WATCO Teak oil

On Sat, 10 Apr 2004 04:28:27 GMT, "Lynn Coffelt"
<[email protected]> wrote:

> Usually use this stuff on some outdoor teak furniture each spring. This
>year I was shocked at the price. About 14 bucks for a quart can.
> It smells and cures just like boiled linseed oil, but obviously has a
>little thinner and some other waxlike sediment stuff that requires vigorous
>shaking before use.
> What exactly is this stuff, anyway? What makes a good, home-mixed oil
>finish for things like this?
>(sorry if this has been covered too many times, but I just don't remember or
>know how to look it up)
>Thanks in advance,
>Lynn
>
>



prolly, what... 60 or 70% linseed, 10 or 20% varnish and balanced with
thinner or turps. tint to your heart's content with artist's oils.

Starting formula is 1/3 each varnish, mineral spirits, curing oil of your
choice (boiled linseed or tung).

You can vary it as you see fit.

--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Lynn Coffelt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:KJKdc.3110$rg5.29225@attbi_s52...
> Usually use this stuff on some outdoor teak furniture each spring.
This
> year I was shocked at the price. About 14 bucks for a quart can.
> It smells and cures just like boiled linseed oil, but obviously has a
> little thinner and some other waxlike sediment stuff that requires
vigorous
> shaking before use.
> What exactly is this stuff, anyway? What makes a good, home-mixed oil
> finish for things like this?
> (sorry if this has been covered too many times, but I just don't remember
or
> know how to look it up)
> Thanks in advance,
> Lynn
>
>
>

If one goes by the general accepted meaning of the word varnish, a resin,
curing oil, thinner/carrier mix poly is a varnish.

It's usually separated from the family because the level of the resins it
uses forms a more damage resistant bond then the low octane stuff.

For all intents and purposes poly is applied and treated just like any other
varnish.

Spar/marine varnish is what is called a long oil varnish. The formula used
to make it calls for a larger percentage of curing oil to make the varnish
more flexible and better able to accommodate the wider range of movment of
wood exposed to the outdoor environment.



--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Lynn Coffelt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:tM3ec.8526$_K3.47898@attbi_s53...
> Thanks for the responses. I am guessing that when one talks of "varnish"
as
> an ingredient, it is an old fashioned oil base varnish, or spar varnish,
but
> not poly, is that right?
> Lynn (slow but steady)
>

Thanks for the responses. I am guessing that when one talks of "varnish" as
an ingredient, it is an old fashioned oil base varnish, or spar varnish, but
not poly, is that right?
Lynn (slow but steady)

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 10 Apr 2004 04:28:27 GMT, "Lynn Coffelt"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Usually use this stuff on some outdoor teak furniture each spring.
This
> >year I was shocked at the price. About 14 bucks for a quart can.
> > It smells and cures just like boiled linseed oil, but obviously has
a
> >little thinner and some other waxlike sediment stuff that requires
vigorous
> >shaking before use.
> > What exactly is this stuff, anyway? What makes a good, home-mixed
oil
> >finish for things like this?
> >(sorry if this has been covered too many times, but I just don't remember
or
> >know how to look it up)
> >Thanks in advance,
> >Lynn
> >
> >
>
>
>
> prolly, what... 60 or 70% linseed, 10 or 20% varnish and balanced with
> thinner or turps. tint to your heart's content with artist's oils.