I've been out piling up the sawdust under my saw, and just wanted to share
a few things I learned.
Blade changes on a good saw aren't as much as a hassle as they are a cheap
one. One wrench locks the shaft, the other the nut and with a few turns
the blade is ready to come off. I wouldn't mind putting an 80t blade on
the saw for cross cuts, even if it is just pine.
Belt tension is an important thing. I had the tension too loose and got
poor performance with the blade low to the table. After adjusting the
tension, the saw ran better and made much smoother cuts through the wood.
2x4s can be resawn in to 1x4s on the table saw, but it's not a quick task.
I took 5 passes through each 2x4 to separate them. When it's time to
separate the two pieces, the blade should protrude quite a ways (around
5/8"-1") beyond the point of seperation to make sure there's not a little
nub holding the two pieces together.
Oh, and don't face west when you're working outside in the evening...
Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Puckdropper wrote:
> ...
>> Well, it's probably somewhere around (3, 15] minutes to change the
>> blade. It's a long weaving walk (too much junk) to the back of the
>> garage where the tools are stored.
>
> What tool(s) required other than the arbor nut wrench? One of them
> comes w/ the saw and (should, anyway) hang either close by or even on
> the saw itself.
>
> Takes at most a couple minutes I'd guess...
>
> ...
Screwdriver to remove the insert plate screw. Arbor nut wrench and
second wrench to hold the arbor.
The act of removing the blade nut, blade, and installing the new blade
and reinstalling the nut took about a minute and a half. Messing with
the insert plate adds another two. Tool and blade acquisition probably
took on the order of 5 minutes since the blade was in the house and the
tools were in the garage.
There ya go, 8 1/2 minutes from task start to task end. I could probably
do it faster, but the goal was to change the blade and not set speed
records.
Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:hGzAk.447$1a2.372
@trnddc04:
> "Puckdropper" wrote:
>
>> > It's a long weaving walk (too much junk) to the back of the garage
>> > where
>> the tools are stored.
>
> A little project for you.
>
> A table saw and a router req'd
>
> Blank out 6 pcs, 12x12x3/8 nominal from a 2x4x3/8 plywood.
>
> Using router, thru cut a 10-1/2 dia in 3 pcs.
>
> Glue these pieces to uncut pieces to form 3 assemblies.
>
> When dry, final cut to 11-1/2 square, then knock off corners @ 45,
>
> Drill hanging hole in one corner, and thru hole in center for
> 1/4-20x3/4 flat head bolt, fender washer and wing nut.
>
> Apply some shellac,
>
> You now have 10" saw blade protectors that can be manhandled and still
> protect blade.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
>
I've been storing the old blades (and a few new ones) on the wall. It's
functional art. :-)
I do like the idea of the saw blade protectors though. They're stackable
as well as hangable. :-) (One of my biggest regrets on a transport
container was not to make the drawers stackable outside of the box.)
Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Puckdropper wrote:
> ...
>> 2x4s can be resawn in to 1x4s on the table saw, but it's not a quick
>> task. I took 5 passes through each 2x4 to separate them.
>
> Why is that? 8" or smaller blade or simply too under-powered a saw of
> jut conservative approach?
It was just a very conservative approach. I've never done anything close
to resawing before, so I figured I'd take small steps in case anything
went wrong. I also had the belt tension wrong, so the blade would slip
if I took too big of bite. (Fixed that, but didn't change the method.)
Even so, it's still a slow process. Check for straight, saw,
sand/joint/plane, edge...
> Can't imagine why it would ever take more than 2, one from each side.
>
> What were you using for a blade--for that kind of work a
> decent-quality rip blade would be well worth the expense. The
> quality/sharpness/suitability-to-task of the blade is even more
> important when there's little or no spare power to make up for the
> blade's shortcomings.
40T Irwin Marathon blade (new).
> Alignment being dead-on would undoubtedly help as well if it isn't
> quite...
Alignment's pretty good. On most pieces the cuts were smooth all the way
across.
Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "Puckdropper" wrote:
>>
>>
>>> 40T Irwin Marathon blade (new).
>>
>> Switch to a 24T for rips.
> ..
> And make sure it's a rip grind not combination...
>
> --
I'll give that a try some time. Most my cuts are rips (or plywood), but
since changing the blade on the saw is a 10 minute task instead of an hour,
using a specific blade is something I'd want to do!
Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> OP was resawing 2x4 material so it would qualify easily.
>
> It seems hard to imagine that 10 minute estimate for changing a blade
> wouldn't be about 8-1/2 minutes long, but maybe he's got some really
> crappy contractor saw w/ no clearance or something, I don't know...
>
> --
Well, it's probably somewhere around (3, 15] minutes to change the blade.
It's a long weaving walk (too much junk) to the back of the garage where
the tools are stored.
Annoucing the rec.woodworking blade changing contest! How fast can you
safely change the blade on your table saw? Simply time yourself changing
the blade and post the results here. One test cut is required, as well as
starting with the new blade and tools OFF the saw when time starts.
Have fun ;-)
Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
On 18 Sep 2008 20:11:32 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>...
>Annoucing the rec.woodworking blade changing contest! How fast can you
>safely change the blade on your table saw? Simply time yourself changing
>the blade and post the results here. One test cut is required, as well as
>starting with the new blade and tools OFF the saw when time starts.
...
Suggested modification to the rule:
Start the clock when you turn the saw off after finishing a cut. Stop
the clock when you start the saw to begin a cut with the new blade.
That would be the amount of time added to change to a new blade
instead of simply going on to the next cut with the same blade.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
On Wed, 17 Sep 2008 12:37:07 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>However I wouldn't ever do that to a 2x4.
Agree. It's a rare construction grade 2x4 that doesn't have more cup,
warp, twist, or bow than I want to tackle resawing with a table saw.
And, IME, after jointing and planing, it usually doesn't have enough
thickness left to be worth resawing.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> dpb wrote:
>> OP was resawing 2x4 material so it would qualify easily.
>>
>> It seems hard to imagine that 10 minute estimate for changing a blade
>> wouldn't be about 8-1/2 minutes long, but maybe he's got some really
>> crappy contractor saw w/ no clearance or something, I don't know...
>
> 10 minutes _is_ a looooong blade change...
Beers break man! Sheese...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Sep 17, 7:07 pm, Tom Veatch wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Sep 2008 12:37:07 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
> >However I wouldn't ever do that to a 2x4.
>
> Agree. It's a rare construction grade 2x4 that doesn't have more cup,
> warp, twist, or bow than I want to tackle resawing with a table saw.
> And, IME, after jointing and planing, it usually doesn't have enough
> thickness left to be worth resawing.
>
> Tom Veatch
> Wichita, KS
> USA
Where I am, (upstate NY) the quality of 2x4 has a pretty big range...
sometimes garbage, sometimes ok, and once in a while excellent... The
last time I bought a few at Lowes, the select was way better than the
premium, and cheaper by about $1.26. I've also bought 2x6 and 2x8 for
resawing - its good value.
I have a cheap table saw with a good blade, and it's handy to be able
to mill down a 2x4,6,8 for a variety of projects:
1. 1x .5 stops for installing windows.
2. making furring (ferring) strips (spel chkr brkn)
3. a whole other bunch of various stuff
shelly
On Sep 17, 2:51 pm, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
> Puckdropper wrote:
>
> ...
>
> > 2x4s can be resawn in to 1x4s on the table saw, but it's not a quick task.
> > I took 5 passes through each 2x4 to separate them.
>
> Why is that? 8" or smaller blade or simply too under-powered a saw of
> jut conservative approach?
>
> Can't imagine why it would ever take more than 2, one from each side.
>
> What were you using for a blade--for that kind of work a decent-quality
> rip blade would be well worth the expense.
Ditto. Get yourself a Freud 24T thin kerf and be amazed at what your
underpowered saw can do. Not that expensive either.
However I wouldn't ever do that to a 2x4. Assuming I could find one
straight enough to start with god only knows what it's going to do
when it's resawn. If I really really had to, that is what the band
saw is for.
In article <[email protected]>, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> OP was resawing 2x4 material so it would qualify easily.
>>
>> It seems hard to imagine that 10 minute estimate for changing a blade
>> wouldn't be about 8-1/2 minutes long, but maybe he's got some really
>> crappy contractor saw w/ no clearance or something, I don't know...
>>
>> --
>
>Well, it's probably somewhere around (3, 15] minutes to change the blade.
>It's a long weaving walk (too much junk) to the back of the garage where
>the tools are stored.
Doesn't take me ten seconds to lay my hands on the tools: I built a set of
shelves under the extension table of my cabinet saw, and the blade wrenches
are on the top shelf.
Puckdropper wrote:
> dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> "Puckdropper" wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> 40T Irwin Marathon blade (new).
>>> Switch to a 24T for rips.
>> ..
>> And make sure it's a rip grind not combination...
>>
>> --
>
> I'll give that a try some time. Most my cuts are rips (or plywood), but
> since changing the blade on the saw is a 10 minute task instead of an hour,
> using a specific blade is something I'd want to do!
With a WWII, I don't bother with a rip blade unless the stock is thicker
than 7/8" , or so.
When it is, I use a 20T Freud Industrial rip. I can't feed the stock
fast enough to bog the saw!
dpb wrote:
> OP was resawing 2x4 material so it would qualify easily.
>
> It seems hard to imagine that 10 minute estimate for changing a blade
> wouldn't be about 8-1/2 minutes long, but maybe he's got some really
> crappy contractor saw w/ no clearance or something, I don't know...
10 minutes _is_ a looooong blade change...
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> 2x4s can be resawn in to 1x4s on the table saw, but it's not a quick task.
> I took 5 passes through each 2x4 to separate them. When it's time to
> separate the two pieces, the blade should protrude quite a ways (around
> 5/8"-1") beyond the point of seperation to make sure there's not a little
> nub holding the two pieces together.
Are you saying that you took five passes for each 1x4? Geeze, I hope not.
I'd rip that in one pass on my Craftsman Model 100.
>
> Oh, and don't face west when you're working outside in the evening...
>
Ya don't tug on Superman's cape
Ya don't piss in the wind
Ya don't pull the mask off the old Lone Ranger
And...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Sep 16, 8:44=A0pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
> 2x4s can be resawn in to 1x4s on the table saw, but it's not a quick task=
. =A0
> I took 5 passes through each 2x4 to separate them. =A0When it's time to
> separate the two pieces, the blade should protrude quite a ways (around
> 5/8"-1") beyond the point of seperation to make sure there's not a little
> nub holding the two pieces together.
on my saw that can be done in a single pass. you need a bigger saw....
Puckdropper wrote:
...
> 2x4s can be resawn in to 1x4s on the table saw, but it's not a quick task.
> I took 5 passes through each 2x4 to separate them.
Why is that? 8" or smaller blade or simply too under-powered a saw of
jut conservative approach?
Can't imagine why it would ever take more than 2, one from each side.
What were you using for a blade--for that kind of work a decent-quality
rip blade would be well worth the expense. The
quality/sharpness/suitability-to-task of the blade is even more
important when there's little or no spare power to make up for the
blade's shortcomings.
Alignment being dead-on would undoubtedly help as well if it isn't quite...
--
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Puckdropper" wrote:
>
>
>> Most my cuts are rips (or plywood), but
>> since changing the blade on the saw is a 10 minute task instead of
>> an hour,
>> using a specific blade is something I'd want to do!
>
> Plywood = 80T
And combination or if not just construction ply, specialty blade, not
rip... :)
--
B A R R Y wrote:
> Puckdropper wrote:
>> dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>>> "Puckdropper" wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> 40T Irwin Marathon blade (new).
>>>> Switch to a 24T for rips.
>>> ..
>>> And make sure it's a rip grind not combination...
>>>
>>> --
>>
>> I'll give that a try some time. Most my cuts are rips (or plywood),
>> but since changing the blade on the saw is a 10 minute task instead of
>> an hour, using a specific blade is something I'd want to do!
>
> With a WWII, I don't bother with a rip blade unless the stock is thicker
> than 7/8" , or so.
>
> When it is, I use a 20T Freud Industrial rip. I can't feed the stock
> fast enough to bog the saw!
OP was resawing 2x4 material so it would qualify easily.
It seems hard to imagine that 10 minute estimate for changing a blade
wouldn't be about 8-1/2 minutes long, but maybe he's got some really
crappy contractor saw w/ no clearance or something, I don't know...
--
Puckdropper wrote:
...
> Well, it's probably somewhere around (3, 15] minutes to change the blade.
> It's a long weaving walk (too much junk) to the back of the garage where
> the tools are stored.
What tool(s) required other than the arbor nut wrench? One of them
comes w/ the saw and (should, anyway) hang either close by or even on
the saw itself.
Takes at most a couple minutes I'd guess...
...
"Puckdropper" wrote:
> > It's a long weaving walk (too much junk) to the back of the garage
> > where
> the tools are stored.
A little project for you.
A table saw and a router req'd
Blank out 6 pcs, 12x12x3/8 nominal from a 2x4x3/8 plywood.
Using router, thru cut a 10-1/2 dia in 3 pcs.
Glue these pieces to uncut pieces to form 3 assemblies.
When dry, final cut to 11-1/2 square, then knock off corners @ 45,
Drill hanging hole in one corner, and thru hole in center for
1/4-20x3/4 flat head bolt, fender washer and wing nut.
Apply some shellac,
You now have 10" saw blade protectors that can be manhandled and still
protect blade.
Have fun.
Lew
On Thu, 18 Sep 2008 20:41:44 -0400, B A R R Y <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>10 minutes _is_ a looooong blade change...
Objectively, I'm sure you're right. I've never timed it and would
probably be surprised at how little actual clock time is needed to
exchange blades. But, subjectively, when I'm all primed to make the
next cut, it sure seems to take forever.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
Puckdropper wrote:
>
> Well, it's probably somewhere around (3, 15] minutes to change the blade.
> It's a long weaving walk (too much junk) to the back of the garage where
> the tools are stored.
>
> Annoucing the rec.woodworking blade changing contest! How fast can you
> safely change the blade on your table saw? Simply time yourself changing
> the blade and post the results here. One test cut is required, as well as
> starting with the new blade and tools OFF the saw when time starts.
>
Are you aware that lots of us equip our stationary tools with the
commonly used tools as a kit? I've purchased hex wrenches, box
wrenches, sockets, etc... for each tool that needs them on a regular
basis. Cheapies work great, no need for Snap-on!
dpb wrote:
> Puckdropper wrote:
> ....
>> Well, it's probably somewhere around (3, 15] minutes to change the
>> blade. It's a long weaving walk (too much junk) to the back of the
>> garage where the tools are stored.
>
> What tool(s) required other than the arbor nut wrench? One of them
> comes w/ the saw and (should, anyway) hang either close by or even on
> the saw itself.
With my TS, I have the arbor shaft wrench, the arbor nut wrench, a hex
driver that matches my Incra miter gauge screws, a hex wrench for the
inserts, and of course the inserts and blades. I have several inserts,
for different kerfs and with and without built-in splitters.
As another example, my BS has hex wrenches, a wrench for the tension
nuts, screw drivers, a blade back stone, etc... Same for the jointer,
the drum sander, the mortiser...
These are stored at the tool.
This can often be done for only a few bucks per stationary tool using
cheap or garage sale tools.