I have made an "oops" with my shelf standards dadoes - they are not quite
wide enough to hold the 5/8" standards in them flush. There are 4 of them
in an entertainment center I'm building. The carcase is already constructed
and has the face frame on it, so I can't go back in with a router and
enlarge them. They are close, but not enough for the standards to fit in
there flush. The sides of the carcase are oak faced ply.
Any ideas for a fix? The only thing I can think of is going in there with a
utility knife and carefully slice away the side of the dado by 1/16" or so,
but I'm afraid of an errant slip of my hand and a huge scratch across the
side....hmmmm.
TIA
Duke
P.S. Yes, I know now to have the hardware in hand prior to
construction...lesson learned.
Take a portable belt sander and set it on edge. Rig up a
table in front of the belt. This is an edge sander.
Take the standard and run it against the belt. This will
narrow down the standard.
Rinse and repeat until the pieces are the correct width.
Turn the abraded edge (where the metal finish has been
removed) of the standard towards the back of the cabinet so
others won't see your boo-boo.
Install in cabinet and stand back to admire.
You could also take a piece of wood, run a kerf down the
length and drop the standard into that to use as a holding
fixture. With this you could use a hard block wrapped in
sand paper (fast), a random orbital (faster) or the belt
sander (fastest).
You could also try the above with the standard in a vise and
using a file but it might take a wee bit more time.
Some standards are aluminum and can be ripped with a saw
blade but I'd be puckering the sphincter on this/that
method, i.e., don't be doing this unless you've had some
experience with cutting narrow metal strips.
UA100
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sandpaper on wrapped around a paint stick? It'll float and not create a
> wavey contour. Keep it straight up and down and take your time, and you
> should end up with a nice edge, widened up to what you need, in a pretty
> short time. I'd probably use something around a 120-150 grit to get that
> much cut down quickly. Make sure you make each pass run the entire length
> of the dado so that you keep your dado straight. Touch up the corners
with
> your utility knife which you should be able to do without the worry of a
> slip as you mentioned. Sand a bit - check the fit. Sand a bit - check
the
> fit. You know the routine.
Good idea, i'll give it a try. Probably will take a while to do this way as
the unit has standards almost 6' long x 4. But, I guess I can shut the
heaters off inside the shop for the duration. ;-)
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm not sure your question is very clear.
>
> Some of the responses are interpreting it as meaning the width of the dado
> is too narrow for you to even fit the standard into it. I wouldn't use
the
> word "flush" to describe this.
>
> Others are thinking that the dado isn't deep enough, leaving a small
amount
> of the standard sticking out from the surface.
>
> So which is it? If you can't fit the standard in at all, then you
obviously
> have to do something about it. If it simply is that the standard is proud
of
> the surface, then one of the responses for trimming the shelf width
slightly
> to accomodate makes the most sense.
Sorry for any confusion. It's the former. The dado is too narrow. I'd
quickly add that I described them as not fitting flush because I can get the
standards into the dado (tightly), but not far enough to make them flush
with the carcase sides.
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 11:32:11 -0600, "Dukester"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I'm not sure your question is very clear.
>>
>> Some of the responses are interpreting it as meaning the width of the dado
>> is too narrow for you to even fit the standard into it. I wouldn't use
>the
>> word "flush" to describe this.
>>
>> Others are thinking that the dado isn't deep enough, leaving a small
>amount
>> of the standard sticking out from the surface.
>>
>> So which is it? If you can't fit the standard in at all, then you
>obviously
>> have to do something about it. If it simply is that the standard is proud
>of
>> the surface, then one of the responses for trimming the shelf width
>slightly
>> to accomodate makes the most sense.
>
>Sorry for any confusion. It's the former. The dado is too narrow. I'd
>quickly add that I described them as not fitting flush because I can get the
>standards into the dado (tightly), but not far enough to make them flush
>with the carcase sides.
I know it's not the most glamorous solution, but could you just lay a
piece of scrap over the brass, and then hammer the sucker into place?
Brass is pretty soft, it should bend a little and fit right in.
Standard cautions apply, of course- before trying it on the finished
product, test it out in a piece of scrap and make sure the standard
will still accept the shelf inserts. Seems like the easiest way to go
to me...
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
Mike in Mystic wrote:
> So which is it? If you can't fit the standard in at all, then you
> obviously have to do something about it. If it simply is that the standard
> is proud of the surface, then one of the responses for trimming the shelf
> width slightly to accomodate makes the most sense.
I'm still scratching my head trying to figure out what a "shelf standard"
is. Unless it's a track for some kind of movable shelf system or
something.
???
I R ignerint.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
"Battleax" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > Would a router plane work on this?
> >
> > Not sure. Do they work well on plywood?>
> >
> >
>
> Run your shelves through the tablesaw with the blade the same height as the
> dato depth.
> Trim 1/16 or so from the thickness. This means standing the shelf on end on
> the table saw.
Why not cut a very shallow rabbit on the end of the shelf with a
router? That way you don't have to stand it on end.
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm not sure your question is very clear.
>
> Some of the responses are interpreting it as meaning the width of the dado
> is too narrow for you to even fit the standard into it. I wouldn't use
the
> word "flush" to describe this.
>
> Others are thinking that the dado isn't deep enough, leaving a small
amount
> of the standard sticking out from the surface.
>
> So which is it? If you can't fit the standard in at all, then you
obviously
> have to do something about it. If it simply is that the standard is proud
of
> the surface, then one of the responses for trimming the shelf width
slightly
> to accomodate makes the most sense.
>
> Mike
I didn't know what he ment by "standards", now I do.
If the standards remain 1/16 or so out from the surface I'd just go with it.
Dukester wrote:
> I have made an "oops" with my shelf standards dadoes - they are not quite
> wide enough to hold the 5/8" standards in them flush. There are 4 of them
> in an entertainment center I'm building. The carcase is already constructed
> and has the face frame on it, so I can't go back in with a router and
> enlarge them. They are close, but not enough for the standards to fit in
> there flush. The sides of the carcase are oak faced ply.
>
> Any ideas for a fix? The only thing I can think of is going in there with a
> utility knife and carefully slice away the side of the dado by 1/16" or so,
> but I'm afraid of an errant slip of my hand and a huge scratch across the
> side....hmmmm.
>
> TIA
> Duke
>
> P.S. Yes, I know now to have the hardware in hand prior to
> construction...lesson learned.
>
>
Well, now that I finally know what a standard is--the metal strip that
hold tabs to hold the shelve--here is my suggestion. If you can't get
a regular router in there, then get a trim router. I think Harbor
Freight often has one on sale for $20. They are small and should fit
in the case. Just use a wooden guide to take a bit off one side of
the dado. Might be a little slow but a heckofalot faster than sanding.
I'm not sure your question is very clear.
Some of the responses are interpreting it as meaning the width of the dado
is too narrow for you to even fit the standard into it. I wouldn't use the
word "flush" to describe this.
Others are thinking that the dado isn't deep enough, leaving a small amount
of the standard sticking out from the surface.
So which is it? If you can't fit the standard in at all, then you obviously
have to do something about it. If it simply is that the standard is proud of
the surface, then one of the responses for trimming the shelf width slightly
to accomodate makes the most sense.
Mike
"Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have made an "oops" with my shelf standards dadoes - they are not quite
> wide enough to hold the 5/8" standards in them flush. There are 4 of them
> in an entertainment center I'm building. The carcase is already
constructed
> and has the face frame on it, so I can't go back in with a router and
> enlarge them. They are close, but not enough for the standards to fit in
> there flush. The sides of the carcase are oak faced ply.
>
> Any ideas for a fix? The only thing I can think of is going in there with
a
> utility knife and carefully slice away the side of the dado by 1/16" or
so,
> but I'm afraid of an errant slip of my hand and a huge scratch across the
> side....hmmmm.
>
> TIA
> Duke
>
> P.S. Yes, I know now to have the hardware in hand prior to
> construction...lesson learned.
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
Dukester <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have made an "oops" with my shelf standards dadoes - they are not quite
>wide enough to hold the 5/8" standards in them flush. There are 4 of them
>in an entertainment center I'm building. The carcase is already constructed
>and has the face frame on it, so I can't go back in with a router and
>enlarge them. They are close, but not enough for the standards to fit in
>there flush. The sides of the carcase are oak faced ply.
>
>Any ideas for a fix? The only thing I can think of is going in there with a
>utility knife and carefully slice away the side of the dado by 1/16" or so,
>but I'm afraid of an errant slip of my hand and a huge scratch across the
>side....hmmmm.
>
>TIA
>Duke
>
>P.S. Yes, I know now to have the hardware in hand prior to
>construction...lesson learned.
>
>
Of course, I've never done this myself... Just heard about someone
else doing it... But, if you only need 1/16" or so, stand the track
stock up on a lone edge and carefully hammer it, bowing it slightly,
to bring the width down so it will fit in the track. Again, never done
it myself, just heard that it can work sometimes.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
How about rabbet just a tiny bit off the ends of the shelfs to make
then fit into the undersized dado's
John
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 07:50:02 -0600, "Dukester"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have made an "oops" with my shelf standards dadoes - they are not quite
>wide enough to hold the 5/8" standards in them flush. There are 4 of them
>in an entertainment center I'm building. The carcase is already constructed
>and has the face frame on it, so I can't go back in with a router and
>enlarge them. They are close, but not enough for the standards to fit in
>there flush. The sides of the carcase are oak faced ply.
>
>Any ideas for a fix? The only thing I can think of is going in there with a
>utility knife and carefully slice away the side of the dado by 1/16" or so,
>but I'm afraid of an errant slip of my hand and a huge scratch across the
>side....hmmmm.
>
>TIA
>Duke
>
>P.S. Yes, I know now to have the hardware in hand prior to
>construction...lesson learned.
>
"Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have made an "oops" with my shelf standards dadoes - they are not quite
> wide enough to hold the 5/8" standards in them flush. There are 4 of them
> in an entertainment center I'm building. The carcase is already
constructed
> and has the face frame on it, so I can't go back in with a router and
> enlarge them. They are close, but not enough for the standards to fit in
> there flush. The sides of the carcase are oak faced ply.
Sandpaper on wrapped around a paint stick? It'll float and not create a
wavey contour. Keep it straight up and down and take your time, and you
should end up with a nice edge, widened up to what you need, in a pretty
short time. I'd probably use something around a 120-150 grit to get that
much cut down quickly. Make sure you make each pass run the entire length
of the dado so that you keep your dado straight. Touch up the corners with
your utility knife which you should be able to do without the worry of a
slip as you mentioned. Sand a bit - check the fit. Sand a bit - check the
fit. You know the routine.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>,
"Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have made an "oops" with my shelf standards dadoes - they are not quite
> wide enough to hold the 5/8" standards in them flush. There are 4 of them
> in an entertainment center I'm building. The carcase is already constructed
> and has the face frame on it, so I can't go back in with a router and
> enlarge them. They are close, but not enough for the standards to fit in
> there flush. The sides of the carcase are oak faced ply.
>
> Any ideas for a fix? The only thing I can think of is going in there with a
> utility knife and carefully slice away the side of the dado by 1/16" or so,
> but I'm afraid of an errant slip of my hand and a huge scratch across the
> side....hmmmm.
Would a router plane work on this?
--
Hank Gillette
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 11:32:11 -0600, "Dukester"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I'm not sure your question is very clear.
>>
>> Some of the responses are interpreting it as meaning the width of the dado
>> is too narrow for you to even fit the standard into it. I wouldn't use
>the
>> word "flush" to describe this.
>>
>> Others are thinking that the dado isn't deep enough, leaving a small
>amount
>> of the standard sticking out from the surface.
>>
>> So which is it? If you can't fit the standard in at all, then you
>obviously
>> have to do something about it. If it simply is that the standard is proud
>of
>> the surface, then one of the responses for trimming the shelf width
>slightly
>> to accomodate makes the most sense.
>
>Sorry for any confusion. It's the former. The dado is too narrow. I'd
>quickly add that I described them as not fitting flush because I can get the
>standards into the dado (tightly), but not far enough to make them flush
>with the carcase sides.
>
i have to admit, I had this same problem, however it wasn't on
something that I built..
I notched the shelves to fit the supports... called it my "self
locking shelf system to prevent shelf sliding"...
It actually works really well, drop each end of the shelf in and snug
the notch.. good tight fit
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 07:50:02 -0600, "Dukester"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have made an "oops" with my shelf standards dadoes - they are not quite
>wide enough to hold the 5/8" standards in them flush. There are 4 of them
>in an entertainment center I'm building. The carcase is already constructed
>and has the face frame on it, so I can't go back in with a router and
>enlarge them. They are close, but not enough for the standards to fit in
>there flush. The sides of the carcase are oak faced ply.
>
>Any ideas for a fix? The only thing I can think of is going in there with a
>utility knife and carefully slice away the side of the dado by 1/16" or so,
>but I'm afraid of an errant slip of my hand and a huge scratch across the
>side....hmmmm.
>
>TIA
>Duke
>
>P.S. Yes, I know now to have the hardware in hand prior to
>construction...lesson learned.
>
dremel with the small drum sander..
been there, done that..
"Battleax" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > Would a router plane work on this?
> >
> > Not sure. Do they work well on plywood?>
> >
> >
>
> Run your shelves through the tablesaw with the blade the same height as
the
> dato depth.
> Trim 1/16 or so from the thickness. This means standing the shelf on end
on
> the table saw.
>
>
D'Oh! Yeah man. Could even do it on his router table.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Would a router plane work on this?
>
> Not sure. Do they work well on plywood?>
>
>
Run your shelves through the tablesaw with the blade the same height as the
dato depth.
Trim 1/16 or so from the thickness. This means standing the shelf on end on
the table saw.