A friend has asked me to build him a desk for his daughtor's room that will
exactly match a chest of drawers. The woodworking is real simple, but he
needs to know that the wood will be the same color.
The chest is fairly dark cherry. He says it is 5 years old and the color
has been stable for that time.
I did a google search on staining cherry and the most relavent thread is
dated today! People have said that cherry darkens all by itself, and should
not be stained (or dyed).
Well, he is going to be pissed if it is a significantly different color.
How long does it take for cherry to make this magical transformation? How
reliable is it? Does cherry plywood (the sides have no exposed edges, so
they might as well be plywood) also darken the same way? Is it plain old
light that darkens it, or UV from sunlight?
If it was for myself I would just build it and enjoy the contrast if it
didn't darken right, but he will not see it that way.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I couldn't find any lye, so I bought a bottle of drain cleaner made of
> sodium and potassium hydroxide. It took about 2 hours to get it as dark
as
> the piece I am supposed to match. Sanding took some of the color off, but
> also restored a little grain pattern to the otherwise nearly blank piece.
Must be the dilution. I dipped a piece in a 50% solution of sodium
hydroxide. Darkened too much in the time it took me to put it in and take
it out. I've not tried making it more dilute yet.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
I think you are missing the point a little bit. As an exact match is in the eye
of the beholder, one of the best pieces of advice I every received in this
group was to tell my clients (fussy or not) that I can give them a 100%
guarantee that the colour of the new piece will not match that of an existing
piece. This creates a reasonable expectation on the part of the client and
saves you from spending long hours trying to achieve the impossible. Cheers, JG
ps- While I will accept commissions from anyone I have two carpenter friends
who refuse to work for either physicians or teachers as they have found that as
a group they both have unreasonable expectations of others and are generally
cheap. ( Lower the protective shield around this ex-teacher)
Toller wrote:
> "Larry C in Auburn, WA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:eM2Mb.20433$xy6.55850@attbi_s02...
> > You need better friends. A friend of yours is going to get pissed at you
> > because the desk you made him isn't the right color?
>
> He's simply fussy, and wouldn't have any use for it if it doesn't match.
> Better to be upfront about it then to have him be unhappy with it.
> He is a surgeon, and I guess it is good that he is a perfectionist.
Absolutely. You want arrogance in your surgeon or your pilot.
See if you can find air-dried stock. Kiln-drying cherry bleaches it, which
helps hide the sapwood from you, but doesn't ever, in my opinion match the
air-dry kind. Where it's from seems to make a bit of a difference as well.
Pennsylvania stuff seems lighter than our midwest variety.
What you use for finish also makes a difference. I like running hot
Linseed/thinner in until refusal two or three times to cut down on the light
scatter from the surface before finishing with oil-based finishes.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Larry C in Auburn, WA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:eM2Mb.20433$xy6.55850@attbi_s02...
> > You need better friends. A friend of yours is going to get pissed at
you
> > because the desk you made him isn't the right color?
>
> He's simply fussy, and wouldn't have any use for it if it doesn't match.
> Better to be upfront about it then to have him be unhappy with it.
> He is a surgeon, and I guess it is good that he is a perfectionist.
>
>
Potassium dichromate in water. Best way to darken cherry, mahogany, etc.
RB
Toller wrote:
> "daryl1138" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>With a Lye treatment it takes about 10 seconds. Yea, I know that's
>>what I thought. Disolve the lye in water and paint on. I read
>>elsewhere it is reacting with the tanin (sp?) in the wood in the same
>>way years of UV would. Only here it happens before your eyes. The
>>grain will raise slightly which you simply sand back to smooth. I did
>>not cut a peice but the treatment seems to go quite deep. I was kind
>>of leary about doing this with the peice of furniture I just finished
>>so I tried it on a couple of scraps. The amount of lye determines the
>>darkeness (I used about 1 tsp to 2 cups of water and it matches a 2
>>year old footstool we have perfectly) so experiment. It will look
>>blotchy until it has had a day or so to dry. I think it also wise to
>>wait until this happens to sand the peice.
>>
>
> I couldn't find any lye, so I bought a bottle of drain cleaner made of
> sodium and potassium hydroxide. It took about 2 hours to get it as dark as
> the piece I am supposed to match. Sanding took some of the color off, but
> also restored a little grain pattern to the otherwise nearly blank piece.
>
> I can't see doing to an entire desk, and God only knows what it will do to
> cherry plywood; but it was a fun experiment.
>
>
Inside the cockpit, arrogance is willing to make the decision. What kills
is indecision as altitude decreases. Traffic control is for protection
against others, not self-survival.
Hate to tell you how many "arrogant" controllers there are (were) out there.
"Traves W. Coppock" <newsgroups-AT-farmvalleywoodworks-DOT-com> wrote in
message news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 10:33:46 -0500, "George"
> <[email protected]> Crawled out of the shop and said. . .:
>
> >Absolutely. You want arrogance in your surgeon or your pilot.
>
> Arrogance in a surgeon maybe,,,arrogant pilots are the first ones to
> ignore ATC's and end up making an aluminum shower. big difference
> between arrogance and confidence
>
> i was visiting my wife at work a while ago. some of you know she's an
> ATC, but anyhow...
> i am sitting there and i hear one of the other controllers tell a
> plane he needed to circle around the outer marker due to weather. . .
> he replied in a REAL snippy voice " you know, it costs my company a
> thousand dollars every time i need to make a circle up here. . ."
> to which the controller replied, "so gimme 3 grand worth"
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 10:33:46 -0500, "George"
<[email protected]> Crawled out of the shop and said. . .:
>Absolutely. You want arrogance in your surgeon or your pilot.
Arrogance in a surgeon maybe,,,arrogant pilots are the first ones to
ignore ATC's and end up making an aluminum shower. big difference
between arrogance and confidence
i was visiting my wife at work a while ago. some of you know she's an
ATC, but anyhow...
i am sitting there and i hear one of the other controllers tell a
plane he needed to circle around the outer marker due to weather. . .
he replied in a REAL snippy voice " you know, it costs my company a
thousand dollars every time i need to make a circle up here. . ."
to which the controller replied, "so gimme 3 grand worth"
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I've had very good results using two teaspoons of Red Devil lye in a pint
of
> water. Fifty percent seems like a pretty strong solution to me.
>
> --
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It sure it, that is industrial strength. Heavy stuff in a drum. We have a
couple of hundred gallons at work so I just gave it a try. I was astonished
at the fast reaction. I'd not even consider taking any home at that
strength.
Ed
With a Lye treatment it takes about 10 seconds. Yea, I know that's
what I thought. Disolve the lye in water and paint on. I read
elsewhere it is reacting with the tanin (sp?) in the wood in the same
way years of UV would. Only here it happens before your eyes. The
grain will raise slightly which you simply sand back to smooth. I did
not cut a peice but the treatment seems to go quite deep. I was kind
of leary about doing this with the peice of furniture I just finished
so I tried it on a couple of scraps. The amount of lye determines the
darkeness (I used about 1 tsp to 2 cups of water and it matches a 2
year old footstool we have perfectly) so experiment. It will look
blotchy until it has had a day or so to dry. I think it also wise to
wait until this happens to sand the peice.
Try it on the bottom of something or on a scrap. Worst case you're
out $2.59 in Red Devil Lye Drain Cleaner. If you do this WEAR GLOVES
AND TAKE ANY PRECAUTIONS NOTED ON THE PACKAGE. I can't believe people
used to wash with this stuff.
Daryl
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:gy%[email protected]...
> > A friend has asked me to build him a desk for his daughtor's room that
> will
> > exactly match a chest of drawers. The woodworking is real simple, but he
> > needs to know that the wood will be the same color.
> >
> > The chest is fairly dark cherry. He says it is 5 years old and the color
> > has been stable for that time.
> > I did a google search on staining cherry and the most relavent thread is
> > dated today! People have said that cherry darkens all by itself, and
> should
> > not be stained (or dyed).
> >
> > Well, he is going to be pissed if it is a significantly different color.
> > How long does it take for cherry to make this magical transformation? How
> > reliable is it? Does cherry plywood (the sides have no exposed edges, so
> > they might as well be plywood) also darken the same way? Is it plain old
> > light that darkens it, or UV from sunlight?
> >
> > If it was for myself I would just build it and enjoy the contrast if it
> > didn't darken right, but he will not see it that way.
>
> I'd say that if he's going to be pissed because cherry has the properties
> that it has, that maybe he should find someone else to do it. That's what
> I'd tell him if it was me. Other than that, maybe it could be toned the
> right color with a top coat that contains a UV-inhibitor.
>
> todd
> Well, he is going to be pissed if it is a significantly different color.
> How long does it take for cherry to make this magical transformation? How
> reliable is it? Does cherry plywood (the sides have no exposed edges, so
> they might as well be plywood) also darken the same way? Is it plain old
> light that darkens it, or UV from sunlight?
I don't think it's the UV, because I've had a cherry cabinet that I
made darken in the past year. And from what I understand, glass
blocks all UV (that's why you don't get a sunburn from sitting in your
house on a sunny day). So it's some other wavelength that does it to
the cherry.
I don't know what you should tell him, as I don't know your
relationship. But I would explain that the best pieces darken
naturally over time, and if you stain it, the value won't be as great.
Put it in the sunlight for a few hours at a time until it darkens to your
liking. Or, attach a photo of the other piece and the group may be able to
better tell you what's up.
Dave
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:gy%[email protected]...
> A friend has asked me to build him a desk for his daughtor's room that
will
> exactly match a chest of drawers. The woodworking is real simple, but he
> needs to know that the wood will be the same color.
>
> The chest is fairly dark cherry. He says it is 5 years old and the color
> has been stable for that time.
> I did a google search on staining cherry and the most relavent thread is
> dated today! People have said that cherry darkens all by itself, and
should
> not be stained (or dyed).
>
> Well, he is going to be pissed if it is a significantly different color.
> How long does it take for cherry to make this magical transformation? How
> reliable is it? Does cherry plywood (the sides have no exposed edges, so
> they might as well be plywood) also darken the same way? Is it plain old
> light that darkens it, or UV from sunlight?
>
> If it was for myself I would just build it and enjoy the contrast if it
> didn't darken right, but he will not see it that way.
>
>
In addition to all the wisdom floated your way... there is one more
thing: the color will vary from tree to tree or atleast grove to
grove.
My wife's cherry exterior cedar-lined chest is 4 years older than the
her rocking chair. The chair is significantly darker than the chest.
The chair is 5, the chest is 9. Both with the same finish (Watco
Natchural). Both live in about the same light level -- the chest
probably sees MORE light. The chair keeps getting darker and has
reached a magnificent deep red. The chest color is pretty stable.
When it was fresh cut the chair was distinctly red. The chest was
distinctly pink. This is why one attempts to buy by the flitch when
building a large project.
Explain to your friend that trees have genetic variability just like
his patients. Additionally, trees and people are also products of
their environments. Trees only have access to the minerals in the
soil.
The only way to guarantee a color match is to paint.
Good luck,
hex
Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<gy%[email protected]>...
> A friend has asked me to build him a desk for his daughtor's room that will
> exactly match a chest of drawers. The woodworking is real simple, but he
> needs to know that the wood will be the same color.
>
> The chest is fairly dark cherry. He says it is 5 years old and the color
> has been stable for that time.
> I did a google search on staining cherry and the most relavent thread is
> dated today! People have said that cherry darkens all by itself, and should
> not be stained (or dyed).
>
> Well, he is going to be pissed if it is a significantly different color.
> How long does it take for cherry to make this magical transformation? How
> reliable is it? Does cherry plywood (the sides have no exposed edges, so
> they might as well be plywood) also darken the same way? Is it plain old
> light that darkens it, or UV from sunlight?
>
> If it was for myself I would just build it and enjoy the contrast if it
> didn't darken right, but he will not see it that way.
-30-
"daryl1138" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> With a Lye treatment it takes about 10 seconds. Yea, I know that's
> what I thought. Disolve the lye in water and paint on. I read
> elsewhere it is reacting with the tanin (sp?) in the wood in the same
> way years of UV would. Only here it happens before your eyes. The
> grain will raise slightly which you simply sand back to smooth. I did
> not cut a peice but the treatment seems to go quite deep. I was kind
> of leary about doing this with the peice of furniture I just finished
> so I tried it on a couple of scraps. The amount of lye determines the
> darkeness (I used about 1 tsp to 2 cups of water and it matches a 2
> year old footstool we have perfectly) so experiment. It will look
> blotchy until it has had a day or so to dry. I think it also wise to
> wait until this happens to sand the peice.
>
> Try it on the bottom of something or on a scrap. Worst case you're
> out $2.59 in Red Devil Lye Drain Cleaner. If you do this WEAR GLOVES
> AND TAKE ANY PRECAUTIONS NOTED ON THE PACKAGE. I can't believe people
> used to wash with this stuff.
>
I can't find any other referrence on the internet to this process, but what
the hell... I will give it a try. Thanks
I know what will happen if I answer this.....BUT...
If you want to match store bought cherry furniture...or antiques....I use
Old Masters Cherry Wiping Stain item # 10504.....sand the cherry through 220
removing any burn marks, or scrape the piece. Use a natural bristle brush
and put a medium coat on.....I would take a piece of scrap and mask off 6"
sections, apply a medium coat to the entire piece, wait 5 minutes wipe one
section off....wait another 5 minutes and wipe the next off.....leave one
section without wiping so you will get a guage as to how dark you need to go
to match the other furniture.
After it is completely dry, up to several days, spary with several coats of
thinned shellac, or if you do not have a sprayer, a good quality brush, keep
a wet edge and do not go over any strokes. Wait until it is dry, usually
several hours, and hand buff with #0000 steel wool......tack it off and
apply at least one more coat. Wax when finished.
Sorry guys, but unless you want to wait about 100 years with the piece
sitting in a window gathering sun, this way works for me.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:gy%[email protected]...
> A friend has asked me to build him a desk for his daughtor's room that
will
> exactly match a chest of drawers. The woodworking is real simple, but he
> needs to know that the wood will be the same color.
>
> The chest is fairly dark cherry. He says it is 5 years old and the color
> has been stable for that time.
> I did a google search on staining cherry and the most relavent thread is
> dated today! People have said that cherry darkens all by itself, and
should
> not be stained (or dyed).
>
> Well, he is going to be pissed if it is a significantly different color.
> How long does it take for cherry to make this magical transformation? How
> reliable is it? Does cherry plywood (the sides have no exposed edges, so
> they might as well be plywood) also darken the same way? Is it plain old
> light that darkens it, or UV from sunlight?
>
> If it was for myself I would just build it and enjoy the contrast if it
> didn't darken right, but he will not see it that way.
>
>
Drain cleaner doesn't work nearly as well as lye (in my oppinion). I
used 1 tsp per cup and it worked perfectly. I did a king size panel bed
this way and it was the easiest thing in the world. I used the lye to
match up the wood, assembled, sanded as much as necessary and then re-
applied the lye. The spots that were already dark didn't darken any more
and any spots I'd sanded through darkened right back up.
I tried the same thing on some cherry plywood and it worked the same way,
BUT the plywood had a lot of sapwood in it and that didn't darken. I
assume that it looked the same after the lye treatment as it would have
after 20 years. If so, I'd sure have been dissappointed as the piece
aged if I was using the plywood.
BTW, I found that if the lye concentration was too high, it would leave
white residue after it dried. I had to use white vinegar to clean this
off.
Jim
> I couldn't find any lye, so I bought a bottle of drain cleaner made of
> sodium and potassium hydroxide. It took about 2 hours to get it as
> dark as the piece I am supposed to match. Sanding took some of the
> color off, but also restored a little grain pattern to the otherwise
> nearly blank piece.
>
> I can't see doing to an entire desk, and God only knows what it will
> do to cherry plywood; but it was a fun experiment.
>
>
In article <%[email protected]>, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
>> I couldn't find any lye, so I bought a bottle of drain cleaner made of
>> sodium and potassium hydroxide. It took about 2 hours to get it as dark
>as
>> the piece I am supposed to match. Sanding took some of the color off, but
>> also restored a little grain pattern to the otherwise nearly blank piece.
>
>Must be the dilution. I dipped a piece in a 50% solution of sodium
>hydroxide. Darkened too much in the time it took me to put it in and take
>it out. I've not tried making it more dilute yet.
I've had very good results using two teaspoons of Red Devil lye in a pint of
water. Fifty percent seems like a pretty strong solution to me.
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
"JGS" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
> I have two carpenter friends
> who refuse to work for either physicians or teachers as they have found
that as
> a group they both have unreasonable expectations of others and are
generally
> cheap. ( Lower the protective shield around this ex-teacher)
>
My step father did a lot of work for doctors. He put enough in the estimate
to cover all the additional changes he anticipated as normal for them.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:gy%[email protected]...
> A friend has asked me to build him a desk for his daughtor's room that
will
> exactly match a chest of drawers. The woodworking is real simple, but he
> needs to know that the wood will be the same color.
>
> The chest is fairly dark cherry. He says it is 5 years old and the color
> has been stable for that time.
> I did a google search on staining cherry and the most relavent thread is
> dated today! People have said that cherry darkens all by itself, and
should
> not be stained (or dyed).
>
> Well, he is going to be pissed if it is a significantly different color.
> How long does it take for cherry to make this magical transformation? How
> reliable is it? Does cherry plywood (the sides have no exposed edges, so
> they might as well be plywood) also darken the same way? Is it plain old
> light that darkens it, or UV from sunlight?
>
> If it was for myself I would just build it and enjoy the contrast if it
> didn't darken right, but he will not see it that way.
I'd say that if he's going to be pissed because cherry has the properties
that it has, that maybe he should find someone else to do it. That's what
I'd tell him if it was me. Other than that, maybe it could be toned the
right color with a top coat that contains a UV-inhibitor.
todd
When my customers ask "Can you match..." my answer is NO! I have a no stain
match policy and have had it for years. I don't lose much business because
of this policy. The little bit that I lose, those customers are going to be
more trouble than they are worth.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:gy%[email protected]...
> A friend has asked me to build him a desk for his daughtor's room that
will
> exactly match a chest of drawers. The woodworking is real simple, but he
> needs to know that the wood will be the same color.
>
> The chest is fairly dark cherry. He says it is 5 years old and the color
> has been stable for that time.
> I did a google search on staining cherry and the most relavent thread is
> dated today! People have said that cherry darkens all by itself, and
should
> not be stained (or dyed).
>
> Well, he is going to be pissed if it is a significantly different color.
> How long does it take for cherry to make this magical transformation? How
> reliable is it? Does cherry plywood (the sides have no exposed edges, so
> they might as well be plywood) also darken the same way? Is it plain old
> light that darkens it, or UV from sunlight?
>
> If it was for myself I would just build it and enjoy the contrast if it
> didn't darken right, but he will not see it that way.
>
>
The best finish I have found for Cherry is good ole tungue oil. A good rule
of thumb for using tongue oil is to apply it once every day for a week, once
a week for a month and once a month for a year, then every year after that.
Peppers
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Absolutely. You want arrogance in your surgeon or your pilot.
>
> See if you can find air-dried stock. Kiln-drying cherry bleaches it,
which
> helps hide the sapwood from you, but doesn't ever, in my opinion match the
> air-dry kind. Where it's from seems to make a bit of a difference as
well.
> Pennsylvania stuff seems lighter than our midwest variety.
>
> What you use for finish also makes a difference. I like running hot
> Linseed/thinner in until refusal two or three times to cut down on the
light
> scatter from the surface before finishing with oil-based finishes.
>
> "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Larry C in Auburn, WA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:eM2Mb.20433$xy6.55850@attbi_s02...
> > > You need better friends. A friend of yours is going to get pissed at
> you
> > > because the desk you made him isn't the right color?
> >
> > He's simply fussy, and wouldn't have any use for it if it doesn't match.
> > Better to be upfront about it then to have him be unhappy with it.
> > He is a surgeon, and I guess it is good that he is a perfectionist.
> >
> >
>
>
You need better friends. A friend of yours is going to get pissed at you
because the desk you made him isn't the right color? Sounds more like a
client than a friend and you should never mix business and pleasure.
Personally, I'd tell him that it might not match, ask him if he wants you to
make it anyway, then have a couple of beers and talk about women.
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:gy%[email protected]...
> A friend has asked me to build him a desk for his daughtor's room that
will
> exactly match a chest of drawers. The woodworking is real simple, but he
> needs to know that the wood will be the same color.
>
> The chest is fairly dark cherry. He says it is 5 years old and the color
> has been stable for that time.
> I did a google search on staining cherry and the most relavent thread is
> dated today! People have said that cherry darkens all by itself, and
should
> not be stained (or dyed).
>
> Well, he is going to be pissed if it is a significantly different color.
> How long does it take for cherry to make this magical transformation? How
> reliable is it? Does cherry plywood (the sides have no exposed edges, so
> they might as well be plywood) also darken the same way? Is it plain old
> light that darkens it, or UV from sunlight?
>
> If it was for myself I would just build it and enjoy the contrast if it
> didn't darken right, but he will not see it that way.
>
>
"John" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> The best finish I have found for Cherry is good ole tungue oil. A good rule
> of thumb for using tongue oil is to apply it once every day for a week, once
> a week for a month and once a month for a year, then every year after that.
>
> Peppers
>
Doesn't that start with "once every hour for a day...?"
-Chris
"daryl1138" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> With a Lye treatment it takes about 10 seconds. Yea, I know that's
> what I thought. Disolve the lye in water and paint on. I read
> elsewhere it is reacting with the tanin (sp?) in the wood in the same
> way years of UV would. Only here it happens before your eyes. The
> grain will raise slightly which you simply sand back to smooth. I did
> not cut a peice but the treatment seems to go quite deep. I was kind
> of leary about doing this with the peice of furniture I just finished
> so I tried it on a couple of scraps. The amount of lye determines the
> darkeness (I used about 1 tsp to 2 cups of water and it matches a 2
> year old footstool we have perfectly) so experiment. It will look
> blotchy until it has had a day or so to dry. I think it also wise to
> wait until this happens to sand the peice.
>
I couldn't find any lye, so I bought a bottle of drain cleaner made of
sodium and potassium hydroxide. It took about 2 hours to get it as dark as
the piece I am supposed to match. Sanding took some of the color off, but
also restored a little grain pattern to the otherwise nearly blank piece.
I can't see doing to an entire desk, and God only knows what it will do to
cherry plywood; but it was a fun experiment.
"Al Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I know what will happen if I answer this.....BUT...
>
> If you want to match store bought cherry furniture...or antiques....I use
> Old Masters Cherry Wiping Stain item # 10504.....sand the cherry through
220
> removing any burn marks, or scrape the piece. Use a natural bristle brush
> and put a medium coat on.....I would take a piece of scrap and mask off 6"
> sections, apply a medium coat to the entire piece, wait 5 minutes wipe one
> section off....wait another 5 minutes and wipe the next off.....leave one
> section without wiping so you will get a guage as to how dark you need to
go
> to match the other furniture.
>
>
I guess the two big questions are- So its not blotchy? It doesn't darken
with time and overshoot the desired color?
No, there is a third question - How do I buy it? A google didn't turn
anything up.
How many tongues does it take to make tongue oil???
I use Tung oil which is avalable from Lee Valley and many others. Look
for TUNG oil on Google.
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 22:35:06 GMT, "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Al Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I know what will happen if I answer this.....BUT...
>>
>> If you want to match store bought cherry furniture...or antiques....I use
>> Old Masters Cherry Wiping Stain item # 10504.....sand the cherry through
>220
>> removing any burn marks, or scrape the piece. Use a natural bristle brush
>> and put a medium coat on.....I would take a piece of scrap and mask off 6"
>> sections, apply a medium coat to the entire piece, wait 5 minutes wipe one
>> section off....wait another 5 minutes and wipe the next off.....leave one
>> section without wiping so you will get a guage as to how dark you need to
>go
>> to match the other furniture.
>>
>>
>I guess the two big questions are- So its not blotchy? It doesn't darken
>with time and overshoot the desired color?
>
>No, there is a third question - How do I buy it? A google didn't turn
>anything up.
>
"Larry C in Auburn, WA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:eM2Mb.20433$xy6.55850@attbi_s02...
> You need better friends. A friend of yours is going to get pissed at you
> because the desk you made him isn't the right color?
He's simply fussy, and wouldn't have any use for it if it doesn't match.
Better to be upfront about it then to have him be unhappy with it.
He is a surgeon, and I guess it is good that he is a perfectionist.