I bought a new Bosch 1617 on Ebay last year for $120. Its not clear where
it came from, but was new.
The switch broke in the middle of a big project, and the local repair shop
wouldn't fix it under warranty because I didn't have a receipt. I wrote the
guy I bought it from, to see if he could help me out with a receipt. In the
meanwhile I shorted out the switch and turned it on and off with the plug.
The seller unexpectedly sent me a replacement at no charge and said he would
think about how I should return the old one. Since my router table has its
own switch, I offered him $70 for it, rather than returning it. I figured
that was a fair price for a used router with a broken switch. He accepted.
I then sold the base, wrenches, collets and chip shield on Ebay for $98.
So I started with a broken router and ended up with a new router, a router
motor for my table, and $28!
Not a major gloat, but aesthetically pleasing. If only I could do something
similar with my house.
Bean counters!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Larry C in Auburn, WA wrote:
> I understand your point Tom, but I think you've taken it too far. He just
> bought it last year so I assumed it was essentially new to him (i.e. I
> suspect he hasn't gotten much value out of it yet). So, either you count
> the $120 he spent on the first router or you don't include it in your final
> collection of goodies (i.e. the good news is he has a new router and $28 in
> his pocket; the bad news is he has a used $120 router that only has a motor
> and can only be used in a router table). Whatever though, I've already
> spent too much wasted time on someone else's $100 router...
>
>
> Larry C in Auburn, WA
>
> "Tom Veatch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>On Sat, 24 Apr 2004 18:42:26 GMT, "Larry C in Auburn, WA"
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>>Cool, but I'm confused by your math. Didn't you pay $120 plus $70 for a
>>>total of $190 and then sold the base, etc for $98? That would still be a
>>>nice deal, but it seems you forgot about your original $120 outlay, in
>>
> other
>
>>>words it cost you $92 instead of pocketing $28.
>>
>>
>>Depends on how you define the base state. If you start from the point of
>
> not having any router at all, then you are correct. But if
>
>>your initial point is a broken router in hand, as the OP stated, then the
>
> change from that point is as he said. He changed a broken
>
>>router into a working router, an extra router motor, and $28 in cash.
>>
>>It all depends on how you look at it. To use your approach to figure out
>
> how much you current automobile cost, for example, you'd
>
>>have to add up the purchase price plus maintenance costs for all the
>
> automobiles you have ever owned and subtract the amount
>
>>received from selling or trading each. That is a valid measure of the cost
>
> of your present automobile, but ignores the "value" of
>
>>any use you might have gotten from the items in the interim.
>>
>>Tom Veatch
>>Wichita, KS USA
>
>
Pretty cool!
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:X_gic.2368$%[email protected]...
> I bought a new Bosch 1617 on Ebay last year for $120. Its not clear where
> it came from, but was new.
> The switch broke in the middle of a big project, and the local repair shop
> wouldn't fix it under warranty because I didn't have a receipt. I wrote
the
> guy I bought it from, to see if he could help me out with a receipt. In
the
> meanwhile I shorted out the switch and turned it on and off with the plug.
> The seller unexpectedly sent me a replacement at no charge and said he
would
> think about how I should return the old one. Since my router table has its
> own switch, I offered him $70 for it, rather than returning it. I figured
> that was a fair price for a used router with a broken switch. He
accepted.
> I then sold the base, wrenches, collets and chip shield on Ebay for $98.
>
> So I started with a broken router and ended up with a new router, a router
> motor for my table, and $28!
>
> Not a major gloat, but aesthetically pleasing. If only I could do
something
> similar with my house.
>
>
Cool, but I'm confused by your math. Didn't you pay $120 plus $70 for a
total of $190 and then sold the base, etc for $98? That would still be a
nice deal, but it seems you forgot about your original $120 outlay, in other
words it cost you $92 instead of pocketing $28.
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:X_gic.2368$%[email protected]...
> I bought a new Bosch 1617 on Ebay last year for $120. Its not clear where
> it came from, but was new.
> The switch broke in the middle of a big project, and the local repair shop
> wouldn't fix it under warranty because I didn't have a receipt. I wrote
the
> guy I bought it from, to see if he could help me out with a receipt. In
the
> meanwhile I shorted out the switch and turned it on and off with the plug.
> The seller unexpectedly sent me a replacement at no charge and said he
would
> think about how I should return the old one. Since my router table has its
> own switch, I offered him $70 for it, rather than returning it. I figured
> that was a fair price for a used router with a broken switch. He
accepted.
> I then sold the base, wrenches, collets and chip shield on Ebay for $98.
>
> So I started with a broken router and ended up with a new router, a router
> motor for my table, and $28!
>
> Not a major gloat, but aesthetically pleasing. If only I could do
something
> similar with my house.
>
>
On Sat, 24 Apr 2004 18:42:26 GMT, "Larry C in Auburn, WA" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Cool, but I'm confused by your math. Didn't you pay $120 plus $70 for a
>total of $190 and then sold the base, etc for $98? That would still be a
>nice deal, but it seems you forgot about your original $120 outlay, in other
>words it cost you $92 instead of pocketing $28.
Depends on how you define the base state. If you start from the point of not having any router at all, then you are correct. But if
your initial point is a broken router in hand, as the OP stated, then the change from that point is as he said. He changed a broken
router into a working router, an extra router motor, and $28 in cash.
It all depends on how you look at it. To use your approach to figure out how much you current automobile cost, for example, you'd
have to add up the purchase price plus maintenance costs for all the automobiles you have ever owned and subtract the amount
received from selling or trading each. That is a valid measure of the cost of your present automobile, but ignores the "value" of
any use you might have gotten from the items in the interim.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS USA
I understand your point Tom, but I think you've taken it too far. He just
bought it last year so I assumed it was essentially new to him (i.e. I
suspect he hasn't gotten much value out of it yet). So, either you count
the $120 he spent on the first router or you don't include it in your final
collection of goodies (i.e. the good news is he has a new router and $28 in
his pocket; the bad news is he has a used $120 router that only has a motor
and can only be used in a router table). Whatever though, I've already
spent too much wasted time on someone else's $100 router...
Larry C in Auburn, WA
"Tom Veatch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 24 Apr 2004 18:42:26 GMT, "Larry C in Auburn, WA"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Cool, but I'm confused by your math. Didn't you pay $120 plus $70 for a
> >total of $190 and then sold the base, etc for $98? That would still be a
> >nice deal, but it seems you forgot about your original $120 outlay, in
other
> >words it cost you $92 instead of pocketing $28.
>
>
> Depends on how you define the base state. If you start from the point of
not having any router at all, then you are correct. But if
> your initial point is a broken router in hand, as the OP stated, then the
change from that point is as he said. He changed a broken
> router into a working router, an extra router motor, and $28 in cash.
>
> It all depends on how you look at it. To use your approach to figure out
how much you current automobile cost, for example, you'd
> have to add up the purchase price plus maintenance costs for all the
automobiles you have ever owned and subtract the amount
> received from selling or trading each. That is a valid measure of the cost
of your present automobile, but ignores the "value" of
> any use you might have gotten from the items in the interim.
>
> Tom Veatch
> Wichita, KS USA