Hu

HerHusband

11/05/2004 2:59 PM

Edge Joining Boards - Planer or benchtop jointer?

I will be building a number of small cabinets soon, and will need to edge
join a fair number of pine boards to make panels. I don't want to spend a
lot on tools, so I'm wondering how I can best prepare the boards for
joining.

I already have a planer, so I'm curious if I could rip the boards to
identical widths, then gang them together and run them through the planer
to smooth the edges?

I might spring for a small benchtop jointer (~$200) if I thought it was
worth the money. But, never having used a jointer, I have no idea what to
look for, or whether a benchtop jointer is even worth the money? I don't
have the space or the desire to spend a lot of money on a fancier jointer.

I've edge joined a few boards in the past by just ripping them to width on
my table saw. For my eye, the panels turned out quite nice without any
further treatment. Is there a reason I would even need to plane/joint the
edges in the first place?

Thanks,

Anthony


This topic has 7 replies

b

in reply to HerHusband on 11/05/2004 2:59 PM

11/05/2004 9:49 AM

On Tue, 11 May 2004 14:59:22 -0000, HerHusband <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I will be building a number of small cabinets soon, and will need to edge
>join a fair number of pine boards to make panels. I don't want to spend a
>lot on tools, so I'm wondering how I can best prepare the boards for
>joining.

with a jointer, either the electric or neander type.



>
>I already have a planer, so I'm curious if I could rip the boards to
>identical widths, then gang them together and run them through the planer
>to smooth the edges?

that will get the edges smooth, but not necessarily straight.




>
>I might spring for a small benchtop jointer (~$200) if I thought it was
>worth the money. But, never having used a jointer, I have no idea what to
>look for, or whether a benchtop jointer is even worth the money? I don't
>have the space or the desire to spend a lot of money on a fancier jointer.

consider buying a #6 or #7 jointing plane. lots of fun, stores away
easily and makes cool curly shavings...





>
>I've edge joined a few boards in the past by just ripping them to width on
>my table saw. For my eye, the panels turned out quite nice without any
>further treatment. Is there a reason I would even need to plane/joint the
>edges in the first place?

if you're getting good enough results that way, why did you ask this
question?

a well tuned tablesaw can produce joint ready edges on straight
boards. it's when you are dealing with less than perfect lumber that a
jointer shows it's stuff....






>
>Thanks,
>
>Anthony

DB

Dave Balderstone

in reply to HerHusband on 11/05/2004 2:59 PM

11/05/2004 6:10 PM

In article <[email protected]>, Donnie Vazquez
<[email protected]> wrote:

> These work well for me.

Easy enough to build a sled to do it, too.

djb

DV

Donnie Vazquez

in reply to HerHusband on 11/05/2004 2:59 PM

11/05/2004 11:51 AM

HerHusband wrote:

> I will be building a number of small cabinets soon, and will need to edge
> join a fair number of pine boards to make panels. I don't want to spend a
> lot on tools, so I'm wondering how I can best prepare the boards for
> joining.

These work well for me.

http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=3203&gift=False&mscssid=C1EEDE11F0224EC3AC829873995A883A

--
Donnie Vazquez
Sunderland, MD

LH

"Lowell Holmes"

in reply to HerHusband on 11/05/2004 2:59 PM

11/05/2004 10:22 AM

As long as you can come up with an edge to put against the fence, it'll
work. I rip a board once and then rip it again, just taking off 1/32" for
the glue edge. If you get a panel made up that is not acceptable, you can
rip the panel exactly on the glue line and re-glue the joint to fix it.

If you buy your wood from a supplier that is a real lumber yard, some of
them can give you S2S1E (smooth two sides and one edge) that will be planed
to thickness and straight on one edge. It costs me an extra 15 cents per
board foot for this service.

I use a 607 Bedrock hand plane to straighten a lot of my boards and then
joint them on a tablesaw with a WWII combination blade.

The planer will work with a straight side to ride against the table. If the
board is crooked, the new edge will be parallel to the crooked edge.

"HerHusband" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I will be building a number of small cabinets soon, and will need to edge
> join a fair number of pine boards to make panels. I don't want to spend a
> lot on tools, so I'm wondering how I can best prepare the boards for
> joining.
>
> I already have a planer, so I'm curious if I could rip the boards to
> identical widths, then gang them together and run them through the planer
> to smooth the edges?
>
> I might spring for a small benchtop jointer (~$200) if I thought it was
> worth the money. But, never having used a jointer, I have no idea what to
> look for, or whether a benchtop jointer is even worth the money? I don't
> have the space or the desire to spend a lot of money on a fancier jointer.
>
> I've edge joined a few boards in the past by just ripping them to width on
> my table saw. For my eye, the panels turned out quite nice without any
> further treatment. Is there a reason I would even need to plane/joint the
> edges in the first place?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Anthony

wP

[email protected] (Paul Andersen)

in reply to HerHusband on 11/05/2004 2:59 PM

11/05/2004 1:21 PM

If you have a reasonable quality tablesaw and you use a good blade,
you should be able to make cuts that are clean enough to use for
glue-up.

Woodchip

HerHusband <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I will be building a number of small cabinets soon, and will need to edge
> join a fair number of pine boards to make panels. I don't want to spend a
> lot on tools, so I'm wondering how I can best prepare the boards for
> joining.
>
> I already have a planer, so I'm curious if I could rip the boards to
> identical widths, then gang them together and run them through the planer
> to smooth the edges?
>
> I might spring for a small benchtop jointer (~$200) if I thought it was
> worth the money. But, never having used a jointer, I have no idea what to
> look for, or whether a benchtop jointer is even worth the money? I don't
> have the space or the desire to spend a lot of money on a fancier jointer.
>
> I've edge joined a few boards in the past by just ripping them to width on
> my table saw. For my eye, the panels turned out quite nice without any
> further treatment. Is there a reason I would even need to plane/joint the
> edges in the first place?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Anthony

Sk

"Swingman"

in reply to HerHusband on 11/05/2004 2:59 PM

11/05/2004 11:04 AM


"HerHusband" wrote in message

> I already have a planer, so I'm curious if I could rip the boards to
> identical widths, then gang them together and run them through the planer
> to smooth the edges?

If you're primarily dealing with dimensioned lumber, or S1S/S2S1E hardwoods
(or if you're good with a hand plane), you can certainly get by without a
jointer.

At a minimum, a long bed 6" jointer should be in your plans if you're
serious about woodworking. But I would rather have a benchtop jointer than
none at all, for you may be surprised at how useful the tool can be .. and
not just for jointing and surfacing stock.

One of the problems with buying a benchtop is by the time you've bought it,
you've gone a good way to paying for a stand-alone.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/13/04.



As

Australopithecus scobis

in reply to HerHusband on 11/05/2004 2:59 PM

11/05/2004 1:36 PM

In article <[email protected]>,
"Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote:

> I use a 607 Bedrock hand plane to straighten a lot of my boards and then
> joint them on a tablesaw with a WWII combination blade.

OT :)
Every time I see that, I read it as "World War Two," and a WWII
combination blade means, to me, a Fairbairne dagger...
--
"Keep your ass behind you."


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