Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
coat something with a clear coat to protect it. I've tried spray on
polyurethane, however, after a couple of days it simply peels off with a
fingernail. Unfortunately I can't sand the surface I'm covering. However,
I'm wondering if there might be a clear coat finish that might have better
sticking/adhesion that poly.
Thanks,
Harry
Harry,
I've been following this 'thread' for a bit and it's really starting to get
ridiculous. You are spending so much effort on something that is de facto
'disposable'. {unfortunately, depending on the extensiveness of the fish
collection. . . it probably includes them, too - if the life span of my
wife's Beta's is any indication}.
'Particleboard' is basically sawdust mixed with water-soluble glue. Mix it
with water and it turns back into it's constituent parts. Putting a piece of
'colored paper' on top isn't going to stop that process. Putting a
waterproof film on top of the paper simply means that the top layer of paper
fibers will separate . . . first.
Our tank {although rather small, remember that fresh water weighs 62 pounds
per cubic foot, or 8 pounds per gallon}is sitting on an antique 'lacquered'
tray. The tray is sitting on an antique inlaid table. No problems and
everything 'fits' the decor. The 'antiques' ? - 'collected' or given over
the years . . . the 'eye of the beholder' sort of thing.
What we have for a 'coffee table' I got at 'K-Mart' a year or so ago. NOT
exactly an 'heirloom' item . . . Teak - made in the Philippines, so that is
actually Luan - in the 'Mission' style. Cost? - about $30. Less then getting
the wood and building it myself . . . and it is SOLID wood. And I would
guess about what the particle board & paper Wal-Mart / Chinese table cost
you.
FWIW - chalk this entire situation up to a 'lesson learned'. Take all the
advise you have received, and go to some Salvation Army or 'church outlet'
shop and get yourself something a little more substantial. It may be perfect
just the way it is. However, if you pick carefully, if you do have to
'refinish' it . . . there will be some 'meat' to work with.
Having particleboard furniture and water together is like having bare
batteries in your bilge . . it's simply matter of 'When' your going to get
burned !!
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"Harry Muscle" <fake@[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]>
wrote
> in message news:[email protected]...
> > On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 06:56:36 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
> > >it cause I'll ruin the existing veneer, and I need to protect it
because
> I
> > >will have a fish tank sitting on it.
> >
> > That surface is pretty much waterproof as it is. You only have to be
> > concerned with the edges, where water spills can get under the veneer
> > and degrade the particle board.
> >
> > Try using a small brush to put poly along all of the edges and seams,
> > you'll be good to go.
> >
> > Barry
>
> Actually it's not waterproof, maybe we're thinking of a slightly different
> veneer. I tried leaving a puddle of water on a test piece (away from the
> edges, in the middle of the piece), and after 1 hour the water had already
> caused the wood fibers under the veneer to expand and make the surface
> bubbly.
>
> I don't know if anyone has ever bought furniture from Walmart or the like,
> but it's the kind of veneer you'd find on their furniture.
>
> Thanks,
> Harry
>
>
>
>
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My bet is the material is a plastic foil that was heat shrunk to fit. So what
sticks to plastic? JG
Harry Muscle wrote:
> "B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]> wrote
> in message news:[email protected]...
> > On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:44:22 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
> > <fake@[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
> > >coat something with a clear coat to protect it.
> >
> > What are you covering?
> >
> > Barry
>
> Wood Print Veneer. I have a piece of furniture made of particle board
> covered in that wood print veneer that I want to protect with some sort of
> clear coat, but poly just peeled right off with my fingernail.
>
> Thanks,
> Harry
>
> P.S. If anyone knows what the official name is for that fake wood print
> veneer, please let me know. It's the kind of veneer you'd find on Walmart
> furniture for example.
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 06:56:36 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
> >it cause I'll ruin the existing veneer, and I need to protect it because
I
> >will have a fish tank sitting on it.
>
> That surface is pretty much waterproof as it is. You only have to be
> concerned with the edges, where water spills can get under the veneer
> and degrade the particle board.
>
> Try using a small brush to put poly along all of the edges and seams,
> you'll be good to go.
>
> Barry
Actually it's not waterproof, maybe we're thinking of a slightly different
veneer. I tried leaving a puddle of water on a test piece (away from the
edges, in the middle of the piece), and after 1 hour the water had already
caused the wood fibers under the veneer to expand and make the surface
bubbly.
I don't know if anyone has ever bought furniture from Walmart or the like,
but it's the kind of veneer you'd find on their furniture.
Thanks,
Harry
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"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yYAMb.3300$%[email protected]...
> :) had I known it was vinyl I wouldn't have mentioned shellac! How
> about an acrylic sheet? or tempered glass?
>
> dave
>
It's not vinyl. It's particle board covered in wood print veneer. It's
more paper like than anything else.
Harry
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"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Harry, tell them the rest of the story. That you want a clear coat that
will
> stick to the slick paper veneer of some press board.
>
> --
> Mike G.
> [email protected]
> Heirloom Woods
> www.heirloom-woods.net
I guess I should have explained everything from the start ... but I just
didn't want a really long post.
I'm trying to protect Wood Print Veneer. I have a piece of furniture made
of particle board
covered in that wood print veneer that I want to protect with some sort of
clear coat, but poly just peeled right off with my fingernail. I can't sand
it cause I'll ruin the existing veneer, and I need to protect it because I
will have a fish tank sitting on it.
Thanks,
Harry
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"Steve Knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> O
>
> >What are you covering?
>
> yes that's the key. shellac or a clear acrylic may do it. is it really
clean?
>
> --
> Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
> Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
> See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
Couple of questions. If the shellac will hold (I'm gonna try tonight),
could I apply something a little more protective over the shellac. My main
worry is water damage, and I've read that shellac doesn't stand up to water
too good. Do I have to use dewaxed shellac in order to apply something over
it ... or does that only apply when you're covering it with poly?
Also, would clear acrylic be water, oil, mineral based?
Thanks,
Harry
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"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> shellac. if it won't stick you are outta luck now that it's got poly
> that's peeling, the shellac hasn't got a chance either. shoudda done
> the shellac first.
>
> dave
>
Quick question. Could I apply something over the shellac (if the shellac
holds) in order to make it more water reistant. Btw, how not water
resistant is shellac? How long does a little puddle of water have to sit on
a shellacked piece before it starts to penetrate or deteriorate the shellac?
Thanks,
Harry
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"Lawrence Wasserman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Harry Muscle <fake@[email protected]> wrote:
> >Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
> >coat something with a clear coat to protect it. I've tried spray on
> >polyurethane, however, after a couple of days it simply peels off with a
> >fingernail. Unfortunately I can't sand the surface I'm covering.
However,
> >I'm wondering if there might be a clear coat finish that might have
better
> >sticking/adhesion that poly.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Harry
> >
> >
>
> What is the surface you are tryig to cover? You might try a first coat
> of dewaxed shellac like Zinssers SealCoat before the poly.
>
>
> --
>
> Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
> [email protected]
>
Using shellac seems to be the general consensus. I've read that it's
possible to dewax shellac yourself. If I can't get my hands on dewaxed
shellac (I'm more or less limited to what Home Depot or Canadian Tire
carries ... unless I want to drive far) could someone tell me how I would
prepare normal shellac so that it would accept a coat of poly over it. Also
is there any real difference whether I buy dewaxed or make dewaxed shel ,
xcept for time of course ... or in other words, which one is better?
Thanks,
Harry
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"Lawrence Wasserman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Harry Muscle <fake@[email protected]> wrote:
> >Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
> >coat something with a clear coat to protect it. I've tried spray on
> >polyurethane, however, after a couple of days it simply peels off with a
> >fingernail. Unfortunately I can't sand the surface I'm covering.
However,
> >I'm wondering if there might be a clear coat finish that might have
better
> >sticking/adhesion that poly.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Harry
> >
> >
>
> What is the surface you are tryig to cover? You might try a first coat
> of dewaxed shellac like Zinssers SealCoat before the poly.
>
>
> --
>
> Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
> [email protected]
>
First off, thank you to everyone who's following this thread and providing
help. I tried applying the shellac last night, however, it beads up. If I
spray just a thin layer it forms droplets on the surface. The only way to
get a smooth surface was to spray so much shellac that it creates a puddle
almost 1/16" thick. It did seem to stick better to the surface when I tried
scratching it this morning, but the layer of shellac is so thick it looks
really funny.
What materials would cause shellac (and water based urethane (Varathane
brand name)) to bead up, while polyurethane goes on nice and smooth but
doesn't stick well. Could it be wax? Or are there some plastics that
shellac won't stick to (I though shellac would stick to most plastics)? I'm
gonna start a new thread trying to find the answer to this one.
Thanks for all the help,
Harry
P.S. I also wanted to say thanks for those comments pointing out the
possible futility of spending all this time on something that is not even
made of real wood. However, this project has now reached a "challenge"
level where I would like to find the answer just to find the answer.
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"Harry Muscle" <fake@[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
> coat something with a clear coat to protect it. I've tried spray on
> polyurethane, however, after a couple of days it simply peels off with a
> fingernail. Unfortunately I can't sand the surface I'm covering. However,
> I'm wondering if there might be a clear coat finish that might have better
> sticking/adhesion that poly.
If it's bare wood you're spraying, poly will harden over more time
than a couple of days. It's still soft.
If you're spraying over another surface, you MUST scuff it up for
anything to stick to it. Once the window for a chemical bond is over,
scuffing it gives you a mechanical bond.
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 13:28:10 -0500, "Harry Muscle" <fake@[email protected]> wrote:
>Couple of questions. If the shellac will hold (I'm gonna try tonight),
>could I apply something a little more protective over the shellac. My main
>worry is water damage, and I've read that shellac doesn't stand up to water
>too good. Do I have to use dewaxed shellac in order to apply something over
>it ... or does that only apply when you're covering it with poly?
>
>Also, would clear acrylic be water, oil, mineral based?
dewaxed is more water resistant. it will not desolve with water just look bad.
I am thinking the rattle cans of clear spray would do it. but I think something
in sheet form will make you happier.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
it isn't wood... wood finishes aren't going to perform well on it. you
might consider something like heavy clear shelf paper or vinyl wrapped
around the edges and tacked on the bottom.
Bridger
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 21:54:53 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
<fake@[email protected]> wrote:
>"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]> wrote
>in message news:[email protected]...
>> On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:44:22 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
>> <fake@[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
>> >coat something with a clear coat to protect it.
>>
>> What are you covering?
>>
>> Barry
>
>Wood Print Veneer. I have a piece of furniture made of particle board
>covered in that wood print veneer that I want to protect with some sort of
>clear coat, but poly just peeled right off with my fingernail.
>
>Thanks,
>Harry
>
>P.S. If anyone knows what the official name is for that fake wood print
>veneer, please let me know. It's the kind of veneer you'd find on Walmart
>furniture for example.
>
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:44:22 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
> <fake@[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
> >coat something with a clear coat to protect it.
>
> What are you covering?
>
> Barry
Wood Print Veneer. I have a piece of furniture made of particle board
covered in that wood print veneer that I want to protect with some sort of
clear coat, but poly just peeled right off with my fingernail.
Thanks,
Harry
P.S. If anyone knows what the official name is for that fake wood print
veneer, please let me know. It's the kind of veneer you'd find on Walmart
furniture for example.
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 06:56:36 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
>it cause I'll ruin the existing veneer, and I need to protect it because I
>will have a fish tank sitting on it.
That surface is pretty much waterproof as it is. You only have to be
concerned with the edges, where water spills can get under the veneer
and degrade the particle board.
Try using a small brush to put poly along all of the edges and seams,
you'll be good to go.
Barry
In article <[email protected]>,
Harry Muscle <fake@[email protected]> wrote:
>"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]> wrote
>in message news:[email protected]...
>> On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:44:22 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
>> <fake@[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
>> >coat something with a clear coat to protect it.
>>
>> What are you covering?
>>
>> Barry
>
>Wood Print Veneer. I have a piece of furniture made of particle board
>covered in that wood print veneer that I want to protect with some sort of
>clear coat, but poly just peeled right off with my fingernail.
>
>Thanks,
>Harry
>
>P.S. If anyone knows what the official name is for that fake wood print
>veneer, please let me know. It's the kind of veneer you'd find on Walmart
>furniture for example.
>
>
In that case I would suggest clear contac paper.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Harry, tell them the rest of the story. That you want a clear coat that will
stick to the slick paper veneer of some press board.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Harry Muscle" <fake@[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
> coat something with a clear coat to protect it. I've tried spray on
> polyurethane, however, after a couple of days it simply peels off with a
> fingernail. Unfortunately I can't sand the surface I'm covering.
However,
> I'm wondering if there might be a clear coat finish that might have better
> sticking/adhesion that poly.
>
> Thanks,
> Harry
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
Harry Muscle <fake@[email protected]> wrote:
>Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
>coat something with a clear coat to protect it. I've tried spray on
>polyurethane, however, after a couple of days it simply peels off with a
>fingernail. Unfortunately I can't sand the surface I'm covering. However,
>I'm wondering if there might be a clear coat finish that might have better
>sticking/adhesion that poly.
>
>Thanks,
>Harry
>
>
What is the surface you are tryig to cover? You might try a first coat
of dewaxed shellac like Zinssers SealCoat before the poly.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> shellac. if it won't stick you are outta luck now that it's got poly
> that's peeling, the shellac hasn't got a chance either. shoudda done
> the shellac first.
>
> dave
>
Fortunately I only put poly on a test piece section.
Harry
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:44:22 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
> <fake@[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
> >coat something with a clear coat to protect it. I've tried spray on
> >polyurethane, however, after a couple of days it simply peels off with a
> >fingernail. Unfortunately I can't sand the surface I'm covering.
However,
> >I'm wondering if there might be a clear coat finish that might have
better
> >sticking/adhesion that poly.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Harry
> >
>
> What are you coating? Why can't you sand it? And, why does it need
> protection?
Wood Print Veneer. I have a piece of furniture made of particle board
covered in that wood print veneer that I want to protect with some sort of
clear coat, but poly just peeled right off with my fingernail. I can't sand
it cause I'll ruin the existing veneer, and I need to protect it because I
will have a fish tank sitting on it.
Thanks,
Harry
shellac. if it won't stick you are outta luck now that it's got poly
that's peeling, the shellac hasn't got a chance either. shoudda done
the shellac first.
dave
Harry Muscle wrote:
> Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
> coat something with a clear coat to protect it. I've tried spray on
> polyurethane, however, after a couple of days it simply peels off with a
> fingernail. Unfortunately I can't sand the surface I'm covering. However,
> I'm wondering if there might be a clear coat finish that might have better
> sticking/adhesion that poly.
>
> Thanks,
> Harry
>
>
OK, so you want to protect the termite puke from the fish-splash.
How about a sheet of 1/8" plexiglass cut to size at the local hardware
store/lumberyard?
It will just flex under the weight (if necessary) and it is absolutely
waterproof.
-Steve
"Harry Muscle" <fake@[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:44:22 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
> > <fake@[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying
to
> > >coat something with a clear coat to protect it. I've tried spray on
> > >polyurethane, however, after a couple of days it simply peels off with
a
> > >fingernail. Unfortunately I can't sand the surface I'm covering.
> However,
> > >I'm wondering if there might be a clear coat finish that might have
> better
> > >sticking/adhesion that poly.
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >Harry
> > >
> >
> > What are you coating? Why can't you sand it? And, why does it need
> > protection?
>
> Wood Print Veneer. I have a piece of furniture made of particle board
> covered in that wood print veneer that I want to protect with some sort of
> clear coat, but poly just peeled right off with my fingernail. I can't
sand
> it cause I'll ruin the existing veneer, and I need to protect it because I
> will have a fish tank sitting on it.
>
> Thanks,
> Harry
>
>
>
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 21:54:53 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
<fake@[email protected]> wrote:
>P.S. If anyone knows what the official name is for that fake wood print
>veneer, please let me know.
Plastic?
Poly or varnish won't stick to it. Lacquer will probably craze it.
Barry
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 10:45:44 -0500, "Stephen M"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>OK, so you want to protect the termite puke from the fish-splash.
>
>How about a sheet of 1/8" plexiglass cut to size at the local hardware
>store/lumberyard?
>It will just flex under the weight (if necessary) and it is absolutely
>waterproof.
Great idea.
I vote for Steve's method.
Barry
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:44:22 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
<fake@[email protected]> wrote:
>Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
>coat something with a clear coat to protect it. I've tried spray on
>polyurethane, however, after a couple of days it simply peels off with a
>fingernail. Unfortunately I can't sand the surface I'm covering. However,
>I'm wondering if there might be a clear coat finish that might have better
>sticking/adhesion that poly.
>
>Thanks,
>Harry
>
What are you coating? Why can't you sand it? And, why does it need
protection?
even worse! :)
dave
Harry Muscle wrote:
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:yYAMb.3300$%[email protected]...
>
>>:) had I known it was vinyl I wouldn't have mentioned shellac! How
>>about an acrylic sheet? or tempered glass?
>>
>>dave
>>
>
>
> It's not vinyl. It's particle board covered in wood print veneer. It's
> more paper like than anything else.
>
> Harry
>
>
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
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> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:44:22 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
<fake@[email protected]> wrote:
>Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
>coat something with a clear coat to protect it. I've tried spray on
>polyurethane, however, after a couple of days it simply peels off with a
>fingernail. Unfortunately I can't sand the surface I'm covering. However,
>I'm wondering if there might be a clear coat finish that might have better
>sticking/adhesion that poly.
>
>Thanks,
>Harry
>
Not a strong finish, but wax might waterproof the paper somewhat. The
epoxy I mentioned in the other thread might penetrate the paper as
well. Might be easier to just get some wood and make the stand
yourself.
--
- Charles
-
-does not play well with others
>What is the surface you are tryig to cover? You might try a first coat
>of dewaxed shellac like Zinssers SealCoat before the poly.
no not again (G)
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:44:22 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
<fake@[email protected]> wrote:
>Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
>coat something with a clear coat to protect it.
What are you covering?
Barry
:) had I known it was vinyl I wouldn't have mentioned shellac! How
about an acrylic sheet? or tempered glass?
dave
Harry Muscle wrote:
> Which clear coat finish has the best adhesion properties. I'm trying to
> coat something with a clear coat to protect it. I've tried spray on
> polyurethane, however, after a couple of days it simply peels off with a
> fingernail. Unfortunately I can't sand the surface I'm covering. However,
> I'm wondering if there might be a clear coat finish that might have better
> sticking/adhesion that poly.
>
> Thanks,
> Harry
>
>