Yeah, I know it is off topic -- animal product rather than plant and
all that, but it _is_ a natural porous material, and woodworkers do
know about glues...
My dog recently converted his 6' leash into two 3' leashes. Being
basically cheap, I was thinking of repairing it by overlapping the
pieces about 6" gluing them, along with some pop rivets. 6" less
freedom seems like a fair price for him to pay for chewing up his
leash.
I probably should be stitching it, but don't have a machine, and doing
by hand is not worth it.
Any idea what glue to use? Strong in shear and flexible. And should I
glue smooth side to smooth, rough to rough, or rough to smooth?
TIA for any help.
--
Alex
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.
Victor Radin <[email protected]> wrote:
>Get a small tube of Barge Cement- made for leather and works well,
>retains flexibility and has decent shear and pull strength. Most craft
>centers should have it or ask your local shoe repair place. Overlap
>about 3" is good, you can shave each side down to form a long lap joint
>(closest analogy in wood), but rough to smooth side will work. Space
>your pop rivets about 1" apart, and at least 1/2" in from the end to
>avoid tear out.
>
>Vic
>ex-leathersmith
Thanks, Vic. I'll look for Barge Cement tomorrow. If I don't find it,
what do you think of using polyurethane glue, mentioned by someone
else here?
--
Alex
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.
alexy wrote:
> I probably should be stitching it, but don't have a machine, and doing
> by hand is not worth it.
Setting up a machine to stitch that little bit of nothing wouldn't be worth
it. Sewing machines are bitchy beasts.
Sewing in general is a horrible undertaking. I pity all the traditional
women of yore who used to have nothing better to do with their time all
day. Bleah!
> Any idea what glue to use? Strong in shear and flexible. And should I
It's leather. What else suggests itself but... HIDE GLUE! :)
> glue smooth side to smooth, rough to rough, or rough to smooth?
Everybody else already gave you real answers on the glue question. Just
FWIW, I've repaired lots of nylon webbing leashes, straps, handles and such
with a few pop rivets with small washers on both sides as backing plates.
They held up fine. Leather shouldn't be appreciably different. I don't
think you really need glue unless you have a giant 200-pound dog or
something.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yeah, I know it is off topic -- animal product rather than plant and
> all that, but it _is_ a natural porous material, and woodworkers do
> know about glues...
>
> My dog recently converted his 6' leash into two 3' leashes. Being
> basically cheap, I was thinking of repairing it by overlapping the
> pieces about 6" gluing them, along with some pop rivets. 6" less
> freedom seems like a fair price for him to pay for chewing up his
> leash.
>
Nuoooo.... In stead of overlapping 6" and loosing 12", join the 2 pieces
with a knot. A complicated knot, so the dog can't untie it. ;~)
It would probably be easier to drill 4 or 5 holes and use small machine
screws, nuts, washers, and lock washers.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Victor Radin <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Get a small tube of Barge Cement- made for leather and works well,
> >retains flexibility and has decent shear and pull strength. Most craft
> >centers should have it or ask your local shoe repair place. Overlap
> >about 3" is good, you can shave each side down to form a long lap joint
> >(closest analogy in wood), but rough to smooth side will work. Space
> >your pop rivets about 1" apart, and at least 1/2" in from the end to
> >avoid tear out.
> >
> >Vic
> >ex-leathersmith
>
> Thanks, Vic. I'll look for Barge Cement tomorrow. If I don't find it,
> what do you think of using polyurethane glue, mentioned by someone
> else here?
I'm not sure about the gorilla glue for leather. My experience with it
is limited to wood, and it tends to get pretty brittle in the ooze-outs.
I'd be worried about it on anything that flexes like the leash. If you
can't find barge, then try some rubber cement (flexible, no pull
strength but shear isn't bad) or Liquid Hide Glue- warm it up with a
hair dryer and apply to both sides, let sit for a minute or two then
clamp & rivet.
Of course, as long as you're riveting it anyway, the polyurethane glue
will probably hold long enough for the rivets to be placed.
And you might want to give the leash a thorough rubbing with bitter
apple oil. The pooch will quickly learn to chew on anything else.
vic
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Yeah, I know it is off topic -- animal product rather than plant and
> all that, but it _is_ a natural porous material, and woodworkers do
> know about glues...
>
> Any idea what glue to use? Strong in shear and flexible. And should I
> glue smooth side to smooth, rough to rough, or rough to smooth?
>
> TIA for any help.
Get a small tube of Barge Cement- made for leather and works well,
retains flexibility and has decent shear and pull strength. Most craft
centers should have it or ask your local shoe repair place. Overlap
about 3" is good, you can shave each side down to form a long lap joint
(closest analogy in wood), but rough to smooth side will work. Space
your pop rivets about 1" apart, and at least 1/2" in from the end to
avoid tear out.
Vic
ex-leathersmith
Overlap, then use Gorilla Glue, then drill 3 holes use the rivets made for
leather, you can get these at a tack shop or Tractor Supply.
I make belts out of scrape leather and this is what I do, I haven't had one
come apart yet!
Rich
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "alexy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Yeah, I know it is off topic -- animal product rather than plant and
> > all that, but it _is_ a natural porous material, and woodworkers do
> > know about glues...
> >
> > My dog recently converted his 6' leash into two 3' leashes. Being
> > basically cheap, I was thinking of repairing it by overlapping the
> > pieces about 6" gluing them, along with some pop rivets. 6" less
> > freedom seems like a fair price for him to pay for chewing up his
> > leash.
> >
>
>
> Nuoooo.... In stead of overlapping 6" and loosing 12", join the 2 pieces
> with a knot. A complicated knot, so the dog can't untie it. ;~)
>
> It would probably be easier to drill 4 or 5 holes and use small machine
> screws, nuts, washers, and lock washers.
>
>
Here is a suggestion for a poor man's stitching of leather. Overlap =
your pieces with a lap joint and tape them together. Now go to your =
drill press and drill appropriate holes along the edge. Sew together =
through the predrilled holes. Now you have a stitched joint that will =
hold just fine.
Puff
"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
> Yeah, I know it is off topic -- animal product rather than plant and
> all that, but it _is_ a natural porous material, and woodworkers do
> know about glues...
>=20
> My dog recently converted his 6' leash into two 3' leashes. Being
> basically cheap, I was thinking of repairing it by overlapping the
> pieces about 6" gluing them, along with some pop rivets. 6" less
> freedom seems like a fair price for him to pay for chewing up his
> leash.
>=20
> I probably should be stitching it, but don't have a machine, and doing
> by hand is not worth it. =20
>=20
> Any idea what glue to use? Strong in shear and flexible. And should I
> glue smooth side to smooth, rough to rough, or rough to smooth?
>=20
> TIA for any help.
> --=20
> Alex
> Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Nuoooo.... In stead of overlapping 6" and loosing 12"
Actually, I was planning to overlap 6" and just lose 6"! (If I
overlapped 36", would I lose 72", making the whole leash disappear?
<g>)
> join the 2 pieces
>with a knot. A complicated knot, so the dog can't untie it. ;~)
And keep his claws clipped, making untying even harder! I'm thinking
maybe a bowline?
>It would probably be easier to drill 4 or 5 holes and use small machine
>screws, nuts, washers, and lock washers.
That's in essence what I was going to do with pop rivets.
Thanks for the suggestions.
--
Alex
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.
"searcher1" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Overlap, then use Gorilla Glue, then drill 3 holes use the rivets made for
>leather, you can get these at a tack shop or Tractor Supply.
> I make belts out of scrape leather and this is what I do, I haven't had one
>come apart yet!
>
Thanks for the suggestion. I take it you have found gorilla glue to be
flexible enough?
--
Alex
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.
On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 02:28:32 -0500, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
>It's leather. What else suggests itself but... HIDE GLUE! :)
Hide glue is terrible on leather. It's too rigid, so it tends to
break off if it's ever flexed afterwards. If you want to go down this
route, use rabbit skin glue instead. It's not cooked as much, so it
remains flexible.
I use Evostik 528 for all leathery stickages.
It's also very easy to sew leather, if you can find the right sort of
heavy carpet thread, a thin awl with a good handle, and a sailmaker's
palm. Once you've punched the holes through, the sewing part isn;t so
bad.
--
Smert' spamionam
alexy wrote:
> Yeah, I know it is off topic -- animal product rather than
> plant and all that, but it _is_ a natural porous material, and
> woodworkers do know about glues...
>
> My dog recently converted his 6' leash into two 3' leashes.
> Being basically cheap, I was thinking of repairing it by
> overlapping the pieces about 6" gluing them, along with some
> pop rivets. 6" less freedom seems like a fair price for him to
> pay for chewing up his leash.
>
> I probably should be stitching it, but don't have a machine,
> and doing by hand is not worth it.
>
> Any idea what glue to use? Strong in shear and flexible. And
> should I glue smooth side to smooth, rough to rough, or rough
> to smooth?
After reading a couple of the replies I came to the conclusion
that if you don't already have the proper glue and
leather-fastening rivits on hand; and if you really /are/
basically cheap, it might be cost-effective to pick up some
inexpensive lightweight chain at your local hardware store.
Transfer the snap hook from the leash to one end of the chain and
use a loop of leather from the old leash to make a comfortable
handle at the other end.
The rebuilt leash will outlast the dog's teeth.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA