Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a
7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've
done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
"Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane
> a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want
> to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also,
> it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want
> one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through
> the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
> looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else
> I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
The 7/8"? I doubt you would be able to get the board past the guard.
Straighten the board on a TS riding on a jig. You may end up with a board
that will fit your jointer after trimming the edges.
If you were able to run the 7" wide board through the jointer and then
flipped it to work the 7/8" piece, you will have to keep the rest of the 6
1/8" of the board off the table surface, not likely to happen.
I would rip it, flatten it, straighten the 2 mating edges and glue it back
together.
Tim Taylor wrote:
> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a
> 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
> have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
> just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
> Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
> second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
> looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've
> done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
You could build a sled for you planer and run it through. FWW had a
nice article on how to build the sled. Another method is to make a
small rabbit on both edges, large enough to leave 6" or less in the
middle. then take off the guard and the fence of you jointer and run
this 6" middle section until it is flat, then using this flat as a
reference run it through your planer until the opposite side is good,
then flip the board and plane until the rabbits disappear.
Another way is to check with any local woodworking shops and see if
they'd let you buy time on one of their machines.
You may also want to rethink not wanting a handplane. Often using
handtools in conjunction with your power tools is the quickest and most
efficient manner of working. But be forewarned if you do get the
handplane it might be the first step into neanderdom.
> You could build a sled for you planer and run it through. FWW had a
> nice article on how to build the sled. Another method is to make a
> small rabbit on both edges, large enough to leave 6" or less in the
> middle. then take off the guard and the fence of you jointer and run
> this 6" middle section until it is flat, then using this flat as a
> reference run it through your planer until the opposite side is good,
> then flip the board and plane until the rabbits disappear.
I'm pretty new at this, but the sled for the planer seems like a great
idea. What would I've purchased has more often than not been bigger
than my 6" jointer. And even had I purchased that fancy 8" jointer,
I've already encountered 9" wood that wouldnt fit that. I would hazard
guess that almost all home woodworkers are without a jointer large
enough for all their needs. My planer on the other hand is 13.5"
wide and would probably cover 90% of my needs. It also feels alot
safer than my jointer when running full faces of wood. I really want
to try this jig out and see how well it works.
Tim Taylor wrote:
> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a
> 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
> have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
> just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
> Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
> second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
> looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've
> done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
Sandah, straightedge, chalk.
"Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane
> a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want
> to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also,
> it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want
> one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through
> the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
> looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else
> I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>
>
>
See
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=7
or
Ask a friend, where do you live?
Dave
Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
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Tim Taylor wrote:
> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a
> 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
> have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
> just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
> Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
> second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
> looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've
> done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
My shop time is very limited. I seldom take the time to use the jointer
to flatten the face of the board anymore. Most boards can be run
through the planer only and be flat enough. If you're board is
reasonably flat, just put it through the planer only.
I save the boards that need the jointer (bad cup, twist, etc) for when
I need small pieces and then joint them. When I first started, I
foolishly spent a lot of time trying to flatten a 6-8 foot long board
all at once (when I had other boards on the pile I could've used).
> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer?
Kelly Mehler's suggestion:
Use a scrub plane. You can knock down the high spots until it's
reasonably flat. Then run the board, scrubbed side down, through the
thickness planer. That will give you a flat, level surface ---- and go
from there.
"Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface
>>> plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really
>>> don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back
>>> together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and
>>> don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it
>>> and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame
>>> question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to
>>> screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok.
>>> TIA
>>>
>> I put nearly all my rough cut lumber through the planer without first
>> face planing them on the jointer. The exceptions would those that are
>> badly twisted or bowed, or those that must be perfect for dovetailing or
>> whatever.
>> The place I buy my lumber puts out a pretty flat product.
>>
>> Don't know enough about your board to say if it fits that or not.
>>
>>
>>
> Toller, the majority of my stuff is pretty flat too and I do the same
> thing, run it through the planer and go on with it. But this piece is just
> a might cupped to do that I'm thinking.
If you have a planer, and the board is cupped badly, make a sled, and attach
the cupped piece to the sled, plane and flatten one side, remove from sled
and flip it over then plane the other side.
Dave
"Tim Taylor"
>>> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface
>>> plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer?
snip
>>> Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't
>>> really want one.
> "Teamcasa"
>> See
>> http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=7
>> or
>> Ask a friend, where do you live?
>>
>> Dave
> Dave, that's sure a pretty tool, but where's the cord? How do you turn it
> on??? LOL
> Seriously, if I started with one hand tool, I'd probably have to have
> another, then another. Like an addict you know. I "had" thought about it
> though, but never inhaled! :-)
> I'm in Ky.
I know how you feel. However, a hand plane is indispensable for a
woodworker.
I have all the power tools I need to build most anything and still find
myself reaching for the plane all the time. But you are right - it is an
addiction - and we are the support group and the enablers all in one easy to
meet place! LOL
Dave
Kelly , that was essentially one of my solutions offered. I said to
take a rabbit off both sides though. ( because my jointer can only do
a max width of 3/4 inch for the rabbit.) Keep in mind that this only
works for boards just a bit wider than the jointer.
After rereading his question and the responses, without a doubt the
ONLY answer is GO BUY A NEW JOINTER!!! It's obvoius he was just
looking for help with justification.
Tim, go buy that new tool!!!
Kelly E Jones wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Tim Taylor <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a
> >7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
> >have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
> >just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
> >Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
> >second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
> >looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've
> >done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>
> Well I've read the replies but haven't seen the correct answer yet :)
> so I'll chime in:
>
> 1) Rabbet one edge of the board with the TS, jointer, or router. The
> rabbet should extend 1" along the face of the board, and be just a
> touch deeper than you expect to have to face joint off:
>
> ---------------------|___
> |
> |
> --------------------------
>
> 2) Face joint the protruding 6" width of the board on the jointer.
> You may need to remove the safety guard.
>
> 3) You now have a face jointed board, with a miniscule rabbet. Throw
> it on the planer to get the other side planar, then flip it over and
> feed it through the planer one more time to clean off the rabbet.
> Your board is now jointed, thicknessed, and coplanar.
>
> Kelly
Tim :
wrote:
> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a
> 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
Another idea, that might work - a router sled? I've seen them described
in a whole bunch of magazines. Good for flattening dining tables, bench
tops, etc.
Get it reasonable, then push it thru the planner.
MJ Wallace
Kelly E Jones wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Tim Taylor <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a
> >7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
> >have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
> >just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
> >Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
> >second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
> >looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've
> >done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>
> Well I've read the replies but haven't seen the correct answer yet :)
> so I'll chime in:
>
> 1) Rabbet one edge of the board with the TS, jointer, or router. The
> rabbet should extend 1" along the face of the board, and be just a
> touch deeper than you expect to have to face joint off:
>
> ---------------------|___
> |
> |
> --------------------------
>
> 2) Face joint the protruding 6" width of the board on the jointer.
> You may need to remove the safety guard.
>
> 3) You now have a face jointed board, with a miniscule rabbet. Throw
> it on the planer to get the other side planar, then flip it over and
> feed it through the planer one more time to clean off the rabbet.
> Your board is now jointed, thicknessed, and coplanar.
>
> Kelly
Thats awesome Kelly! I find that even here the useful signal - noise
ratio is pretty poor. Its tips like this that make it all worthwhile.
CW wrote:
> Is it warped, twisted, cupped? You say that it is a nice looking board but
> want to face joint it. Why? Unless it has an obvious problem, just plain
> it.
>
>
> "Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane
> a
> > 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
> > have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
> > just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
> > Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
> > second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
> > looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else
> I've
> > done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
> >
> >
> >
How can you "just plain it"? You'll get two sides that aren't paralell.
"bf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Tim Taylor wrote:
>> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface
>> plane a
>> 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
>> have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
>> just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
>> Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
>> second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
>> looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else
>> I've
>> done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>
> My shop time is very limited. I seldom take the time to use the jointer
> to flatten the face of the board anymore. Most boards can be run
> through the planer only and be flat enough. If you're board is
> reasonably flat, just put it through the planer only.
>
> I save the boards that need the jointer (bad cup, twist, etc) for when
> I need small pieces and then joint them. When I first started, I
> foolishly spent a lot of time trying to flatten a 6-8 foot long board
> all at once (when I had other boards on the pile I could've used).
>
I understand the time thing, believe me!!! Well like I told toller, it's a
pretty special piece and I think it's cupped a might much to just plane it.
"No" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Tim Taylor wrote:
>> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface
>> plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't
>> want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together.
>> Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really
>> want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it
>> through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but
>> it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up.
>> Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>>
>>
>>
>
> Make friends with someone with an 8" jointer or farm out to a shop that
> has one. Where are you located?
>
> Inviato da X-Privat.Org - Registrazione gratuita
> http://www.x-privat.org/join.php
Well that's a thought. I might put an ad in the paper to see if anybody with
a killer shop needs a buddy! :-) Seriously though, I know they're out there,
the big machines that is, but it's just finding them. Normally guys come to
me wanting to use my machines cause their Craftsman whatever just won't do
the job.
BTW I'm in Ky.
Tim Taylor wrote:
> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a
> 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
> have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
> just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
> Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
> second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
> looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've
> done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>
>
>
Make friends with someone with an 8" jointer or farm out to a shop that
has one. Where are you located?
Inviato da X-Privat.Org - Registrazione gratuita http://www.x-privat.org/join.php
"brandom11" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Kelly , that was essentially one of my solutions offered. I said to
> take a rabbit off both sides though. ( because my jointer can only do
> a max width of 3/4 inch for the rabbit.) Keep in mind that this only
> works for boards just a bit wider than the jointer.
>
> After rereading his question and the responses, without a doubt the
> ONLY answer is GO BUY A NEW JOINTER!!! It's obvoius he was just
> looking for help with justification.
>
> Tim, go buy that new tool!!!
>
Sheesh! Take off the high spots with the jointer to get a rough level.
Half and half will even get you in the ballpark if you pay attention. As
easy as trying to get a rabbet on a twisted piece of crap on the tablesaw.
Can you say bind and kick? Of course you can.
If it's just cup versus twist, slide the fence to make narrow and reduce
either edge of the frown to take the pressure off the middle as you run it
through the PLANER. That's where the money should go.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface
>> plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't
>> want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together.
>> Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really
>> want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it
>> through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but
>> it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up.
>> Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>>
> I put nearly all my rough cut lumber through the planer without first face
> planing them on the jointer. The exceptions would those that are badly
> twisted or bowed, or those that must be perfect for dovetailing or
> whatever.
> The place I buy my lumber puts out a pretty flat product.
>
> Don't know enough about your board to say if it fits that or not.
>
>
>
Toller, the majority of my stuff is pretty flat too and I do the same thing,
run it through the planer and go on with it. But this piece is just a might
cupped to do that I'm thinking.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface
>> plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't
>> want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together.
>> Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really
>> want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it
>> through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but
>> it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up.
>> Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>
>
> The 7/8"? I doubt you would be able to get the board past the guard.
> Straighten the board on a TS riding on a jig. You may end up with a board
> that will fit your jointer after trimming the edges.
> If you were able to run the 7" wide board through the jointer and then
> flipped it to work the 7/8" piece, you will have to keep the rest of the 6
> 1/8" of the board off the table surface, not likely to happen.
>
> I would rip it, flatten it, straighten the 2 mating edges and glue it back
> together.
>
Thanks Leon. I didn't think my idea would work. Guess I just wanted somebody
else to confirm it.
Only if your planer is out of whack. Light passes on each side to clean up
then plane to thickness. Unless your board has serious cupping/warp, the
jointer is not needed.
"Frank" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> How can you "just plain it"? You'll get two sides that aren't paralell.
>
Is it warped, twisted, cupped? You say that it is a nice looking board but
want to face joint it. Why? Unless it has an obvious problem, just plain
it.
"Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane
a
> 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
> have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
> just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
> Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
> second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
> looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else
I've
> done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>
>
>
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is it warped, twisted, cupped? You say that it is a nice looking board but
> want to face joint it. Why? Unless it has an obvious problem, just plain
> it.
Yea it's got a bit of a cup in it, or should I say it had. I used the sander
method yesterday.
>
>
> "Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface
>> plane
> a
>> 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
>> have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
>> just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
>> Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
>> second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
>> looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else
> I've
>> done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>>
>>
>>
>
>
"Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane
> a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want
> to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also,
> it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want
> one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through
> the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
> looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else
> I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>
I put nearly all my rough cut lumber through the planer without first face
planing them on the jointer. The exceptions would those that are badly
twisted or bowed, or those that must be perfect for dovetailing or whatever.
The place I buy my lumber puts out a pretty flat product.
Don't know enough about your board to say if it fits that or not.
In article <[email protected]>,
Tim Taylor <[email protected]> wrote:
>Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a
>7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
>have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
>just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
>Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
>second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
>looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've
>done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
Well I've read the replies but haven't seen the correct answer yet :)
so I'll chime in:
1) Rabbet one edge of the board with the TS, jointer, or router. The
rabbet should extend 1" along the face of the board, and be just a
touch deeper than you expect to have to face joint off:
---------------------|___
|
|
--------------------------
2) Face joint the protruding 6" width of the board on the jointer.
You may need to remove the safety guard.
3) You now have a face jointed board, with a miniscule rabbet. Throw
it on the planer to get the other side planar, then flip it over and
feed it through the planer one more time to clean off the rabbet.
Your board is now jointed, thicknessed, and coplanar.
Kelly
"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface
>> plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't
>> want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together.
>> Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really
>> want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it
>> through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but
>> it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up.
>> Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>>
>>
>>
> See
> http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=7
> or
> Ask a friend, where do you live?
>
> Dave
>
>
> Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> http://www.usenet.com
Dave, that's sure a pretty tool, but where's the cord? How do you turn it
on??? LOL
Seriously, if I started with one hand tool, I'd probably have to have
another, then another. Like an addict you know. I "had" thought about it
though, but never inhaled! :-)
I'm in Ky.
"FriscoSoxFan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Tim Taylor wrote:
>> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface
>> plane a
>> 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
>> have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
>> just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
>> Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
>> second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
>> looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else
>> I've
>> done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>
> Sandah, straightedge, chalk.
>
Hmmmmmm, now why didn't I think of that one!! That's why I like this place,
you guys are great! Sander I got, and it's got a cord, so that just might be
doable. Thanks Frisco!!
"brandom11" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Tim Taylor wrote:
>> Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface
>> plane a
>> 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
>> have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
>> just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
>> Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
>> second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
>> looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else
>> I've
>> done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
>
> You could build a sled for you planer and run it through. FWW had a
> nice article on how to build the sled. Another method is to make a
> small rabbit on both edges, large enough to leave 6" or less in the
> middle. then take off the guard and the fence of you jointer and run
> this 6" middle section until it is flat, then using this flat as a
> reference run it through your planer until the opposite side is good,
> then flip the board and plane until the rabbits disappear.
>
> Another way is to check with any local woodworking shops and see if
> they'd let you buy time on one of their machines.
>
> You may also want to rethink not wanting a handplane. Often using
> handtools in conjunction with your power tools is the quickest and most
> efficient manner of working. But be forewarned if you do get the
> handplane it might be the first step into neanderdom.
>
Thanks brandom. With my screwed up schedule, it's really hard for me to
figure out when breakfast is compared to supper, much less be around to get
to a shop that would have one. Nice suggestion though. Uhhhh I aint real
sure about this whole neander way of life. It good for those who like it,
and I got nothing against it. I just like my machines.