Help resawing 5bf in Cleveland, OH

Sam(if that REALLY IS your real name, he,he)

Although I live not far from you, your best bet is to hook up with a
good cabinet shop. There's gotta be one in the book. They'd probably
do it for next to nothing. Sounds to me like you're making some
veneer for panels or the like. You could have the shop surface plane
or belt sand them too.

A word about bandsaws. I picked up an older 12" Craftsman bandsaw at
a garage sale for $50. After checking out a bandsaw book at the
library, $8 for a new blade, and making a resaw fence out of MDF, I
could easily resaw 6" of KD walnut. In other words, you don't need a
Laguna to enjoy and learn using the bandsaw. And believe me, resawing
is magic.

My $.02 less capital gains $.004, the REAL Sam Schmenk

Resaw it with your table saw.

"Sam Shank" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't have a bandsaw (not that I don't want one...) and will need to
> resaw some quilted maple into thinner boards (like 1/4") for a bed I'm
> making. The maple will be about 5-6" wide. Not sure about length or
> thickness yet.
>
> If you live in the greater Cleveland area (I'm in North Royalton), have
> some experience with $20/bf wood, and would like to help me out please
> drop me a line.
>
> Sorry for the jumbled up email address. I hate spam...
>
> sls16
> -----
> at
> -----
> cwru.
> -----
> edu
>
>
> Sam
>
> --
> please remove @com.com and change att and dott to @ and .
>
> Thanks, Sam (trying to minimize spam)

Sam Shank <[email protected]> wrote in news:sls16attcwrudottedu-
[email protected]:

>
>> Resaw it with your table saw.
>
> That would be a PITA, and cost me another $100 for more wood. Even the
> thinnest kerf on my saw would be just under 1/8 of an inch. Seems like a
> waste to me, esp. when it costs so much for the wood in the first place.
>
> > I don't have a bandsaw (not that I don't want one...) and will need to
>> > resaw some quilted maple into thinner boards (like 1/4") for a bed I'm
>> > making. The maple will be about 5-6" wide. Not sure about length or
>> > thickness yet.
>

Actually, Leon is right on with this suggestion, for a couple of reasons.

With the table saw, you are likely to be able to get minimal loss from the
blade wandering, bowing, tracking or leaving ridges in the board. Every
piece I've ever resawn on the bandsaw (admittedly not hundreds of board
feet, but...) has to take several passes though the surface planer to even
things up. And the bandsaw blade isn't zero kerf. (I forgot who
trademarked that term recently. Sorry.)

Those done on the table saw were far closer to flat and straight, right off
of the saw.

Find a good, sharp, (in this case Thin Kerf) rip blade, and practice on
some soft maple or poplar, to see what you can do with it. You might be
pleasantly surprised. If not, you've spent very little.

Even if you want to resaw a wider board than 2* the maximum depth of cut on
yout TS, cutting from both sides with the TS makes a good start to
finishing the resaw with a human-powered saw.

Patriarch

Actually it goes quite well and fast on a TS on pieces up to 6" wide. If
expense is a factor, buying 3/4" and or 4/4 stock is going to probably be
cheaper than buying thicker material and even a band saw is not going to
yield more than 2 pieces 1/4" thick from a 3/4" thick board. That said, you
are probably only going to only loose another 1/16" of wood with each pass
of the TS vs. a BS.


"Sam Shank" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> > Resaw it with your table saw.
>
> That would be a PITA, and cost me another $100 for more wood. Even the
> thinnest kerf on my saw would be just under 1/8 of an inch. Seems like a
> waste to me, esp. when it costs so much for the wood in the first place.
>
> > I don't have a bandsaw (not that I don't want one...) and will need to
> > > resaw some quilted maple into thinner boards (like 1/4") for a bed I'm
> > > making. The maple will be about 5-6" wide. Not sure about length or
> > > thickness yet.
>
> --
> please remove @com.com and change att and dott to @ and .
>
> Thanks, Sam (trying to minimize spam)

Sam Shank <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
> If you live in the greater Cleveland area (I'm in North Royalton), have
> some experience with $20/bf wood, and would like to help me out please
> drop me a line.
>

I suggest you check out the Doll lumber company about 40 miles east of
you on 534, South of 422 and North of 82.

I don't think I've seen quilted maple there, but the curly maple
was $3.50/bf the last time I bought some.

--

FF

> Resaw it with your table saw.

That would be a PITA, and cost me another $100 for more wood. Even the
thinnest kerf on my saw would be just under 1/8 of an inch. Seems like a
waste to me, esp. when it costs so much for the wood in the first place.

> I don't have a bandsaw (not that I don't want one...) and will need to
> > resaw some quilted maple into thinner boards (like 1/4") for a bed I'm
> > making. The maple will be about 5-6" wide. Not sure about length or
> > thickness yet.

--
please remove @com.com and change att and dott to @ and .

Thanks, Sam (trying to minimize spam)

In article <[email protected]>,
patriarch <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>With the table saw, you are likely to be able to get minimal loss from the
>blade wandering, bowing, tracking or leaving ridges in the board. Every
>piece I've ever resawn on the bandsaw (admittedly not hundreds of board
>feet, but...) has to take several passes though the surface planer to even
>things up.

Your bandsaw is in serious need of a tuneup.

--
Scott Post [email protected] http://home.insightbb.com/~sepost/