i wasfortunate enough to inherit a number of vintage craftsman shop tools,
namely a jointer, radial arm saw, 12 or 14" band saw (haven't picked it up
yet so not quite sure), and a beltmaster bench grinder. unfortunately, the
former owner is deceased and was unable to communicate anything about the
tools before passing, and the tools have not been used in some 15 years.
there is some light surface rust of course but nothing major. all are from
around the mid 1960's, full metal casings, etc.. oh yeah, a huge lathe too,
if i can find a trailer to haul it with
questions:
1) are parts and accessories going to be the same as what is available
today? for instance, i cant dind a dado head, so i will have to buy that,
and who knows what else, i still have some drawers to go through.
2) the motors all appear to work fine, except for the jointer. a
hand-labeling stick on the motor said "220 volts", and the plate on the
motor says "115/230" for volts; there is no switch to alternate between two
voltage settings, and the cord is a standard 3-prong 110. i plugged it in
and the motor hums and turns 1/8 turn if i help it a little, like it is
under powered and needs 220, but again, the cord is 110 and i am not about
to hardwire it for 220 as an experiment... ;-)
any help avaialable?
david
On Aug 31, 1:00=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> thanks for all the replies, can't wait to get home and take stuff apart a=
nd
> get it rewired.
>
> that said, would it do what i described if wired for 220 and fed 110?
If it's wired for 220, it has a 220V plug which won't fit a 110V
socket.
The hum/won't start symptom probably means there's sawdust or
other blockage in the starting switch of the motor. Open up
the motor and clean it out. Typically, there's a set of swinging arms
that operate a pusher ring that rubs against a piston; the end of
the piston is at the switch contacts.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "dpb" wrote:
>
>> Code, yes; law, unlikely that NEC is codified anywhere as law.
>
> Since NEC is driven by NFPA, they have a big hammer.
>
> If your building is not in compliance with NEC, don't be surprised if you
> insurance won't pay in case of a fire.
>
Not again. This fallacy has been beaten to death. Insurance pays
regardless of the idiocy of the policy holder.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"shooter357" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> One other thing to check is the start capacitor on the side of the
> motor. I have a sears jointer that I had not used for about a year
> and when I went to run it about 3 weeks ago the capacitor had exploded
> inside the housing. the motor will do exactly as you are describing
> it in this situation.
>
No - starter caps display a different symptom. Given a gentle nudge, they
will take off and run without at starter cap. That's not what the OP is
experiencing.
> Bad news is that no one I could find locally or on the net had a
> replacement capacitor that would work
Bah! A vast number of alternate caps would have worked. You don't need the
exact same model number cap. It's actually very rare that you can't find a
suitable cap that will fit the housing, with proper capacitance for the job.
>
> Good news is I found a surplus website that had a replacement motor
> for only $90; $100 less than sears parts wanted for their motor.
>
Ouch. That much to fix what a $20 cap could have fixed? Oh well - it's
working and that's what's most important.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"whit3rd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:051efff8-0bc9-423d-ac62-f5c59170a6cd@o36g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
On Aug 31, 1:00 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>> thanks for all the replies, can't wait to get home and take stuff apart
>> and
>> get it rewired.
>>
> >that said, would it do what i described if wired for 220 and fed 110?
> If it's wired for 220, it has a 220V plug which won't fit a 110V
> socket.
Not necessarily at all. Any homeowner could have wired the plug on to fit
an improperly wired 220v outlet.
> The hum/won't start symptom probably means there's sawdust or
> other blockage in the starting switch of the motor. Open up
> the motor and clean it out. Typically, there's a set of swinging arms
> that operate a pusher ring that rubs against a piston; the end of
> the piston is at the switch contacts.
Or... it means the motor is wired for 220V - which would produce exactly the
symptom the OP reported.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
thanks for all the replies, can't wait to get home and take stuff apart and
get it rewired.
that said, would it do what i described if wired for 220 and fed 110? that
is hum and "try" to turn a little when i push/pulled the belt.....sounds
like it to me, but then again i am a novice with the electrical stuff....
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> first of all, not being an electrician, how will i know?
>
> and if the cord is standard 3-prong 110, then i assume he must have
> hand-wired a junction of some sort with two 110's coming in to Y with a
> female 3-prong 110 ??
Huh? Sorry, but you lost me with that assumption. Again - why not open up
the motor cover plate and simply look at how the motor is wired? There
should be a wiring chart inside it, and if not, you can search on the motor
model, and find the wiring for 110 and 220. Assuming will only get you
further down a rabbit's trail.
>
> also, i assume that you get more power out of 220V? but for simple
> jointing
> i done see why you would need it, but maybe someone can enlighten me.
>
Incorrect. 220 will operate on a lower current draw and run cooler
(typically), but the motor is rated for one power rating - regardless of the
voltage it's hooked to.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Martin H. Eastburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ox%[email protected]...
> If it was set to 220 and still uses the 120v plug - that is a serious
> breach of law and safety.
Not a breach of any law, but certainly an unsafe practice.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> More than likely the moror needs to be oiled on both ends of the armature.
> I hate to admit this but my boat anchor Craftsman Jointer, 1983, has 2
> removeable oil plugs. Put several drops of oil in both and turn by hand.
Probably a good idea to look over the tools for oil fittings anywhere
there's
a shaft bearing and top up any that are found.
-Wm
first of all, not being an electrician, how will i know?
and if the cord is standard 3-prong 110, then i assume he must have
hand-wired a junction of some sort with two 110's coming in to Y with a
female 3-prong 110 ??
also, i assume that you get more power out of 220V? but for simple jointing
i done see why you would need it, but maybe someone can enlighten me.
as to the first reply, i am brand new here and dont know about the
"Shopsmith" thread.....
david
i went back to my uncles house and thats exactly what he had done. he had 2
outlets with wood swivelo covers with prominent 220 VOLT labels.
this guy was an electrician on B-29's in Guam in WWII and then at a sulfur
mine for 40 yrs after that, he knew what he was doing.
sooo----i think i am going to hire an electrician to wire my garage properly
david
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>i wasfortunate enough to inherit a number of vintage craftsman shop tools,
> namely a jointer, radial arm saw, 12 or 14" band saw (haven't picked it up
> yet so not quite sure), and a beltmaster bench grinder. unfortunately,
> the
> former owner is deceased and was unable to communicate anything about the
> tools before passing, and the tools have not been used in some 15 years.
> there is some light surface rust of course but nothing major. all are
> from
> around the mid 1960's, full metal casings, etc.. oh yeah, a huge lathe
> too,
> if i can find a trailer to haul it with
>
> questions:
>
> 1) are parts and accessories going to be the same as what is available
> today? for instance, i cant dind a dado head, so i will have to buy that,
> and who knows what else, i still have some drawers to go through.
>
> 2) the motors all appear to work fine, except for the jointer. a
> hand-labeling stick on the motor said "220 volts", and the plate on the
> motor says "115/230" for volts; there is no switch to alternate between
> two
> voltage settings, and the cord is a standard 3-prong 110. i plugged it in
> and the motor hums and turns 1/8 turn if i help it a little, like it is
> under powered and needs 220, but again, the cord is 110 and i am not about
> to hardwire it for 220 as an experiment... ;-)
>
>
Ummmmm... how about checking the internal wiring to see if it is jumpered
for 110 or 220, regardless of what plug is on it. I suspect it's wired for
220 since that's what the label says. It sure sounds like it's wired for
220 by your description.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Aug 31, 2:01=A0pm, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > first of all, not being an electrician, how will i know?
>
> Look at the internal connection diagram for starters...
>
> > and if the cord is standard 3-prong 110, then i assume he must have
> > hand-wired a junction of some sort =A0with two 110's coming in to Y wit=
h a
> > female 3-prong 110 ??
>
> No, _I'd_ presume he wired standard 3-prong outlet for 240V (not kosher,
> don't recommend it, but in a one-man home shop...)
>
> > also, i assume that you get more power out of 220V? =A0but for simple j=
ointing
> > i done see why you would need it, but maybe someone can enlighten me.
>
> No, simply lower current draw (by half) so get by w/ smaller circuit wiri=
ng.
> --
Yeah, you really dont need the 220V for a fractional HP motor like
that,
I would agree, as stated. cause of the hand written sticker, about
being wired for standard 3-prong outlet with 240V running to it,
As stated, I would look for the wiring chart, and just wire the motor
up for 110.
Tony
On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 20:00:35 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
>thanks for all the replies, can't wait to get home and take stuff apart and
>get it rewired.
>
>that said, would it do what i described if wired for 220 and fed 110? that
>is hum and "try" to turn a little when i push/pulled the belt.....sounds
>like it to me, but then again i am a novice with the electrical stuff....
One other thing to check is the start capacitor on the side of the
motor. I have a sears jointer that I had not used for about a year
and when I went to run it about 3 weeks ago the capacitor had exploded
inside the housing. the motor will do exactly as you are describing
it in this situation.
Bad news is that no one I could find locally or on the net had a
replacement capacitor that would work
Good news is I found a surplus website that had a replacement motor
for only $90; $100 less than sears parts wanted for their motor.
Brian
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>i wasfortunate enough to inherit a number of vintage craftsman shop tools,
> namely a jointer, radial arm saw, 12 or 14" band saw (haven't picked it up
> yet so not quite sure), and a beltmaster bench grinder. unfortunately,
> the
> former owner is deceased and was unable to communicate anything about the
> tools before passing, and the tools have not been used in some 15 years.
> there is some light surface rust of course but nothing major. all are
> from
> around the mid 1960's, full metal casings, etc.. oh yeah, a huge lathe
> too,
> if i can find a trailer to haul it with
>
> questions:
>
> 1) are parts and accessories going to be the same as what is available
> today? for instance, i cant dind a dado head, so i will have to buy that,
> and who knows what else, i still have some drawers to go through.
>
> 2) the motors all appear to work fine, except for the jointer. a
> hand-labeling stick on the motor said "220 volts", and the plate on the
> motor says "115/230" for volts; there is no switch to alternate between
> two
> voltage settings, and the cord is a standard 3-prong 110. i plugged it in
> and the motor hums and turns 1/8 turn if i help it a little, like it is
> under powered and needs 220, but again, the cord is 110 and i am not about
> to hardwire it for 220 as an experiment... ;-)
More than likely the moror needs to be oiled on both ends of the armature.
I hate to admit this but my boat anchor Craftsman Jointer, 1983, has 2
removeable oil plugs. Put several drops of oil in both and turn by hand.
J. Clarke wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>> first of all, not being an electrician, how will i know?
>>
>> and if the cord is standard 3-prong 110, then i assume he must have
>> hand-wired a junction of some sort with two 110's coming in to Y
>> with a female 3-prong 110 ??
>>
>> also, i assume that you get more power out of 220V? but for simple
>> jointing i done see why you would need it, but maybe someone can
>> enlighten me.
>
> Most Craftsman tools can be wired for 110 or 220--it's just jumpers in a box
> somewhere. You can find the manual and rewire it, put a 220v plug on it, or
> make up an adapter cord with a 220v plug on one and and 110v receptacle on
> the other.
>
That adapter cord idea sounds *very* dangerous.
--
Froz...
[email protected] wrote:
> first of all, not being an electrician, how will i know?
Look at the internal connection diagram for starters...
> and if the cord is standard 3-prong 110, then i assume he must have
> hand-wired a junction of some sort with two 110's coming in to Y with a
> female 3-prong 110 ??
No, _I'd_ presume he wired standard 3-prong outlet for 240V (not kosher,
don't recommend it, but in a one-man home shop...)
> also, i assume that you get more power out of 220V? but for simple jointing
> i done see why you would need it, but maybe someone can enlighten me.
No, simply lower current draw (by half) so get by w/ smaller circuit wiring.
--
[email protected] wrote:
> first of all, not being an electrician, how will i know?
>
> and if the cord is standard 3-prong 110, then i assume he must have
> hand-wired a junction of some sort with two 110's coming in to Y
> with a female 3-prong 110 ??
>
> also, i assume that you get more power out of 220V? but for simple
> jointing i done see why you would need it, but maybe someone can
> enlighten me.
Most Craftsman tools can be wired for 110 or 220--it's just jumpers in a box
somewhere. You can find the manual and rewire it, put a 220v plug on it, or
make up an adapter cord with a 220v plug on one and and 110v receptacle on
the other.
[email protected] wrote:
> thanks for all the replies, can't wait to get home and take stuff apart and
> get it rewired.
>
> that said, would it do what i described if wired for 220 and fed 110? that
> is hum and "try" to turn a little when i push/pulled the belt.....sounds
> like it to me, but then again i am a novice with the electrical stuff....
One possibility--they're others but that's a starting point.
Assuming, of course, that it's easy enough to spin by hand...
--
Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
> If it was set to 220 and still uses the 120v plug - that is a serious
> breach of law and safety.
Code, yes; law, unlikely that NEC is codified anywhere as law.
As for the safety, in general, agreed, it's not the right thing and
should be corrected if so but actually isn't much personal danger at
all. Biggest problem would be the other end--the wall outlet that would
allow for 110V stuff to be plugged in. Again, not particularly personal
danger; just liable to trash some appliances.
Again, I'm not advocating it; only that it isn't lethal...
--
If it was set to 220 and still uses the 120v plug - that is a serious
breach of law and safety.
They make simple to use plugs and wall sockets for just that.
Be careful.
Martin
notbob wrote:
> On 2009-08-31, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> 1) are parts and accessories going to be the same as what is available
>> today? for instance, i cant dind a dado head, so i will have to buy that,
>> and who knows what else, i still have some drawers to go through.
>
> Call the nearest Sears and ask for the location of a Sears Service
> Center (might be in same store or separate location). Sears is pretty
> good at providing parts for their stuff, if it's not too old.
>
>
>> 2) the motors all appear to work fine, except for the jointer. a
>> hand-labeling stick on the motor said "220 volts", and the plate on the
>> motor says "115/230" for volts; there is no switch to alternate between two
>> voltage settings....
>
> Lotta motors can be rewired for either voltage. Sometimes it's as
> simple as opening the access plate and reconnecting (a wire nut) a
> couple of different wires. Some Sears products have the instructions
> somewhere on the motor. Otherwise, again, contact your Sears Service
> Center. If you have a 110 plug, and it's not working, it may be the
> motor was wired for 110 and you just have a bad connection. Remember
> the post about the Shopsmith?
>
> nb
On 2009-08-31, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
> 1) are parts and accessories going to be the same as what is available
> today? for instance, i cant dind a dado head, so i will have to buy that,
> and who knows what else, i still have some drawers to go through.
Call the nearest Sears and ask for the location of a Sears Service
Center (might be in same store or separate location). Sears is pretty
good at providing parts for their stuff, if it's not too old.
> 2) the motors all appear to work fine, except for the jointer. a
> hand-labeling stick on the motor said "220 volts", and the plate on the
> motor says "115/230" for volts; there is no switch to alternate between two
> voltage settings....
Lotta motors can be rewired for either voltage. Sometimes it's as
simple as opening the access plate and reconnecting (a wire nut) a
couple of different wires. Some Sears products have the instructions
somewhere on the motor. Otherwise, again, contact your Sears Service
Center. If you have a 110 plug, and it's not working, it may be the
motor was wired for 110 and you just have a bad connection. Remember
the post about the Shopsmith?
nb