Rr

"Richard"

19/02/2006 5:11 PM

Question when sharpening chisels and plane blades

Folks, I have been using a grinder and white aluminum oxide stone to
hollow grind my chisels, then taking them to a couple of Japanese
waterstones to finish honing them. I have been removing the hollow
grind when using the waterstones, but it is an awful lot of work and I
am wondering if I need to. What is your opinion? Should I just grind
them to the approximate shape (until I get a good burr on the back
edge), then just hone them slightly on the rougher of the two
waterstones, then changing the angle a bit and giving them a microbevel
on the finer of the two Japanese stones? Thanks so much in advance for
your help, Richard


This topic has 5 replies

f

in reply to "Richard" on 19/02/2006 5:11 PM

19/02/2006 6:39 PM


Zz Yzx wrote:
> You don't need to grind the hollow off the bevel. Just get a flat
> surface (approx. 3/32") (guys?) along the cutting edge. That surface
> should have a mirror image along the back side of the bevel, leaving
> the hollow in between.

Right!

The advantage to teh hollow grind is that only a small bit of metal
needs to be removed when touching them up. Grinding away
the hollow defeats the advantage of hollow grinding.

--

FF

DB

Dave Balderstone

in reply to "Richard" on 19/02/2006 5:11 PM

19/02/2006 7:46 PM

In article <[email protected]>,
Richard <[email protected]> wrote:

> Should I just grind
> them to the approximate shape (until I get a good burr on the back
> edge), then just hone them slightly on the rougher of the two
> waterstones, then changing the angle a bit and giving them a microbevel
> on the finer of the two Japanese stones?

Once the blades are shaped properly, using the grinder should be a rare
event if you keep them sharp ont he waterstones.

--
Do the right thing. It will gratify some people and astonish the rest.
- Mark Twain.

ZY

Zz Yzx

in reply to "Richard" on 19/02/2006 5:11 PM

19/02/2006 5:44 PM

You don't need to grind the hollow off the bevel. Just get a flat
surface (approx. 3/32") (guys?) along the cutting edge. That surface
should have a mirror image along the back side of the bevel, leaving
the hollow in between.

-Zz

On 19 Feb 2006 17:11:30 -0800, "Richard" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Folks, I have been using a grinder and white aluminum oxide stone to
>hollow grind my chisels, then taking them to a couple of Japanese
>waterstones to finish honing them. I have been removing the hollow
>grind when using the waterstones, but it is an awful lot of work and I
>am wondering if I need to. What is your opinion? Should I just grind
>them to the approximate shape (until I get a good burr on the back
>edge), then just hone them slightly on the rougher of the two
>waterstones, then changing the angle a bit and giving them a microbevel
>on the finer of the two Japanese stones? Thanks so much in advance for
>your help, Richard

Br

Ba r r y

in reply to "Richard" on 19/02/2006 5:11 PM

20/02/2006 12:02 PM

On Sun, 19 Feb 2006 17:44:26 -0800, Zz Yzx <[email protected]>
wrote:

>You don't need to grind the hollow off the bevel. Just get a flat
>surface (approx. 3/32") (guys?) along the cutting edge. That surface
>should have a mirror image along the back side of the bevel, leaving
>the hollow in between.
>

That's the way I was taught, and it's worked well for me.

Remember to frequently touch up on 4000 & 8000 stones during use, and
you'll rarely have to reshape the edge.

Barry

Cs

"CW"

in reply to "Richard" on 19/02/2006 5:11 PM

20/02/2006 4:10 AM

Good advice below. Also, there should be no need to grind them often. Once
the bevel is established, maintenance shouldn't require anything more than
the stones.

"Zz Yzx" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You don't need to grind the hollow off the bevel. Just get a flat
> surface (approx. 3/32") (guys?) along the cutting edge. That surface
> should have a mirror image along the back side of the bevel, leaving
> the hollow in between.


You’ve reached the end of replies