I have just completed casting some concrete counter tops for the first
time. The final step is to wax them.
So, Minwax paste wax, a rag, and elbow grease. Right? How hard can this
be? The Minwax is maybe 8-12 months old.
The wax will not polish out. I have streaks left from the applicator. I
have tried putting it on thin. I have tried a bit thicker. I have waited
till the wax was dry to the touch. I have polished while it was still tacky.
Have I never been able to wax properly and only now has it become an
issue? Is it really this complicated?
How about some pointers. Really, any help would be appreciated here. The
best I have been able to do is buffing while the wax is still tacky, but
it is not an ideal finish. I also had some luck wiping with a rag just
dampened with mineral spirits, then buffing. Again, not perfect, and at
the start I used to much spirits and took the wax off entirely in a spot.
Here is the process:
Cast the concrete. Break it out of the mold. Let it cure. Grind the
surface smooth to 1000 grit. Seal the concrete. Wax.
Thanks,
Harvey
I used regular car wax and an orbital buffer on my concrete counters
with no problem. I assume you did this after sealing them...right?
worst case you may need to remove the sealer and redo that part then
redo the wax with a different type. you may want to try a buffer that
can actually produce a little heat due to speed to help with some of
the marks you mentioned.
below are some pictures from my project if that will help you out
any...
http://69camarorestoration.com/modules.php?name=gallery2&g2_itemId=888
-Inet
The only thing I bought from cheng was some fiber to addin... I was
going to use his coloring, but it was too expensive. Home depot had it
for $5 per bottle however I ended up using twice as many bottles as I
had intended.
At first I was trying to measure everything like a science lab but the
amount of water the cc called for just wasn't enough. The guys i had
mixing it in the garage just sprayed until it was pretty wet. Probably
not the best method, but it ended up working out with no problems.
Besides I'm not planning to park cars on it. :)
-Inet
At first I was very careful about doing exactly what the instructions
said, but over time I found working with concrete to be very forgiving.
This was the first project I ever attempted and it all turned out far
better than I had hoped. However my tolerance for messes is probably
higher than most peoples. :)
-Inet
It was poured 3 weeks ago. so I would think it is pretty well cured.
Anyway, what about this could cause my problem?
Thanks,
Harvey
CW wrote:
> How long has the concrete been drying? Try again in a month.
> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I have just completed casting some concrete counter tops for the first
>> time. The final step is to wax them.
>>
>> So, Minwax paste wax, a rag, and elbow grease. Right? How hard can this
>> be? The Minwax is maybe 8-12 months old.
>>
>> The wax will not polish out. I have streaks left from the applicator. I
>> have tried putting it on thin. I have tried a bit thicker. I have waited
>> till the wax was dry to the touch. I have polished while it was still
> tacky.
>> Have I never been able to wax properly and only now has it become an
>> issue? Is it really this complicated?
>>
>> How about some pointers. Really, any help would be appreciated here. The
>> best I have been able to do is buffing while the wax is still tacky, but
>> it is not an ideal finish. I also had some luck wiping with a rag just
>> dampened with mineral spirits, then buffing. Again, not perfect, and at
>> the start I used to much spirits and took the wax off entirely in a spot.
>>
>> Here is the process:
>> Cast the concrete. Break it out of the mold. Let it cure. Grind the
>> surface smooth to 1000 grit. Seal the concrete. Wax.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Harvey
>
>
Jody wrote:
> When I did mine, I used the wax from Cheng. I also used his pigments.
> They turned out great. I have rewaxed them once. They were done over a
> year ago.
What kind of wax did you use? I think maybe I need a better quality wax.
I used Cheng's new proformula - includes the pigment, admixture, water
reducer, etc. That worked great. I have a can of Minwax paste wax, but
like I said, I can't get a smooth coat.
Harvey
How long has the concrete been drying? Try again in a month.
"eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have just completed casting some concrete counter tops for the first
> time. The final step is to wax them.
>
> So, Minwax paste wax, a rag, and elbow grease. Right? How hard can this
> be? The Minwax is maybe 8-12 months old.
>
> The wax will not polish out. I have streaks left from the applicator. I
> have tried putting it on thin. I have tried a bit thicker. I have waited
> till the wax was dry to the touch. I have polished while it was still
tacky.
>
> Have I never been able to wax properly and only now has it become an
> issue? Is it really this complicated?
>
> How about some pointers. Really, any help would be appreciated here. The
> best I have been able to do is buffing while the wax is still tacky, but
> it is not an ideal finish. I also had some luck wiping with a rag just
> dampened with mineral spirits, then buffing. Again, not perfect, and at
> the start I used to much spirits and took the wax off entirely in a spot.
>
> Here is the process:
> Cast the concrete. Break it out of the mold. Let it cure. Grind the
> surface smooth to 1000 grit. Seal the concrete. Wax.
>
> Thanks,
> Harvey
inetquestion wrote:
> At first I was very careful about doing exactly what the instructions
> said, but over time I found working with concrete to be very forgiving.
> This was the first project I ever attempted and it all turned out far
> better than I had hoped. However my tolerance for messes is probably
> higher than most peoples. :)
>
> -Inet
>
Yes, my first time as well. About a month before the pour, I had the
fortune to be in the Bay Area and stopped by their offices. Though an
appointment was required, and we didn't have one, I raised them buy cell
phone and someone came out and talked with us. Many of the items
pictured in the book were on display. Amazingly, many of these early
items had cracks, mostly in places like between a valve opening and the
back - thin places.
Anyway, it seemed best not to reinvent the wheel, and to trust their
experience. Yes, not cheap, but I didn't want to do it twice! Besides, I
wasn't attracted to HD colors.
Anyway, well done! Enjoy.
Harvey
inetquestion wrote:
> I used regular car wax and an orbital buffer on my concrete counters
> with no problem. I assume you did this after sealing them...right?
> worst case you may need to remove the sealer and redo that part then
> redo the wax with a different type. you may want to try a buffer that
> can actually produce a little heat due to speed to help with some of
> the marks you mentioned.
> below are some pictures from my project if that will help you out
> any...
>
> http://69camarorestoration.com/modules.php?name=gallery2&g2_itemId=888
>
> -Inet
>
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing. You pored in place - I made molds
and poured upside down. What additives did you use? I went with Cheng's
profomula, as it was easiest. The mix turned out real viscous, I think
because of the water reducer he uses. Anyway, I am glad I did them this
way, as I am not at all sure I would have been able to smooth the top
surface out as you did. Different than any other concrete I had used!
Harvey