickup. Also all hand held
electrical tools. You should see what salt water does to cast iron.
When I was able to get back into New Orleans, two months after the storm the
bits, chisels, pliers, screw drivers, sockets, etc. were soaked in mineral
oil + 20 wt. cheap oil for a few weeks. That and a wire brush restored them
to a useful, if not pretty, condition.
For some perverse reason I saved my vintage Powermatic bandsaw. I am now
starting the restoration of this saw. The cast iron table and trunions are
presently soaking in Marvel Mystery oil. A high pressure water blaster took
off the peeling paint on the base.
Before I hauled my Jet cabinet saw to the curb I played with WD 40 and a
cabinet scraper. It works. When I called Jet after the storm to ask about
first aid for my saw and shaper they recommended a WD 40 soak on everything.
They were nice people and very helpful. They told me that WD 40 is a mill.
spec. for "water displacement formula #40". I haven't verified that, but it
works for me. I keep a can at the ready.
Paul Gilbert
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 09:54:12 -0400, "Jimmy"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
>>the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said
>>it
>>contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use it
>>on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real bad.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Jimmy
>>
>
>
> For periodic light rust removal, I use 30 micron (not 30 grit) paper
> on a 5" RA.
>
> For heavy rust, I would recommend Empire products. When a number of
> my machines were submerged by Katrina, I called Empire and they sent
> me a care package (free of charge, nice people).
>
> The Empire stuff got all the rust, however, did not remove the
> staining from rust pitting. I don't think anything short of a regrind
> will get that.
Thanks for all the advice. I think the wd-40 and scotch brite will work.
It's pretty light.
Jimmy
"Woodhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I use a POWER TOOL! A 4 1/2" grinder with a 3M Bristle Disk.
> It takes off rust, glue, and anything else that gets on flat steel
> surfaces.
> Leave a nice swirl too. Takes just a minute.
>
> Jim
>
>
> "Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
>>the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said
>>it contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use
>>it on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real
>>bad.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Jimmy
>>
>
>
"Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
>the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said
>it contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use
>it on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real
>bad.
>
> Thanks
> Jimmy
>
Light rust can be removed with WD40 and a little scrubbing with a Scotch
Brite pad.
Empire also makes a chemical that restores the finish and one that protects
the finish. This can be found at better wood working supply stores.
Someone set a cold bottle of water on a table saw! OH THE HORROR~! Nothing
but wood touches my saw table, I won't even let my wife lean her hand on it!
You know what body oils do to metal?
I went out one day to find a light coat of rust on the table. I couldn't
figure out what happened, I used the WD40 and the scotch brite. Now I keep
it covered. To this day I still have no idea what happened. The shop is
vulnerable to humitidity but I keep a wax coat on the saw. This happened in
the winter and the only thing that I can think is that the propane heater
had soemthing to do with it.
Searcher
"Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
>the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said
>it contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use
>it on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real
>bad.
>
> Thanks
> Jimmy
>
As the active ingredient of vinegar is acetic acid, it is no wonder that
whatever you bought smells like acid. Actually, it smells like acetic acid.
Most of the real vigorous acids either have no smell or destroy your sense
of smell.
Most people, though, suggest WD40 and elbow grease.
Jim
"Jimmy" wrote in message
> I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
> the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said
it
> contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use it
> on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real bad.
In addition to the Scotchbrite suggestion, if it's a really tough job, use
SandFlex blocks along with the WD40 or a rust remover.
The medium SandFlex for the tougher spots, and the fine for light rust and
for a finish before TopCote'ing it.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07
On 12 Mar 2007 07:19:37 -0700, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>If it is not bad I would try WD40 and Scotch-Brite. Works great for
>things like setting a cold bottle of water on the saw on a hot day...
>
The Scotchbrite works great under a ROS, if you're not crazy with the
WD-40.
I've tried the Top Saver "system", and while I really like Top Saver
as a table lube, for rust removal, WD-40 and the Scotchbrite worked
just as well for me, for a lot less money.
Puckdropper wrote:
>
> You obviously don't use the spray cans. You can hear there's some left,
> but there's no more propellant! lol
Isn't that why they offer hand powered sprayers.
Now refilling the sprayer from a gallon can is another matter.
SFWIW, I use WD40 and 150 grit on a ROS along with paper towels to clean
off the surface rust.
Gets the job done, but still leaves the stains.
Lew
On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 09:54:12 -0400, "Jimmy"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
>the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said it
>contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use it
>on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real bad.
>
> Thanks
> Jimmy
>
For periodic light rust removal, I use 30 micron (not 30 grit) paper
on a 5" RA.
For heavy rust, I would recommend Empire products. When a number of
my machines were submerged by Katrina, I called Empire and they sent
me a care package (free of charge, nice people).
The Empire stuff got all the rust, however, did not remove the
staining from rust pitting. I don't think anything short of a regrind
will get that.
Mineral spirits and very fine sandpaper.
J.
Jimmy wrote:
> I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
> the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said it
> contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use it
> on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real bad.
>
> Thanks
> Jimmy
>
>
On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 19:37:00 -0500, "Paul Gilbert"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>My shop soaked in 4' of salt water for two weeks after Katrina (7' was the
>high water mark). The big machines - cabinet saw, jointer, lathe, thickness
>planer etc. went out to the curb for trash pickup. Also all hand held
>electrical tools. You should see what salt water does to cast iron.
>
I've seen it. Mine sat for three weeks after being submerged before I
could get to Biloxi to deal with them. Much of what was submerged
went to the street.
>When I was able to get back into New Orleans, two months after the storm the
>bits, chisels, pliers, screw drivers, sockets, etc. were soaked in mineral
>oil + 20 wt. cheap oil for a few weeks. That and a wire brush restored them
>to a useful, if not pretty, condition.
>For some perverse reason I saved my vintage Powermatic bandsaw. I am now
>starting the restoration of this saw. The cast iron table and trunions are
>presently soaking in Marvel Mystery oil. A high pressure water blaster took
>off the peeling paint on the base.
I had a particular Unisaw that had both sentimental value and
potential collectors value, and that is the machine I worked to
restore. It has endured a complete dissassembly, derust, repaint and
rebuild. Table will never have that fresh grind sheen, but is clean,
functional and original, which was important to me. Took the motor
apart, flushed it, baked it, replaced bearings, capacitors and
centrigifugal switch and it kicked on.
What I did would not be worth the effort (time and money spent) for
most machines, but as mentioned, this one had value to me.
>
>Before I hauled my Jet cabinet saw to the curb I played with WD 40 and a
>cabinet scraper. It works. When I called Jet after the storm to ask about
>first aid for my saw and shaper they recommended a WD 40 soak on everything.
>They were nice people and very helpful. They told me that WD 40 is a mill.
>spec. for "water displacement formula #40". I haven't verified that, but it
>works for me. I keep a can at the ready.
>
>Paul Gilbert
>
>
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 09:54:12 -0400, "Jimmy"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>I was reading the archives and saw a lot of "use white vinegar". I bought
>>>the stuff from Woodcraft and used the rust remover on my jointer. It said
>>>it
>>>contains acid. Yeah, smelled like naval jelly. Don't really want to use it
>>>on the ts. Will vinegar work? it's a light coat of rust, nothing real bad.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Jimmy
>>>
>>
>>
>> For periodic light rust removal, I use 30 micron (not 30 grit) paper
>> on a 5" RA.
>>
>> For heavy rust, I would recommend Empire products. When a number of
>> my machines were submerged by Katrina, I called Empire and they sent
>> me a care package (free of charge, nice people).
>>
>> The Empire stuff got all the rust, however, did not remove the
>> staining from rust pitting. I don't think anything short of a regrind
>> will get that.
>