Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me, I
have permission from SWMBO to purchase another hand plane (she gets an
equivalently valued item as part of the deal).
I already have the following:
Lie-Nielson adjustable mouth bench plane
Lee Valley Veritas Medium shoulder plane
Steve Knight coffin smoother (it's on order)
Lie-Nielson 4.5 bench plane
Lie-Nielson small chisel plane
Now I'm considering:
The new Lee Valley Veritas bullnose shoulder plane
Lie-Nielson skew block plane
an edge plane from LN or LV.
a joiner from LN, LV, of Knight toolworks.
ECE moving fillister
Replies from Mr. Lee and Mr. Knight are welcomed but will probably be
considered ever so slightly biased.
Given that I'm doing a lot of tenon and mortises, rabbits, and dados,
I suspect the joiner planes are a lower priority. Besides I have a
electric 6" joiner. My router, joiner, planer, and table saw gets me
most of the way, I just clean up afterward with handtools..... The
woods I use are maple, lyptus, and occassionally zebrawood and white
oak. Have not tried other woods (yet). I use a lot of the birch veneer
plywood (the good stuff with 14 layers) for panels.
What say y'all? I'm itching to spend a couple hundred dollars but to
maximize my investment.
"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote
: Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me, I
: have permission from SWMBO to purchase another hand plane (she gets an
: equivalently valued item as part of the deal).
Is is perhaps better to avoid the embarassment of having to seek permission?
Why not negotiate a percentage of monthly income to spend as each other
pleases?
But perhaps this is too intrusive?
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email: username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net
"AArDvarK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:D5p2d.93508$yh.17617@fed1read05...
>
> One question please, what ius the difference between a Robin and a
> Leonard?
One is the father.
One is the son.
One is president of LV
One is the founder of LV
One has the Order of Canada.
The other has Orders from across the globe...
The son is the father of the man, no? (apologies to Billy Wordsworth)
--
Greg
"AArDvarK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Fmp2d.93512$yh.82202@fed1read05...
>
> HNT G makes Chinese and Vietnamese planes, not Japanese.
> Alex
>
>
That's not quite what he said:
"With the possible exception of block planes and the HNT Gordon
ones which work best the Japanese way, IMHO."
I agree with Noons, some HNTs pull better than push.
--
Greg
"AArDvarK" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<rjp2d.93510$yh.47796@fed1read05>...
> > If you plan to surface wood by hand, the longer plane will also come
> > in handy for flattening boards. Then you'll want a smoother for getting
> > the surface ready for finishing. (I really like the LV low-angle
> > smoother, but some folks report having problems with low-angle planes on
> > tricky grain.)
>
> I read at Steve Knight's site that a plane for figured and highly figured
> woods has a blade set at 50º - 55º, far different than a low angle, higher
> angle the standard 45º.
Well, what do you expect? Steve doesn't make low-angle planes.
;-)
Seriously, I know that is the common wisdom, but I have planed
everything from curly koa, to cocobolo, purpleheart, quilted maple and
mesquite with my low-angle smoothers. The real keys, IMHO, are
(besides having an extremely sharp blade) taking a very fine cut,
having solid bedding and a thick iron and the ability to close up the
mouth to eliminate tearout. My low-angle smoothers shine in all those
areas.
They also (being bevel-up planes) allow you to change the effective
cutting angle by simply changing the bevel angle. If your blade is
bedded at 12 degrees, sharpen your blade at 35 and you have a 47
degree effective cutting angle. Sharpen it at 40 degrees, and you now
have a 52 degree angle.
Don't get me wrong, I have a C&W wooden smoother with a 55 degree
bedding angle, and I have one of Steve's coffin smoothers that's at
55, and they are excellent for tackling figured woods. In fact, my
C&W is my "last resort" plane. However, I have noticed that I rarely
have to go for it as I keep a low-angle plane set up just for handling
tricky woods. (Yes, I have more than one low-angle smoother.) And
I've found that in most cases, if the low-angle plane won't cut it (so
to speak), then it's going to need to be scraped.
Anyhow, my overall point is that even more important than
bevel-angle is the combination of several factors, plus your
experience/comfort-level with the plane.
Chuck Vance
[email protected] (Rodney) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Thank you both for your replies. I have the same feelings about the
> rali. It seems to need adustment after every stroke.
>
> So LV low angle block
> what to use for squaring up a board? LV low angle jack?
> what to use for edge gluing.
I have used a low-angle jack for surfacing and even jointing for
very short boards, but IMHO you'd be better off with a longer plane, a
foreplane at least. Lee Valley also makes one of those, and while I
haven't tried that particular plane, I am a big fan of their whole
line of planes. Top quality at a very reasonable price, and they have
made some real improvements to the standard Stanley/Bailey designs.
> I am not apposed to Knight's wooden planes, or buying used, but I can
> only afford a couple of any style (baby steps). I have built a ton of
> stuff without planing a thing, but want to move my projects up a
> notch.
>
> First order of business is getting a 32" X 13" X 4" of fir good and
> square as is is my primary work surface.
>
> Next being able to edge glue boards without gaps or machines. I would
> idealy like to hand rip the boards and plane down to width and
> thickness by hand.
That's the way I do it. And that's where you really need the
longer plane.
> Last, a good general small plane to clean up and do end grain.
Lee Valley low-angle block or old Stanley #60-1/2.
> I have been a Popular guy for several years and just moved on to red
> and white oak for a few small projects - this is where I noticed the
> real need to plane the boards. I stopped sanding about 3 months ago
> when I dicovered scrappers - if I never hear that evil random orbital
> again it will be too soon. The hand tools make the experience zen
> like - much like doing kata in martial arts.
>
> My wife looked at my newly designed asian workbench and just left the
> room. She doesn't get the meditative felling I get creating these
> small projects.
Don't worry, it's a yin vs. yang thing. :-)
Chuck Vance
Oh, I use the chisel plane mostly to pick glue out of corners. Also to
help trim up pieces AFTER they are built. It is not used often but
neither are my other planes. I only build about two pieces of
furniture a year.
Just which chisels are you recommending?
patriarch <<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> [email protected] (Never Enough Money) wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me, I
> > have permission from SWMBO to purchase another hand plane (she gets an
> > equivalently valued item as part of the deal).
> >
> > I already have the following:
> > Lie-Nielson adjustable mouth bench plane
> > Lee Valley Veritas Medium shoulder plane
> > Steve Knight coffin smoother (it's on order)
> > Lie-Nielson 4.5 bench plane
> > Lie-Nielson small chisel plane
> >
> <snip>
> >
> > What say y'all? I'm itching to spend a couple hundred dollars but to
> > maximize my investment.
>
> A cool set of chisels?
>
> And how much use do you get from the LN small chisel plane? I bought one,
> because I really needed it for one special project, but haven't picked it
> up since, except to clean around it.
>
> Patriarch
I have a Veritas scraper, I forgot to mention... Thanks. I do not have
a scraper plane, they look nice although I've heard they're tricky to
use.....
Regarding timber, I've got stacks of "I'll use this beautiful wood
someday" in my garage. So your other option ("save it") might be the
best chioce of all....
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On 15 Sep 2004 10:22:29 -0700, [email protected] (Never Enough
> Money) wrote:
>
> >Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me,
>
> So save it, or buy some timber.
>
> The only thing you seem to be missing there is a LV low angle block (I
> put more miles on this than any other plane) and a scraper plane (#112
> or #80) to take the planer marks off your timber.
Yes I did mistype -- should have been "Lie-Nielson adjustable mouth bench plane".
John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> [email protected] (Never Enough Money) wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me, I
> > have permission from SWMBO to purchase another hand plane (she gets an
> > equivalently valued item as part of the deal).
> >
> > I already have the following:
> > Lie-Nielson adjustable mouth bench plane
> > Lee Valley Veritas Medium shoulder plane
> > Steve Knight coffin smoother (it's on order)
> > Lie-Nielson 4.5 bench plane
> > Lie-Nielson small chisel plane
> >
> > Now I'm considering:
> > The new Lee Valley Veritas bullnose shoulder plane
> > Lie-Nielson skew block plane
> > an edge plane from LN or LV.
> > a joiner from LN, LV, of Knight toolworks.
> > ECE moving fillister
>
> If you don't already have a good block plane, I'd say getting one
> of those should be top priority.
>
> If, on the other hand, you do have a good block plane (and I'm
> guessing you mis-typed "bench" for "block" in the first of your
> "already haves"), and you say you have a shoulder plane, so you
> might consider the L-N 98/99 pair. Surprisingly useful little
> dudes for rabbets & dadoes.
>
> The L-N 140 would also be a good choice for adjusting larger
> tenons. Also useful if you ever intend to build a boat.
>
> I haven't found too much use for bullnose shoulder planes.
> Maybe it's just me, but I've found it simpler to work up to
> an edge with a chisel.
>
> John
Is one in design?
BTW, the median shoulder plane you built me is very nice. I use it a lot.
"Robin Lee" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Given what you have now - my biased vot'd be for a skew block...
>
> Wait a sec....we don't have one of those.....
>
> :)
>
>
>
> "Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me, I
> > have permission from SWMBO to purchase another hand plane (she gets an
> > equivalently valued item as part of the deal).
> >
> > I already have the following:
> > Lie-Nielson adjustable mouth bench plane
> > Lee Valley Veritas Medium shoulder plane
> > Steve Knight coffin smoother (it's on order)
> > Lie-Nielson 4.5 bench plane
> > Lie-Nielson small chisel plane
> >
> > Now I'm considering:
> > The new Lee Valley Veritas bullnose shoulder plane
> > Lie-Nielson skew block plane
> > an edge plane from LN or LV.
> > a joiner from LN, LV, of Knight toolworks.
> > ECE moving fillister
> >
> > Replies from Mr. Lee and Mr. Knight are welcomed but will probably be
> > considered ever so slightly biased.
> >
>
> <snip>
>
> Given what you have now - my biased vot'd be for a skew block...
>
> Wait a sec....we don't have one of those.....
>
> :)
BTW, Mr. Lee, I have about two business trips a year to Montreal. One
of these days I plan to take the train to Quebec to visit your show
room.... I was in Quebec city last January (very cold). Hiked around
the old fort in the bitter cold wind but had a great time anyway. Both
Montreal and Quebec city are real jewels.
"Robin Lee" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Given what you have now - my biased vot'd be for a skew block...
>
> Wait a sec....we don't have one of those.....
>
> :)
>
>
>
> "Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me, I
> > have permission from SWMBO to purchase another hand plane (she gets an
> > equivalently valued item as part of the deal).
> >
> > I already have the following:
> > Lie-Nielson adjustable mouth bench plane
> > Lee Valley Veritas Medium shoulder plane
> > Steve Knight coffin smoother (it's on order)
> > Lie-Nielson 4.5 bench plane
> > Lie-Nielson small chisel plane
> >
> > Now I'm considering:
> > The new Lee Valley Veritas bullnose shoulder plane
> > Lie-Nielson skew block plane
> > an edge plane from LN or LV.
> > a joiner from LN, LV, of Knight toolworks.
> > ECE moving fillister
> >
> > Replies from Mr. Lee and Mr. Knight are welcomed but will probably be
> > considered ever so slightly biased.
> >
>
> <snip>
>
> Given what you have now - my biased vot'd be for a skew block...
>
> Wait a sec....we don't have one of those.....
>
> :)
Oh, I exaggerated. We have a good relationship and doing our finances
is not a big problem -- neither of us is carelss with the dollars.
There's rarely any negotiation or embarrassment. Thanks for your
concern!
"Jeff Gorman" <seethesig> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> : Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me, I
> : have permission from SWMBO to purchase another hand plane (she gets an
> : equivalently valued item as part of the deal).
>
> Is is perhaps better to avoid the embarassment of having to seek permission?
>
> Why not negotiate a percentage of monthly income to spend as each other
> pleases?
>
> But perhaps this is too intrusive?
>
> Jeff G
On 15 Sep 2004 10:22:29 -0700, [email protected] (Never Enough
Money) wrote:
>Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me,
So save it, or buy some timber.
The only thing you seem to be missing there is a LV low angle block (I
put more miles on this than any other plane) and a scraper plane (#112
or #80) to take the planer marks off your timber.
--
Smert' spamionam
Can we take this back a step and state what order I should buy quality
planes. I have no desire for anymore machinery. I currently have a
bench type plane and a block plane both swiss made Rali brand. Do
consider them high quality? They work ok, but need new blades
(replaceable). I would like to edge glue better - jointer? Or will a
shorter plane work as well? I just ordered a japanese bench plane
from LV to give it a try. What is next? I really love the wooden
block plane for 69.00 at LV(looks like a primus).
Should I replace what I have, or keep buying new. I do most of my
work on a small japanese bench at floor level and only seem to use
japanese saws and chisels. I am not bias it just seems to work better
for me than standing.
If this post is out of line, I appologize - sorta new, but been
lurking for a few months.
nebraska rod
Thank you both for your replies. I have the same feelings about the
rali. It seems to need adustment after every stroke.
So LV low angle block
what to use for squaring up a board? LV low angle jack?
what to use for edge gluing.
I am not apposed to Knight's wooden planes, or buying used, but I can
only afford a couple of any style (baby steps). I have built a ton of
stuff without planing a thing, but want to move my projects up a
notch.
First order of business is getting a 32" X 13" X 4" of fir good and
square as is is my primary work surface.
Next being able to edge glue boards without gaps or machines. I would
idealy like to hand rip the boards and plane down to width and
thickness by hand.
Last, a good general small plane to clean up and do end grain.
I have been a Popular guy for several years and just moved on to red
and white oak for a few small projects - this is where I noticed the
real need to plane the boards. I stopped sanding about 3 months ago
when I dicovered scrappers - if I never hear that evil random orbital
again it will be too soon. The hand tools make the experience zen
like - much like doing kata in martial arts.
My wife looked at my newly designed asian workbench and just left the
room. She doesn't get the meditative felling I get creating these
small projects.
[email protected] (Rodney) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
planes. I have no desire for anymore machinery. I currently have a
> bench type plane and a block plane both swiss made Rali brand. Do
> consider them high quality?
Dunno about the bench one, but the Rali is probably a
waste of time. Have had one of them for years and I've
wasted more time trying to make it work than actually doing
anything with it. It's OK for pine, I suppose...
> shorter plane work as well? I just ordered a japanese bench plane
> from LV to give it a try.
Given that you work the Japanese way, then more of their
planes would be the best idea. Western style planes
require a standing position to work properly.
With the possible exception of block planes and the HNT Gordon
ones which work best the Japanese way, IMHO.
I particularly like the LN low angle block or the
HNT Gordon block, but there are a lot of people saying good
things about the Lee Valey. Give it a go?
>Now I'm considering:
>The new Lee Valley Veritas bullnose shoulder plane
>Lie-Nielson skew block plane
>an edge plane from LN or LV.
>a joiner from LN, LV, of Knight toolworks.
>ECE moving fillister
>
>Replies from Mr. Lee and Mr. Knight are welcomed but will probably be
>considered ever so slightly biased.
>
(G) looks like you got some pretty good advice a block plane is good choice
and a joiner right now may not be needed.
but I do make moving fillister planes and in a week or two a side rabbet plane
9G)
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
"AArDvarK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:D5p2d.93508$yh.17617@fed1read05...
>
> > Given what you have now - my biased vot'd be for a skew block...
> > Wait a sec....we don't have one of those.....
>
> One question please, what ius the difference between a Robin and a
Leonard?
>
<snip>
About 25 years.... :)
Cheers -
Rob
> Given what you have now - my biased vot'd be for a skew block...
> Wait a sec....we don't have one of those.....
One question please, what ius the difference between a Robin and a Leonard?
I bought the sharpening book, and I am very impressed with the depth of
content, all I need to learn everything from, great book.
Alex
Given what you have now - my biased vot'd be for a skew block...
Wait a sec....we don't have one of those.....
:)
"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me, I
> have permission from SWMBO to purchase another hand plane (she gets an
> equivalently valued item as part of the deal).
>
> I already have the following:
> Lie-Nielson adjustable mouth bench plane
> Lee Valley Veritas Medium shoulder plane
> Steve Knight coffin smoother (it's on order)
> Lie-Nielson 4.5 bench plane
> Lie-Nielson small chisel plane
>
> Now I'm considering:
> The new Lee Valley Veritas bullnose shoulder plane
> Lie-Nielson skew block plane
> an edge plane from LN or LV.
> a joiner from LN, LV, of Knight toolworks.
> ECE moving fillister
>
> Replies from Mr. Lee and Mr. Knight are welcomed but will probably be
> considered ever so slightly biased.
>
<snip>
Given what you have now - my biased vot'd be for a skew block...
Wait a sec....we don't have one of those.....
:)
[email protected] (Never Enough Money) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me, I
> have permission from SWMBO to purchase another hand plane (she gets an
> equivalently valued item as part of the deal).
>
> I already have the following:
> Lie-Nielson adjustable mouth bench plane
> Lee Valley Veritas Medium shoulder plane
> Steve Knight coffin smoother (it's on order)
> Lie-Nielson 4.5 bench plane
> Lie-Nielson small chisel plane
>
<snip>
>
> What say y'all? I'm itching to spend a couple hundred dollars but to
> maximize my investment.
A cool set of chisels?
And how much use do you get from the LN small chisel plane? I bought one,
because I really needed it for one special project, but haven't picked it
up since, except to clean around it.
Patriarch
[email protected] (Never Enough Money) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me, I
> have permission from SWMBO to purchase another hand plane (she gets an
> equivalently valued item as part of the deal).
>
> I already have the following:
> Lie-Nielson adjustable mouth bench plane
> Lee Valley Veritas Medium shoulder plane
> Steve Knight coffin smoother (it's on order)
> Lie-Nielson 4.5 bench plane
> Lie-Nielson small chisel plane
>
> Now I'm considering:
> The new Lee Valley Veritas bullnose shoulder plane
> Lie-Nielson skew block plane
> an edge plane from LN or LV.
> a joiner from LN, LV, of Knight toolworks.
> ECE moving fillister
If you don't already have a good block plane, I'd say getting one
of those should be top priority.
If, on the other hand, you do have a good block plane (and I'm
guessing you mis-typed "bench" for "block" in the first of your
"already haves"), and you say you have a shoulder plane, so you
might consider the L-N 98/99 pair. Surprisingly useful little
dudes for rabbets & dadoes.
The L-N 140 would also be a good choice for adjusting larger
tenons. Also useful if you ever intend to build a boat.
I haven't found too much use for bullnose shoulder planes.
Maybe it's just me, but I've found it simpler to work up to
an edge with a chisel.
John
"Robin Lee" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Given what you have now - my biased vot'd be for a skew block...
>
> Wait a sec....we don't have one of those.....
>
>:)
>
Why not? And any news on the next releases?
BTW, the LA Smoother is superb....
Patriarch,
who hasn't talked himself into the new larger shoulder plane. Yet.
[email protected] (Never Enough Money) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Oh, I use the chisel plane mostly to pick glue out of corners. Also to
> help trim up pieces AFTER they are built. It is not used often but
> neither are my other planes. I only build about two pieces of
> furniture a year.
>
> Just which chisels are you recommending?
>
You had asked recently about the LN set. I bought those recently, and have
been using them on hand cut dovetails (practice, so far) and cleaning up
mortices in an Arts & Crafts-inspired blanket/bench table. (That's been in
process for at least a year.)
The chisels are, as everything else I've ever used from LN, absolutely a
joy to use. The balance and feel are several orders of magnitude above
Marples Blue Chips, which are acceptable for many tasks. I have no basis
for comparision with premium options from other vendors.
If you really want a handplane, one of my favorites is a Stanley #3, from
the early 1920's. Bought it from Patrick Leach early last summer. $90 +
the shipping. Or a Stanley #6 fore, same vendor, unused until I got it,
almost 50 years old. $135 + shipping. These two get used on almost every
project.
Or, as Andy says, treat yourself to some premium timber.
Patriarch
[email protected] (Rodney) wrote in news:5fbfad60.0409161937.65076510
@posting.google.com:
> what to use for squaring up a board? LV low angle jack?
> what to use for edge gluing.
I am not familiar with how a Japanese woodworker would approach that
task, but in western style woodworking one would typically use a
jack plane (#5 size) to remove the major irregularities, followed
by a jointer (#7 or #8) to produce a true, straight edge.
If you have the funds, an L-N #7 or #8 would be ideal for preparing
a board to edge glue - but those cost the better part of $500. For
a more modestly priced alternative, I'd look to an older Stanley.
(as an aside, I have a low angle jack, the L-N version, but I'm
not particularly fond of it. When I use it it's used as a big
smoother. Other folk, obviously, love their low-angle jacks, so
the point I'm making is that it's a plane that suits different
people differently...much like wooden planes suit some folk more
than others).
John
Rodney wrote:
> Can we take this back a step and state what order I should buy quality
> planes. I have no desire for anymore machinery. I currently have a
> bench type plane and a block plane both swiss made Rali brand. Do
> consider them high quality? They work ok, but need new blades
> (replaceable). I would like to edge glue better - jointer? Or will a
> shorter plane work as well? I just ordered a japanese bench plane
> from LV to give it a try. What is next? I really love the wooden
> block plane for 69.00 at LV(looks like a primus).
>
> Should I replace what I have, or keep buying new. I do most of my
> work on a small japanese bench at floor level and only seem to use
> japanese saws and chisels. I am not bias it just seems to work better
> for me than standing.
IMHO, you will want to replace the Rali planes if you plan to do any
extensive planing. If you are doing edge-joining of anything longer
than a couple of feet, you'll want a jointer plane like an old Stanley
#7. (I do most of my edge-jointing with an old Stanley #6 (foreplane),
but that's because it was the first longer plane I owned, and I just got
used to working with it.)
If you plan to surface wood by hand, the longer plane will also come
in handy for flattening boards. Then you'll want a smoother for getting
the surface ready for finishing. (I really like the LV low-angle
smoother, but some folks report having problems with low-angle planes on
tricky grain.)
Also, if you do a lot of handjoinery, there are several planes that
will come in handy, such as a rabbet plane (Stanley #78), shoulder plane
(check out the new LV offerings here), plough plane (for cutting
grooves; my personal favorite is the Record 044), etc.
Finally, you mentioned the wooden block plane. Given that it costs
almost $70, I would recommend that you spend a bit more and buy the LV
low-angle block. It has an adjustable mouth, tremendous mass, thick
iron, very precise adjustment mechanism (based on the Norris style
adjuster), side set-screws for ease of adjustment after removing the
iron for sharpening, and a body that's well-designed from an ergonomic
standpoint. It's become my favorite block plane, and I have ... er ...
"a few" to choose from, among them, a crispy old Stanley #60-1/2 and #65.
Obviously, YMMV, as a lot of it comes down to personal preferences.
In fact, given your fondness for Japanese methods, there's a whole
world of Japanese planes that might be worth exploring.
But I'll leave that to folks who know more about it than I do.
Chuck Vance
Never Enough Money wrote:
> Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me, I
> have permission from SWMBO to purchase another hand plane (she gets an
> equivalently valued item as part of the deal).
>
> I already have the following:
> Lie-Nielson adjustable mouth bench plane
> Lee Valley Veritas Medium shoulder plane
> Steve Knight coffin smoother (it's on order)
> Lie-Nielson 4.5 bench plane
> Lie-Nielson small chisel plane
>
> Now I'm considering:
> The new Lee Valley Veritas bullnose shoulder plane
> Lie-Nielson skew block plane
> an edge plane from LN or LV.
> a joiner from LN, LV, of Knight toolworks.
> ECE moving fillister
>
> Replies from Mr. Lee and Mr. Knight are welcomed but will probably be
> considered ever so slightly biased.
>
> Given that I'm doing a lot of tenon and mortises, rabbits, and dados,
> I suspect the joiner planes are a lower priority. Besides I have a
> electric 6" joiner. My router, joiner, planer, and table saw gets me
> most of the way, I just clean up afterward with handtools..... The
> woods I use are maple, lyptus, and occassionally zebrawood and white
> oak. Have not tried other woods (yet). I use a lot of the birch veneer
> plywood (the good stuff with 14 layers) for panels.
You've gotten lots of good advice, but I can resist.
Bullnose shoulder plane -- given that you already have a chisel
plane, I don't think this is the way I'd go. The only times I ever use
the bullnose feature is getting up close to joints for glue removal or
other things that could be done easily with a plain old chisel. Since
you already have the medium shoulder plane, I see no need for adding
this one.
L-N skew block -- I've got that plane, and there are times when it
is just the ticket. However, there are also long periods of time when
it sits un-used. I'd say it depends on what you anticipated using it
for. It's handy for cleaning up cheeks of tenons, but a chisel does
that just about as well. It's nice for raising panels, but there are
other ways to do that as well. So how did you anticipate using it?
Edge planes -- I don't own any of these, so I can't help here. I do
own a Stanley side-rabbet, and I use that about once a year.
A jointer -- I get by just fine with old Stanleys for this. But, if
you have your heart set on buying a new plane, I'd recommend the LV.
Every time I've compared a plane of theirs side-by-side with a L-N, the
LV has come out the winner in price vs. performance. I don't know about
Steve's jointers, but just looking at them, I'd say that I wouldn't do
too well with them. I like a jointer to have a tote and front knob.
Maybe it's just me, but for edge-joining, I don't do well with a wooden
plane with only a tote.
The ECE moving fillister -- I haven't used that plane either, but I
see no reason why you couldn't get by with an old Stanley #78 (duplex
rabbet plane). If you need to cut grooves, a plane like the Record #044
will work just fine.
I realize I haven't been a lot of help. Personally, if I had to
choose from the planes you've mentioned, I'd probably go with the skew
block plane. But don't expect it to replace a regular low-angle plane,
and beware that you will encounter situations where it will tear-out
horribly.
Chuck Vance
> Do you have a bench plane ?
> My "toolbag box" of planes is a #4, a #5 and a block. Can't really
> imagine working without all three. The #5 is the default plane of
> choice for carpentry, not the #4. #4's are too short to do a really
> good job here and they're not even very good smoothers. I think we
> only have them because they grow on trees and breed under dusty
> benches.
> If you're shopping, LV look like the best bet, or get an old eBay
> clunker and tune it.
You forgot to mention one thing as a requirement...
Alex
On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 08:11:17 +0100, "Jeff Gorman" <seethesig> calmly
ranted:
>
>"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>: Although there is "never enough money" for a tool collector like me, I
>: have permission from SWMBO to purchase another hand plane (she gets an
>: equivalently valued item as part of the deal).
>
>Is is perhaps better to avoid the embarassment of having to seek permission?
>
>Why not negotiate a percentage of monthly income to spend as each other
>pleases?
>
>But perhaps this is too intrusive?
You've just suggested using logic in dealing with:
A) Women
B) Tool collections/collectors.
Would you like to restate that one, Jeff? <wink>
---
Is it time for your medication or mine?
http://diversify.com Custom Website Applications
On 15 Sep 2004 19:08:56 -0700, [email protected] (Never Enough
Money) wrote:
>Yes I did mistype -- should have been "Lie-Nielson adjustable mouth bench plane".
Do you have a bench plane ?
My "toolbag box" of planes is a #4, a #5 and a block. Can't really
imagine working without all three. The #5 is the default plane of
choice for carpentry, not the #4. #4's are too short to do a really
good job here and they're not even very good smoothers. I think we
only have them because they grow on trees and breed under dusty
benches.
If you're shopping, LV look like the best bet, or get an old eBay
clunker and tune it.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 09:25:24 -0400, "Robin Lee" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>
>"AArDvarK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:D5p2d.93508$yh.17617@fed1read05...
>>
>> > Given what you have now - my biased vot'd be for a skew block...
>> > Wait a sec....we don't have one of those.....
>>
>> One question please, what ius the difference between a Robin and a
>Leonard?
>>
>
><snip>
>
>About 25 years.... :)
One's Batman's sidekick and the other Spock?
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* Michelangelo would have made ** Website Programming
* better time with a roller. ** http://diversify.com
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> If you plan to surface wood by hand, the longer plane will also come
> in handy for flattening boards. Then you'll want a smoother for getting
> the surface ready for finishing. (I really like the LV low-angle
> smoother, but some folks report having problems with low-angle planes on
> tricky grain.)
I read at Steve Knight's site that a plane for figured and highly figured
woods has a blade set at 50º - 55º, far different than a low angle, higher
angle the standard 45º. I think I have seen japanese planes with blades
set at 60º somewhere online. And with that, the laminated blade is the
way to go for strength and cutting out chatter, me -inexperienced so far.
Alex