tmbg <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've used a scraper, it's just really slow and tedious...
Just yesterday I was working on some quilted maple and getting some
tearout even with my best planes. The solution: Lee Valley scraper
plane (their variation on the old Stanley #112). Cleaned it up in
short order.
Alternatively, if you have a #80 scraper, you can make it go almost
as fast, but you have to be a bit more careful to keep the board flat.
Chuck Vance
tmbg <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Planer seems to tearout more and more the thinner it gets, handplanes
> tearout a bit, and the drum sander's temporarily out of commission. Any
> suggestions?
How about a scraper?
Before I had a drum sander I would re-saw my figured wood with a carbide
blade and then plane the back side. The planed side would tear out but the
re-sawn side only took minimal sanding, worked great.
The carbide blades leave a nice smooth finish, probably because the tips are
square on the sides instead of tweaked out like the bi-metal sort.
m
"tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Planer seems to tearout more and more the thinner it gets, handplanes
> tearout a bit, and the drum sander's temporarily out of commission. Any
> suggestions?
tmbg <[email protected]> wrote:
: Planer seems to tearout more and more the thinner it gets, handplanes
: tearout a bit, and the drum sander's temporarily out of commission. Any
: suggestions?
handtool way: use a scraper.
power tool way: build a sled on which you mount a router. Put in a flat
bottomed bit. Build runners to either side of the maple piece,
equal height, and run the router back and forth, up and down.
Then sand.
-- Andy Barss
tmbg wrote:
> Sharpened the knives just before trying it, tried the water misting.
>
> I can get a reasonably decent surface if it's > 1/2", but when it gets
> thinner than that, I start getting huge 3/32" or deeper tearout spots
>
Have you tried running the piece through taped to a backer board? Maybe
there is too much flex at the thinner thicknesses that the backer board
would eliminate.
Gary
> On Sun, 01 Feb 2004 16:02:51 -0800, RWM wrote:
>
>>
>> "tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>
>>> Planer seems to tearout more and more the thinner it gets,
>>> handplanes tearout a bit, and the drum sander's temporarily out of
>>> commission. Any suggestions?
>>
>> Have you tried spraying the board with a mist of water before
>> running it through the planer? I am sure that you have already
>> thought of this, but make sure your knives are really sharp and you
>> are taking the lightest cut possible.
>>
>> Bob McBreen
On Sun, 01 Feb 2004 23:29:47 GMT, tmbg <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>Planer seems to tearout more and more the thinner it gets, handplanes
>tearout a bit, and the drum sander's temporarily out of commission. Any
>suggestions?
card scraper...
"tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Planer seems to tearout more and more the thinner it gets, handplanes
> tearout a bit, and the drum sander's temporarily out of commission. Any
> suggestions?
Have you tried spraying the board with a mist of water before running it
through the planer? I am sure that you have already thought of this, but
make sure your knives are really sharp and you are taking the lightest cut
possible.
Bob McBreen
Sharpened the knives just before trying it, tried the water misting.
I can get a reasonably decent surface if it's > 1/2", but when it gets
thinner than that, I start getting huge 3/32" or deeper tearout spots
On Sun, 01 Feb 2004 16:02:51 -0800, RWM wrote:
>
> "tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> Planer seems to tearout more and more the thinner it gets, handplanes
>> tearout a bit, and the drum sander's temporarily out of commission. Any
>> suggestions?
>
> Have you tried spraying the board with a mist of water before running it
> through the planer? I am sure that you have already thought of this, but
> make sure your knives are really sharp and you are taking the lightest cut
> possible.
>
> Bob McBreen
On Sun, 01 Feb 2004 21:28:47 -0800, Nate Perkins wrote:
> tmbg <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> Planer seems to tearout more and more the thinner it gets, handplanes
>> tearout a bit, and the drum sander's temporarily out of commission. Any
>> suggestions?
>
> How about a scraper?
I've used a scraper, it's just really slow and tedious...
My new WoodSlicer bandsaw blade leaves a much smoother surface than my old
blade, and it's easier to surface.. Plus I got the widebelt running finally
On Mon, 02 Feb 2004 23:08:17 +0000, markm wrote:
> Before I had a drum sander I would re-saw my figured wood with a carbide
> blade and then plane the back side. The planed side would tear out but the
> re-sawn side only took minimal sanding, worked great.
>
> The carbide blades leave a nice smooth finish, probably because the tips are
> square on the sides instead of tweaked out like the bi-metal sort.
>
> m
>
> "tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> Planer seems to tearout more and more the thinner it gets, handplanes
>> tearout a bit, and the drum sander's temporarily out of commission. Any
>> suggestions?