I had to make a replacement piece of bent wood for an outdoor gate top and I
made it from thin strips of White Oak glued up with Titebond III. Some of
the strips did not line up when clamped and the edges need trimming to make
them smooth. I was wondering if I could run one side twice through my
jointer set at 1/32 or smaller and then trim the other side on the table or
band saw. The bent piece has 90 degree bends at each end. I don't want to
ruin a set of jointer knives and wonder if the glue up would hurt them. I
also thought of using a carbide bit in my table mounted router with the
fence set to trim up the sides.
Any experience/recommendations?
Dustmaker wrote:
>
> I had to make a replacement piece of bent wood for an outdoor gate top and I
> made it from thin strips of White Oak glued up with Titebond III. Some of
> the strips did not line up when clamped and the edges need trimming to make
> them smooth. I was wondering if I could run one side twice through my
> jointer set at 1/32 or smaller and then trim the other side on the table or
> band saw. The bent piece has 90 degree bends at each end. I don't want to
> ruin a set of jointer knives and wonder if the glue up would hurt them. I
> also thought of using a carbide bit in my table mounted router with the
> fence set to trim up the sides.
>
> Any experience/recommendations?
First, I'll note that white oak for outside application is a poor
choice...it withstands weather very poorly although on top w/ no end
grain showing it'll help some.
Otherwise, you're asking to tear up the workpiece by running thin cross
grain over a jointer although there's no risk to the jointer from poly
glues (unless you've left a tremendous glob).
Depending on how much overlap you have, there are three ways I'd
approach the task.
1. Hand tools--sharp block plane or chisel will pare it down very
quickly
2. For outside work such as that I would also reach for the belt sander
3. Last choice because it's more trouble to set up than it would take
otherwise would be router w/ pilot bit.
C & S wrote:
>
> > First, I'll note that white oak for outside application is a poor
> > choice...it withstands weather very poorly although on top w/ no end
> > grain showing it'll help some.
>
> I beleive you're mistaken Red oak does not fare well. White oak does just
> fine.
You're right...don't know why I said that against the white oak...
Ba r r y wrote:
>
> On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 10:49:31 -0500, Duane Bozarth
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >First, I'll note that white oak for outside application is a poor
> >choice..
>
> White oak is an EXCELLENT outdoor wood.
...
I had already posted the "mea culpa", thanks....
The hand plane did the trick. Sometimes we get so involved in using power
tools that we forget there are still hand tools.
I used a cabinet scraper to take off larger globs of glue and then took a
bunch of shallow cuts with my Jack plane.
There were a few voids where the clamping did not bring the plys close
enough. Filled them with solvent based wood filler and sanded with the belt
sander. Now the piece looks so good I want to use it for furniture instead
of putting it outside.
White Oak is the weather resistant wood and Tightbond III is the waterproof
glue. A couple of coats of pigmented stain/sealer and I hope it's good for
the next 25 years. After that, the next owner of this house can worry about
it.
Thanks for the quick replies. I've been away from the newsgroup for a few
months.
Dustmaker
"Dustmaker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I had to make a replacement piece of bent wood for an outdoor gate top and
>I made it from thin strips of White Oak glued up with Titebond III. Some
>of the strips did not line up when clamped and the edges need trimming to
>make them smooth. I was wondering if I could run one side twice through my
>jointer set at 1/32 or smaller and then trim the other side on the table or
>band saw. The bent piece has 90 degree bends at each end. I don't want to
>ruin a set of jointer knives and wonder if the glue up would hurt them. I
>also thought of using a carbide bit in my table mounted router with the
>fence set to trim up the sides.
>
> Any experience/recommendations?
>
> First, I'll note that white oak for outside application is a poor
> choice...it withstands weather very poorly although on top w/ no end
> grain showing it'll help some.
I beleive you're mistaken Red oak does not fare well. White oak does just
fine.
>
> 1. Hand tools--sharp block plane or chisel will pare it down very
> quickly
> 2. For outside work such as that I would also reach for the belt sander
That said plane or belt sander would be my joices as well. I would be a
little mor concerned with loosing flesh than the edge on my jointer knives.
-Steve
On Sun, 16 Oct 2005 08:37:12 -0500, Duane Bozarth
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Ba r r y wrote:
>>
>> On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 10:49:31 -0500, Duane Bozarth
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >First, I'll note that white oak for outside application is a poor
>> >choice..
>>
>> White oak is an EXCELLENT outdoor wood.
>...
>
>I had already posted the "mea culpa", thanks....
Sorry I "piled on"! I didn't see the other replies until after I
posted.
Since I've posted enough mistakes here to fit everybody, I understand.
<G>
Barry
On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 10:49:31 -0500, Duane Bozarth
<[email protected]> wrote:
>First, I'll note that white oak for outside application is a poor
>choice..
White oak is an EXCELLENT outdoor wood.
I've used it for benches, window boxes, and exterior trim parts. Lots
of truck decking is also made from lower grade white oak.
Are you thinking of red oak? That's not so hot when exposed to
weather.